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My BMW is inexplicably losing coolant, sometimes my right headlight doesn't work, my timing chain might explode and my HPFP is crashing. All business as usual then. Still waiting to see what's gonna happen this year...
yeah my thermostat is stuck open so i just let it idle for 10 mins while i get ready for work. been like that for over a year. Then again, i dont see very cold temps around my area.
@@KujezZi That's fine if that is how you warm up your vehicle. However, mine has never once had an issue in 80k km's of hard driving besides obviously the Thermostat. Until I run into issues I will continue the 10 minute warmup.
My thermostat was suck open for at least a couple of years in my E90 330i. The problem is that is didn't throw any fault codes and the car doesn't have any temp gauge. I only discovered the issue once i got a code reader and saw my coolant temps were way lower than they should of been... After replacing it the car ran better and I got better fuel economy. Great vid Ted!
I'm having the same issue on my E90 316i. There is no check engine light on, but a read done with a dedicated BMW scanner shows the code 002EF7 - Map thermostat, activation. Did your code reader show any errors? I saw there are "simple" code readers, which don't give you the specific error. I have one of those and the error format is different. I used it and it doesn't get that error 002EF7.
I had the same thing on my m3 so i changed the thermostat and inlet temp sensor while I was in there..easy job and no issues since...codes never came back
@@pistonpoweruk nah but Tedward says not much thought was given to the manual e92s, the engine was really meant for the smg. That’s why he opted for the smg
@@POVShotgun was actually replying to speedfanatic. @speedfanatic, drive a manual m3 and then a dual clutch. The s65 works great with the dct, the extra gear makes it easier to keep in the power band
If your thermostat is stuck open it's really not a huge deal. Yes, it's probably not a good idea to be going full throttle all the time, but the whole "sucking fuel" thing is nonsense. I have 3 cars and one of them is an older 2011 335i convertible which I only drive on sunny weekends, and it currently has a thermostat which is stuck open. I've noticed very little difference in terms of fuel economy and it's been broken for 4-5 months.
I think this was one of the next replacements I had to do on the M3. However the new owner has had zero issues. Good point on the oil temp, that oil is like molasses when cold.
I could see water temperature in my e60 535, You had to go in a submenu and you could read the temperature off. Must be possible also on a e9x platform
My M5 is doing this as well, it started out a few years ago only happening whenever it was well below freezing, but now generally happens any time it’s below 40-45 degrees. Will probably get it replaced this year, although hasn’t really affected anything else apart from the annoying CEL.
Both my e92 m3's warmed up to the same oil temp as you..winter time it's slightly lower than 210 and summer slightly higher than 210..nothing to worry about there.
Yes!!! this problem happened on my car too! AND it is stuck slightly opened XD I checked water temp via secret menu in the cluster while driving on a highway, it never goes up to 75C and lowest was 65C but oil temp were fine. around 80C~90C It never gave me any code but today was raining and a bit cold outside It threw "Increased Emission" warning at me XD I was wondering about water pump is going to be replaced or not since I saw this video, I'm going to pass this time thanks for all these info!
I don't have any codes but it feels like it takes a long time to warm up, then again I hit the highway pretty quick from my home so..... hard to tell. Struggles to for temps to rise once it gets to the dot but that's about when the OEM one should open anyway I think to let coolant flow? I bought a new thermostat that opens like 10 degrees hotter but have not installed it because not sure if that's a great idea, but some people swear by it because faster warm up better fuel economy.
On the 530d e39, this summer I suspected the thermostat to do the same not closing fully, the car was longer to warm up but once fully openend, solid 12 o'clock temp gauge, but I was suspicious. I ordered the thermostat with a water pump (plastic turbine, I broke one on my 325tds last year). During fall, the temp was just over the 1/4 mark, except in traffic or in city (and was going really cold during big downhills). Just to wait a week or two, I covered barely a half of the radiator with a piece of cardboard being cautious not to cover the turbo intercooler of course. It worked great, back to solid temps. Then I changed all this stuff, and cleaned the fins because man they were loaded with crap ! Back to almost new now (155k mi)
@@TedwardDrivesAha I bet, technically speaking, if done wisely and correctly the cardboard trick works well during winter (it's just manually resizing the cooling capacity to the winter temps). I also removed the top rad panel to let air escape (don't remember how the e92 is built though, my dealership years are far now 😂)
I’m too used to modern diesels that refuse to heat up while idling in cold climates. Once you put load on the engine though they eventually heat up, but slower than gas because the engine block is thicker and I think they run cooler at light loads because the fuel mixture is so much leaner.
I was gonna put a heating pad thing on my oil pan but worried that it may do funky things to metal if it’s localized heat. Would be nice to get some heat in the oil before starting though
You can actually read the coolant temperature sensor right off the dashboard, you have to hack into the digital display. It's not very hard. You hold down the odometer reset button for 20 seconds. Google the hack it'ss easy.
@@TedwardDrives after you're in, you have to go to 19, it will say "Lock on" and you have to enter a number. The nunber is the sum of the last 3 numbers of your Vin (I might have that part wrong). Everything is done using the odometer trip reset button and pauses. After you unlock the computer (it's only temporary until you turn off your car) it will take you back to 1. To read coolant temp you have to go to channel 7. There's a lot of information available, even lifetime hours on the car, battery voltage, airflow meter readings. Most of it is difficult to understand
Troyjeup has his mentions on what oil/ thermostat to run on these cars. Interested in knowing if you've heard of him or any other the Redline 5W-50 suggestions for optimal engine conditions.
I got the 2B59 code, as well as both pre-cat O2s; codes 2771 and 2772. I have no CEL or SES, but my car is running like a total pig. Sounds like thermostat still?
I really want this carrrrrrrrrrrr but first I need to get a license, then find a job that I actually need the car (I work a block away from home lol) nyc struggles
What's the temperature been like there that there's no more snow on the ground? I swear, I think Wisconsin is the only place that has winters anymore with snow from December-March and my cars hate it.
Yo T, have you ever had a chance to test drive a Giulia Quadrifolio? Im curious about your opinion, especially the comparison to the M3 and even maybe to even more expansive Porsches like the current 992 4s. So many people say how fun the Giulia Quadrifolio is. I wonder if it is indeed as fun as they say and maybe even more fun than a Porsche. Thx!
Yeah it's great. I've put about 60k miles on this. They have some weaknesses like rod bearings and throttle actuators but the driving experience is unmatched for the money because of the engine.
Wait... your engine is almost up to temp in 10 minutes with a beginning to fail thermostat? My coolant isn't even warm after driving 10 minutes let alone my oil, and i have a Volkswagen 1.6FSI.
10w60 is recommended unless you’re consistently starting the car below zero Fahrenheit. That’s pretty rare here. Lots of loud people on forums like to take unnecessary action and believe they’re protecting their engine.
@@TedwardDrives I run Redline 5w50 all year round in my s65 post BE replacements. It warms up a tad faster, and never goes above 210 even in the summer stop and go situations. Chicagaland temps for reference.
Hello mate I was driving my M3 yesterday and before it got warm its came up with a message stating that i should pull over and let it cool down. Any ideas of what could cause this?
@@TedwardDrives thanks for the reply. I checked it the car and it came up with the code 27B8 DME fan activation. The fan is not working causing the car to over heat any ideas of what could cause the fan not to work the temp sensor seems to be working fine
Proud of you for not picking up an assault and battery charge after that! Sansossio Auto Couture in Natick, and Mikes Autobody in Malden are both great. Tell em I sent you and they should take care of you.
They do a yearly subscription for all of the features. If you were planning to code your car for certain features this unlocks all of that (and probably cheaper than someone would charge). But the real benefit for me is all of the bmw codes when it throws a check engine light
idk whats wrong with my e46 M3 but its on its 2nd thermostat and I figure it will need a third this summer. A couple summers ago it was overheating so I had the thermostat replaced. (it was both over heating and under heating once it should be at operating temp and warm) well that fixed the issue for about a year before it started under heating again, and a month later the over heating. Last summer I had enough and replaced the thermostat and the water pump this time. Within a weeks time it under heats again. Most of the time its fine or hardly noticeable (the dial being ever so slightly to the left of the center line) but sometimes its noticeable. anyone have any similar experience?
when the car is cold...like absolutely cold...you can start it and open the radiator to see if there's flow (meaning the thermostat is inappropriately open). I'd put my money on a failing water pump but I also don't know for sure.
@@TedwardDrives thanks for your response. it shouldnt be a failing water pump because the water pump is oem bmw and less than a year old as is the thermostat. im stumped.
@@TedwardDrives BMWs are known for eating waterpumps on a regular basis. The water pumps in teh E36 and E46 were known to go out every 65k miles or so. The electronic waterpumps in the E90/92 non-m3s die an expensive death. Some have theorized it is programmed to die after a set number of operational hours. Those new cost about $500 whether turbo or naturally aspirated cars. I forgot that the M3 retained a mechanical waterpump so the replacement costs are actually lower than teh non-M cars. I'd replace it if I were you
@@TedwardDrives I've had a couple BMWs (non-M) and a BMW powered Mini as well and they all have had periodic water pump failures. I would change that pump while you have someone in there because if not you are going to have to go back in there and pay double labour not if but when it fails. IJS
