Just completed this chore using this video. Order the Vanos crush washers and extra o-rings as suggested in this video. I tore no o-rings, but I could see how easy it could happen. And I did drop one Vanos crush washer so I’m glad I had 4 new ones. They really aren’t supposed to be reused. They compress. Good vid guys. Thanks.
Some tips ... Insert the coolant pipes into the engine first. Use plenty of vaseline on the o-rings and in the housing. Use a small block across the pipes to push them straight in. They should "click" into place. Rotate them a bit to ensure you have proper fit / alignment. Guide the thermostat housing into the water pump using your fingers and get it FLAT in place on top of the water pump. Then push back and align the three coolant pipes with the housing. Push straight back and move side to side ( L/R ) a few degrees. It should pop into place. Re-attach hoses. Top up coolant through the temperature sensor port. Use a pressure tester if you have one to make sure you have no leaks. Use Test.7 (KTMP) to ensure thermostat opens at temp. Car should not get over 89C
I plan on doing this, this weekend and will be taking the plenum off for better access. Bought extra o rings in case I rip one (or two). I guess I should buy those crush washers, I didn't even think to do that.
Excellent guide, I have a question. When you inserted the three tubes back, not the entire lengths are pushed in, correct? Middle part of those tubes are exposed on mine when I pushed them in. I didn’t notice when I pulled them out and I don’t have a before and after comparison. Appreciate it.
@@E39Source thanks for your reply, my car's back on the road again, no issues. Used Krytox lube on the new Orings as what good folks here have suggested. E39 self bleed is awesome. Keep it up guys, appreciate the shared guide and valuable info.
I'm not sure of the P code, as those are generic codes used with generic scanners and we have the BMW-specific tools these days. We had code 69, coolant temperature implausible with a sporadic check engine light for it.
I have never done those, but they may be difficult due to how tight things are up there. I'm sure there are DIYs online though, just not from us as of right now.
May be asking it at the wrong place, but has any of e39 source members did valve stem seals on their m62 engines? And how did it go and how much did it cost?
You mean valve seals, valve stems are on tires. I had the valve seals replaced on my S62 when it was rebuilt, but none of us have done them on an M62 or ourselves.
great video and channel , im planning on doing this as i get error code p0128 and my temp gauge stays between cold and middle but dosnt reach middle which is where it needs to be , and i also have a question . do having this issue cause my oil temp to go high all the way after driving the car for more than 20 minutes with couple pulls , i had the thermostat issue last year and my oil temp never got high , this year i redid vanos selenoids bank two then after i drove the car couple times my oil temp gets high all the way . thanks in advance
If the oil temp gauge is going all of the way up randomly, you have a bad oil temp / level sensor. It sits in the bottom of the oil pan. bit.ly/3b5ZjPd
