Only just discovered this fault could happen so thanks for posting this because if it does on my 2018GS it will at least give me half a chance of solving the problem myself. Great video and you now have another Sub.
I had the same problem on my RT,and I used an aerosol of ant-seize compound, containing moly di sulphide and other compounds. works a treat, you will know when it needs anti seize when it squeaks when you turn on the ignition. Its an easy fix and does not take long to do. I reckon it should be part of routine servicing
Well done, good to know it can be done. BMW say you must renew the complete header pipe at a cost of £1600 plus labor. Outrageous design at least on the previous model the valve was replaceable.
Thanks for you comment. I didn't get as far as asking BMW about it but it's shocking that they might default to replacing the entire header. A complete rip-off and bad for the environment too. If you look at my other video of the flapper working, I'm now convinced that the valve is there solely to meet sound regulations when the bike's at idle. It doesn't play any part in dynamically tuning the exhaust to improve mid-range torque, or any such thing. So, having it jammed open (or disconnected from the servo) isn't a real problem.
just had mine replaced under warranty on a 2018 GSA, jammed open.Now got shiny new exhaust headers and when the mechanic showed me the old ones, it struck me it cannot be so hard to repair instead of scrapping a £1200 part? The old replaceable section with the valve was a mere £250
Bill Sinclair Thanks for this. Did you notice your stuck valve and ask for it to be investigated, or did it get picked up during a routine service (e.g. via a diagnostic fault code)? Just wondered. I don't think I'd have noticed that mine was stuck.
@@Greeves 999greeves it went in for annual service at one year old. I knew the electronic steering lock had failed but they told me there had been 33 faults on flapper showing on diagnostics. the mechanic was working on another bike for the same fault and said he had done ten recently. A Pattern fault if ever I saw one. I did not notice ant difference as it was jammed fully open so full flow
Hi. I’ve had by bottle for years but graphite powder is still readily available on eBay, pretty cheap too. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133399528899 There’s no need to get expensive versions; graphite is graphite. :) I hope you find some and that it works for you
What is this flap’s purpose? Aside from not hearing it cycle when turning bike on and off, how would one know if was malfunctioning? If stuck closed I’d imagine it would run terribly, and hardly be rideable. Great video! Thanks.
Hi Jeremy A, it‘s only about noise reduction at defined rpm, to achieve less noise at lower rpm when cruising. The default position is fully open. To fully re-assure free flap function just remove the black cap at the flap-mechanism, start the engine and pull the throttle. The servo should react and pull the flap depending on rpm. Kind regards & always safe riding.😉
mister656 yep, this is my understanding too. It’s only there to meet noise regulations. Having it stuck fully open doesn’t seem to compromise performance at all. It does make the bike slightly louder at idle but there’s not much in it.
It is just there to meet noise regulations. They alway stick fully open, so far as I’ve seen. As you say, you’d know if it had stuck shut. So, if the valve cycles when the ignition is turned on, it’s most likely fine. Non-operation will show up on the OBD log, if you have access to a dealer style tool.
Yeah, I’ve successfully used copper grease spray too. Anything that leaves a dry lubricant once the grease has burnt off ought to be worth a try. Another commenter suggested molybdenum disulphide works too 👍
It works the fix but only about 5000 kilometers and then it was stuck again. I now lubricate the flap every now and then and also clear the error codes in te ecu! What is your experience is graphit the permanent fix?
Hi. For me graphite seems to last about 12 months / 5000 miles. So not brilliant. Another commenter suggested that Copper-Slip spray works better; so I’m thinking I’ll probably give that a try next time.
