I was tired of getting my flapper freed every year so I decided to leave the flapper in the frozen open position and remove the cables that are attached to the flapper. I locked the nuts on the cables and secure the cables to the shock frame closest to the flapper. I used a rubber grommet to space the cables away from the frame andI pointed downward so no water can drain down into the cable tubes. The wire cables are free to move and I no longer have to fuss with this. The servo motor will sometimes go a little crazy during the activation of the valve and will probably post a fault (as I have seen using my GS-911) but I really don't care. No warning lights will post on my dash. I hope this helps others who are tired of this yearly maintenance
@@Greeves the grommet that i used was the original front support mount for my seat. I replaced the original with Wunderlich lowering grommet. I just shaved it off a bit on one side so it could lay flat on the frame. I can send you a pic of the finished product if you like. can't paste it here
@@Greeves I purchased CRC Freeze Off this past weekend. I am going to try this fairly new penetrating oil. I always try and keep things working if I can and interested if this can help people who want to do the same. I will let you know if it works.
I tried a new lubricant and was surprised how well it worked. I had disconnected the stranded wire controls just recently. The lubricant is called Freeze Off. My flap was not moving at all. I used the lubricant and the lubricant finally made it down to the area that was seized. I kept working the upper and lower friction points. Even after working in the lubricant to the point where the flap returns to the open position without having to help it along. Then I kept spraying the lubricant at friction points hoping that the lubricant would penetrate the surrounding area on the bottom part of the flap shaft. The base that supports the bottom of the flap west probably contains a wick that holds a holding area for lubricant that supports continued lubricator of the flap shaft. I have installed a piece of plexiglass in the cover so I can see when it starts to bind. We will see how long it keeps moving freely.
Thanks for this. I especially love the window in the cover, so you can see the valve. I left the cover off mine for a while & painted the wheel half black & half white, so movement was really obvious. Never tried Freeze Off but I’ll try some now you’ve proven it works 🙂
@@Greeves I wanted the cover on so that the shaft that comes out the top was not getting any water from driving in the rain. Water can fin it's way to many areas when riding especially if you have any cross winds.I was thinking of doing something to the top of the flapper assy so I can see it better when initializing. Thanks for your tip!
Thanks for sharing. Just had a look at my year old one, stuck solid at first. I'd got an error message and the dealer can't do it yet fortunately it's already booked in for the end of the month 😜
So yours is still under warranty? If not & the dealer suggests you paying £££ for a replacement valve I'd suggest thinking about trying to free it up yourself - but then I am a cheap skate 😜
@@Greeves I've had a go, and got it moving the servo did it once or twice but it's to much for it. Jefferies Rotherham have new pipes ready to fit as they struggle to get them moving again. My 21 is supposedly the latest anti seize type 🤣
I had a go with some plus has first got moving and the servo did it twice but not back to fully open. Allan Jefferies Rotherham got back to me they have got pipes in for them to fit if they can't get it moving. It's got the latest anti seize valve apparently ☺️
Hi. The graphite powder is from Würth eshop.wurth.co.uk/en/GB/GBP/ though any graphite will probably be fine. The graphite oil was from Lidl supermarket - but again, any would do. The ‘graphite method’ has worked for me, by the way. I haven’t had any issues with my ’flapper’ for 3 years now 🙂
Thanks for the feedback. I put these videos up partly to remind myself but also in case they might be of use / interest to others. Great when when I get to hear that it’s been helpful
2 месяца назад
What does the exhaust flap do? Is there a disadvantage in removing it?
The valves main function is to reduce noise and keep the bike within maximum sound levels legislated in various markets around the world. The valve can be disabled without harming the bike & if you don't care about (potentially) being illegally noisy. You can simply disconnect the cables, tuck them out of the way and leave the valve in place; it's spring loaded to stay fully open. This disables the valve without flagging any faults & is cheap, easy & quickly reversable. Alternatively the valve can be removed completely & replaced by a plain pipe. This starts to get expensive and more involved. Likewise, removing the valve servo takes some thought to avoid OBD faults being flagged, or paying for an off-the-shelf 'servo elliminator' solution. Personally, I've left mine in place & working. I don't really care about exhaust sound, or alledged performance improvement (that can only be tiny). My insurance policy explicitly requires "no changes to the stock exhaust system" - another consideration. All the best :)
2 месяца назад
@@Greeves Thank you for the wonderfully quick reply. I wish you pleasant driving
I haven’t done this because my insurance doesn’t allow any changes to the exhaust system. It would be easy to do though, with no performance issues. Just disconnect the cables from the butterfly valve & zip tie them out of the way. The servo box will still wiggle the cables but with no effect - and no troublesome error codes generated either 👍
@@Greeves I think I’ll do just that. I watched your two videos and freed it off but it doesn’t seem to make much difference- a combination of heat and carbon causes it to again seize. I’ve become concerned that it’ll seize closed and cause some sort of damage to the engine. But thanks for the advice and guidance with the videos. D
I have recently seen a set of headers without cat and flapper.. about 240 quid.. including a servo "eliminator" .. great idea.. emissions aren't part of MOT in UK...
The flapper seems to be for noise suppression rather than emissions, so no problem anyway. Just disconnecting the Bowden cables & leaving the valve permanently open works too. Not quite as neat & v slight obstruction left in the exhaust but cheaper & easier 🙂
Quick update. I stripped it down and found the flap only needing lubed up. But the motor was not moving all the way. I got a used motor off James Sherlock 29 quid.Cleared obd codes and all is well. SORTED!
@@wellybobs4403 Thanks for the post - I have a similar problem and guessing it's a stuck exhaust valve. Engine has gone into Emergency shutdown, showing errors on the Motoscan OBD2 after riding with a damaged o2 Sensor. Just curious if you can remember the errors or which OBD2 you used to reset? :)
Hi. I notice when first turning on the ignition. The valve should go through a close-open cycle, which you can hear. If the valve squeaks, or doesn’t move at all, something is wrong. Having said this, the valve seems to stick open when it does fail and doesn’t degrade the performance of the bike at all. The valve is just there to meet noise legislation at idle / low speed. So you can just leave it stuck open (though dealers will see the error on their diagnostic machine & try to sell you an expensive fix).
Also. . .if you look here you'll see that the valve is pretty much only ever fully open or fully closed. It's open all the time except for very low speeds, or stationary - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WO-pPKzu_NI.html
Hi. I got the graphite oil from Lidl. Not sure where the graphite powder came from, can’t remember. If you search eBay, or Amazon for “graphite powder” it’ll bring up loads of options, mostly sold as lubricant for locks. (It’s good for this because it’s dry & doesn’t attract dirt & grit.) Doing the same for “graphite oil” will bring up some options for aerosol oil sprays - though they mostly look to be much more expensive than the can I got from Lidl 😕 Good luck.
Yes, graphite powder only seems to last about a year for me. Disconnecting the cables and leaving the valve permanently fully open is easier but check your insurance. My insurance specifically prohibits "any change to the exhaust system". I've no doubt they'd use this to avoid paying out if they could prove the valve had been tapered with.
I doubt your problem is down to the exhaust valve. Mine was stuck open when I bought the bike and it was months before I realised. Finally getting the valve working reduced the sound level at idle but didn’t make much difference to the performance. A check of the fault codes on your bike might help diagnose the problem but it sounds like injectors, mass flow meter, O2 sensor, or similar that’s upsetting the fueling(?). I hope you can fix it.
Maybe this information comes too late for you, but I solved the stalling issue by cleaning the throttle bodies. Problem solved 100%. My bike is a 2015 R1200GS
Hi. I don’t think it could cause your right leg to get hot ; not unless you have an obvious exhaust gas leak somewhere (which would be very obvious). I’ve always found the GS to handle heat really well. Especially compared to, for example, the radiators on an HD Electraglide - which is like sitting in front of an electric fire!
redento2002 Hi. I use a graphite oil spray and dry graphite powder. My thinking is that graphite is a good lubricant that’s will stand the high temperatures. The graphite oil helps free the valve up initially and to wash the extra graphite powder into the bearings. Once in use, the oil will quickly be evaporated / burnt off but the graphite should still be effective.
Hi. WD40 will be as good as any light oil in freeing the valve up initially. I’ve not heard of Anderson Graphite but any graphite powder should be OK, e.g. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133399528899
