Thanks for watching. The connector is called a Phidget 1048_2 Temperature Sensor with 4-Inputs and a usb connector. You can find this phidget here www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&catid=14&pcid=12&prodid=1222 . You will also need to get the data cable which you can find on that site. The probes found below can be purchased on Amazon and I have provided the affiliate links to those probes. I may receive a fee if you buy those using that amazon link. It doesn't cost you anything extra but it does support this channel. Long K type probe - 2 mm thick thermocouple that is 300 mm long with a nice 5 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3zBNFKr Short K type probe - 2 mm thick and 100 mm long. It has a 6 foot long wire braided cord with a fork type connectors amzn.to/3PEh7Fn
Hello all, I have owned a 1600 Plus for about 7 years now and there's been quite a learning curve with this particular roaster. By the way, thank you so much for this channel. It's been most helpful in helping me refine my roasting game! Nevertheless, instead of the 8 oz setting for roast time I use the 1 lb setting with 8 oz green beans because the fan doesn't kick on until 10 minutes and 25 seconds. So you're not having to deal with a dip in roast temperature. Usually adding time at the beginning of the roast as well can prolong the exhaust fan from engaging. Furthermore, unfortunately, the 1600 plus lacks the ability to have artisan plugged into it, which I believe is a major flaw of the roaster. However, as you mentioned in your video, the temperatures don't have to be correct. Your ears, eyes and nose are telling you a different story. So in that respect, the 1600 plus does teach us the other aspect of roasting which is the environmental part of it.
Great tip Martin. I've used the 1 lb setting before and you are right, the afterburner turns on later and that would be helpful. Ironically, by the time i'm getting close to dry i usually want to slow my roast down and the fan actually can help do that, albeit a little too much. I think you are right, the Behmor is a great roaster to help teach us to rely on our senses along with the Behmor temperature display to make heat management decisions for our roast. Thanks for sharing and for watching my video!
I agree with Martin in using the 1-lb setting. For a while, I used the 1/2-lb setting but finally realized the effect the afterburner and its fan were having on my overall roast control. I have the 2000 AB+, but as far as I can tell for both the 1600 and 2000, the only differences in using the different "pound" settings are the maximum roast time, and when the afterburner/fan turn on. I have seen where some Behmor folks have actually installed a switch to manually control the afterburner's fan.
Thanks for sharing you guys. I think the idea to press the C button (Paul Moer's suggestion in the comments of this video) to control the fan is fascinating. Have you guys tried that?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab No, I have not tried using the C button as a means to control the afterburner. However, I have been thinking about this for a while. Instead of looking at the afterburner as a problem, we should look at it as a solution. What I mean by this is if we use less green beans on a 1 lb setting with a maximum time of 21 minutes, 30 seconds. I think whatever that magic number is 4 oz to 7 oz as a way to utilize the drop in roast temperature towards the end of the first crack in order to achieve what we're looking for, thus controlling the entire process from Browning to development phases. Perhaps this is the way?
exactly. I've been trying to hit my dry end right at 5 minutes on the Behmor so when the fan kicks on and my temps go down a bit, it will help my roast slow down, setting me up for a good descent towards first crack event time. So you are right, finding the weight is a great way to manage that BUT that weight will need to be adjusted based on density I think.... Thanks for sharing!
Another great video! This is the first time I've been able to compare Behmor's A and B temperatures with something else. I read that 1C occurs at a bean temperature of 385°F. I typically get 1C at or around "A" = 335°F. Curiously, your ET exceeded 385°F at approximately 2 minutes. This suggests that the exhaust temperature shown here must also include excess heat that has risen and does not represent the air temperature at or around the bean itself. At 7 minutes the BT does reach 385°F. At 8:18 minutes I see the BT still around 388°F, and the "B" temperature is 311°F while the "A" temperature is 207°F, at which time Mike identified 1C. (I have never had 1C at such a low A temperature... another curiousity. I always suspected that the actual bean temperature was significantly higher than either the "A" or "B" temperatures on the Behmor so early on I was forced to work with those temperatures as I worked out my profile. (I heard you say I make great coffee.... let it be known that Mike hasn't actually tasted my coffee.... he could beg to change his mind should he actually taste it ;) ). The bottom line is that I no longer worry about what others say about getting the "B" temperature up as high as possible. As Mike as shown, the actual bean temperature is much higher than either the "A" or "B" temperatures. This is also more evidence that the beans absorb infrared light energy from the ceramic heaters rather than kinetic energy of flowing gases in a gas roaster. The beans have to be in "line of sight" of the ceramic heater! If you put too many beans in the drum, some beans may not receive as much light energy if they happen to keep getting buried by other beans. Now it makes even more sense when Behmor says to limit dark roasts to 1/2 pound lots.
Thanks for your comments Larry. One important response I would like you to consider is how event temperatures will not be fixed, rather a range. You mentioned first crack occurring at 386. This will be different if you have a faster moving roast, more or less weight, different type of coffee beans and especially a different type of coffee roasting device. If you are roasting the same profile, with the same coffee weight, roasting the same coffee, you can use temperatures to predict events like dry and first crack or even drop. There is the "light factor" that does seem to influence bean roasting so the whole idea of increasing drum speed or even the angle of the Behmor so more coffee bean surface is exposed to the light will most likely speed up the roasting process. yes, lighter loads means more light exposure to the beans.
Sorry for the late reply Larry, but I just got to your post. On the Behmor, I always thought the A temperature was the temperature of exhaust air, with heat coming from: 1) chamber air; 2) the afterburner; and 3) possible exothermic heat from first crack. Pressing the C button to control the afterburner (and its fan) is news to me - I'll have to check it out. Sure wished I'd known that a year ago! I wonder if that feature is limited to the 1600, or if the 2000AB also has it.
@@luigicollins3954 Yes, the A temperature measures exhaust air. This air contains air exhausted from the oven chamber, heat that is produced by the exothermic process, and the afterburner as well. If you have ever had to open your Behmor you will see that the exhaust venting travels along a vent just above the oven chamber to the right hand side. At this end there is a fan, where the temperature of the exhaust air is measured. At this point, some exhaust air is vented out the back, and some is recycled back to the oven. This is the first time I've heard about the C button controlling the afterburner. I always thought it simply added time to the roast only. I'll have to check it out.
Wow Mike, nice work on this video! This video is an engineer's dream in researching and gaining insight into temperatures in the Behmor. And thank you for actually poking holes into your vintage 1600 to read the temperatures. Now that's dedication! 🙂 What might be nice to determine and see is exactly where the existing temperature sensors are located in the Behmor, and what temperatures they are actually measuring. I'm pretty sure the "B" sensor is on the right-hand wall of the roasting "chamber", almost at the back wall. I understand that three small screws on that side actually go into the sensor's body on the other side of the metal. I have no idea where the "A" sensor is located. What I tried to do when roasting with the Behmor was to compare data from all of the roasts I thought came out well, to see what they maybe all had in common. That also worked on bad roasts, where I tried to see what they may have had in common. But it seems what some others here do, and what I try to do is: find out what works, and if you feel like it, try to determine why. 🙂
Hi Lou, Thanks for your comments. I think both sensors are near each other in the upper right corner. If you look at a behmor manual, they show a pic that instructs to keep those sensors clean. You are right, actually comparing roasts and the notes from those roasts can help improve our roasts! Glad you liked my video!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab When I had mine apart to replace the afterburner, yes, they're both in the upper right hand corner. BUT, the exhaust one is located in the exhaust channel, not in the main oven. The other one does measure the oven temperature, but at the side wall.
I tried something different with regards to preheating today, and I think it will improve the quality of roasting on the Behmor. Once you get to the preheat temperature you wish, go about 10° over and then press the "cool" button and let it run like that for about a minute. What this does is turn on the fan and afterburner so that the exhaust chamber is also preheated, and circulates the hot air inside the oven. There is a reason they made "convection ovens", that use a fan to circulate the air to get more even heating. As a result, when I started the actual roast, by the time it turned on the fan my oven temperature did not drop. The ROR did slow, but it did continue rising. I'm not sure how this will work for those who like to preheat up to 320°F though. I do think the beans roast at a higher temperature if you preheat this way. Recall how MIke's oven temperatures were much higher when measured directly above the beans instead of off the side where the Behmor sensor is.
Thanks for sharing Larry. That extra 10 degrees will help because you will loose that when opening the door and inserting the. Drum. Doesn’t the cool button draw in cool air from outside the roaster at the same time it exhausted the hot air?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I've done this a few more times now. There are a couple of things happening here. Yes, some cool air is drawn in, but pressing "cool" also turns on the afterburner, and the fan evens out the hot and cold spots in the oven. I struggle with my Behmor not turning on if the temperature is above 240°F. This is something some may wish to play with, that's all.
Thanks for a great video. I usually roast 1 pound on my Behmor 1600, original model. My roast completes in approximately 11-13 minutes depending on coffee. That is with no pre-heat. My electrical outlet is fed with number 10 awg, which I think keeps the voltage drop to a minimum. A half pound completes in 8-9 minutes. Truly a real good roaster and Behmor support is great. I was thing of upgrading it to a plus but it working so good I don’t want to mess with it. Also it doesn’t have the unattended auto cooldown.
Hi Jim, yea, your unit seems more powerful than mine. The "Plus" upgrade really does change the way you can roast with the Behmor but I understand. If you're happy with your roaster and the coffee you roast, leave well enough alone.
Wow, I have the original Behmor as well but my roasts take much longer than you. I preheat 90 sec as recommended but my roasts start to finish are closer to 30 minutes.
@@73alfayellow Voltage is very important with this roaster. That’s why you’ll see various roast times. My brother used my Behmor at his house for years and could never roast a full pound. I took the same unit and at my house I can roast a pound from about 11 minutes to about 18 minutes depending on the type of beans I’m roasting. At my electrical outlet while roasting I have about 123 volts. My outlet is fed from my panel with #10 AWG wire. So I virtually have no voltage drop. If you check your voltage at the outlet your Behmor is plugged into when your roasting you’ll probably find it a little low. The lower the voltage the less heat they develop and the roast times go up. My brother didn’t believe that I was roasting a full pound on that machine til he saw it for himself. Bottom line if your coffee’s good what’s a couple more minutes. It’s all about the taste. Happy roasting.
@@73alfayellow I have the original Behmor and I don’t think it’s capable of reading the temperature. If you check your voltage, do it while the roaster is on and the heating elements are on.
Thanks for videos, watched a couple so far and just ordered a Behmor 2000 AB plus. I've only used a air popcorn machine and electric pan style roaster with little luck (all light tasting coffees, or burnt). Hopefully with your videos I have better luck. Variety of coffees from samplers to kona and geisha, with smokin being best so far.. Thanks again.
That is exciting Christopher. Congrats on the new Behmor. There is a learning curve and like any roaster, the Behmor has it's strengths and weaknesses. I've got a new video coming out in the next week or so roasting the last of my Papau New Guinea coffee on my Behmor.. Thanks for sharing and for watching!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Thanks for reply, can't wait for video. Just received unit and one of the free coffees is the same, Papau New Guinea Carpenter Estate. Cool..
I had my first bean roasting experience was using a cast iron skillet outside heated by a BioLite stove and I managed to crack my cast iron skillet and burned the coffee beans. I then graduated to using a popcorn popper with a lot better results. The next roaster was Sweet Maria's Popper with even better results until the Popper stopped working. I then tried my luck with and old BreadMan bread machine on the dough cycle heated by a heat gun, which worked but I need to do modify it if I go on using it to roast beans. This is also called a "Corretto Coffee Roaster". I am on a tight budget add would like to know your thoughts on purchasing a Gene Cafe rather than a Behmor. One of the main reasons I was thinking of the Gene Cafe is the ability to easily vent smoke outdoors and better visual on the beans roasting, however the Gene Cafe is about $200.00 dollars more than the Behmor. Love you video's and the community you have created.
Hi Conrad. That is quite the story. How on earth do you crack a cast iron skillet? Based on your experiences it sounds like you tend to favor darker roasted coffee. The FrankenRoast / Corretto Coffee Roaster is one that i have talked with people about in the past. They enjoy building and modifying their roasters. As you mentioned it is a pretty big cost savings. I think my biggest concern about these types of roasters as well as the Gene Cafe is there is very little control over the roast profile. I have talked with some FrankenRoast people who use a variable temp heat gun and are able to roast with different profiles, but many not adjusting, they are using a fixed temp and simply roasting to a color level. I believe they are missing out on better tasting coffee. With regards to the Gene Cafe, I have talked with many who are happy. They like the exhaust port to vent out the smoke. But some have reported that they would like to roast different profiles and find it difficult. The roaster tends to be pretty slow to roast the coffee, even as long as 15-20 minutes. I have never used one before so I have no personal experience. I would favor the Behmor over the Gene Cafe when considering a purchase BUT, if you are looking for a recommendation I would like to hear a little more about the type of coffee and your roast level preferences. What is your end goal for both the cup and your future in roasting coffee. The FreshRoast is a pretty nice roaster as well Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. Please answer my questions so I can offer a better answer.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab So happy to get your reply! I cracked my cast iron skillet by roasting outside (I'm sensitive to smoke) on a BioLite CampStove. The skillet turn red at the end of the roast and I incinerated the beans. I enjoy all types of roasts depending on the bean variety. I like to change up my method of brewing from week to week from Moka Pot, pour over, aeropress and espresso. I am not a fan of the French Press or a Stove Top Percolator I bought for campouts. I do remember as a child having coffee from a stove top glass percolator and the smelled great and tasted great, but maybe that was because I was young and new to drinking coffee or it was that particular glass percolator. My goal is to have about 400 to 500 grams of fresh roasted per week to be used with different brewing methods. Thank you for your assistance.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I have not decided on purchasing a roaster or building a Corretto Coffee Roaster. I would like to be able to hear, smell and monitor temperatures.
Thanks for such great info, I'm learning a lot and now thinking of purchasing the Kaleido Sniper M10 pro, works with Artisan does large batches and even roasts
Glad my videos have been helpful. I have seen the sniper and it looks pretty cool. That is on Amazon right? If you end up buying one, let me know your thoughts.
Yes, it can be used as a sample roaster. Many roasteries will have a standard roast they use when they get samples from their importer. They aren’t necessarily trying roast great coffee on the sample roaster. They want to see what the beans are capable of producing. To do this they don’t roast dark. They want to know about acidity and sweetness are trying to understand something about the character of the coffee. In its simplest form, they want to taste the origin and the character the bean has to offer. The challenge will be to find the right profile and use the same temps and charge weight.
Hello Frederick, Bean temp and exhaust temp probes/thermocouple are connected to a phidget. www.phidgets.com/?&prodid=1028 So the wires from your probes connect to the phidget and the phidget connects to your computer which has the artisan app
Very helpful! What is the max B temperature you have reached with your upgraded Behmor before the fan kicks in? Has the unit shutdown due to reaching too high a temperature? Have you experimented with the high drum speed after concluding the dry phase?
All great questions Stanley. The fan isn’t based on temperatures, rather time and the charge weight setting you select. If you select the 1/2 lb setting, the fan kicks on at 5 minutes and the you can start reading a temperatures increasing. If I go over about 327 the unit will error out (overheat) if before the fan kicks in. I can’t remember ever regaining enough momentum to push me back up to 327 after the fan kicks on. By the time I regain my heat I’m getting ready to drop the coffee. Drum speed is up to you. I’ve used low until dry and then go high for the remaining AND I have run high the entire time. You should experiment with yours and see.
When you say you enjoy a wrinkled bean or a medium, how do you measure the light, medium, and dark roasts? I have gotten 12.5-13% weightloss from a preheat of 230-240°F and a total roast time of 10:00. I is a 226g batch of Ethiopian. My goal is a light roast. There is a hint of the blueberry flavors and aroma, but it is quickly shutdown by a bitter/earthy flavor. I would love any tips or recommended videos for a nice light fruity coffee from the Behmore (I have the 2000AB). Thanks, love the videos and the community you are building!
Yep, the modeling/wrinkling on the bean means it hasn’t swelled, this represents a stage of development and tends to be on the lighter side. Roasting light on the behmor is interesting. The quartz light makes it. Halle going to get a shorter roast time and lighter color. That bitter note could be too much development on the outside of the bean. I think I talked about this in one of your previous posts. The butter note could also be related to your brewing and grinding method. Uneven grind size, over extraction, etc.. can influence taste. It might not be your roast.
Thanks for the advice on including the chaff tray during preheat. It makes total sense. Not sure why I haven't don't it before. I'm just starting to explore the manual mode on my behmor. I have been cautious about staying too long on P5 and it overheating, in practice how far can you take it? Consequently I've had longish roast times of >12:30 for 200g at a light / medium. Any advice? Thanks from the UK.
Glad the chaff tray tip was helpful! Watch this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jm5MsA8poJs.html and notice the timing of the fan turning on and the temp of 324 on the B temp. That is my target top temp I go to. Stay below that and you should be safe. Then the fan helps bring me down a little. You can see how I manage power and the end resulted 10 minute and 20 second total roast time. The middle phase was too fast by about 30 seconds more .
Your videos are great, thank you! I started roasting with a behmor and artisan. I modified my machine to get a bean temp probe into the drum. I am hitting the 50/30/20 ratios you recommend and watching/smelling the beans. I am still struggling to get a “A” level roast with the similar tasting notes that came with the beans. How do you “tune in” a roast profile? Could you do a video on that? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching. Have you seen my other behmor videos? They might help answer your question. Personally I don’t use the a temp. Others swear by it. The roasting phase ratios (event times) are more important to me if that makes any sense. Hit the phase percentages and the try working on your total roast times. Those two factors are going to influence your flavors.
on a manual roast of 8 oz beans, and full power (P5), i'm assuming (dangerous) that the heating progress - for the same elapsed time before the fan kicks in on the 8oz setting - would be identical between an 8oz setting and a 1# setting. would you agree? if so, i suggest you have more control over your roast by using the 1# setting in order to manually turn on the afterburner fan by pressing the C button whenever you want to (as in later than when it would come on with the 8oz setting). you can then press C again as many times as necessary to reset the remaining roast time to 3 minutes so it doesn't enter cool by itself. then when you are ready to cool, press the cool button. i've not tried the additional probes, and agree with you that they are not necessary once you get some experience with the built in ones and what their displayed numbers are. however, it was interesting indeed to see the reading differences based on your additional probes placement. i've not yet returned to using my behmor since completing 25 roasts now with my freshroast sr800, but one of these days i'll give it a spin again. i'm getting better results with my air roaster than the behmor, so there's not a lot of incentive.
Its funny you mention the P1 auto setting Paul. I mistakenly started a roast on that setting and around the 4 minute mark, when I had all of the momentum to do the job, the quartz light dimmed? I realized my error in the auto mode and concluded that setting will regulate the temp/power at various points in the roast? So you can turn on the afterburner/fan anytime by pressing the C button? Even 10 seconds after the roast begins? I've not tried that. Yea, i like that my probe placement did emulate a drum roaster profile somewhat but in the end after experiencing it once in that machine I think it really doesn't change the way I will roast with the Behmor. I did find the P4 setting very interesting when it leveled off the red line mid roast. That was useful information. Thanks for your comment and for watching Paul. Happy Roasting!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab yes, i think you can turn the fan on anytime by pressing the c button. to my knowledge, you can't turn it off thereafter tho, lol. yes, the P1 profile keeps power at max the longest, but even P1 eventually starts leveling off, whereas P5 in manual mode holds the max power indefinitely.
Paul, in my tests using P1 with a solid pre-warming, I found P1 Auto Mode backs off on power before the 5 minute mark. It ruined a roast I did a few weeks ago when I was experimenting with probe placements. It only got up to 288 and then started to level off. I will give the C button a try, that sounds really interesting!
that is funny.. Some have called it a glorified toaster oven but it is more that that. It offers the user a chance to experience "drum roasting" in a larger capacity than most home coffee roasters. So, it is a fancy oven that can roast some really good coffee. Thanks for watching Haekal
Thank you for the video. Timely, as I was about to order a couple of probes. Which probes did you get? The long one and the short one. What bit size did you drill the holes? I like this approach as it makes removal easy. Thanks for the tip on the infrared vs other heating types. Behmor could do a similar thing to make the A and B button temperatures be more in line with reality.
Hi Norm, I purchased a 100 mm and a 300 mm k type. Both are 2mm thick. I don't remember the bit size, sorry about that. I basically held the bit up to the probe and used one that was slightly bigger than the probe itself. Be sure to drill the holes on the left side of the roaster. The right side has some wires and other electrics.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Thanks for the reply. I just ordered two probes like yours, 1.6mm diameter. I am going to put the shorter probe underneath the drum and very close to the beans and out of visual from the infrared heaters. Since the probes are flexible, I hope to have a stable location for repeatability. Since Artisan allows a "calibration" for both ET and BT I'll get enough data to get the start of 1C around 386-390F for the BT. I've been using the Hottop 2K+ more than the Behmor recently as it is a pleasure to use. The direct connect to Artisan in the laptop and optional full control from the screen has increased my bean roasting knowledge immensely. Having said that, the Behmor still makes wonderful roasts in larger batch sizes. There is no substitute for smell, sight, and sound during a roast.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Good timing on your question. I returned the probes as I didn't want to drill into the roaster and thought I could be more accurate with locations. I bought two k-type probes with alligator clips. The ET clips on to a eyebolt inside the roaster near the rear top right. The BT I will try in the chaff tray securely under the drum. When I do a roast with it, I'll have a better idea of whether probes offer much help in improving the roast quality I already have after 15 years with a Behmor.
