It's not an exact a Kephart design, but you could try the Firecraft FC4. You get the 4" blade, and it has a rounded spine with a ferro notch. You can strike a ferro, but you still have plenty of push surface on the spine that won't kill your thumb.
I felt the same about the handle but after using it for about a year I really like it, I have not had a issue with hot spots even with prolonged use. I also have a LT Right knife that has a similar handle and I like it a lot the difference is the LT Right is thicker and definitely a better fit for my xl hands. Great video and thanks for sharing. 😃
I don’t like the supposedly plastic liner in the Becker Kephart sheath. I think if Condor can make a great leather sheath for their Kephart, so can Becker. In fact, the Becker Kephart reminds me mostly on the Condor one, except better w/o the great sheath
Petar, carbon steel that touches leather will rust very quick due to moisture content . Dry leather absorbs moisture like a sponge. To eliminate this Becker created a plastic liner so air could flow around the knife, thus, limiting the rust factor by nearly 85 per cent or better. The leather sheath is made of premium leather and there is a method that can be used to pull out the liner if need be. The leather can be shrunk by soaking in water and allowing it to completely dry in the open air with sunlight. This may take several days to dry out, depending on the nature of leather used. When the leather is almost completely dry with only a hint of moisture, I would put the knife into the sheath, press the sheath around and against the knife and allow it to sun dry for a couple more days. After I know the leather is completely dry and the knife is well held. I would move on to the final step, if it still needs tightening, I would only moisten up the areas that need further shrinking and let dry with knife outside of case. The final procedure would be to use waterproofing, like a light amount of mink oil or NikWax or other waterproofing wax compound and buff it in to the surface. I would only do this final step making certain that the sheath is completely dry and hard as it is going to get. Make certain the plasti c liner is pulled out before attempting these procedures. The liner is usually velcroed in and would require something thin to release the velcro. Some times bacon strips ars packed in vacuumed packages that have a thin sheet of plastic behind the bacon slices. Other vacuumed and packaged products use plaxtic sheets. Sometimes new shirts have thin plaxtic sheets instead of cardboard. There are very thin plastic sheets used for food cutting and preparatio that can be used. Trace an outline of the knife on the sheet, cut it out. Once cut out, place the sheets knife point between the leather and the plastic liner and push down until the velcro on the back releases, if insert does not come out, make another traced k ife pattern out of the same plastin and insert it between the leather and plastic as I did before, pushing all the way down and breakung tbe velcro seal. The insert should now be reafy to pull out. Make certain the plastic insert is pulled free from the sheath before shrinking the leather, as I do. The insert can always be reinserted by reversing these pull out techniques. I make sheaths and know what moisture does to carbon steel. Rust occurs quicker on 1075 than it does on 1095 and plain 1095 rusts quicker than 1095 Cro-van steel. I hope this helps you and you may want to reconsider leather to knife contact. It costs extra for a manufacturer to put an insert in a leather sheath and for nicer knives, it is meant to protect them. Cheap quality knives use inserts to protect the inferior sheath material form tearing apart quickly., without concern for the knife, also made with cheap material. Becker did the right thing with plastic inserts for high carbon 1095 CroVan steel. I wish you much luck ! Dobre Djien !
I love the heat treat Becker uses on their 1095 cro-van...not crazy about their edge geometry, but with a slight adjustment to the edge profile...WOW! a huge difference! A tough and long wearing steel for sure! What slowed down the esee through the summer sausage was its sabre grind...i think the esee came with a better edge geometry and that why it slipped so easily through the skin of the tomato...atb...woods
Great review. Really like both of these knives but tend to grab the PR4. Just picked up an Ontario Blackbird SK4 though. It may pick up some of the use. I may do a video showing it next to these two for a comparison.
Bought the PR4 after my Mora Garberg and i love it. Indeed the handles looks awesome but for comfort maybe a broomstick handle would have been better i think. My opinion is the same the Becker looks authentic but its to large for me. Perfect review and clear thank u sir.
Jack Russel It wouldn’t surprise me if they do since the original was sold in both sizes. If they have any plans on doing so they probably needed to test the market with one model first.
I think the fact that you had to sharpen the Becker out of the box is a big difference and Gives the edge to the Esee. The coating on the blade will also help with rust in the Deep South where I live. I love the BK 62 but I think I have to give it to Esee PR 4. Just my input. Thanks
Love Esee and Becker/Ka-bar! 👍 I don't own either of these Kephart style knives, but there’s always room for “just one more knife.” 😆 I love Kephart inspired designs-simple and they just work well! 👍 Probably the closest Kephart-ish I own and use is the LT Wright Genesis. Love that knife! 👍 It’s not a traditional Kephart knife, but I’m pretty darn sure Kephart was the influence behind the design.
Well, since there's always room for one more, I think you might really like the PR4. My favorite bushcraft knife, with handles from the Knife connection . L.T. Wright does have some very nice knives.
The extra inch blade cames to play if you every have to use the knife as weapon. All my fixed blades are between 4 and five . Perfect length for a do it all knife. That is reason these knives were a favorite of these famous woodsmen . All just remember all knives at time were stone sharped. All five it gets to be a pain .
My new hobby may now be modifying old work knives into kepharts. I found an old full flat grind to make into a small knife like those you are showing. Just need to find quality rivets or screws for knife handles. A tool to cut/ shape blades seems to be a necessity. Belt sander also!
Made 2. One a little rough blade, but antique high carbon blades are premium to use out of doors. Even blackberry vines submit to my kephart blades! Strikes a rod like a sparkler on the 4th of july! Butchers chickens too. Opens paint cans great! Love my kepharts for EDC! Legal, safe and sane!!!
I own both of these, in addition to a few other kephart inspired knives. Neither of these is my favorite, but I do prefer the Esee in general. While FFG knives are great in the woods, and easy to sharpen, I personally prefer a saber grind. Also, Aesthetically the Esse is a better looking knife. This matters to me. I don't subscribe to the whole idea that a "real" bushcraft knife should be plain, simple, and ugly. In addition to a knife performing the way I want it to, looking at it has to bring me joy, the Esee does, the Becker doesn't. Knives are very personal. Just because Kephart preferred this shape, this handle, and a FFG, doesn't mean it's the "best" knife for the job, or that other configurations won't work. Kephart, Kochanski, Canterbury, and Mears, arguably the most well-known and recognized experts in bushcraft and woodlore, each prefer a different type of knife. The two people I learned most of my outdoors stuff from, my uncle and my step-father, generally preferred Buck knives, and did everything that needed to be done, well, with those knives (usually a 119, but sometimes others).
My Dad was also a huge fan of Buck. Found Esee on my own over time and really like the brand, and of course the warranty. Thank You for sharing, I appreciate it!
well from other youtuber he said the Kepheart is not a Full flat grind this is a major detail most have missed ..Its a full convex fromspine edge tear drop fatter in the middle helps with splitting and carving wood. with that being said it spiked my interest more to the point i want one ...therefore Bark river is the only way to go then the Becker.
All knives are heat treated and tempered by heat to exact temperatures to achieve their hardness. I’d be very careful “poking around in the fire” with any knife, as there’s a good chance you’ll ruin the temper near the edge. Lowering the hardness and drastically reducing edge retention
If Becker could have made a second version 1 inch smaller that would have been a hit. I ordered the Becker. I have a Esee 4 & 6 but I have wanted something in between with an uncoated blade, nothing fancy.
Just saw your video and I just wanted to say that I have owned the PR4 for a year and a half now and the handle is not posing an issue for me. I too lament about the rather thin handle and was worried it will produce hot spots when doing tasks like push cuts and so on. Not an issue at all for me. I still wished the handle could be a little thicker, or slightly rounder, but I am fine with what it is. Brought the PR4 to a camping trip in the tropical rainforest of western peninsula Malaysia and it excels tremendously. I brought a second knife there just in case but never used it at all during the trip. I am so hooked on the PR4. I had thought of getting the Becker but the 5” blade length was what puts me off. So after watching your video I don’t feel I need the Becker, unless they put out another one with a 4” blade length.
I absolutely love my PR4! I have a video where i put G10 handles on it and they are amazing! It is called Esee PR4 Handle Upgrade. I think you will like it. Thank you for watching.
Ochoco Bushcraft Oh yes. I know there is the handle upgrade available from The Knife Connection. That is where I purchased the PR4 from, but I love the mountain texturing on the PR4 which I think makes the whole knife look so cool, and so I decided to stick with the original. Would be great if I could get liners for it though.
I haven't ever used the Trekker. But I can say that if you decide to go with the PR 4, you won't be dissapointed. It is a knife that feels really good in the hand. As soon as you hold it, you can just tell that it wants to go to work. Thank you for watching!
I consider both of these and several other "Kephart" type knives. After much research I went with an Ontario Black Bird SK-5 in 154CM. It came shaving sharp. Unfortunately I haven't had any opportunity to do much with it yet.
I have the SK5, and I'm not particularly fond of it. The handle is a nice material but uncomfortable in actual use. For camp use, I also find the extra 1/2" on it over the PR4 to be unnecessary. Lastly, the steel is great but when it needs sharpening you can't do it in the field; the heat treat Esee puts on the PR4 is superb, and mostly only needs a few swipes on the strop to bring the edge back enough for more use. i also found typical Ontario QC evidence: Some come finished great, mine didn't. The components that make the knife are good quality and Blackbird is the sum of it's parts. ...but the finished product of the PR4 is more than the sum of it's parts. The Blackbird is a great knife, very capable. It's just not as robust IMO as the PR4.
Personally for me 4” is just a bit too short I prefer 4.5 to 5” so I would prefer the BK. I am making a Kephart with a 4.5” blade out of an Old Hickory butcher knife.
Yeah i think that knife is too long. I have bk16, tops bob (way overbuilt), cold steel drop forged hunter, bps hk1 (best at Bushcraft, mora companion (2nd best bushcrafter) joker montes 2, joker corzo, rat 3, and bk 19. The one that hits the best for utilty. For a balance of bushcraft, food prep, batoning kindling, being light, tactical, skinning, feather sticking is the bk19. As a mention. EVERYONE should have a mora companion as for 25 bux you get a great bushcrafter that weighs next to nothing to complement your companion blade. The sharpest blades out of the box are joker and bps. If you like leather look at the joker montes 2 and corzo for 50 bux. The best utility sheaths are the bk 19 and cold steel drop forged hunter ( a bit overbuilt but simple with 52100 steel) i saw a guy baton chop through thick wood with it and it was taking big chunks. Those two sheaths have many lashing points and i think ambidextrous. Still, I think Becker knives should come with g10 or micarta. My favorite one kinda lacks the cool factor a tad
I'm betting the joker trampero will out slice and out notch both of them. It's the joker kephart. It's stainless steel. Still, there's something to be said about the sturdiness of esee 1095 and the cool look. Trampero has better ergos than both of them. 81 bux on Amazon. Micarta or wood handles and nice leather dangler sheath
This will probably be the last new knife I test for a while. My budget is presently stretched thin. Thankfully I have some manufacturers sending me a few new items to test out.
If the knife does not have a flat grind it is not a Kephart knife. It is just Kephart inspired. Also, it needs to have pinned scales. I have a BK7 that I like. I purchased a BK62, but sent it back because I did not like it.
Just sub to ch Thing is once you put a edge after factory it’s done before it began. Knives usually get a more keen edge and stronger as you come up. So for the bk to not be performing well this could be from lack of edge skill I have several ESSE knives and only a couple Bk’s I like your comparison and the biggest thing about the kephart is its drop to center point that is my favorite to use
Why is the price (240€) of the Becker so high? It‘s a simple back to the roots knife with no 90• spine, arrived doll, slipper handle, blade too long…hhmmm🤨the Kephart was a poor man’s knife, but well Beckhart is not Kephart… I go with the ESEE🫡
