Hey, these instructions were awesome; thank you. I did my first ever brake pad change and it went off without a hitch. I noted down these steps to guide me, they may be useful to others: Loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir Take off wheels Front pads: Punch out brake caliper pins Detach brake wear sensor (I tied mine off) Back pads away from rotor Remove caliper (being sure it is secured so it doesn’t hang from brake line-use bungee to hang, or a box or bucket to support) Pull pads out of caliper Replace pads in caliper and slide over rotor Re-attach bolts, torque to 110 NM/81 ft/lb Replace pins Rear pads: (You can having parking brake on to do calipers, but it has to be off to change rotor) Punch out pin on top Pull off the spring clip Punch out bottom pin Spread pads away from rotor Slide pads directly out (don’t need to remove the caliper) Put new pads in Place in lower pin, tapping into place Slide spring clip in place Start the top pin, slide the spring clip behind, then tap pin into place Replace cap on brake fluid reservoir If removing the rear caliper, will need to get an E16 head to remove bolts, torquing them to 110nm, 81 ft lbs torque wheel nuts to 130 NM/104 ft/lb
Congrats on the smooth and successful swap! I did make one error, and that was with a metric conversion. The wheel bolt torque is 140Nm (I accidentally said 130Nm), however the ft-lb spec is correct (104).
Fantastic step by step! I'm glad I watched it because I was about to pull the front caliper off the knuckle adapter with the torx bolts. Also your car is absolutely spotless! Mine has 11,000 miles on it (swapping to track pads) and I try to keep it very clean but mine looks like a 100,000 mile car compared to yours!
Excellent video, very detailed, and easy to follow. I will use this for when it's time to change out my M2C pads and rotors. Looks like you already caught an error based on a reply but in case someone else doesn't see it - the torque spec for the lug bolts is 140 NM (the ft-lb spec is fine).
Thank you sir just followed along to do this install my self and it all went perfectly. Literally had 0 experience working on any car before this and you made it all a breeze.
Great video! Thanks for all the knowledge you put out. As usual content that is extremely relevant and helpful. Here is to hoping new pads fixes the no bite issue!
Thanks for video, now I finally made my mind to replace my 2nh front caliper, the design is so anti-humanity. It is probably the most heavy 6-piston on the planet, and It doesn't fit any 18 inch and lots of 19inch wheels, now you tell me I have to remove it everytime I want to swap new pads. lol.
Lucas Sganderlla you save money in the long run, 1 you have access to smaller wheels and tires,2 cheaper and more easily to change pads, 3 you can sale the 2nh, those money might be enough to cover your new brake kits
Great video and clear explanation! In older cars, one had to worry about air getting into the brake lines, leading to the need of brake bleeding. Does one have to worry about it here? I am weary about touching the brake fluid lines. Thanks!
Thanks for the video - did you need to replace your carrier caliper bolts on the front calipers or did you use the same ones? Any loctite required on them?
@@FaRKle0079 thank you - it is common to re-use these carrier caliper bolts but the BMW spec guide is that they are 'stretch'/torque-to-yield bolts and should not be re-used. Hence my suggestion for loctite when re-using them regardless - it seems unreasonable that the bolts would need to be replaced every time they are removed! For sake of keeping to spec I renewed my bolts recently when installing my brake cooling kit, your video was very helpful as part of that process so thank you again!
Great video mate, I have a question though: are the bolts for the front caliper one time use bolts, or can these be reused? Timestamp 09:55. Thanks in advance
How easy was it to spread the brake pads/push the pistons back in using the single piston brake pad spreader? Also, did you have to work it a few times at the top and bottom of the calipers? From the video it looked like you were intending to do that (since the spreader can't clear the fixed bridge of the caliper). I will be changing out my brakes soon and wasn't sure if a single piston spreader or a 4-piston one was needed for the fronts (despite being 6-piston). This will be my first time changing Brake Pads myself but given how frequently I will be doing this (with track days and such...) doesn't make sense to pay someone else...
You're right that I did do the top and bottom separately due to the fixed bridge, but it's not too difficult. Since the pad itself is levering on all the pistons it'll still move the pistons further away when the spreader is on the one side. I didn't do each side more than once. Just enough so that I could slide the caliper off of the rotor.
@@FaRKle0079 thanks to the pointers in this vid, was able to swap out the brake pads myself. Loved the fact that you had all the torque specs and really good camera angles so I was able to follow along rather easily. Thanks!
@@FaRKle0079 lol thanks. Still learning how to work on the car and the cars dynamics (went to one track day). Congrats on your ride as well and love the color (mine is HS, but SO is a really nice choice). Hope to see you at the next HPDE!
The BMW CCB rotors and pads will fit this brake kit. The servo unit is a bit different though so the braking won't be exactly the same as a car optioned with the CCBs.
What are the rear pad size? Is there a PAGID shape number? Most brake web sites still reference the smaller caliper brake pads. Would like to replace with a ceramic pad.
Rear pad shape is Pagid 1287 (and Ferodo 1281). You can see more mfg pad shape codes that are the same here: www.ferodoracing.com/ecat/code/car-racing/brake-pads/FCP1281.
For the blue Brembo calipers BMW recommends using a bit of paste on the piston and sliding contact surfaces, but for the grey Brembo competition brakes BMW says not to. Kind of confusing right?
@@stvnchng4755 yeah, just where the pistons make contact with the back of the pad. I'd opt to avoid grease on your calipers if tracking though since most won't stand up to the heat. If you find a high temp one though, go ahead.
Have you found any other alternative brake pads that produce less dust? I swear after a detail, I drive to the gas station and when I come back, my wheels are caked in dust. Annoying.
@@USMC_LAterZ I'm pretty sure EBC makes their Redstuff pads for the M2C, and Carbotech 1521 are good options. I have GLOC GS-1 pads for the street in my AP kit (supposedly the same as the 1521), but I won't order anything from them again after poor customer service (they shipped me the wrong pad and took over a month to get me the correct ones).
You're right that you can remove the caliper that way (and it's easier), but BMW instructs people specifically not to do it that way, and I've been unable to find a proper torque spec for when you reinstall those bolts. If I found out why BMW doesn't want people to do it that way and the proper torque spec I'd be better able to judge the risk and maybe tell people to do it that way instead.
BMW explicitly says in their procedures not to use grease for these calipers. Plus under track driving grease just dries up/gets burned up anyways and leaves a mess.
@@FaRKle0079 i was just curious from an engineering standpoint of why not using grease. I guess it’s just for the track driving as you said. Interesting
@@whizkid235 Grease can also gum things up if there's not enough clearance built in. The stock pads have a shim around them, and those surfaces on the sides that bracket the pad have a smoother finish, so grease might constrain movement instead of lubricating and allowing the pad to move like it usually does in other designs.
Mine got destroyed because they become one after 100k 😂.but how do i unplug the old one completly next to the sensor connection? Is it somehow difficult? Im still waiting for the order to be delivered
I can do my own brakes on this mofo very easily... but I can't believe how expensive the genuine M rotors are to replace. It's fucking crazy how much they are just for the front! OEM is the only way in this scenario.
I’ll never understand with how track focused these cars are supposed to be, they didn’t design it where you can change the front pads without taking the caliper off. One of the things I miss about my sti, pad changes were so simple and now it’s gonna take twice as long
