Hall Effect Sensor Replacement & Installation 

Hi Doug. You have been an absolute life and money saver. Purchased a 2000 R1100RTP (Ex-California Highway Patrol Bike) with 65K miles 3 months ago that needed work. LOVE THIS BIKE! However, I made the HUGE mistake of taking to my local BMW dealer the first time to have my ABS modular replaced at $100 an hour. I'm embarrassed to say what that cost me. Since then, thanks to your videos, I replaced my fuel pump and filter, brake lines, oil change, spark plugs, air filter, and repaired bad fuel readings on instrument gauge as well as the fuel empty light. My HES will be my next project since I just died on the side of the road yesterday. Thank goodness I was only 1/2 mile from home. The bike was a bit intimidating at first since I have never worked on motorcycles before, but now the more I work on it the more I want to work on it. Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos. Going to need brakes soon. Any Videos available?

Hey I’m broke down 300 miles from home give or take a few miles and had to pay for a tow. I’m 43 and have been riding since 4 years old, I never would have figured this out without your video. Thanks so much!!!!

7 years later...I still watch you video when a "new" Oilhead enters my stable. They all have bad HES wires.

Doug, because of you I managed to replace the HALL sensor. You specifically mentioning the position of the wheel on the pully did it! Thank you so so much!

You don’t need the timing box. Once the ignition triggers the fuel pump turns on momentarily. Find the positive wire for fuel pump on the connector and hook up a trouble light to it. By rotating the timing plate while on tdc the positive fuel pump pin will get power when the he’s is in the firing position. Pretty easy. I got that info on adv rider.

Thank you for this video. I replaced my HES after watching you do yours. I really appreciate the time you took to do this step-by-step and clearly explain what you did.

Thank you very much. Installed a new hall sensor on my ‘93 R1100RS last weekend and with your help it was easy and fun to do!

FYI - Not common but perplexing - after installing and tensioning the new alternator belt I had a loud slap noise from the alternator. It turns out the upper nut can be tight on its bolt, but the bolt itself can be loose in the spacer it's located in (behind the alternator) leaving the alternator loose. Loosen top nut, tighten top bolt from behind (not difficult to access with the tank off), re-tension the belt as per instructions, and presto. Thanks to BMWMOA Oilhead forum wizards for this tip, which I never would have caught myself.

Thanks for the link! I appreciate your efforts to educate owners who wish to maintain their bike themselves.

Great video Doug! Only wish that you had included the moment when you started the bike! That was the crowning touch after all that work.

Thanks a lot fopr that video, I'm in the process to change my Hall effect sensonr and I come back and forth to the video when I can't get to the next step of the work... Hopefully I'll be successful soon and ready ro tide again !

Don't know if you are still monitoring this page, but as with your ABS rebuild, your information helped me do this job. Thanks.

Your videos are invaluable to me. Thanks for showing us how to work on BMW's !!!

This might be helpfull. 1. Disconnect and insulate the battery ground lead (IMPORTANT) 2. Remove the existing hall sensor (refer to BMW repair manual) 3. Install TDC pin to lock the flywheel to the clutch housing (EME Part # BMW-TDCpin) 4. Set the hall-effect timing position using a hall tester Part # EDL-MiniHT-R277 - LED must be triggered at TDC 12V LED can be used between orange wire and ground/brown wire. 5. Connect the battery ground lead 6. Switch on the ignition but do not start the engine 7. Open the throttle fully twice - this will synchronize the motronic control unit with the new hall sensor

although I'm many years behind here...I love the "Tupperware" term! classic! thanks for sharing!

2 questions please: 1- Why did you remove the spark plugs ? 2- If I mark the position of the HES unit & reuse my old one (after I rebuild it) and place it back in the same exact position, do I still need to set the timing with the Gizmo light unit that you have ? I mean if I mark the position of the unit and place it back in the same exact location, why do I need to reset the timing ? Thank you.

I bought a new HES sensor like yourself but was hoping not to have to make the timing tool.. Is there any other way to set the timing with a multimeter?

Good idea to get this done as preventative. My 1997, 90k miles is disabled 1200 miles from home. Got no manual, got no tools, waiting a week for parts.

Thanks for this. I have an R 1200C and needed to check the timing. Good primer.

right, off to go do this now, don't have a timing-setting tool but i just tried on the bench and with a car battery and a voltmeter i can also correctly see when the hall sensor is giving a 1 or a 0 signal, it's a bit less graceful but it'll do.

Thanks for the video. Now I have an appreciation of what's involved.

Hi Doug.Fabulous instruction for Hes replacement.Correct me if I'm wrong but you mentioned the TDC light on your timing box should go off then tighten down. Your TDC light remained on. Little confused and need all the help I can get.Philip (Ireland).

Hi there I did it for my first time and everything worked perfect thank you so much

Thanks for the video. May I ask, would it be difficult to rewire the HES so as to avoid having to buy a new one?

Hi doug, i like your video but there is one question. The timing box has 4 wires wich i have to connect to the motor but wich one to wich one ?????

Thank you for this video! I have to replace the stupid Hall sensor, so it helped a lot! Many thanx!

Both LED lights (tdc and 180) are lit in the timing box when i connect it to the bike trying to set the timing. Lights wont go out no mattet what i do, but stay lit. What do i do wrong?

Sadly RU-vid has out-lived our motorcycles and Radio Shack. I'd like to get that PDF, but it is no long available on the Illinois BMW Riders website. Good video. Guess that's what I get for getting an old bike.

Just installed a new hall sensor plate on my single spark 1150 and made up a timing box of the same design. Initially I scribed the location of the old plate and installed new to those marks. It did fire up initially and ran on idle and revved it in neutral with no mishaps and switched engine off thinking to myself, great job. Trouble is and still in the garage, it won’t fire up again. So, regarding NOT using the ‘timing box’, it is fair to say that just adjusting the plate from original plate marks even 1mm either side makes a big difference in starting issues? I will edit this reply if the timing box with plate adjustment makes a difference to my bike starting. Otherwise my problems are elsewhere. My plugs are sooting up all the time.

Your the man. I just purchased my BMW yesterday with 69K on it. When the truck got there it would not start. Now I don't know if it is the HES or not but this video was done like a pro. I appreciate it. I am hoping it is that the kick stand was down or something easy. But if not and it is the HES I am now prepared to do it. I got this bike used from a JERK in KY. Took me 2 weeks for him to release the bike for me. Had a transport company pick up since it was 375 miles from home and did not know if it would run good enough to make it home. Now waiting for it's arrival. You don't know anyone who has side mirrors for these bike and a right hand saddle bag. I am missing those off my bike I bought. I see the mirrors on ebay for like 160.00 and I already ordered new oil and air filter,spark plugs and extra keys for it. Any tips on the bike would be helpful. I saw a video where the windscreen moved. Do all of them have this feature? Thanks for such a great video. May get some help doing this from a certified mechanic to watch over my shoulder. But I thought you did a great job on it. Looks like a lot but not scared of a little work. Thank.

More good information thats just needed..

I have some intermittent spark to plugs but no spray from injectors. Injectors are ok and spray with electrical override. Do you think this a hall sensor problem?

Your link for the test box build instructions does not work. Can you update?

At 19:40 when he is 'pulling' something with the center allen head on baseplate? Not clear what he is doing. Wiggling the plate CW or CCW? Anyone have a little more info?

Hello, good morning, I have a BMW 1200GS motorcycle, it does not start, the fuel pump does not enter and there is no spark in the spark plugs. My question could be a problem because the keys could have been deprogrammed and what else can I check? Greetings

I had a no fuel pump (after initial key on prime) and no spark at the plug... pulled the tank on 2000 R1100RT and "bingo" melted up wires on the connector side... Hope shipping from Romania does not take too long (I recalled having to do this same thing on my 1996 R1100RS - have not had an issue since (and I ride REGULARLY in wet weather)). (I got the waterproof version last time and again this time for piece of mind).

Doug, your left moves all over the place. You should rest the lift and set it down onto the safety bar and save your ram. It also stops all that movement. Was getting sea sick from that.. Other then that TY for some really good information and how to... Thats one pain in the but... A must change ASAP... TY

@Doug, Doug here. Doing this to my 1997 R1100 RT. What is the OT you see through the left side viewport?

Fantastic work

Great video! Thanks. Can you reveal who the guy is that may rewire the defective units?

Good video thank you . I have 1997 r1100rt and I have a love hate relationship with it. Honestly I wish I never bought it😥😭

Doug, what diameter is that U-bolt you used to lock in the crank? I heard you say its a 4" bolt but didn't get the dia. to know what fits in the hole. Thanks

I have replaced several HES and have never done anything but take the old one out and put in the new one. Never gone to TDC. Never locked the crank, and never had an issue with timing. What am I doing right?

Good video, don't suppose you know of a video or forum where someone has replaced the front timing chain behind the HES?

Hi Doug. You are great! Could you explain how your "bug" works to phase the Hall sensor? Thanks. Luciano from Siena (Italy)

Perhaps you have a video dealing with the K1100 16 valve engine Hall Effect sensor/timing?

It is hard to follow your video, it doesn't show which side of the bike you're working on when you're finding top dead center especially for someone who never done this before on this bike. I would mostly have to guess where you are or what you're working on. Many times your hands or shoulders are in the way & I can't see what needs to be done. Also is removing the gas tank necessary ?? Thank you.

Dang, radio shacks are all closing up . I’m wanting to build a test tool . Question: that box all parts were put into, where did you get it ? Thanks for your videos 👍🏽 Joe , Johnson City Texas

Hi would you please share the sensor position test box link with me, can't seem to find this

Hello, It was very helpful for me,however I''d like to ask you ,if I don't have the sensor device at all, can I just mark, at what position is the old plat, and then locate the new one, exactly on the same position.what do you think ? by the way, is your BMW starts ? Best Regards.

Hey was wondering if you have the man’s info that rewires those sensors? Thanks

Hello, I can not turn on the motorcycle. In my bmw r1100rt the maximum oil temperature and 1st gear (but dispay neutral "N")is displayed after turning the key on the FID. The starter is spinning, but the fuel pump does not turn on. What could be the reason? I heard from a mechanic friend that it could be a hall sensor or prevent rotor under v-belt pulley (change possision "tongue")?? Have you any idea ?

FabzRustRider like this very informative video thank you 💯

Hi Doug, I too built the Hager HES setting box. In his instructions, he says to rotate the HES baseplate until the LED just goes out (assuming the LED's are normally on). Your unit seem to function just the opposite (LED's normally off). Confusing.

Where did you buy the hall sensor for the bmw r850?

Good day can anyone perhaps help me with where the various colour wires connect to the 3 wires comming from the pickup points , mine was so bad coroded at the point where they connect that it just disintegrated when i cut open the wires

Good video

hi Doug . was there a link showing how to build the box somewhere ? cheers Shaun

How many hours does this take? I took to dealer, want a sanity check before they come back with the estimate.

Evening Doug,How did you come to the conclusion that it was the hall sensor and not bad fuel pump or ignition issue?

@illinoisBMWriders.... thanks for your informative videos... a simple question, so as to get the best fit, what was the diameter of your cut down U bolt engine lock please.. ? some silly prices on Ebay for a bit of bar !!! - It did occur to me that it would be useful to compile a list of known components liable to fail over a period of time... then consideration can be given to having a spare on hand or to replace before failure...Thanks again...

Test box link posted doesn’t work . Please if you would , please send it Joe Johnson City Texas

I want to know about the device which you made by your one too

Question: can one check the HES plate is in position with a multimeter technically?

Thanks for you reply.

Has anyone else had this problem? I have the engine locked at top dead centre and have the black box attached but there is not enough adjustment on the HES plate to make the light go on and off !!

Hello. Great video. It would be nice, difficult I know, to show how you adjust the timing of your hall sensor. And also, can you tell us what and why this sensor brakes down ? Is it a wiring problem or are the magnets loosing their strength ? Is there a way to check the sensor on faulths once its out ?

sir please help. If I don't have this tester, how else can I test it? (for alignment)

Would this box also work on early K's

Good info

Hi could somebody please get in touch with me for the HES.pdf document please

Will be replacing mine on a 1997 with 90k miles on it. My cycle still runs, but it is exhibiting strange symptoms. A BMW tech told me this is the best place to look. My cycle runs pretty good around town. It started breaking down on long trips. Right at 4200 rpms, it would start misfiring, losing power, and coughing. Felt alot like fuel line clogged. But only at 4200. Strange part, the symptoms cleared up when I climbed up to 4600 rpm. Eventually, (hours of riding) and it gets worse. Now it is misfiring from 4k up to 5k. Low rpm, 1/2/3 gear still engine runs good! Anyway, I'm relpacing this timing unit because it seems a good start. It may not work. If anyone has another idea, please comment.

was it successful? did the bike start?

Anyone know of a video like this for the K1100

Doug, I, too, am having trouble finding the timing unit build video. Would you please post the link again?

brasil ok

Video has something to do with VIEW! --- YOU show a lot of hands and shoulder while making RADIO!!!

Hello Doug, I have a 97' R1100RS that just got to 70K miles. Should I replace my HES sensor even if it is not damaged as preventive maintenance?

PLEASE PLEASE HELP YOU. MY MOTOR DAY DAYS FOR TWO, AND THERE IS A SINGLE DO NOT GAS ONLY TO GAS ONLY. WHEN I LEAVE THAT TWO TWO, OPET WORKS. ALL I WAITED, FUEL PUMP, FILTER, BOMBIN, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. KNOW I CAN HELP YOU THERE CAN BE

Thanks for this video, but I'll tell ya what...once I fix this I'm selling this POS GS and will never own another BMW again. I got this bike to go on adventures and with all the problems I've had with it I'm to scared to take it more then 100 miles from home. I don't know how you guys do this...I'm going back to well made Japanese bikes that actually run.

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