I still flight my BIX3 almost all weekend and publish my videos about what a I learn with him and all can learn too. It's a great RC Airplane to learn, I say that in all my videos. The fact of BIX3 have landing gear is advantage in my opinion to learn to do great landings. And have Flaps... Be welcome and again, thanks very much for this review, best regards!
Great to hear João. I certainly flew mine a lot and for a long time. I mostly use it to reach my son to fly. But you have inspired me so maybe I should take it out next time for some touch and go practice!
6 лет назад
Great, let's go forward, Bix3 again in the air, best regards...
Paul Williamson I am really glad that the clip was helpful. I am sorry to hear that the soundtrack was annoying though. Can you tell me, was it that type of music that you didn't like or just that it was playing in the background or too loud? I appreciate your feedback, while I am learning more about putting these videos together.
Michael Downie Hi Michael, just the type of 'elevator music' - it's been stuck in my head for days! Did you use the glue that was supplied with your Bix3? How did you find it?
Paul Williamson Hi Paul, Sorry about the music, it is a hard task to find anything decent, for free. But yep, I did use the supplied glue to but the fuselage halves together. It sticks well, but I did find it tricky to squeeze out just the right amount into the right spots, without making a mess. I figured, at the time, it was easier to use that for a large area like the fuselage rather than the hot glue which might have cooled too much before it got it all laid out. It did give me a bit more time to get it all together. Hot glue for the tail, because I had used all the supplied glue on the fuselage and it was just a small area, perfect for the hot glue. I was a bit forgetful when putting on the tail and did not make sure to line it all up correctly. So, I'd strongly recommend to have the wing on and eye ball the alignment of the tail when you put that on. Good luck, let us know how you go. Michael
Hi FreakSX93 thanks for the comment, I think it was very lucky to get it down! I as a first plane the Bixler 1 or 2 or AXN Clouds Fly are actually better flyers that the BIX3. But, if you think that you'll want to get into FPV or mounting cameras, the BIX3 is the way to go for sure It is much easier to load up with all sorts of gear than the others. Don't get me wrong, this is a very steady plane too but the others are even better flyers, in my opinion. You will be happy with any of them to learn with, but depending on what you want to get out of the hobby, there are some differences worth considering. Cheers Michael
Michael Downie Thanks for the reply. You are right with the FPV. This is the next step I want to take after learning to fly without a cam ;) Is the actual effect of full flaps down on the bix3 at a 'normal weight' noticable?
Hi Ron Smith, you have posted the comment in a way that I can't attach a reply. So, I hope you will find this.... I like hot glue for a lot of reasons, some more important than others but I'll try listing them in no particular order - - I have hot Glue - It is cheap - It is easy to work with from the respect that a squeeze of the trigger mostly ends up with the glue where I intended it to go - It creates a great bond with the foam from heat and the actual glue - It dries fast - It is a little flexible once it is dry, so less likely to crack - It is cheap (oops I already said that...I am cheap) - I can use it as a protective layer - I can use it for hinges All that being said, CA glue is very popular is the hobby and loads of people swear by it. There is a lot of variety in the thin think medium etc. It is very strong. I just have never really used it. Hope that helps. Cheers Michael
great video. i just got mine and this is my first plane with a 3c. what do you recommend i charge it with. also what plugs did you put the ailerons in. I'm not sure yet and i can't test it because I don't know how to charge the battery. Thanks!
Thanks Philip, good luck with your Christmas BIX! The car is a 1965 Ford Falcon Wagon (XP). I've had it about 5 years now, no modern conveniences, but it is awesome to drive around in and fits lots of planes in the back too!
Hello michael! Did you try the supplied prop? Am asking because mine causes a lot of vibration and am wondering if the problem is the prop. Cheers Chris!
odie175 Hi odie, yes I think that there a lot of guys taking the decals off. They are water slide decals, so it should not be too much trouble for you to get them off with a little bit of water. Out of the box the decals actually flake off very easily. I see a lot of comments from guys that say the decals come off during their build. I did cover most mine with a layer of packing tape for protection, but I have noticed on the tips of the horizontal stabiliser (tail) the parts of the decals that are not protected by the tape have some damage from getting in and out of the car and bad landing.
Michael How did you insert the rudder and elevator servos? I had to attach the servo arm to the push rods first. then I had to push the arm onto the motor. at this point it was impossible to insert the servo screws.
G'day James, I mounded mine while the fuselage was in two halves, but I have had to swap them out. It is a bit of a twisting action. I made a video here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-91SPQA51cLo.html I hope that helps. Cheers Michael
how is your esc prop and motor combo running? im thinking about getting the same running gear .. which happens to be on my teksumos .. am thinking 6x4. would you know the amp draw with your prop?
It is running well. I also have the same set up on my tek sumo with the exception of the ESC which is 25amp Hexfet. I ran the watt meter on it and seems to max out at about 20amp draw on full throttle. That is with the 7x5. I used to run the 6x4 on the Bixler 2.0 and it was good too. I 'll have some maiden fight footage of the BIX 3 soon.
Great video mate.. thanks. Just ordered my Bix today. did you have to cut the Bix 3 in half yourself, or does it come like that? if you cut, what did you use to cut it?
Hi Kev, I ordered the Almost Ready to fly (ARF) version and the fuselage did come in two halves. No need to cut. It does also come with glue for you put the two halves together. For the build the only extra bits I needed are the servo extensions, servos, motor, ESC and receiver. Plus batteries of course. Good luck with your build!
Michael Downie Thank you very much.. I ordered the PNF version, so it will probably be stuck together.... I wonder if I can cut it in half anyway.. too many rods maybe..
***** I'm sure you could run a hobby knife up the seam, but it might not end up too pretty down the tail and through the wing joint. But honestly there is a lot of access the through the top, where the wing attaches and in front through the canopy. I'm sure you'll be able to get any extra bits in without splitting the fuse. Keep me posted though, I'd be interested to hear how you go. Cheers
Hi *****, yes I used the supplied glue to put the fuselage together. It works just fine and because it takes a little time to set, it gave me a bit of time to make sure I covered (one half) of the fuse in all the spots needed before joining them together. The tape is really more to protect the stickers/transfers/decals. So I have it on the fuse, the leading edge of the wings and elevator. Cheers Michael
Michael Downie Thanks for your reply Michael, I'm mounting my Bix3 right now but I've got some problem with servo mounting.. The holes of the servo are very tiny compared to the metal rod.. i.imgur.com/1w4AMWr.jpg Any idea ? ^_^
***** sure, this is quite common. I usually use the point of my Xacto knife to carefully enlarge the hole second from the end. Place the tip of the Xacto (I use the Xacto (hobby knife) because it is more pointy than a Stanley knife (box cutter)) into the hole on the servo arm and slowly rotate it. I do a little on one side and then a little on the other side. If you have some very small drill bits you can use a matching one and turn it just using your fingers.
Michael Downie At the end I used the "small drill" way to enlarge the hole :) But, the problems are not end :'( .. I'm going crazy, how to install the fuselage servos ? It's impossible!! :)
***** oh no! What's the problem with the servos? When I installed mine I plugged them in to the reciever to make sure they where centered. Then wiggled servo onto the oush rod while putting into place. Once it is connected to the push rod and fitting into place I add some hot glue to hold them in. It can be a bit tricky!
Hi @christos papachris I don't seem to be able to make a reply direct to your question. But, no I have not used the supplied prop. It would be too big for the recommendations of the motor (Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv) that I installed. In fact the 7x5 that I have is a little bigger than recommended for 3s too, but I run at about half throttle and none of the gear seems to get hot or misbehave. I may try a smaller 6x4 prop to see the difference. If you are getting a lot of vibration I would suggest that the prop is not balanced. If you do a search on RU-vid there are a lot of videos that can help with prop balance, I hope that helps.
Hi Carlo Alberto Pacchioni For the version I bought, there is no remote included. Depending on where the closest Hobbyking warehouse to you is, you can buy Ready To Fly (RTF) version of the plane. Try here - www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=56543&aff=1037547 Cheers Michael
Hey , thanks for your response! I do have the plug and fly version but there was no manual of any kind in the box with it. Today i found a manual for the plane on the shop website where i bought it, so i think most info should be in there? I have a few things i need to do (i think): 1. install 2 servo's for the flaps and connect them to the cable grid i guess ?XD 2. put the plane together ( I think i can do that, it al locks self explaining ) 3. setup my reciever/controller things. this part am not sure how to do. I must say that i know how to fly but never got a totaly new plane before, so all that comes before the flight is new to me. ':-) This is what i got: - Bixler 3 Glider 1550mm (61") PNF - Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & iA8 Receiver (Mode 2) (AFHDS 2A system) - 2x Micro Servo 1.6kg / 0.12sec / 9g - Foam-Cure EPP and EPO Foam Glue 4 oz - 3X Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 35~70C Lipo Pack
Yea, the Manual is totaly missing the servo instalation and nothting to be found about the controller/reciever at all XD I would think these days those simple instructions are to be standard right. Atleast the queality of the planes are a lot better than they where 20 years ago..
Yeah, I have not been making RC videos for a while now, but when I was, it was always a bit of a tough thing editing in or out the right things. Stuff like hooking up the servos to a receiver is the same for most planes and different for a lot of receivers, so it would get its own video. And in fact there are loads of videos on the Turnigy 9x. Here is mine for the set-up of the flaps on the three position switch - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k1NCFyPpnO0.html Good luck with the rest of your set-up and maiden flight.
Hi Snowball Gaming no at that point in the vid I was doing a 'practice' fit. But after I was happy I did then use the supplied glue around the fuse running all the way down the tail and repeated the process of putting the two halves together again. Cheer Michael
Hi Snowball Gaming The aileron and flap servos are not an issue at all, just slot them in with your choice of adhesive or a small square of double sided tape. I have had a couple of questions about installing the Rudder and Elevator servo. You do need a bit of a twisting action to connect the servo arm on to the control rod at the same time as you are putting in the servo. I did a vid of the install into what is left of my Bixler 2 fuse for one the the other users, I think you can get access via this link - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-91SPQA51cLo.html Hope that helps, cheers Michael
For the receiver inside the airplane, I'm having troubles because I don't know which pin goes in which number on the receiver. I have a propeller pin, rudder pin, elevator pin, aileron pin and flap pin. I have no idea which pin goes in which number on the receiver. Can someone please help me???? Thanks!!
Redhoppy Usually (but depends on your receiver) you should connect as follows - Channel 1 - Ailerons Channel 2 - Elevator Channel 3 - Throttle (Propeller) Channel 4 - Rudder Channel 5 - Gear (but depends on how you set your transmitter auxiliary channels AUX) Channel 5 - Flaps (but depends on how you set your transmitter auxiliary channels AUX) Also when you connect your servos plugs to the receiver they must go onto the pins correctly (with the right polarity (Plus and Minus)). I think that most receivers will be marked with the negative symbol (as a minus) for the black wire. All of mine have the minus at the bottom. Cheers Michael
How do you find that motor? I'm deciding on parts for my own ARF build. I'm stuck between the motor you used (D2826-6 2200kv) and Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 2836-1500. I'm going to do fpv and gopro. I want decent power but not insane overkill... Also would these servos be good?: www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__662__HXT900_9g_1_6kg_12sec_Micro_Servo.html Thanks a ton!
G'day CDC444RC I like the D2826 2200kv, but I am starting to find that I'd like longer flights (timer is set for 10mins on 2650mAh 3s) and I think a different motor might be the way to go. The D2826 sure has loads of power with the 7x4 prop and I have a few of them on other planes too. There is no problem carrying my FPV gear and a GoPro Hero 3 in the hard case. AUW 1500g. I don't have any experience with the other Aerodrive motor you mentioned but the specs look like that would give you more than enough power too. I have seen an excellent video by 7demo7 on his install of that motor, check it out - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-esZTzJtfRjM.html Another option might be a NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22418&aff=1037547 Those servos are well known and quite reliable. I personally like metal gear servos on the ailerons of the BIX, but I use these servos on loads of other planes and they have performed well. Hope that help, post back here with your final decision and let us know how it goes. Cheers Michael
Michael Downie Thanks. I think I'm going for the Aerodrive SK3. I'm stuck on how to mount. I'll try figure out if I can do that on the stock mount or buy the same one the 7demo7 had. Do you like the stock mount or is it crap? Say the motor is too wide, could I slide the mount all the way to the end and have the motor stick out or can't the mount do that? Also what is your reasoning on the metal gear servo? I understand they stronger against stripping but heavier. It seems like its a pain to replace the elevator and rudder servo so those should be metal but aileron is easy so that can be plastic? What do you think about mods to move the servo's to the tail for easy replacement? Thanks.
CDC444RC Yeah, looks like that Aerodrive is a good unit. I did mount the motor in my Bixler 2 with the stock mount pushed to the end, like you are thinking. I did not have any worries with it at all and I crashed the hell out of my Bixler 2. I have heard a few people complain about the motor mount, but I have never had any issues with mine. It is just a piece of moulded plastic, so maybe some people have had a bad batch. But once it is glued into the foam, I can't imagine how there could be any worries with it. I like metal gear on the ailerons just for the security and durability, but that being said I have a number of planes that run the plastic gear HTX900 (or similar) servos all over, so it is not a big deal and there is not much difference in the weight at all. I had some of the really cheap white Hobbyking HK15178 servos on my FT22 and they work just fine until you have a hard landing or hit the control surface pushing too much force back through the servo. I think the HTX900 are better than HK15178, but still not as good as metal gear servos in my opinion. I didn't have too much trouble getting the servos in for the rudder and elevator, but I have had a few people ask about it. (I did a demo vid for one guy - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-91SPQA51cLo.html) I think that the only reason the servos I installed there are metal gears is because that is what I pulled out of my Bixler 2. And they were in there because I crashed it so many times, the stock plastic geared servos died. One aileron servo striped in the air, causing an interesting landing! Bottom line, if you have the HTX900 use them all round, they are good. You can never be guaranteed that a servo won't fail, plastic or metal gear. Cheers Michael
Hi Toby Moose, you have posted the comment in a way that I can't attach a reply. So, I hope you will find this.... Firstly, well done on getting a BIX3. As for a charger, there are loads, I have one from a mate of mine at RCBITZ - rcbitz.com.au/Batteries_Accessories/Accessories/FT680_6Amp_80Watt_Lipo_NiMH_RC_Battery_Balance_Charger This charger will take care of your 3 Cell batteries for the BIX. As well as 2, 4, 5 and 6 cell too. But depending on the connections of your battery, you might need to make a connector to go from the charger to your battery. I have all XT60 type batteries and the charger didn't come with a matching one. As for my ailerons I have them connected to a y-harness and plugged into channel 1. Hope that helps. Cheers Michael
