You should ALWAYS remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine for a few times to build up oil pressure after you fit one of these. Then replace fuse and start normally and you will not hear a single rattle, failure to do so gives your timing chain guides 4 to 5 seconds of possible termination as the chain slaps them to bits. BE WARNED.
No true. I replaced mine and heard maybe half a second of a dry start sound, for sure nothing 4 to 5 seconds long. Engine started normally and I had no issues (including sounding) after that. I may be good idea to remove that fuse as you say, definitely worth to do. But nothing cruitial.
@@TheEpicHitmarker Low RPMs. Engine doesn't start. Meanwhile oil pressure builds, including inside the tensioner, putting tension on the chains. Without this, little to no tension will be on the guides and thus play between chain and guides will be greater
I had a P0021 in my 01' 740i after doing a full timing guide replacement. I used the cheaper kit. As you probably already know, Bank 2 is driver side (in a LHD car). I removed and replaced the valve cover about 15 times, making small adjustments each time to the cam timing wheel/cog. Finally got this thing to work. I removed the torx in the front of the timing cover and a little at a time rotated the timing wheel, reassembled, cleared codes, started it, restarted it. If you have a P0021, you don't have to re-time it entirely (unless maybe you're off by a tooth, though not sure how you can really do that). I put a long punch through the timing hole (torx bolt hole in upper timing cover) and my correct timing was just on the right margin of the hole in the timing wheel. So, in other words, the punch was just right of center of the hole in the timing wheel.
Yes. This was very helpful. Thanks again for making this video. I just finished doing this a few minutes ago and while it was a little awkward, it can be done. You'll just need some patience. :-) My extension was too long but I was able to get the bolt out with a 19MM deep socket. The bolt is situated directly behind the hard A/C line shown in the video, holding the tensioner in the block at an upward angle. Tricky to get at but once you get the socket and wrench on it, it's pretty simple. Just be careful not to over-tighten the bolt, and it might be a good idea to put some oil on the new tensioner before you put it in place. Mine was nearly collapsed like Colton's was in the video so I'm glad I did this as a precautionary step. Good luck!
Thank you. I am currently working on my e39, I just finished an engine swap... now it's time for the m5 add-ons, paint and rims. I will send a video for this channel,
I really enjoy these E39source videos but I wish they would talk initially about the reason they replaced the part and maybe some of the symptoms they encountered that led to the replacement. As a new owner of an E39 and having researched thoroughly all of the problems, every little sound has me wondering if something is wrong or if it’s just a result of being a 17 year old car at this point. Anyhow, great video and thanks for sharing! It’ll come in handy when I need to take care of this on my own car.
This timing chain tensioner should be replaced every 8-10 years or 100,000 miles. It's cheap and easy and can prevent timing chain slack. This can quiet down startup and idle. But I wouldn't worry about yours unless it's really making a racket. These are loud engines that don't sound as good as they run up close and personal!
E39Source thanks for the quick reply! I wasn’t super worried as the original owner had all of the maintenance records from the beginning with the most recent (08/2017) showing the timing guides having been replaced. They only have about 12K miles on them so I’m hoping they last well into the foreseeable future. I intend on keeping the car until she won’t run anymore but a recent sound had me wondering if I needed to check on this. Most cold starts I hear a brief rattle that sounds almost like a quick chain slap or as some others have described like marbles. It’s really brief, no more than a split second but being paranoid and wanting this car to last long term, I want to take care of any preventive maintenance that I can to avoid any costly repairs. Thanks again for the great video!
I'm sure that's just the VANOS rattle, which is fine. If they did the chains/guides, I'm sure the tensioners were also done. You've got a solid car there!
I saw that you have krinkle paint on the valve covers. What brand paint did you use? How is it holding up and do you have a instruction video on painting them?
My God that is a beautiful car. My 2001 e46 has just started making some funny noises from the front of the engine (3.0 IL6) I think it is timing chain related.
+E39Source I have the "click clack" issue with my 2003 Land Rover Range Rover HSE which has a 4.4 BMW M62 Engine and am hoping a new Timing Chain Tensioner will solve the problem and give her a new breath of life. My concern is that it has been "click clacking" on startup for several months now, but it would stop making the noise several seconds after startup (it was just "click clacking" on the initial rotations I think); now, however, it is continuing to make that noise when I drive, essentially it sounds like an old diesel engine when I accelerate. I am sure it is something to do with the Timing Chain. So my question is, how bad was the noise leading up to this video where the Tensioner Replacement fix worked for you, did the noise persist while driving? How many hours do you estimate this repair took? And finally, I understand there is an upper timing chain tensioner, did you consider changing this? Excellent video, thanks!
How did you know that this tensioner has to be replaced ? I mean theres two lower tensioners and one upper.. I have a short rattle on cold starts and after some research its most likely that tensioner is bad.. btw. Thank you for all great work and uploads.. watching ur videos is very enjoyable! vehicle: 03 540iA 92k miles on it..
how do you know when the tensioner is not working. is there a way to check the tension of the chaing insitu. other than removal. how can we tell if the tensioner is gone?
Thank you for the info. I came here in search of what happened to my sealing ring. But, ..... Belly pan? Very clearly spoken and thorough but the nomenclature is lacking. I know this is so 3 years ago, but I would like to help the next guy. That is a 3/8 drive - 19mm - 6 point socket.
to give comment closure. for some reason my fuel pump died that same day I parked it to change the tensioner ( changed it while engine was warm) so I replaced the fuel pump after confirming I had zero fuel pressure :o. fired the car up and it started. :). except that it sounded like a huge can of marvels. and a vanos code came up. can't remember the code but it sounds like the vanos is stuck and it sounds like there is lots of chain slap .. although it seems to quite down and smooth out when I rev the car. so it seems that a guide and chain job is due for the car to sound right. so for now car is parked while I gather my parts and tools. I believe that the older tensioner was holding whatever plastic guide was left and by replacing it with a new tensioner it did more damage then good for 180k mileage car.
Timing chains have tensioners that keep the chain from flopping around. Timing chain tensioners are controlled with engine oil pressure and if the engine oil pressure becomes low for whatever reason, the oil driven timing chain tensioners will lose pressure and the mechanical engine timing becomes extremely erratic. Without proper tension on the chain its possible that damage can occur to your engine. Guides breaking, timing chain jumps, and valves bending. So if you haven't driven/started your car in over 2 weeks I recommend you pull out your tensioner and fill it with oil, check its resistance and reinstall it to prevent damage upon engine startup.
I would add oil if it needs it go about 85% max on the dipstick but do not overfill check it exactly 5 minutes after operation. I don't know about the noise you're having there is start up chain rattle which should go away. Then there is lifter ticking which can last for 15-30min if car hasn't started in a long time. Then there is vanos noise which will not go away unless repaired. I have checked and replaced my tensioner with a new one because constant start up rattle. I have checked the small oil pan which was leaking btw for timing chain guides and it was good. Now its my vanos and if chain rattle occurs and doesn't stop ill check the TCT if thats good I would assume guides are gone.
Is there any torque spec when we are tightening it back? I felt I over tightened it when I put it back because now there will be a rattling noise that will go away in 30 sec after I turn on the engine. The rattle noise comes out in such random time and there is no knowing when it will sounds. It doesn't make any noise at cold start, but on some warm start it would rattle occasionally.
@e39source nice video!! I seen your reply to Roman Moroz about the vanos. My 540i made a little knock for a long time on a cold start but lately it has been getting more louder and "vicious" I plan on changing the tensioner either way but is the knocking more louder still not a big deal though? Thanks
If just on startup, it's probably just the VANOS, I wouldn't worry too much. If at idle... check your oil level and thickness, that could be lifter tick.
It can help, but it won't avoid the issue all together. It will just tighten the chain up so it wears the guides more slowly, friction wise. Heat and age will still effect the plastic guides.
Mine mad a knocking noise and I took out the tensioner and it was compressed like your bad on would that have been causing my knock sound from the right valve cover
This won't eliminate the noise, just prevent excessive noise and help against bigger engine problems. Most of these engines have worn or broken timing chain guides, and VANOS rattle by now. You can tear the engine down and replace the chain guides, but I wouldn't bother unless it gets bad. VANOS noise doesn't effect anything.
Did the rattle at cold starts go away? Mine still rattles some times. Also is there a washer or gasket with this tensioner? Coincidentally I have developed a large oil leak.. need to find out if its from the tensioner. Thank you.
There is a washer with the tensioner that should be replaced at the same time. The rattle on cold starts is probably the VANOS, which should be serviced by Dr. VANOS.
@@E39Source thank you for the fast response. Yes I found out the hard way about the washer and fixed it. Should Iose sleep over the vanos like I do over the chain guides lol. Going to drop the pan soon to check.
I have the 2 books from Bentley publishers, one is mechanical and the other is electrical. Their more like giant tomes lol. I don't know if it's bad to over tighten, I did mine by the book and I have no leaks. I think it might be like that to not crack a cover, with mine off I felt like if I dropped one it would shatter.
oh, reading on when youdo an oil change, take the old filter, saw it in half and READ it, if there is metal or anything else in the oil. the filter will tell you i was field service for Cummins Engine Co, doing a filter read told uswhat was going on in the engine
Hello, My 540i still has chain rattle on cold starts. even after I replaced the tensioner. Also when it’s warmer out it doesn’t rattle. Any idea what I could do? Possible change my oil weight?
Are you sure that this is chain rattle and not some VANOS noise? If it is chain rattle, after installation of a new tensioner (if not installed backwards), then you could have damaged timing chain guides. This a common failure point on the 540i's M62 V8. Have you found any small broken pieces of plastic in the oil/oil pan? That's the way to know.
@@E39Source I picked up a 08/02 540i with 150k and it also rattles on cold start. It sounds more like a plasticky buzz sound for a second and goes away. Same sound as pulling the hand brake up quickly. P.O. isn't sure if his indy replaced the tensioner or not. Would it be safe to drive it in the meantime until replaced? Does vanos rattle sound like that? It also seems to have a weak low idle but no ses light. Thanks
Would you happen to have the gasket/washer part number that goes in between the tensioner and the timing cover? I replaced mine during a timing chain guides job, and had my timing covers cleaned up by a machine shop. I believe my washer is definitely missing and is causing an oil leak.
@@E39Source cool. Just replaced. Made an odd craking/slap fast noise when starting up. Pre loaded oil in it. Seeing if it does it again. Nope didn't do it. I swear it's a little quiter. Thanks for video.
I have 01 540 with 106k miles, 3 weeks ago I have replaced chain tensioner (bought the part from BMW Dealership), the brief rattling at cold start did not go away, any idea what could be going on ? Thank you
the tensioner needs to be primed with oil before install, they come pre primed but many times the oil will seep out with shipping or when decompresed by squeezing it, there is a small ring clip on top that holds the tensioner compressed (as shipped) that easily releases when squeezed and will cause the tensioner to spring to the extended position, this will also make it more difficult to install into the engine.
Its not a clip. Its a crush washer, just like the crush washer you find on the oil plug when you change your oil. It is necessary to change the crush washer on the oil drain plug just l like you will have to do on the tensioner. You can though, reuse the old crush washer but you may encounter a slight oil leak. ( MAY )
hey e39source, i just got a 540i/6 but ive been having some weird things happening on cold starts. Theres actually 2 problems, sometimes the car randomly shuts off on cold starts, and i have to be on the throttle for a while to keep it going, and then it runs good afterwords good. the second problem is that on cold starts the motor vibrates so much, almost as if it was a misfire, it shakes a lot, sometimes its even below 700 rpms, and it sound like the car wants to die, but it keeps going but theres no check engine light, and no misfire my scanner didn't pop up a misfire code. after the car warms up, the problems disappear, and the car runs very smoothly, what do you think it could be? the car has a custom intake on it, could it be that? -secondary air pump -or vacuum line leak -or vanos
Definitely not VANOS or secondary air pump. Could definitely be a vacuum line leak. The M62 V8 is such a problematic engine in this aspect though. Colton's car wouldn't idle when cold for a while either, usually after a loss of voltage from the battery. He solved it by letting the engine get warm, and then hold high RPMs for several minutes. Above 3,000. We never figured out WHY that fixed it, but it did. Continue at your own risk and ONLY on a fully warm motor.
So when the motor warms up, just hold the revs above 3k rpms for a couple of minutes, if I still have the problem, should I just replace the vacuum lines? What are some dude effects of revving the motor for a couple of minutes? Should I be parked, or moving when I keep the rpms up?
Karim nassef You can do it sitting still. Just don't do it if your fan clutch sticks and the car sounds like a school bus when you rev it. Vacuum lines would be a good thing to do to try to fix it, so would MAF. That should be done if its more than 50k miles old.
There are multiple timing chain tensioners on the 540i, but the one is easy to get to and usually the one that goes bad. The part number is 11311406261.
Karim nassef Colton is no longer a participant at E39Source, so we're not sure about the car. Last we heard it's no longer driving at about 245? miles.
Where did you get the part? My M62 Range Rover is starting to get a bit of a knock sound on startup every so often, and I'd like to attack it along with the non return valve.
How do you tell if these are bad because I can imagine if they go bad the chain slaps the guide rails decreasing its service life. My guides look alright the plastic piece has a purplish colour to it
The timing chain tensioner should be replaced every ten years or 100,000 miles. It's a cheap 'insurance policy' to help increase the guide lifespan. The guides should be replaced every 20 years or 200k minimum though. Slapping will be loud enough to call your attention. If you find pieces of chain guides in the oil pan, you should replace the chains, guides, and tensioners.
so just pull it right out and put the new one in right ? iv got a tapping noise people told me to change that first so thats what iv got to do. let me know thats mine is a 1998 bmw 740il non vanos
Remove the bolt, slide it out (may require some persuasion with a screwdriver or something) and then slide in the new one, replace the metal gasket (looks like a washer) and tighten up the bolt. Start up the car (loud rattle for 3 seconds) and then you should be fine if that was your problem.
It should be done after 10 years or 100k miles anyhow, they lose their ability to provide enough tension on the chain. It can quiet down an engine with chain slap, though.
Great job, Bro.I just bought a 2002 540i with 108k miles, No maintenance history or carfax.Really a gamble. First code after putting 1k is p0011.Replaced timing solenoid bank 1. Now pending the same code.I hope after watching your video , it will temporarily fix the issue.Thanks.
+laosfinest - Timing chains, guides, and tensioners would run you about $700-900 depending where you get the parts. Since its common, these are offered as kits. Next, you can send your VANOS units off, eBay Service, and get them rebuilt for $90 a piece. If you do the work yourself, for about $1,000 with coolant and oil, it could be done. The hardest part is getting the timing right, these are so picky getting that impulse wheel on the VANOS unit correct. Most BMW mastertechs take 2-3 attempts at timing it. Most places charge $300-400 to time it
ontheball247 - Rare. 20% of the time, its the piston chain tensioner. 80% of the time, its the VANOS unit seals worn down. You hear the helical gear chattering inside the unit
First , I want to know what is the mileage of your's 540i in this video? Second, I changed my timming chain tensioner at127k miles and the chain rattle gone at cold start just for 1 week of daily using . after that the rattle comes back again!!! I know the sound of the vanous so I am sure it is not the vanous. Do you have any idea about that? I am so appreciate. I
Colton's 540i had around 230,000 miles when this video was made. If the rattle came back so quickly, you could have timing chain/guide issues if those have not been replaced yet.
@@E39Source you know I discovered thing , when I come to start the engine I wait until the peep sound shut off (before engine running )and shut off the auto a/c ,start the engine and there is no rattling at all .what is your opinion?
@@E39Source thanks . so if it doesn't made rattle noise at cold start that means the guide is good? Does the m62 tu has hydraulic lifter because I hear a click click sound at the passenger side .what is the cause of that . I am so appreciate to your help.
@@user-lq9ry6me2n I think the M62 does indeed have hydraulic valve lifers. If you haven't driven it for a while, its normal for some to tap until warmed up and broken in again. Startup rattle is generally VANOS but can be bad chains/guides. If they are original, it is safe to assume that they need to be replaced. You often times won't hear symptoms of bad guides until it's far too late. You should check the oil pan for broken pieces of plastic.
Didn't work for me. The new tensioner rattled every time at cold startup. Put the old one back in and now no rattle maybe once a week or less at cold startup. Just my 02 cents.
Thanks for the info bro on how to change rhe tensioner. My e38 m62 tu has 178k and still running strong. Tried to change tensioner for preventive maintenance but like you said I must have got a defective tensioner.
just saying, it is a screw, not a bolt, bolts have nuts thanks for video though, I have same rattle, must getonto ebay find parts from UK, They are unaffordable in Australia
I changed the timing tensioner on my 2000 540i/6 .. now it just cranks but won't turn on. seems it messed up the timing on car.. turned on fine before that. just had the cold start rattle 90% of the time. :(.. anyone experience this?
No I was not started without the tesioner out. It had no codes it cranks fine. Just won't fire.. could I have messed up the cps sensor? I have killed my battery trying to start it. I will charge it try again. I even put back the old tensioner but it does the same thing. Checked all fuses for fuel pump and immobilizer just in case. :S
jimmy s Make sure that the CPS sensors are plugged in. The left one is near the tensioner. Otherwise I really can't think what would be cause the car not to fire and start.
BMW head technician's warning....it is possible the chain could jump when removing old tensioner. Now I'm not sure how, or under what conditions this could Happen though, since that's all he said. I'm currently trying to find out if it's important to do this procedure with the engine cold, or hot, or if it doesn't matter
540i has one of the ugliest engine covers in the history of cars. I don’t get why they did that when all of the other parts of the car’s design are nearly perfect
