Thank you so much for this video!!! I'm doing my windows - the people that put the windows in really did a terrible job with cleaning off the glazing. You can see it on both sides of the windows. I have a fixed upper rounded window that I don't feel confident to get out of the molding - but, just tackling these lower ones is very satisfying - and definitely a learning experience!!!
Just finished a 12 lite window from at least the early 50's and everything worked out perfect thank you for the tips. Even the magic powder - Brilliant!!!! **** Now if I could buy all the little gadgets.
feathering all edges with sandpaper lends more strength to the finished sash,so it can take a lot of kid slams,also round corners ship off a bit at all 4 corners with the glass cutter square 1.8th thick slot right above the cutter wheel,,,,bedding the glass also insulates against outside noise heat wet,and cold temps
Joe homeowner needs your advice please: I have 3 panes of wavy glass left in my 120 year old double hungs that I am currently rehabing. They all have deep scratches, generally around the edges. Do I go ahead and replace the glass with new, non wavy glass? Do you know of a way polish out the scratches? Thank you for all of your informative videos!
There's really no practical way to polish out the scratches. That said, wavy glass is a subjective subject. I wouldn't just Willy nilly replace it, especially with something as lifeless and cold as modern glass. Modern glass performs, but it does so without soul. To me that means something. Now if the wavy is missing, then whatever glass is fine for me.
Awesome video Steve. Between this and your Israel-in-action commentary video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4p1YZ10_WBk.html - you've cleared up all my questions about bedding. (Also given me an excuse to buy a new tool - a glazier's hammer!) Your passion for craftsmanship and sharing your knowledge with others is true gift. You've given me the confidence to take on the windows in my home. Thanks!
I am having a similar problem with my Sarco Type M Multi-Glaze. No matter how much I knead, it doesn't seem to flow and adhere to the wood as yours does. I purchased online about a month ago and I wonder if it is a little dry. It did have a bit of a scum on top when I opened it. Can I add a few drops of linseed oil to a handful as I knead it before loading it to the bedding or the glazing rabbit.
I’m be of the first things I do with a new bucket of Sarco type M is dump entire contents out onto a board and re-knead it. It’s made out natural materials and like natural peanut butter, the ingredients need to be “stirred up”. It’s at this point that, if it feels a little dry, I’ll add some boiled linseed oil. But that’s usually not necessary. But it’s certainly alright to do.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thanks for the quick reply, that makes perfect sense. Your videos are excellent, music and all. I am working with 6 and 8 pane casement windows in the kitchen of my Spanish Revival home built in 1923. These were caked with several coats of paint which I have stripped and stained on the inside and primed and primed and painted on the outside. I was able to save all the glass and used your methods to bed the glass and it was kind of hard to get the glazing to stick. I did get the all six panes bedded and cleaned up on my first one, but when I flipped it over to glaze the the other side, I just wasn't getting good adhesion and smooth finish, so I stopped. This evening I'll follow your instructions, knead the whole bucket and start anew. Once again thanks for your excellent videos. Its great to watch someone who knows what they're doing and explains it so well, super helpful.
The adhesion and a smooth finish could be the way you are holding your knife. A lot of people hold it at too sharp an angle. Think of how you’d spread peanut butter or cake frosting. You get your tool down low with as little an angle as possible. If you turn the knife on edge you scrape all the peanut butter off. But if you angle it real low, it changes the way it spreads and you’ll get better results. There might be something about that in this video if you haven’t seen it yet. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HLIT_kyGq8Y.html
Is there a reason that you do not glaze the meeting rail side the same as the others? It looks like you just fill in the void between the glass and rail and not a full angle bead.
Yes, the glass slides up into a slot instead. So there is no glazing rabbet on that particular part of the sash. This is so that the meeting rail has full contact along the full width of the rail. If you were to glaze that part like the other parts, you’d see the glazing putty from the inside of the sash.
I am interested in your diamond glazing point driver because I have found the GIANT triangular points you get nowadays are useless! Do you know the maker of your driver? Does it shoot different sizes of points? Do you use different size points or stick with one size? Thank you for all of your expert knowledge sharing and detailed videos!
Glad the videos are helping. The point drivers are available new for about $200 or more. You can find them on eBay too and sometimes you can find a deal there, like $45 or something. I’ve found several through the years. The ones you want shoot the little diamond points ♦️. The small ones are the ones you want to use and those are called size 1. So you want a gun that shoots the little ones, size one.
The diamonds and the fletcher style aren’t exclusive to one another. Fletcher drivers shoot a universal size 1 point, size 2 and a size 5, which I think is a triangle.
It’s the dry powder drywall compound at the home stores. Sometimes it’s called 20 minute mud or 45 minute. The set up time is irrelevant. It’s the powder you want. It’s a blend of calcium carbonate and plaster of Paris.
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thank you. I just glazed the first 4 of eight large panes, in situ, with Sarco Type M. I dusted them with 20 minute drywall powder and BAM, they're ready to paint. They look great! Could not have done it without your videos.
That’s great to hear. Remember that the Sarco putty needs a couple of days to skin over before you paint it, and then it’s straight to paint. No primer or anything.
@@WoodWindowMakeover I'm painting with latex paint. Can I paint the new glazing with latex paint or do I need to prime the Sarco type M first? Can the new glazing handle rain (I dusted with 20 minute drywall dust)? It's supposed to rain tomorrow. I'm afraid its going to wreck my new putty as I haven't painted yet.
Rain might add a day or two to the skinning process. You can go straight to paint, no need to prime, even with latex. One thing to note though, and I don’t think the rain will ruin your glazing, but you might want to gently wipe your glazing clean after the rain in case the water washed any mold or fungal spores down onto the putty. You wouldn’t want to seal any spores under the paint.
Help. Losing faith! I've stripped, restored, followed all your tips to get an 18th C window ready for setting, glazing and painting. Good news is it all went well and was fun in a way! Here's where it all goes wrong. The Sarco glaze. When I pull it pull. I can't get it a, to really stick to the cleaned surfaces unless I press it in and when I do (i just gave up using gloves and pressed it in with a putty knife and my fingers), then, b., when I go to pull the line -- it just comes with or makes a mess. I mean -- I've got it, but it sure doesn't look like it's clean or like it will last long. Setting it in the bed, I've mastered. You can really see why Sarco works better...i've just used a lot, pushed it in and cleaned it up. Great. But on the Glazing itself? just a mess. It's about 57 degrees (i'm working outside..) I've tried water -- even spit on the glass -- kneading? But I'm holding out for the master to tell me or show me how to get the Sarco to smooth out.... lest all this time be wasted......
