BMW R1200RT Alternator Belt Replacement 

Taking the front wheel off isn't necessary, but removing the crash bars would allow use of a socket, which would be much easier. I'm just stubborn!

Yeah, I have no doubt that would work, the danger is the potential for nicking the belt. To my surprise I actually experienced a complete belt failure on the RT. I rode an hour home on battery alone! In that case I'm pretty sure it was the belt itself. The one that failed was made in Romania, the one that I replaced it with was made in Germany. I suspect the Romanian one was old stock and perhaps not well made. I did get it from a BMW dealer, however. Anyway, after that experience I do take seriously the idea of protecting the edges of the new belt.

@@tinderboxarts I hear you. I used a "hybrid" method when I replaced the belt on my 2012 GSA last week. I used a plastic strip to remove the belt (couldn't have been any easier). And to put the belt back on I simply fit as much as I could over the lower pulley (about half the width of the belt), and as I rotated the pulley with the wrench the belt worked its way on after less than a full rotation. I'm not worried about nicks because I checked the pulley and there are no sharp edges, and it's an OEM belt from Continental. All in all it was a piece of cake.

Go get 'em!

Throttle body synchronization you mean. Yes, maybe I will do that video at some point, although there are other examples already on the web. If you have trouble finding one for the RT remember that the GS is essentially the same.

Thank you so much! In fact I have R1200R with same engine as your bike! Standing by for more tech videos! Nice day to you!

That crossbar attaches to the engine fairly high under the fairing with a piece of flat steel on either side. You'll need to remove the "tupperware" fairings to get access. Once you do, the two flat pieces of steel sort of squeeze the engine they way your aunt squeezed your face when she saw you as a little kid. Then the large "wings" connect to the crossbar ends for stability and there is a lock bolt. I'd suggest you put the whole thing together on the ground first and it will become obvious how it fits together.

@@tinderboxarts I understand the principle but not which holes you use for mounting the crossbar to the engine. I can't seem to line it up with anything obvious. Thanks

It's always difficult to describe these things without a picture. If you look at the top, leading edge of your cylinder head cover, and then follow that line in toward the engine case, the mounting bolt location is about an inch above that line on the engine case. In the same area of the engine case is a large mounting bolt for the engine itself.

@@tinderboxarts is the bold on the right hand side the one that holds the cases together? The T-50 size? Thanks! I think the other one is the one holding the oil line on the way to or from oil cooler if I understand it correctly.

Tell you what--go to my tinderboxarts.com website and send me an email from that contact form. Then I can reply with a couple of pictures for you.

My RT has relatively low mileage, but the original belt (I assume--I bought the bike used) was 7-8 years old at the time and with age can come cracks and dryness. It was inexpensive, so I did it as a preventative measure. The original belt was still in pretty good shape, actually. I do try to keep my bikes in tip-top shape because they are an outlet for me and the last thing I want is a bike misbehaving while I'm trying to clear the cobwebs from my head. You could always just pull the cover and take a look with a flashlight for cracks or signs of slipping, such as shiny, burnished grooves.

@@tinderboxarts That's a good tip; I'll do that. Thanks.

There could be a lot of reasons, including fuel pump or harness failure. You need to check the systems methodically, and if you suspect the fuel pump is not coming on you should start with testing the electrical connector to the pump and then test to see if there is fuel pressure.

You totally can. I was just using the removal of the old belt as a chance to try the plastic technique while making the video, that's all. You could just take some shears and cut the belt, or turn it off the pulley without worrying about nicking the belt since it will be tossed anyway.

I actually don't recall now.

You can do that, but it is a lot more work to get a couple plugs out. Really it isn't difficult to turn over the engine as far as overcoming the compression, it's just an awkward space to work. If you don't have the crash bars in the way and you have a socket, it's a piece of cake. The crash bars really get in the way, that's all.

I did mention that you certainly can cut the old one off. This was my first time on this job and I was curious more than anything else how difficult it would be to wind the old one off, plus it was practice for winding the new one back on. But, there's no shame in just cutting the old one off if you're careful about the cut.

I must have missed that! Thanx

Well, that's a pretty silly assertion! Removing the crash bars and then re-installing them would add 25-30 minutes to the job. So it's more fiddly not being able to use a socket, but not a longer job since you save removing the crash bars. Removing the spark plugs is not necessary, but that would add the time to remove the fairing (necessary on some models, anyway) remove the plastic head covers and then the plugs. And if your dealer mechanics use no tools, how do they remove the bars and plugs you deem necessary, not to mention the alternator belt cover? They must have some impressively strong fingers.

This was mentioned elsewhere--you can certainly cut the belt to get it off. I was just attempting to roll it off for the sake of the practice and the video.

@@tinderboxarts Good point. Always good to practice

I can't tell too much from a video, and even in person sound can be difficult to pin down. The things you mentioned are pretty deep--first I would check easier things. You could pull the valve covers without too much trouble and take a peek, checking clearances while you're there. Make sure it isn't something silly like an alternator belt or a loose spark plug. Does it go away with higher engine RPM? That might point to an oil pressure issue. Does it change when the clutch is disengaged? That might point to the clutch or throwout bearing. Try to eliminate what you can before jumping to conclusions.