Summary: The best theoretical position for silencers is between the nodes of the 5th and 6th harmonics, so that means 18.3% in from both ends of the portion of your string that isn't touching the bow 1. measure length of string that doesn't touch bow in normal position 2. multiply that by 0.183 3. go in that new distance from both ends of your measured string length and put silencers there
Happy to hear that! Sounds like a great bow. I never tried a longbow and that's something I've been missing out apparently. Thanks for sharing and Cheers!
I was taught over a half century ago, 1/4 way down on upper limb and 1/3rd way up on lower limb. Then it cancels its vibratory frequency. You can tune by moving the upper one in either direction in small increments to elliminate almost all noise. Been doin it like that for over 50yrs and it works very well.
When I look at slow motion video of bow strings right after release, this whole theory is out the window. If you have a brass nocking point, it will cut the vibrating length in two, creating two new vibrating segments with their own separate set of nodes.
That’s why you don’t use brass nocking points...............EVER......especially if you shoot 3 under tie in a nock point and there only needs to be a point above the nock
Thanks for your question! If you knock your arrow and set it on the rest. Then, square your arrow with the string, keeping it on the rest. the knocking point is typically 1/2" (~1cm) above that. Additionally, you can use the paper tuning trick to fine tune that position. Hope this helped! Cheers!
This is nice scientific approach to our hobby. I wander what is a minima optimal weight of leeche silencers? I would expect the smallest would result in highest arrow speed. The solution provided by Neotoxo54 is also tempting and may be even more efficient but the bow limbs are symmetrical, so I'm not sure for long therm positionining the weights non-symmetrical would affect the limbs.
Hi! You are right, the smaller the better and it does not take that much to dampen the vibration. The 1/4 - 1/3 theory is also a good approach I believe. I don't think the weight symmetry would be impacting the shot noticeably as it's not different enough. If anything, I would put the 1/3 on the lower limb (more effect) and 1/4 on the upper (less effect). The upper limb need to remain stronger to compensate for the arrow knock being a little higher then the middle of the string (on most bows). I have not been shooting all winter and because of your comment, I now know what I'll be doing this afternoon ;o) Thanks and Cheers!!
@@OuttheCave Thanks for your quick feedback. I also tested today on an ILF riser with longbow limbs with 1.8 grams of weight ( sorry not used with imperial metrics) and the result is convincing and I think this is what will stay on my bow from now on. I only tested symmetrical position at 1/2 distance between 1/5 and 1/6 string length. I actually searched for the weight of the existing rubber leech silencers and used two balls of lead for each string end. I'll fine tune weight and position in the next days.
@@OuttheCave I've done some testing in the last days with some variation of weights and positions. For too much weight it seems like the weight itself maintains the vibration - so, too much is not good. The vibration is indeed dumpened well and it is shorter time. Still the bow is not smother, it's almost the same loud but shorter time. My initial intention was to use this as replacement of fur or cat wiskers. Do you know is there a reason for not reducing the loudness ?
Here is another method you may wish to consider. STRING SILENCER THEORY Something you might try & I use is taking advantage of the heterodyne principal of canceling resonate frequencies. In short, the heterodyne principal states that when two frequencies are mixed they produce both even and odd additional frequencies. This is how radios are able to transmit or receive a wide spectrum of frequencies without having a separate resonate circuit for each frequency. A naked bow string will sing like a plucked guitar string SO if you tie one silencer 1/3 the distance from one end of the bow string and the other silencer 1/4 the distance from the opposite end that combination will cancel out both even & odd resonate frequencies. That will make the string go thump instead of twang. Measure the distances with bow strung from where the string touches limb. This works with longbows, recurves & compound contraptions too. Aside from noise canceling it also allows the use of silencers with less bulk and mass giving you a little extra arrow speed. I use those small silicon string silencers from 3 Rivers Archery...string leeches or wishbones or any of the others work just a well.
Hi Neotoxo54, This is making a lot of sense to me! I just never came close of thinking about setting them at a different distance. I never seen anyone do that either. I will certainly try that. Regarding the liter/smaller silencers, I like the look of my raccoon balls but I'll think about it ;o) BTW, your explanation is very well written and very clear so thanks a lot for taking the time to Write! Lets keep applying science to fun stuff! Cheers!!
Out the Cave It will certainly work with most any material. I shy away from fiber silencers because they can retain water (i.e. in the rain or heavy fog) & weigh them down reducing arrow speed. I also like using limb savers placed at the end of the limb fades from the riser. They help dampen limb vibrations and also stop them from resonating like a bell. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@kobbz1161 I don't have chromo but trying it out today, anecdotally I thought it was faster and certainly quieter using the everladt string leech on Mt AFB
Great question! Adding more (than 2) silencers would certainly reduce the noise a lot but also decrease the string travel speed. So your arrows would drop fester and travel a shorter overall distance. Additionally, the closer to the string center, the more drag a silencer will cause. It's a compromise to balance with personal preference I guess. I hope that helps. Cheers!
extra grains on string. A no no.. on a recurve bow string would be big mistake. On a compound bow string, a different game. We allready attach on it a hundred things :P
Hi, thanks for your question! Absolutely not. If you wax your string a minimum, the silencers will hold well in there and stay in place when taking down your bow string. And the real fur last a very long time as well. Cheers!
Good question! No, it does not unwrap one bit. You can give a quick wax to your string before to be sure but I have some that have been there for many years without getting loose. Thanks for your question and Cheers!!
Hi and thanks for your good question! In theory, on a plain compound bow string, it would produce the same dampening effect. Unfortunately, I don't have a compound bow to do any test. In practice, there are a few different gismos on a compound bow string that are changing the string density along its length (peep sight, clicker attachment, limiter, release anchor, ...) and that would make the equation a bit too complexe to factor all of that in. However, this method could be a good starting point to set the silencer positions and, from there, you can do some tests and slight adjustments. Cheers!
this is the logical way to reduce noise. The other way (works great if you also do what you say with the silencers) is a heavier arrow.The heavier the arrow (well in logical limits you will not shoot 1600 grain arrow) the less energy "stays" on the string and vibrates. The lighter the arrow the more noise you get cause the arrow needs less energy to fly so it "remains" on the bow, string etc. Thats why , an ultra light arrow can cause derailment on a compound or brake limbs on compound or recurve. Cause its almost like you dry fire the bow.The energy is above the limits. In a way, noise is extra energy.
@@OuttheCave Already install the bunny tail silencer on my horsebow string.. It work out fine.. Reduce the noise from 83 db to 77 db.. But i haven't try out and shoot the bow..
Hi Jimmy, I feel you, this is a bit too theoretical and I tried to simplify as much as possible, using drawings. Mainly, this is just like muting a guitar string, if you mute at an harmonic node, you will still get a sound. Don't hesitate if you have questions, I will do my best to answer them. Cheers!
