Yes. After unclamping it there will be a little “spring-back”. This is something you must account for when setting up. But it will hold the resulting shape very well.
Artifishal sportfishing There are many factors to the spring-back. Length of rail, thickness of wood strips, overall thickness of rail, finished radius, and species of wood. I do not know of a specific formula, it is more of a feeling. A good guess wood be to bring the ends in about 3/8” further than where they should finish. Hoping that once unclamped, the rail sits right where it should.
I posted a vid of multi lamination , went with 1/8" slices cause of the tight radius , grinded to thickness and squared with angle grinder then hand shaped with router , very labor intensive
@@IdahoStairs I hate sanding lol , been at rails for 30 yrs , done some amazing projects , still love the job even though we've lost alot of the higher end work here in alberta
Man please get back to me I’m a 24 year old im gonna take my first contract for a stair build, tired of working for pennies and have worked stairs on occasions but not a master and you my friend are, I know you can answer a question on two that I got for you! God bless
@@IdahoStairs what about on a rake run? Don't you need to screw the platform to the floor or stairs in the house? I'm trying to figure out how to not remove end caps and existing handrail to bend new rails. Thanks.
You either need to find a way to attach the bending jacks to the stairs or framing, or you will have to build a false wall somewhere, that matches the rise, run, and radius of the existing staircase. You could remove carpet, and make bending jacks that attach there, and extend out over the end treads. You could attach 2x4s to the wall (that jog out to clear the end cap nosing), and then repair the drywall afterwards. Depending on how the end caps were made and installed, you may be able to remove them, then replace them after bending. Every situation is unique. In the end, it might be easiest to build a false wall somewhere, to bend the rail around.
@@IdahoStairs Strip-laminating bender-rail, is the industry standard (and suits the industry just fine too) but its certainly not the only way nor is it the best. It's not even the fastest method. It was developed by stair-part manufacturers, to enable regular, finish, carpenters to assemble their stair-rail products (including bender-rail.) With today's modern CNC milling capabilities, all curved handrails may now be milled out of solid planks and joined together. But even without the benefit of CNC machines, I stopped bending wood more than 20 years ago (just too many problems and limitations.) I'm retired now but every thing i did, was cut and shaped from solid wood. This includes curved/rake handrail segments and parts. Where did I learn to do this? From my old Dutch Grandpa and a small collection of ancient stair books. There are in fact, several different methods of producing curved handrail,. Most of them however, were learned and forgot generations ago. What you're doing though is good and profitable and there's nothings more important than that.
The glue squeeze out magically disappeared in the 24 hours of clamp time. You did not think that was an important thing to show...you know...how it just went away..
Using a damp rag to wipe away excess glue before it sets up is a good idea. You’re right the video did not show that. But it is nothing a belt sander won’t take care of, And once a rail is bent it requires a lot of sanding regardless. Thanks for watching.
