Great video, thanks enormously. You saved me $200 and probably a week of down time. I had heard the sensors went out, but no explanation why. My wiring was falling apart at the connector and stranded me Sunday evening. Less than 48hrs and using stuff I had in the shop already I was back riding today (Tuesday). Will be sharing this video.
Thanks for the info just about to take mine to bits and its nice to see what I be geting into before the tools come out. I would however prefer better wire for longevity if posable would like never to have the same problem ever agen.
Hi, thanks for sharing this, I found mine to be exactly as you said, that is insulation had turned to dust but only the last few inches close to the plate. Anyway rewired as instructed and it started first time!
I had a 1976 V12 Jaguar that used a hall effect sensor in the distributor. It would start up fine and run fine until the engine got really hot meaning running temperature or a hot running temperature. I would pack a bag of ice around the distributor to keep it running. So yes, I could see a bad hall effect sensor causing the bike to shut off once the sensor got heated. Keep in mind that our bikes use an upper and lower sensor; I'm not sure which is which but one triggers the ignition and the other triggers the fuel injection. So when your bike sets off you could test the spark but make sure it's grounded properly, or you could pull the wire off of either of the fuel injectors and put a noid light into it and see if that flashes when you crank the engine. You can rent a noid light set from AutoZone for $25, and get your money back when you return it. And now you learned about noid lights lol!
Very bad soldering practice. ALWAYS twist the wires together first to get a solid mechanical connection before you solder. (I'm an Electronics Engineer and have been soldering for over 50 years.) Your static shield is not very effective. Should have a braid wire completely covering other wires. Finally a long piece of heat shrink is far more effective physical shield than wraping using electrical tape.
Basically I agree with your comments, but the way he soldered is fine because there's no strain. I like twisting better. And yes regarding the shield, but not so easy to come by. I've seen people use aluminum foil and etc but I also read on a BMW motorcycle forum that later models they omitted the shield completely. Just FYI.
Thanks mate. Just the information I needed to find. No spark on my K75, fitted new Hall and still no spark, but cable between Hall plug and ICU looks warn so I'll try your method as everything else on the bike tested good.
@Nilsfried Hi, Yes a long story cut short; the previous owner took bike into dealership with no spark issue and they soldered the brown Hall into the ground harness. Professionally done why it took a lot of finding.
BMW wiring diagram shows those wires as being 0.5 mm diameter. That's for the conductor only. 0.52 mm is equal to 20 gauge. So, the answer to your question is 20 gauge wire. I suggest multi-strand not solid. Stranded is more flexible and also will solder better / more solidly.
Ohhhh yes there is Really fancy Special tools for this backyard so-called hall sensor replacement job and that is the electronic engine timing set device after fitment of the new sensor & the Engine lockout Dowl pin , too simply do this Job properly. I'll take a chance and watch this but most likely will be deleting it because at the very beginning you spew how moronic your method is. Period
