BetaFPV Lite 2 Radio - OpenTX, FrSky D16 FCC/LBT, D8. USB for sims and recharging ! 

So do you think is a good radio to use it with whoops?

@@scorpioga3t6 Yes, even though I now have the MPM module on Tango 2. My son now uses this to fly his whoop.

If we're onto a wish list, I would like the USB port in the top which makes it easier when playing on sims and gimbals which didn't jitter.

I would add a JR port 😇

@@nikotttin JR ports are yuuuuge... I'd rather keep the small form factor

It is a bit of a strange one as far as setup goes - and a very odd way of getting your subtrims right. You only need to do it once, but it's not exactly intuitive. You'll certainly have a much more straightforward experience with the TX16S as well as the radio being far more flexible and able to handle multiple models.

@@CurryKitten Thanks for your reply. I sent it back without opening it and got the RadioMaster TX16s

Haha, you know you are right. I'd completely forgotten about this command as I'd not had to use it for so long. But yes - much quicker way of doing things

Ok. I found an answer. But.... Its will not center your radio stick, but only adjust center point on this particular model. If you have 10 models you going to use with Literadio 2, then you need to do rx_range adjust for all of them.

The curse of the random RU-vid unsubscriber bug - happened to me before as well. Weird isn't it... but welcome back :D

Ooh, I hadn't heard of that binding-both-radios-to-a-single-rx thing. That sounds really useful for this sort of thing. I'll have to check it out

This is what I would like to know also

Yes - having opened it up, that mod would be pretty simple. As this is "just" a whoop radio for me, trying to eek out some extra range isn't really a concern

300 metres is plenty enough for a whoop with only a 25mw camera but good to know just in case I take out another D8 quad. Less bulk to lug around with this transmitter compared to my soon to have T16s.

Its a must have !

I guess so - I've seen a lot of mods to this radio, including 18650's in the arms along with an external display to turn it into a proper OpenTX radio! Find my sim on Steam, or grab it from github.com/CurryKitten/CurryKitten-Sim

CurryKitten Thanks mate! Yeah, I saw that external display mod... seems pretty rad- might do that if I like the radio more than my TX16 haha. Probably gonna have to pick up that sim, the chernobyl map was sweet!

So is it ok initially and then after a few hours it starts jittering ? Or is it that after 2 hours of use it was knackered and has remained like that?

Does it appear in Win10 ? I had to face similar issues and fixed it. Main thing being when you connect it: use a data micro Usb cable (sounds obvious but check different cables) . Then lower the throttle (left stick) whenever you start anything

Not working with my in the litfofff simulator too. I can’t turn on with the setup button pressed to connect to the Open Tx

What are you flying - if anything with a flight controller and so using something like Betaflight or iNav, then add expo via RC Expo (or to a lesser extent Superrate) in the appropriate configurator - you can't really do anything on the radio itself

If you are using windows, Windows might have updated your driver to one that doesn't work. Take a look at this page and attached video on how to check/fix the driver github.com/CurryKitten/CurryKitten-Sim/wiki/Notes-on-connecting-specific-radios

If you can't see a flash, perhaps it's happening a bit fast, but let's assume you get a single flash of purple between the transition from green to blue, so let's attempt to get it to d8. So power off and then press down the bind button with a screwdriver or something and hold that in whilst powering up the radio and keep it held in until the blue. Then turn it off and back on again to see if you are getting any visible flashes. We'd hope for two flashes at this point, so hopefully you can repeat eh procedure to get it to 3 flashes (d8)

Really easy - and nothing to do with the radio. An SPI receiver will pass the RSSI through, but not in a channel, so in the receiver tab RSSI should be set to Disabled and then in the OSD just make sure you do include the RSSI indicator and it should show you the value.

@@CurryKitten thanks a lot. you have been very helpfull..

If you've got something that suggests it's bound and the lights move, then my guess is that it's not arming. You need connect into betaflight and make sure that the arm switch is as expected and that throttle is at zero when the stick is all the way down.

@@CurryKitten On betaflight, it shows drone bound, controller works fine but on Modes all motors are dead no sign of life !!

@@alumahomeinspections7009 Odds on it's thinking the throttle is active and won't arm. Hence check on the receiver tab what your throttle position is when the stick is all the way down. Turn warnings on in the OSD and it should give you a reason why it's not arming. It's one of the potential problems using the same model in the radio for multiple quads. It means you have to go into the Betaflight settings for each of the quads and work around the fact that you can't change it in the radios model memory

Flight mode as in mode 1/2/3/4 or do you mean what receiver is it compatible with. It'll work on FrSky d8 and d16, but not the v2 ACCST

@@CurryKitten glad I asked... as the new dongles only bind with the v2 accst. Thank you sir.

Yeah - someone else mentioned it. The truth is that I haven't had to use the command for so long, I forgot about it. But yeah, it's a better idea. I'd probably still stick to doing my sub trims the way I did and then use rxrange for the endpoiints

You do need the battery in - this is because in order to go into joystick mode the radio needs to be powered on before you plug it into USB

@@CurryKitten Thanks for the reply. For some reason, I am unable to connect this controller to my liftoff simulator. It only worked once. I turn on the controller and the main power button turns red. I then plug the USB cable to my laptop but the simulator doesn't detect the controller. I have also tried playing with the bind button which sometimes changes color of the light in the power button but nothing seems to work. any idea what I may be doing wrong? :/

When you turn on the radio if it goes red, it indicates that it doesn't think it's throttle is at zero. If the throttle is at zero, you'll get a bit of flashing of the LED and it'll go solid Blue, at this point you can plug in the USB cable and it should work on the sim

@@CurryKitten you're right, I do see a solid blue LED once the throttle is at zero (all the way down) but the sim is still not detecting the controller :/ I also tried changing USB cables but all in vain. It worked just for once when I bought this day before yesterday.

Yes, but depends is the quick answer. This version I've got will bind to D8 and D16 compatible receivers, so as long as you have the right rx in the quad (something like a FrSky R-XSR or an XM+) then no issues binding to those and flying. I haven't personally tested the range of the radio, I think other people have mentioned it's ok though

Are you using that special version of companion that BetaFPV came up with?

I have the same problem. I'm on a literadio 2SE and it doesn't connect to opentx and I think it's because of the fact that it changes back to FrSky Taranis xd9+

Hmmmm. What radio type are you using in OpenTX companion? I ask because BetaFPV made themselves their own fork of OpenTX and added support for their radio, and that version is on their web page and was built around 2.2.4. So that's the only one you can use. If you use the 2.3.10 version of OpenTX companion you'll find that there isn't a BetaFPV Lite Radio under the Radio type drop down. You can't check for updates, because there are no updates, really the version of OpenTX companion is just there to do some basic setup, nothing else really.

I tried this out on my Sim in both MacOS and Windows 10 and it seems to appear fine as a "BetaFPV Taranis Joystick" The way I connect is to turn on the radio, wait for all the flashing to stop (so you have a solid blue light) and then plug it into USB

@@CurryKitten yeah I've got nothing doesn't work.. Connects but does nothing.. Oh well..

Can you run me through - in as much detail as possible how you are binding. Both from the radio point of view and betaflight

I’m in the same boat With the thf2 Just got in the mail yesterday have cycled though all protocols with no luck I’m in the us so I’m assuming I’m using the 1st option d16fcc Placed drone in bind Put controller in bind Wait for feedback from lights on drone ...no go I know after binding u should be able to flick controls and see the lights respond to the inputs which I do not get

I find it odd to add extra weight when it does nothing as well - other than make it feel heavier

@@CurryKitten if they really needed to make it heavier the weights could have easily been put in a mixing with a simple plate screwed on top to secure but I suspect they decided it needed to be heavier after the moulds for the shell had already he designed and made and didnt want to go thought the cost of re tooling . Its a really bad idea and I feel sorry for all the people who will end up with dead radios from the weights coming loose and because the majority will have bought from China they will have no warranty. I get the manufacturer thinks weight gives a feel of quality but I personally wouldn't mind an ultra lightweight unit, radios can get real heavy after long flying sessions, if it feels well made in the hand, weight shouldn't really make any difference.

Yep, should be fine, the r1 speaks D16 protocol and so does this radio

@@CurryKitten thx but the reciever says d 16ch does that mean anything or not

Yes - as I mentioned, D16 is the protocol that the receiver talks, and this radio can also use D16, so they will work together

It's got a single model memory, but it doesn't stop you binding multiple models to it. So if you setup lots of quads the same, you could fly them all on the single memory

Mine came broken - in terms of stuff rattling inside, but the gimbals have been fine. I've used it for maybe 20 hours or more. Usually when I'm developing my sim

@@CurryKitten I was curious because I bought this radio based on everyone doing a video saying how much they liked it and it's only $40. I bought it and it is a great remote. Never had a problem with it until last night for no reason the left gimbal stopped working. Plugging into Betaflight I can see that when I'm not touching the sticks the throttle jumps from 0% to 8% and the yaw is jumping around from about 60% to 80% right yaw. So out of nowhere the gimbal just decided it doesn't work anymore. I've found that this is a pretty common problem with this radio. For the life of me I can't figure out why they can't make a reliable potentiometer. I'm starting to think this entire hobby is a practical joke China is playing on the world. I made a potentiometer with an electronics kit I had when I was a kid about 35 years ago, but Betafpv can't make a reliable one? Just wow. Thanks for your response. Love your videos. The information is always helpful.

That's a pain - sometimes I tend to get the broken product in the pack, but occasionally whilst everyone is taking about things exploding non-stop (the crazybee boards spring to mind) I seems to get perfectly working products time after time. So, my one is still going strong, but if it's a common issue, then it's worth taking to BetaFPV. They've been a bit hit and miss in comms looking at peoples feedback, but they've also done things like destroy 100's of motors attempting to recreate user issues. I hope they put a fix together for this if it's happening to lots of people.

@@CurryKitten Well I ran my mouth a little too soon about their potentiometer making skills. I took it apart today and the problem was actually the red wire going to the yaw potentiometer. It had completely come off the solder pad. I'm not sure how that happened because the wires are soldered and then glued in place, but I did see that the 3 wires going to the yaw potentiometer rub the wires going to one of the switches every time you move the throttle up and down. So I think it was a combination of bad wire routing and a defective solder joint. I resoldered the wire on and it works again.

Can you try it in my sim - I'm interested to know if there's a difference. I just redid calibration and remapping for the last release, and I had this BetaFPV controller plugged in a lot of the time to test it. See this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-evYGzcN8m0c.html

Thanks,, I'll update you on what happens

@@CurryKitten do you have to have a quad hooked up to your computer to use your sim??? Also, I'm still trying to calibrate the sticks in freerider recharged, every time I give it a bit of throttle it's too much and it spins in circles as its ascending

No - you just need to plug in any sort of joystick, or something that appears as a joystick like this radio. Even if the sticks are way out, calibration should work - it literally just records the mid point, and high/low positions and then interpolates everything from there.

@@CurryKitten your sim seems to be working pretty good with my radio

There are 2 options on the model of radio, one is FrSky and the other is Bayang. I've no idea how you might tell them apart though..aside from seeing which receiver the radio works with

CurryKitten oh... I thought by reading the description on BetaFPV, it also supported Bayang. No worries!! Be safe brother.

I haven't had a proper look. They do sell a mode 1 and mode 2 version which tells me that it's either not trivial, or they've just considered that people might want to change it.

No, Inductrix uses Spektrum's protocol.

you wanna get the frsky d8 version.. d16 doesnt work well with the tinyhawks

It's isn't for a specific function, it depends what you set it to in betaflight. You can absolutely use it for a buzzer if you want

If you didn’t bound yet, hopefully you did, connect the drone to betaflight and from cli, write (bind_RX), and check the remote , drone use same protocol , like Frsky D8

I suggest you do the same that I did in the video. Using the special version of OpenTX change the subtrim/endpoints on your yaw channel until they are ready the right centre/min/max values in betaflight

I think I'd change the betaflight config (which sounds the easiest) Move the arming part (in the mode setup) to where it should be when you click arm. You could also reverse the switch in OpenTX - but that seems more involved.

@@CurryKitten Silly me thanks it was the bar in the mode tab I should of checked, all sorted thanks buddy

There are several race series within the UK and lots of clubs/organisations doing their own thing. Of course, going outside, isn't all that big in the Uk at the moment, so FPV has suffered as well. Have a look on Facebook for the UK drone racing groups, there's plenty out there and Facebook is probably the best place to find them right now

Should just be the case of plugging into USB (while the radio is off) and the LED ring should light up red to indicate it's charging. It won't light up if it's fully charged though

Sorry to hear that. I can only base my review around how it works for me. I got this pretty early in the life, and there wasn't really many radios to compare it to. I certainly had a bit of a wobble on the roll (as pointed out in the video) and arrived slightly broken - one could certainly read QA into that

I think it was the Emax TinyHawk S

It's documented on the product page betafpv.com/products/literadio-2-radio-transmitter power on whilst holding the bind button and the led will flash to indicate which protocol it's on.1 flash FCC, 2 flashes, LBT and 3 flashes D8

You are at least the 4th person who has managed to do this... you might think about forming a Facebook group ;) I stuck the firmware I pulled from my radio here drive.google.com/file/d/1XOXQt64qBB1M-yqSJoXWDrShEzEwszQq/view?usp=sharing so you can restore it using the BetaFPV version of OpenTX companion

Yeah sorry I read down and spotted the links to the files u posted last night I used them the controller at least now turns on and binds again but still have no control of roll when I run in beta the quad is just spinning and I plug into the simulator same issue quad just spins think I've copped for a duff one ...

@@mavicmillar2641 Check your yaw cable inside radio. Mine was broken.

@@aib666 thx will do

There's just too much on 5Ghz going on now. Prior to covid I could pick a channel/band on my VTX that would be clean, but with the increased number of people working from home the airwaves are completely saturated with interference on every channel/band combo!

I feel that sort of figure is unlikely

Did you download the specific OpenTX companion on their site and then select the Lite 2 Radio? If you try it with any other version of OpenTX Copmanion it just won't work at all

@@CurryKitten Yes. I even got it working after fiddling with the controller and pressing the setup button in some order. Whats the physical process of plugging it in with setup mode enabled? For example, Turn on controller > press setup button > plug in usb > run opentx companion.. Thanks for the response!!

Ah, yes a but weird isn't it. You hold in the setup button and then press the power button, and then plug in USB. You will notice that when you press the power button with setup pressed you don't get an LED lighting up which makes you wander if anythings happening. It's not particularly intuitive.

The LiteRadio2 is a one-trick pony. It had a single model memory, no screen and a limited ability to configure things. With a "full" radio, you have lots of model memories, a screen to set things up, the ability to use external modules, upgrade openTX and potentially more switches and sliders.

@@CurryKitten i have only the need of a better precise radio. I currently use a emax e6 radio that have really bad gimbals. I don't think I'll buy more drone for the next 1-2 years

@@scorpioga3t6 also reliability mine got bad gimbals (common issue if you search around) after 10 flights so now I have a useless radio.

Really depends on your use. I see the BetaFPV Lite2 as a simple radio you'd just for whoops and sims. Beyond that, and if you were flying a lot of different models that needed different setups and more range, then I'd go with a more traditional radio. I've got no direct experience of the 6X personally though (I've had other FlySkys in the past)

So when you say it doesn't bind anymore? You turn on and wait for the LED to display solid blue and at that point you should be able to press the bind buttong an have it rapidly flash purple. What's your radio doing ?

​@@CurryKitten now the led is blue but it doesn't bind, and you don't blink blue and red

all the levers towards the bottom, it lights up in green and then changes to solid red.

I also tried to download the updated version of OpenTX 2.3.9 but Lite Radio 2 no longer exists :(

@@carloparisio-waysfpv8407 Ok, so if it goes green and then solid red it means it thinks you have the throttle raised - if it is only a little bit then it won't go to solid blue Is it possible you changed the calibration of the throttle and now it's slightly offset? In which case change it back - if you refer to my video it will show the original settings there. The other thing to mention is this radio isn't supported (in an official sense) by OpenTX, so it won't be in 2.3.9 or any other release you will find on OpenTX - BetaFPV made themselves a special version of OpenTX Companion, so you have to use that one to make it work

The Tiny Hawk S has a D8 compatible receiver in it, so yes

@@CurryKitten thank you

I'm not aware of any country that requires a license just to use a radio of this type - but if in doubt, check with your local model association

It worked for me going around the house (4 beds - but depends on size I guess) and also went outside around the house and it held the signal ok. Results will definitely vary though

it cant work (calibrate) on simulator

@@arifatmoko I got it to work on my simulator. Have to role back the controller driver.

This is generally the line I've had from people - if something has gone wrong, then support is not there. I'll be passing it back. I've just had that original lipo in the Lite 2 die on me with one of it's cells completely dead - so worth getting it on a proper charger just to make sure yours looks fine. I could be mine was just a dodgy lipo, but I didn't get the chance to check that the radio was balancing the cells properly

@@CurryKitten i wanto to signal, instead, happymodel as having a good support: very fast answers and solutions for my mobula6hd issues (bf upgrade issues). To be clear, I am not yet able to fly with mobula 6 in my house. too instable. but I am a beginner... With other ready to fly woops (smallpepper e013, others...) I have no issues. But in this case (remote to tune, pid to tune, my incompetence, ...) I have troubles. It's the price to pay, I think.... Luckily there is your sim, Thanks again! :)

Yes - but you would really need to make sure they are all set up in the same way

Yes you can

The switches are each set to a channel (5-8) so go into betaflight and decide what switch you want to use and assign it to whichever mode you want.