I just did this on my '12, thanks for the video. I have a couple of tricks that helped me. I supported the engine with a scissor type transmission jack that's on wheels. With a ratchet strap between the lifting eye and the driver's side ground lug, you can pull the engine to the driver's side after it's lifted off the mounts. This allows plenty of room to unplug and remove the sensors on the DPF. For the bleeping top engine mount arm bolt, the 16mm socket won't fit between the DPF and mount arm. But once the DPF is unbolted, if you take a 16mm socket on a 6" extension, it will drop right into the groove of the arm. Do this by starting at the front of the arm with the socket next to the block, then pull socket/extension back towards the back of the car between the DPF and arm. The socket has enough room if it's next to the block. I did this from the bottom of the car. One more tip, make sure the engine and subframe are all mounted before you attach the new exhaust to the downpipe/DPF. Hope this helps.
Can’t thank you enough for your video!!! I struggled with that hidden 4th bolt on the motor Mount bracket & would have given up had you not had this great video!!!! Afraid to say how many hours & cuss words it took me to get It off… but finally got it!
This is a very difficult job. Even with a lift it's tough. I did this job on jackstands. Passenger wheel off, remove fender liner so you have side access to the engine. Getting the EGR cooler off is a nightmare, especially with large hands. Almost every bolt needs some crazy set up to get to. Plus every bolt on my EGR broke. I didn't unbolt the drivers engine mount, but it would have probably made removing the passenger mount quite a bit easier. I dropped the subframe, forced in a spacer btwn the subframe and body with a pry bar and then raised the engine with some blocks of wood and a floor jack get the engine mount out. Engine mount arm was a nightmare and I needed to remove the DPF VBand to force a 16mm inbetween the motor mount arm and DPF from the side of the engine. This required two universal joints and extensions. The first time I actually saw the bolt was when it was out, you do this part entirely blind. Getting the DPF itself out will invariably break shit. It'll squeeze out once you've malformed the heat shielding enough. I've heard you can just take the shielding out. My Vband broke so I repaired it with my TIG and lathe. Somehow I got my downpipe on the vehicle from underneath by myself.
@@alexrichards5188 ok. Thanks. My swirl flaps still active. New intake manifold and valve cover. I do have strong exhaust smell. Will try deleting swirls. If smell persists then might be weak injectors.
Great video. I have some tips to share. After you lower the subframe, lower the motor couple of inches. This will give you extra room to lift the dpf out of the way to access the last motor mount bolt. All the roo. To get to that last bolt, after you lower the engine. Hopefully this saves someone some aggravation.
About to start this dpf delete and I been getting as much information before I get to this project.i appreciate woody's time to illustration and time to explain this job.i also ready the information from the others comments this is a nightmare to do and I am not looking forward to this job..
My son and I just tackled this project over the weekend on hid X5. This video gave me anxiety leading into the project. LOL!! A couple of things we did different. Remove passenger wheel and fender liner, it will give you access to some of the engine mount bolts. We only removed the engine mount, we did not mess with the subframe. We also removed the heat shielding which made a lot more room. We also found loosening up the DEF (precat) so you could move it around and out of your way helped a lot. The motor mount bolts were fairly easy to remove and install once we positioned the precat out of the way. I used a prybar to lift the motor mount bracket to the engine off the actual mount point. I tallied up the time suck, we spent 18 hours doing this. If we had to do it again, now knowing all the tricks we could cut a few hours off that time. Tools that were a godsend: We purchased come hose pinch off pliers to use on the coolant hoses. This minimized coolant loss. We also purchased a exhaust cut off tool which looks like pliers with a chain on them. I was amazed it worked so well, we made 2 cuts one to shorten the stock exhaust before we put it back in. A second to cut to size. Of course, have long extensions on hand, and some universal swivel attachments. Our only issue at this point is the Tunezilla module will not flash the UCE. We put the car on trickle charge overnight and hope that is the issue. We are also downloading the tune again hoping maybe it was corrupted.
Great video having a hard time with a exhaust back pressure code. Any common issues. Have cleaned metal pipe and checked for any clogs. Already replaced sensor. Any help would be appreciated
Mr. Woody, for a 2011 bmw x5 35d . Who /where do you get your down pipe and tune. This will be an off road vehicle. Great bid by the way. Also did you remove both egrs or only the lower one that is attached to the DPF. And lastly which sensors do you keep for the new down pipe. Thanks Patrick
Great video, I have a 2016 BMW X3 4cyl 2.0 Diesel and I want to delete the EGR and DPF, but I don't know where to get the replacement parts or a shop in Southern California. Any hints ?
The flexible tubing (4 of them) that is under the air filters that you moved out of the way for a better camera shot, what are they and what do they do
Hey Woody. I'm doing this project with a Tunezilla Tune. It's been a little difficult finding a good DIY on the details of the tune install. Specifically, does the SCR need to be removed and if so what parts? Love the video. Looking forward to seeing more content. Thank you,
What did you do for tune brother. I’m getting check engine lights for EGR bs, so I’ll prob end up cleaning it now and then removing it all. But what about the tune???
Hey, thank you for the video! Just finished mine. Just an FYI for anyone planning to do this job, you can get the DPF out without dropping the subframe. All your need to do is take the passenger heat shield off, and you can finagle the DPF out.
Please share more detail on your method of getting the DPF out. Do you have the car on the lift? Is it easy to take the passenger heat shield off. Did you encounter any other difficulties?
Just a thought and adding a bit of cross-professions process here, have u thought of “endoscopically” cutting up the DPF from inside the pipe? Sounds a bit bizzare I know but with the amount of small cutting, sawing and grinding tool around these days, cutting from inside out and removing section by section would seem Quicker and easier if u had the tools? Disclosure: primary profession used to be in endoscopic surgery on humans 🤣
Hey great video, doing the same thing also right now. I have everything back together, but I am not sure which of the 3 EGT spots the sensor should be plugged into now. Since there were 3, 2 on the dpf and 1 on the back of the egr. But the new down pipe only uses the main 02 and one egt sensor. You can see them in your video @13:34 I think its the one that is more forward and further out towards the passenger side? Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Followed it closely, but now wondering which - if any- sensor to screw in to the New Down pipe. It has a hole for one and a plug for another something. I unplugged all the DPF sensors and removed them, but have no idea how to identify the sensor I should put into the down pipe. Anyone help? Randy
I bought a E70 and got a hell of deal on it because the injector was seized in.........man oh man the pain a friend of mine had taking that out for me...
What type of wheels are you running here (size and specs as well)? Looks good. I would love to do this to my X5, but I got hit by a drunk driver and my back/body isn't what is used to be anymore. Anyone in Indy that can do this, lmk.
Hey everyone could somebody give me a little bit of help with getting that motor mount out I’ve removed every bolt (3 on the bracket and the 18mm on top) but I can’t seem to pry it out?
