I can't imagine how you answer every response made and all the work you do every day on all your calls and still respond in such a timely manner, You have a Great Channel,your doing great. Thanks
good work steve, as a current hvac student I'm learning a lot from your videos. learned a bit about oil burners recently so it's good to see how to service that kinda system.
Awesome video man! Real informative from start to finish.. Love the testo combustion analyzer too! Great tool .. Like you said, without that you're just guessing and that boiler would be sooted up again. Noticed the stack temp was high but better to burn it hot and clean and give up a few efficiency points. 80% is pretty good for oil. Thanks for your sharing of wealth of knowledge Steve!
Man, talk about incomplete combustion!!!!!!! Once it starts making soot, it's trouble. Nice clean up job, that is what I call not normal service-maintenance, again great job Steve.
I hate when they get this bad, takes forever to get them cleaned up, but it's pure satisfaction when I get them up running clean again and the customers love you. I always stress they need to be serviced every year.
Christian Cillo yes Steve seems to do a good job ,but doesn't explain what he is doing well enough for someone to do what they need to do to fix their own boiler. Not putting his workmanship down at all ,just his teaching skills if you know what I mean?
in a way, i am glad winter is coming up, these boiler vids just fascinate the hell out of me. shit man, there was a wheelbarrow of carbon and soot buildup in that beast! good thorough job there. the pride in your work really shines , in all your vids, but especially in these boiler vids. thanks for posting
@11:42 You put in a .85gph nozzle in a 140 psi, that's equivalent to a 1.01gph nozzle in a 100psi. This boiler looks way too small to to handle a 1.01gph (or a little bit over 140,000 BTU) efficiently and causes fast soot built up and higher stack temperature. I would find out the correct BTU for this burner and calculate the right gph it needed and use the right nozzle size, adjust the pump pressure and air. If the boiler is rated at .85gph then I would use a .75 gph nozzle and adjust the pump pressure from 140psi to 125psi instead of .85gph on a 100psi
We have the same problem and the guy that came here said the heat exchanger was messed up… it wasn’t broke, but it did look just like that. The man didn’t take a soot saw to it at all. He’s trying to get more money out of us I think. 🤬 BUT that’s NOT gonna happen. A chimney sweep is coming tomorrow, and me and my dad will clean the soot out of the unit ourselves if we have to. I wish people were good and honest, but unfortunately that’s a rare trait these days. 😢 Thank you for the video!! It’s extremely informative and it saved me a ton of money!! Money I don’t have. God bless you!!
in one of your other videos I posted the problem I had with a new NYT OIL BOILRT WITH THE BECKETT BURNER were it did just what this was like, but it had 1-1/4 round tubes running down though the water jacket, 16 of then, had to take the whole top off to clean that huge mess, there was no build up on the retention head or burner opening, but everything else was the same as this, a smoke test was done on it after I installed it, it was good I was told, later after the 3 time I found a big crack in the wall of the fire box and nyt replaced the whole unit under warranty but with a riello bf5 burner saying the becket they were having problems with, now I hate how hard it is to bleed all the time with the shot 5 second cut out time, it is hard to find a good oil burner guy here, since I replaced the unit I have called every heating shop to come out and do a smoke test on this new unit, they have all told me they don't have the meter for that, I ask do you not service oil burners as your ad says, oh yes we do, then why do you not have the meter to set them up, oh we just set them until the flame looks good, well I can do that, but it do not tell me what I need to know as most every one is using gas or propane, I called a few weeks ago to my wholesaler for a price for a new oil boiler, they told me it would take time to get a price as they have not sold an oil unit in 2 years, they all been gas or propane or electric, wow electric I find that hard to be leave as we have the highest hydro rates in Canada. its like oil is a thing of the past, back in the day when I was shown in the bush camps I worked in, how to repair a oil burner in the camp bunk houses there was no such thing as a smoke test.
I have the same Burnham brand installed in Dec. 2009, Filled up with soot and burned up the nozzle and cone. Also spread soot throughout my house. Furnace cleaned 2015, a year before problem. Turned out nozzle installed was too big, gave furnace too much oil.
The stack temperature loss is high ( soothing acts as heat exchanger insulation ) the oxygen percentage would be in the 7 % but less than that looks like an excess of air levels, once the oxygen percent goes up the CO2 byproduct should go low probably in the middle of 10 - 11 percentages. I wonder if pulling the combustion head assembly in and out makes a difference in a better combustion efficiency....thanks for sharing
What a mess, I wonder if the last guy did clean it, Hummm, You got the numbers looking good. I better get my testo out and check the batteries are charged up. Nice job Steve.
Good work man, the F..... Company's only clean the top but never the chamber and the pipeline use a musk, teach this company's to do the right work because home owner always pays the bill
I'd like to try and clean my own boiler myself it's an oil-based system it's running fine I just have a little bit of dark smoke coming out of my chimney. I wanted to try to sweep my chimney myself as well I just want to make sure it's safe before I do so.
I have the same Burnham just a bit bigger 159.000 btu and he's right the retention head in the blast tube is tricky. The only way to set it properly is with the meter the carbon and stack temperature have to be low as you can see dirty boiler left unattended can make a mess. This triangle tube system is great.Beckett made to be punished the last for years with care. Carbon should be under 11 with a good draft 7-8 and the stack should be 500 degrees or as cool as possible. He does good work wish he serviced RI
@@stevenlavimoniere Ive cleaned gas boilers in the same way we clean oil fired .i had one last week where drywall guys were running a whole gouse fan with all the windows closed and running the heat.plugged boiler section..sooty flue pipe..and burnt rollout switches on this gas boiler
My mom has the same model boiler and I'm having a really hard time getting it to burn right. It passes all of my bachrach smoke and draft tests when I'm there to service it. Dont know what else to check for. Maybe nozzle drip? Clean cut pump? I have no idea
that is seriously plugged. I had a boiler, that had a cone shaped pile of soot, just under the collector cover, made by Columbia. and it was power vented to boot.
I have a question, I have a 2008 WM Gold with a Becket AFG, the last tech ( a new guy from the oil co) that came out charged but did nothing, no filter change, no adjustments, the boiler makes a booming noise and vibration in the first minutes of fire up. All he wanted to do was replace the oil tank. Which didn't leak and no scanning, just his opinion. So I replaced with a Roth tank, looks lovely, but the booming noises came back after a month? any ideas? Thank you, I love watching your videoes and of course your little pup...Best regards, Bruce
For someone who doesn't work on oil stuff your video may be hard to understand as you work fast ( i.e. retention vs fuxed burners, air shutter adjustments, etc), these very important items setting up a safe firng oil burner..excellent job Steven! Have you done smoke test on this boiler? We require to be attached with combustion report!
i have a boiler where it looks like oil is dripping out of a pipe when it hits the floor it turns sticky it used to be a oil heat that was turned to forced air any suggestions to what that might be
hey steve , looks like the other guy just fired her up and walked away instead of checking the fire to see if the thing was even burning properly . he must be the kind that just walks in , makes some noise grabs the customer's money and leaves . another great video .....
Hi Steven, i never saw furnace this dirty how can get this much dirty , this was seetiest furnace i ever seen, good job cleaning it, wasn't easy. What do you think , what is average time before a good working furnace to soot up, how often needs to be cleaned .
Ours took about a week after a very capable technician cleaned ours, then it smelled like burning soot, then it ran dry and exploded before we could even call the tech back. It was the boiler manufacturer's fault.
damn...steve I have never seen one that bad. im big on gas and combustion, so correct me if im wrong, weren't those stack temps a bit high? I have a Bacharach combustion analyzer and will be upgrading to the Testo 320. keep posting videos...
would some one assist please, I have an issue with a twin ignition burner wich at starting the fire is not stable and is being blwon away then making lots of smokes, PLEASE HELP.
Why is it sooting up so fast? Poor combustion, crappy fuel, previous guy did not really clean it out? What's the deal? My unit sooted up pretty quick last year. Tech changed nozzle from 1.0 to 0.8gal/hr. I guess it was running rich.
Did they get some cheap oil to make it soot up like that? I know if You run Diesel fuel, it will gel or freeze up, if You don't mix some kerosene with it.
our boiler at work sooted up much worse than this (filled the whole boiler room up, coating everything like black snow) but there is no clean job in a case like this...
Pleare help we are off the.grid and.have a.oil stove that is.gravity fed but the glass is always sooty I cleaned it all and lengthened the stove pipe but within two days.its glass is black again I.need.help
She was crusty. Steve what's the cam supposed to be set at on weil McClain qb-180? Should it match the nozzle GPH or? I had same soot situation after 2 months
I have hit the reset probably 10-15 times. Now that I’ve got myself up to speed, I realize that after I adjust the electrodes for the igniter, 1/8 horizontally apart - 1/2 inch vertically from point, I’m afraid to try it considering all the oil I dumped in there. How can I remove the existing oil in the burn chamber?
These are some of the nicest boilers to have soot up. You can open them up so far. The carbon in the end cone, Clean that off with your torch. So easy and kinda fun.
732 deg F.....Wow... the burner is way over fired. Can you adjust the oil pressure at the nozzle via the pump. How much fuel are you putting in? 100PSI will give what is stamped on the nozzle. I have never seen you use a pressure gauge on an oil pump so how can you calculate the energy input,. You need to get that flue temperature down. Get the manufacturers manual it will tell you how to set it up. The burner head pushed completely forward is for maximum heat input adjustment but if you don't know how much fuel you are burning you are wasting your time.
weird thing is he usually never leaves a CO reading that high. My Bacharach tester says 100PPM is the max. I thought that temp was wicked high as well. O2 and CO2 looked good though...
Its amazing that oil burner ran at all as blocked as it was with the soot. Those people are very lucky they did not sucuumb to CO poisoning. Did they have CO alarms in the house?
I don't work on oil burners in my part of the country but I cannot imagine it got that bad in the 5 months since the last guy was there. Especially since all it has been doing lately is heat water for the faucets. Last guy probably just changed the nozzle and left. Didn't do a proper inspection.
Same thing happened to me here. Had to clean out everything inside and out. Was puffing black smoke at the chimney and just came back worse within a few weeks. A tech came out to tune it right it's been fine.
How did you manage to get by with a class B connector and barometric between the boiler and the stack? Should have been class A all the way to the stack.
Beckett z heads are soot blasters when not set up properly. Install a Riello F-5 with a .75 60w with new oil line and a spin on filter and you will never vac that boiler again.
Charles Blyman why not set up the original burner properly to begin with . a new burner can be set up bad aswell . not everyone can afford to pay for a new burner that they do not need .
In all my years having my oil burner serviced not one guy has ever gone through and did the job correctly the first time they always rush through. Then I have to call them again to come back go through make more adjustments and so on. One time I just want a service guy that makes sure the job is right before they leave they just fire it up see a flame and to them it's all good. It wouldn't bother me if when they're done they do a performance check and find another issue and let me know they need to come back or don't have the parts etc but they always leave leaving it to me to figure out later it's still not working properly. I had one guy tell me it's normal for older units to leak water. I didn't think that was right leaks can be fixed and it was fixed by me just a bad pressure relief valve the old one was totally waisted but that was normal I guess if you leave it that way. I don't understand it's not like I don't pay and I really don't care how long it take just do it right that's why I have somebody else do it.
Steve, Is it possible that service was done, then windows and doors were closed during AC season and house ran out of combustion air? Seems like a pretty newer home with all that insulation
+Joe Friday very large cieler all open plenty of make up air there thats not a issue ,the problem was the guy had the air band closed to much not enough air
+steven lavimoniere judging on how that head looked could be a bad cut off on fuel pump. I'm not a fan of those Beckett heads either. Last tech may of had weak spark If the air was choked down just to get it to light. There's a lot of lazy people out there and everywhere checking spark and pump pressure can go a long way
It’s probably because it is the only thing that has been serviced correctly in years. The technicians in the past probably only vac around the furnace and the damper and change the nozzle.
Anyone know of a good service tech in the Milford Pa. Area. I cleaned and changed filter ,nozzle adjusted electrodes,and cleaned the pump screen which was not even dirty. But it filled up with soot in only two weeks. I cleaned it again and played with the air and it's seeming to work but after just about cutting air way down to almost off. I'm just nervous and need a professional to prove the pipe and burner for the right air. I have a Carlin motor. Thanks for any help
What do you do with all that soot powder, Like when you empty the vacuum? I'm not a fan of those Carlin transformers, they seem to not last as long as the older ones.
