My NX6000 just went into protect mode. Thank God I bought it from Sweetwater and it's still under warranty! It performed well for one and a half years for subwoofer duties, though. Four ohm load on each channel.
My Crown MacroTechs were awesome, and very high performance. Not so great if you have to haul them around, and a little tough to service if you ever need to. They also have fairly noisy cooling fans.
@@Barry-Watson well basically...I don't mind at all the noisy fans because basically I have a out door system....when turning on those amplifiers ,to me personally, I think that those fan noises mean" amplifier in high spirits and ready to rock your world 😅😅💯...I always wanted a crown macro tech 3600 tho ...but can't get my hands on any ... although they do need alot of voltage to play great...I don't mind.... because if given the right amount of voltage... just know u will be needing good speaker's 🥴🔥😅💯
Good information about the Behringer amps. I use several in my home theater and have had very good luck with them. I have swapped the fans in all of them with quieter computer fans and they are silent. I did not try to match cfm but I suspect that even though I play at reference in my home theater, the usage is moderate compared to live sound use. Behringer gets a lot of criticism for failures, but GSG Audio who do flat packs for subwoofers for home theater, sells Behringer amps and they have sold hundreds and say that warranty claims are under 1%. This was just recently so Behringer undoubtedly has fixed the diode issue. A couple of small nits in your video. You say that an outlet is capable of only 1800w or 2400w depending on the breaker and that an amp output can't exceed that for any length of time. That is not true because of the dynamic nature of music. Even highly compressed audio will have a crest factor of at least 6dB. Most music and movies are 18-20dB. A 6dB crest factor is a 4 to 1 peak to average power ratio. Power consumption follows the average because the peaks are supplied by capacitance in the amp. That means that a 20amp circuit is capable of supporting at about 9600 watts of music playback. If you look at the information Crown puts out about power consumption, you can see that they say it depends on the content. They specify power consumption at 1/8 power pink noise just at the onset of clipping, and 1/3 power at extreme clipping. www.crownaudio.com/en/site_elements/xti2-power-draw-thermal It is also worth noting that circuit breakers do not trip when exceeding rated capacity for a short duration. They follow what is called a time-current curve. They can exceed rated capacity by 10x for about 1 second and 3x for up to 10 seconds. The "D" in Class D amplification does not stand for "digital." It was literally the next letter in the alphabet to be used when naming amplification classes.
Great overview on this amp Barry, I really enjoyed it. No fluff just good content and experience , thank you sir. I'll definitely be coming back for more . Peace !
got one NUKE6000 that crashed during garanty time and been turned back repaired successfully by the manufacturer. And another 6000 - DSP version - never went down. sure it's not 6000 W, more between 3 and 4 kW, but anyway, great value for the money i used ; now the diod is new, so i feel safe ! For 50$ more, choose the DSP one !
I'm a subscriber from Jamaica. Just found your channel and like your honest reviews, in the future could you review perhaps Admark or Cvr amplifiers from China, these amplifiers seems to be dominating the scene lately
Thanks! I don't have one of those, have not used them. If one appeared on my doorstep, I'd happily measure and review it. From what I've seen, they're popular in some regions and users say they work well, at least for subwoofer duty. If I had a choice, and money no object, I'd still feel most comfortable knowing the gig won't have issues with Powersoft, Crown, QSC, Yamaha... PS - I've vacationed in Jamaica and had a totally fab time.
Nice video, you seemed to give a well balanced review of it. I am not a pro, just a hobbyist and have some hi power amps and first used one I bought surprised me by its weight. Almost 40 pounds so I can understand why your back does not want a rack full of these.
Glad it was helpful! For a band that has to move equipment often, the light weight and the power efficiency of digital amps is really compelling. When you have a rack full of amps, it's a major weight savings.
I want to get it already used from a buddy! But I am wondering if it could handle a pair of full range each channels. I open it and it’s just single mosfet bridged
Nice video Barry. Very good insights. I still do have a NU4-6000 somewhere around that has failed me too. It goes in protective mode (red rings) and will never come out. I suspect it's the same issue with the power supply. Do you mind stating the specs of the diode that usually fails?
That's a different issue than mine. In my case the unit would not turn on. I checked the power supply diodes with a volt/ohm meter and found a defective one. In one case I replaced it with the same part number, and I ordered a similar SMT diode, in the other case I just fit a general purpose diode that could handle the current into place, a 1N4005 I think. It's just what I happened to have handy. So far that's worked fine. I found a schematic for the NU6000, and it looks like the power supply in the 4 channel version is very similar. Those SMT circuit boards are pretty high density, the hardest part for me was just getting in there with the soldering iron and accessing those parts without burning anything else up. Some folks are really good at fixing micro-minature circuits, but I find it a bit challenging. I'd suspect the issue is most likely on the power supply board. I think you can find the whole power supply board as an assembly, and you could just do a board swap if you want to go the easy but more expensive route.
I was surprised. I had a inuke1000 with a pair of vs1220s. Sounded horrible. Upgraded to KM750 amp that had higher dampening. Difference was huge. So trust your ears.
yea you bought the vorst one in the series who only had 120watt 8ohms real watts so ofc i undestand you being disapointed here is correct wattage of that amp yea its cheep amp ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ibsvu1xownw.htmlsi=FLI7JPRP1HS0p_M1&t=178
I had the same as you a rack of crowns … wait 3 to 5 years your opinion will change , every single one of my inukes ended up in protect mode , these were all dsp and were set to a couple of db below full power clip (although class d doesn’t clip) 1.2k per channel at 8 ohms for the 6000 is great for the price
I've seen failures too, but I don't think it's a design problem, or a class-D problem, just an unfortunate QC issue with a parts supplier. So far I've had success repairing failed power supplies. You may also be able to replace the whole power supply board and restore those amps. But, I know it's frustrating when stuff fails.
Hi. I have the inuke 6000 dsp and i primarily bought them for use as a PA for a garage band. I bought it primarily because of the 6000 watt label and you have actually explained it well enough that i accepted the fact they will not pump out 6000 watts. However my dilemma is this: i was kind of expecting a big stadium sound as far as my vocals going through from a small xenyx mixer-amp-800watt peavey scorpion speaker. My 15 watt prs MT15 guitar amp is burying this inuke! I mean when i try to raise up the volume on the mixer to get my singing heard over a measly 15watt tube amp head through a small 12 inch v30 speaker the inuke6000 would clip. I have adjusted down the gain, but if i rely solely on the raising the volume its not loud enough as i want it to be. What am i doing wrong here? I think im missing something in the equation here. My setup is 🎤 - small xenyx mixer - inuke6000 dsp - 2002 model 800watt peavey scorpion speaker. Am i not getting loud vocals because of a small mixer and need a bigger, like those with "more channels" mixer? Or do i have to have a compression/limiter in between the inuke and the peavey speaker? So my goal is to actually just hear the loudest it can be in a 2 car garage to be on top so i can hear myself over our drummer and bassist, clean without it clipping then adjust my volume down because my vocals throuh this inuke is too loud. So far thats not happening. Help! It would be soooooo much appreciated! Btw im subscribed to your channel. TIA!
I watched Barry's reply video to see if he addressed this and would add that if you're running a Scorpion with no tweeter, you'll end up with an unintelligible mess. It's a woofer designed for guitar applications and while it can be used in a PA top (I have SP5s with Scorpions), it won't work well for this alone
Can you wire 1 Ohm on that 4 channel amp? I know that offical specs are 2 Ohms and 4 Ohms. What would happened if you wire 1 Ohm subwoofer? Probably is not good idea :D
A 1 ohm load is very severe, it's going to demand a large amount of current. I would consider wiring the speakers in such a way to provide a more reasonable load to the amplifier if possible.
Hi Barry! please Make a video about the crown I-Tech Amps I would like hear your opinion about these amps [I-t4000, I-T6000, I-T9000] I own this Amps and looks like to me, they are running hot all the time, even with out signal passing thru them, I've ben hear many confusing opinions about it. Thanks for your videos.
I don't have a lot of experience with that model, but they've always worked well for me, and I've never had a failure during a show . They are known for sometimes running a little but warm at lower power levels, and they have variable speed fans that can spin up even when the unit isn't pushed hard. I suspect Crown is aware of the thermal management concerns some folks have, so I'd contact Crown service and ask them about the behavior.
Ive owned QsC and Crown amps i was impress with these behringers its the new tech using sold state transistors making it light and powerful vice old style of amps heavy and expensive but … is it at 6000 yes when it peaks but RMS it is around 4000 watts which is still the best $$$$ u pay for wattage … the durability test i ran it 3 hours it wasnt overheating like the QSC amps so I'm giving it an A+ on performance and durability. A+ for the price , A+ its Weight …. F for misleading info on the output wattage - all they have to do is say 4000 watts RMS and people will buy it because its a good product , ive owned it for almost 2 years and have not failed … QSC are overpriced anyone who owns one knows it , that also is a marketing scheme..by sellersnof the product behringer entering the competition with new tech will bring those prices down
Thanks -- I've done plenty of shows where I've pounded on Crown and QSC amps, and they've been excellent. Maybe you pay a little extra for the brand and the reputation, but I don't think I'd say they're overpriced. Most of those amps I used were class AB/H designs and the parts cost for that kind of amp is just more expensive generally than a digital amp. It's just the nature of the beast. The higher-end QSC and Crown amps are really well made, and expensive parts make an expensive product. I wouldn't say the iNukes are superior, but they're definitely cost effective and perform well for band situations.
i have an xair18........... do you know if the inuke dsp features are replicated in the xair product?? if i Have an xair18, is it advantageous to have inuke with DSP or is it just redundant expense ?? or is it yes and no situation ............ the features are present in both, but appear to have a slightly different interface look and adjustment range. also eq and filtering at the amp level circuitry seems like it may have some advantages over mere digital signal control at the mixer...
Thanks, I appreciate the offer. I'm happy to offer advice, but I'm not really interested in doing bench repair of equipment, particularly equipment using smt technology where the components are so tiny. Most of the problems I've seen with these amplifiers are defective diodes in the power supply board, Replacement diodes are inexpensive and available from parts sellers such as DigiKey. The hard part about servicing these amplifiers is simply how small the components are and how tightly packed the circuit board is, and the lack of end user repair support from the manufacturer.
This is and old story, the good watts cost money, the bad watts cost less. And good watts are not alone, it is a couple with speaker impedance and voice coil inductance, sensibility, etc. Not so easy in audio world. But, i have and Inuke 6000dsp and a Parasound hca1500a (205wpc in 8ohm and 315wpc in 4ohm) and a pair of Yamaha CBR15, wich are very energy demanding, surprisly de old class AB Parasound move them very good, becouse i think it can provide a 60 amp peak of energy, with a 1KV amp toroidal transformer and a damping factor over 800 at 20hz... And, there is a lot off psicoacoustic effect in the audio experiencie , the capacity of give the energy of the music demand is critical for a power amp.
I’m new to PA amps. Do you have any recommendations for a reliable DJ amp? I have a set of 8ohm and a set of 4ohm speakers. Any help is greatly appreciated
Big subject, depends on your needs, budget, and what's most important to you. Brands such as Crown, QSC, Yamaha, Crest have my respect. Most of their products are well made and reliable. Behringer offers good value, and the EP2500 and EP4000 amps were known for being reliable. I would stay away from unknown imported brands that are suspiciously inexpensive. For DJ use, there are lots of choices that would be a good fit. With your speakers (assuming you want to drive all of them at once), look for an amp that is rated to drive down to a 2-ohm load.
I bought a used nu6000dsp...... The illuminated gain control won't stay orange. Is there a software setting preventing the power and fans from kicking on..... Or did I get burned?
I'm not an expert on repairing these amps, although I've had a couple successes. Some of the early units had power supply failures, or the protection circuit in the power supply would not enable the amplifier. Many of these issues appeared to be caused by failed SMT diodes. Evidently they had a part supplier who produced a large batch of diodes that could fail prematurely. I'd replace the power supply board, or start by checking the diodes on that board with a meter and replace anything suspicious. The parts are inexpensive. I'd also presume that an authorized service center is familiar with the common failures, and could get this resolved for you.
I wish you lived in Portland so I could hire you for shows..... I have a drive rack pa2....... With a driverack pa2 does the inuke dsp offer any additional features not in the pa2?
Thanks! I have a Driverack PA, which is pretty similar. With the Driverack I think you can do everything the amp DSP does, although setting clip-limiting isn't as easy as with the built in DSP. I'd still may opt for the DSP version of the amp if the cost isn't too great. I might even just use the amp DSP instead of the driverack (assuming I had DSP in all the amps) and save a rack space, and simplify things. A limitation with the Driverack PA is that it isn't really set up for doing aux-fed subs. I have to handle that channel separately. But, no big deal. More advanced versions of the Driverack do support that, but then again with digital mixers the overall need for processors like the Driverack is diminishing. Thanks for the comment!
Back in the day you paid a dollar a watt and up. I can understand not giving schematics. In the car audio world China has made identical copies with a few of the components being on the cheaper end. Power supply being a problem using a sealed unit. Using them conservatively they seem to work fine.
Yeah, it's a good deal for economical decent power. These units are fairly easy to service, aside from the parts being really small (like everything these days). They use all standard parts, with markings intact. I recently serviced an appliance where they covered the circuit board in epoxy, that was disappointing.
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Hi. I have the Inuke1000 e 3000. Os dois em 220volts. Usando duas subs de 18 polegadas no Inuke3000 estourou os 2 diodos retificadores numbers 13 and 14. Acho que não tive uma boa experiência com essas potências classe D e resolvi voltar para os velhos e confiáveis classe AB!
"Hi. I have the Inuke1000 and 3000. Both at 220 volts. Using two 18-inch subwoofers with the Inuke3000, both rectifier diodes numbered 13 and 14 blew out. I believe I didn't have a good experience with these Class D amplifiers and decided to go back to the old and reliable Class AB amplifiers!" I don't think there's a design problem with the amplifier, but they had a diode supplier problem and many turned out to be troublesome later. A lot of these amplifiers have had problems due to failed diodes. Once the bad diodes are replaced, I would expect the amplifier to work well and be reliable.
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@@Barry-Watson Acontece que já substituí os 2 diodos e mais um CI com número final PD1 que também estourou e o aparelho continua em modo de proteção. Como não tem um técnico em minha cidade, terei que procurar assistência quando for para outra cidade.
May i ask favor sir,My boss is a filipino American citizen has a resort business here in tha philippines,,in that matter,my boss bougth an amplifier to use for live band which is that NU6000DSP which is guaranted and satisfactorily very good,but his DJ (since the amplifier is originally 110 or 120volts ac supply) he plugged in to 220volts ac as our power supply here in the philippines, thats why the unit at fault particularly the power supply. my boss go to service shop to repair the amplifier but when its already done, the unit display cannot operate because the display is asking for the password to open its system. thank you sir if you can give me some hints or recommendations to activate this modern amplifier Thank You sir...🙏
I don't know, but I would try connecting to the amplifier with a PC via USB cable, and running iNuke Amp Connect software to see if you have the option of resetting. This software lets you adjust all the amp settings from a connected computer.
I bought the 6000 and it's now junk. Diodes failed in power supply rendered it useless. No load, nothing running through it. Just powered up and pop and that was it. Straight. up. JUNK. I should have listened to the people that told me it's junk. It doesn't really make 6000 watts. That's a lie. My crossover is also junk. I wouldn't take another piece of Behringer gear if I was paid to. Steer clear of this brand.
Sorry to hear about your poor experience. It's frustrating when gear doesn't meet expectations. However, it's essential to remember that one person's experience doesn't necessarily represent what is typical for the entire brand.
@@Barry-Watson I wanted all matching nice looking gear. My 6000 is out in the dumpster, the db buttons on the back of my crossover go in and out so I lose signal, the leds on my dual 31 eq have a bunch gone out and the 18" subs I bought, one of the speakers has blown. Every single piece of Behringer gear I've owned is either dead or has issues. Sorry to say it but that's about as across the board as it gets for me.
I don't know the answer. Have not had that issue. I would open it up, and see if there is a battery on the circuit board, like a watch battery. If so, remove that, unplug the amp, and turn it "on" (while unplugged). Then wait a day or two, put the battery back in, power up the amp and hope it reset the amplifier to its factory defaults. I would hope that Behringer customer support would have an answer for this one. I would assume they have a method of doing a hard factory reset on the amplifier.
INuke are the biggest POS I have ever owned, 3 I had had different PSU faults and were stuck in protect. But my Inter-M M2000 from the 90's keeps pushing on. Vintage all the way.
