BMW N62 V8 Engine Problems - SAVE IT - Don't fix later! 

Very kind of you Carlos!

Same here I had en e46 330xi and did the maintenance items it was a solid car after

Thanks, glad it worked!

Glad to help as always!

Glad you enjoyed it

You can do it!

Couldn't agree more!

Thanks Robert, and you're doing the right things!

That's very kind of you, thanks!

Thanks Alvin!

Thanks Sunny - and hello from the UK - but, a very Canadian area of the UK. We have old WWII camps here named Eire, Ontario and Superior!

So nice of you!

Glad you enjoyed it

Yes, is that the one on Bimmerforums? If not, that will be the second one

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation yes Timm that’s the one i posted on bimmerforums, what a low life’s, also I met up with Rupert and we done my gearbox service oil and filter change and she is in a great shape now love driving every second of her. Thanks for the community you have created and helping many people like me mate wish you all the best 🙏🏼

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks!

Thanks, will do!

Glad it was helpful Leaonel!

Glad I could help!

Always my pleasure!

Thanks!

This stuff is amazing.

Thanks!

And 600mm drill is on its way to me this week 👌🏻

It's long life formulated oil. What's the problem with that? I've had a 2.5 straight 6 N52 engine in a BMW e89 Z4 which is 15 years old. I've had the car for 8 years and it's never given me a problem. The car has only had its routine services once every 2 years. You've obviously never had a BMW.

Good man!

Thanks!

Glad I could help, but don't blame me!

Thanks Donnie, very kind of you!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Mr Timm i have 08 bmw 650i , I purchased one tube Forte , still see smoke after idling. Should I put another tube and oil fortifier too see what happen

@@donniebeasleyjr5911 First plan is always to change the PCV's - easy and reasonably quick: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yy_Vzir5xco.html

Thanks, and always my pleasure!

I agree - it just seems that the general consensus on RU-vid is that they go wrong all the time, and they don't!

Yes, that's a good idea, quite a few have done this!

It's always my pleasure!

Go on Simon, you know you want to!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation LOL! I can't resist it,the design of the chassis,wonderful paint finish,and that lovely petrol V8.....these cars are great.I'm not looking forward to cars going electric.

Thanks for the comment and keep it up!

Wow, thanks!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation what oil do you recommend that has plasticides

@@JaelRyan it says to use 5w/30 but if you have a higher milage one use 5w/40. I used Castrol but found it didn’t dissipate heat vary well so I switched to Liqui Moly and noticed a big difference. It has the anti wear against in it. I use the green oil. But it’s up to you but just research it first before going to it. Good luck!

Good thing for the warranty

Yes, good points there!

Thanks Nakash!

I did seals, solenoids (cause I had bad reverse, bit slow) and a reset. Gear changes are smooth as.

@@warboyrb where do you buy solenoids from

Thanks, I have done a video on Maintenance, have a look through my video's on How to keep it perfect for ever'

You're very welcome!

That's very kind of you!

Thanks David, yes getting cheaper these days and not the end of the world if they do fail.

Glad you think so!

Hey do you have link for that solenoid

Well worth a go with the Forte seal conditioner, 3 tubes for the 4.8Ltr engine! I just use one can of the Wynns

Thanks for the info Jonathan!

Thanks, that's my plan!

My pleasure Doc! The chain tensioners don't usually need changing, they are very robust compared to those on the M62. The only time I would change them is if there was varnish everywhere in the engine - but if the engine has been looked after then no need.

I would certainly go and look at it and leave it idling for a while - you could well have found a good one - and Thanks!

Thanks James, where do you work in Petersfield? Start-up noise could be a few things - leaking 1-way valve in the canister, knackered chain-tensioner or dying Vanos units (if you have an M62TUB). I show the 1-way valve in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8qBfJSINMJM.html

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Yes I think we’re narrowing it down to the canister valve…It’s my dads car and he has made an ingenious temporary solution where a switch under his seat turns off the fuel pump so that when he turns the ignition, the oil pump has time to get the oil everywhere before he then turns the fuel pump on again and it starts with no noise. Trying to find a new oil filter housing assembly now. I’m a music teacher at Churcher’s College. My dad had an Alpina B12 (E38 and E31 actually) back in the day so I love those things!

Thanks! I'm using Wynn's only at the moment

Yes, I agree with the change of thermostat to 88C or 90C - but leave the cap as it is

My pleasure! I'm a C+ programmer as well!

Thanks and glad you like it!

Great news Joshua!

Thanks! I'm glad to report that the Teak Oil and Maguires seems to have done the trick!

Well done, that's the spirit!

Thanks from the UK! Best way to find out is to use realoem.com - bung in your VIN and then locate the vacuum pump. If you click on the part number it will list all of the models that part is used on.

Four-grand is so over-the-top for that job, it is classed as DIY and should cost no more than $500 - find someone else who's a bit keener!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Wow! No kidding?? That's incredible. I was told that they have to tear down the engine to get to the pipe so it's "labor intensive"... I watched a couple videos of people doing the job and I couldn't tell because of the editing and time-lapse, etc... so do u think I can find a private party or different independent shop to do it cheaper? (Any tips or suggestions for my search?)?

I had a look on Amazon but could not find it - try the search "forte seal conditioner usa" in your web browser and you should find a supplier....

'It's not a Honda Civic' is the best way to put it!

Thanks for your message!

You will be fine with 5W40 - I use 0W30 to lessen the valve noise on the over-run. No idea if you can combine multiple additives - probably no one else will know either! As far as Coolant, you can't really tell, so best to drain and refill it needs changing every three years or so anyway

Good man. hope it goes well!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I didnt even get that far. Opened the hood and the entire right side of the engine, the valve cover and the valve cover...uhh cover was soaked in fresh oil and you can see where it sprayed up on the hood. The oil was clean at least 🤷‍♂️ Anyway I said nope and walked away lol. For the price it was at I was not expecting to see that.

Only direct from BMW - but use the oil I recommend and you will be fine with yearly changes

Mine does the same Igor - so I guess it is normal behaviour!

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks Timm!

Well, only speaking for myself, yes they always have a leak somewhere - and unless it is somewhere that is causing damage (like getting oil into the alternator) I don't really mind as long as it is pretty small!

Thanks and good to hear from you! The correct plugs are BKR6EQUP - these can be bought anywhere with loads on Ebay!

Hello Maria, yes, the ZF box requires the replacement of the Mechatronics seal - and that should sort out your harsh changes.

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation will get that done soon then. thanks for quick response

Thanks for the info, great stuff!

Just exploded my upper radiator hose last week from the joint and waiting for the new to arrive. Quite common part to fail and should be changed if not done in while.

Jesse Salmi similar happened to me a few weeks back. Spent the morning detailing the car, headed out on a road trip with the Mrs.. Got on the interstate and accelerated hard to cross lanes and lost power. Windshield was freckled with water droplets so I knew I blew a hose. Exited the interstate and found the top radiator hose split in half at the plastic connection. Luckily I had a few assorted hose clamps in the boot. No tools though...so used the wife’s tweezers to tighten the clamp. Let the car cool down roadside. Then limped a few miles to the auto parts store to refill the coolant enough to get me home an additional 2 miles. Ordered the new OEM hose on Amazon and replaced it in 10 minutes. It was a crap day but it could have been a lot worse...better yet it could have been prevented had I replaced the hose at 100k miles. Ps...small metal hook tool and extra long flathead screw driver to pop the clips made the job a piece of cake.

Time to check your engine mounts - when they fail the engine will pull hoses off under harsh acceleration!

I also accelerated hard when the hose popped off.

Thanks Scott, your car has the N63, and I have no experience of that engine - but the things you have listed are a sensible precaution!

They do!

Mine ended up bein the valley pan (545i) but i ended up replacin secondary air hoses as well as the pan

No need Villa, just change the oil every year and there will be no need for it.

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks a lot, Timm!

The way forward from here is INPA as described here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6LWXmz6Ef_M.html

Cat clogged

Glad it was helpful!

​@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I have taken photos of two different U-shaped deflection rails that I've replaced on an E38 and E39 M62TU and M62TUB engines. The 740i had a small piece of plastic lost from deflection rail when I replaced it at 100K miles from an engine run mostly on regular petroleum oil (from the previous owner). That rail was definitely in need of replacement since it was at the beginning stage of breaking up. For the E39 540i I ran on Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic since I bought it (at least 1/2 of its life I estimate) and it showed hints of deterioration of the plastic rail at 120K miles. Both examples showed highest deterioration at the bottom of the U-shaped apex where I think stress from the chain is highest. The other two rails showed some surface wear but no hint of damage. I thought you might find this information of interest, Timm. Anyway, I believe heating and cooling cycles do take their toll on what is a naturally brittle insert used on the deflection rail as well as the quality and regular changing of of the motor oil used.

They are!

It is certainly worth reducing the base temperature - and 85C - 90C is perfect

1 Tube per 2-litres engine capacity - so for the 650i I would go with three.

Good tip!

Yes, absolutely, especially if you have a bit of smoking!

£200 isn't bad at all, drop-links can be very simple - but they can be a bear to get off sometimes!

Yes, they are always clean! All explained here: ru-vid.com/group/PLWGHEh2noHgEvZuamaoWEuNvHa3T3vvhM

Try saying 'stem seals' 50 times in a row!

If u already did oil gaskets well too late for my advice but from my own experience i wish i would have taken the whole engine out and reseal the whole thing including valve seals and secondary air buildup rather than deal with each item as ir came up, probably would have been cheper

I think the leads plus the interference suppressors is around 5K Ohms - so not far enough out to worry about.. Rotor arms and distributor caps is the next on the list.

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks! The rest is showing 5,5-5,6Ohm and 5,8-6,0Ohm. Still okay you think? Rotor arms and distributor caps already replaced.

Yeah I changed my rotors and caps. Makes a massive difference, stick with oem every 15000 miles

Thanks Rich!

Here you go Paul: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Aw9w7Jrgm9c.html

Yes, this is your man - the last naturally-aspirated V8!