I've been doing this for years and never knew about chamfering and filing the end before flaring it. Probably would have saved me a lot of poorly done flares that I had to redo. Thanks bigtime
I’m going to check your other videos out too. I’ve watched several on how to do this, and you’re the first one to show prepping the tube. I love the close up shots, and detailed explanations! Thank you!
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for being part of the 1% of tutorial video creators that zoom in sufficiently! WHY is that so hard for 99% of video creators??
Really, this video was much easier to understand than the other videos on RU-vid. I have been following the other video guides and have not been able to get a single flare to come out right after about 15 tries. It looks like the size of the chamfer I was making was too small and I was leaving a little bit too much line protruding from the holder. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. I watched it a couple of times, then practiced on some brake line off cuts. When i was happy I had got the technique correct i then made replacement lines for a project car that I am working on. All good. No leaks. Thanks again for a really good instructional video.
I cant believe Ive gone so many yaers not doing this exactly right... Today I am replacing a line on a Sunfire and after tightening the nut the line was loose in the fitting... Im doing this on the car so its a bit harder than having the vice handy... but I have never filed the end of the line as much as I guess I should have been and I think that has made this harder than it has even needed to be... Thank you for making this video.
I'm studying aviation mechanic and use your channel anytime I have a question. thank you for your knowledge you are making me one of the best students.
Replacing *all* of the brake-lines on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible this weekend. This video is *exactly* what I needed. Thanks so much! (I've watched it half-a-dozen times, just to make sure I've got it down. And I'm sure I'll watch it again this weekend before I get started. :-)
Needless to say, there are many times that you can't remove the tube from the vehicle. I have found that this tool made to debut bolt threads works outstanding on putting the chamfer on the outside of the tool. It is simple quick and perfect every time. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for the walkthrough guide on using the flaring tool. I have one and while the instructions that came with were well-written and concise, seeing it done properly while explained so well is extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. :)
Very informative and well shot. Thanks for the close-ups and the step-by-step instructions. I'm replacing my truck's brake line today (now that it has warmed up a bit, finally) and while I've done this in the past, it's good to have a refresher on the steps. Thanks!
Thank you! That was exactly what I needed to see. Was concise and your use of correct terms for the process was very welcome to my ears. Nice to learn something the right way. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. You got a new subscriber.
Brakes are the most important system on any vehicle - first year apprentices & master mechanics all need to know - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wK1TL35pnNc.html
Repairs101 Ah, nothing. Weak attempt at humor. Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I made it through most of my job yesterday, but broke my anvil before the last two flares. I had some single flares on my Jeep that I was replacing (I know they're unsafe, but I had to get it rolling with what I had at the time).
Jon McKinnis I caught the humor and attempted to add my own (apologizing for being polite?) but thanks for that. PS: good luck with your Jeep. I know what it's like to have to do what you have to do. PPS: I know a lot of CDNs and they're not all polite. Especially in traffic.
Thanks for the video and it was straight forward and even included the importance of BRAKES. Now I'm ready to fix my brake line, as it had to be sawed off due to the fitting becoming one with the caliper and I replaced the 19 yr. old caliper.
Daniel Rynberg I've seen that happen many times - usually try pre soaking with penetrating oil the night before and using flare nut wrenches but sometimes they're so far gone it's a joke. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
+WOOODYII2 - Thanks! Always glad to share what I've learned. (And all modesty aside I've made dozens of great videos. Have a look!) Thanks for commenting!
On a side note for people it is good practice to deburr your brake line while holding it upside down that way you can minimize the chance of any metal shavings being left behind inside your brake line which could in return damage the rubber seal in your brake calliper
Gear informative how to video! Did flares my whole life but only 1 or two doubles so I always need a refresh, this was AAA+ how to vid thank you and keep them coming. I would give you an Emmy for how well you did and filmed this video! Note: hard to find just anvil when you already have flaring kit. To the best of my knowledge you can't generally buy just the anvil, so you can get a discount set and use with your good flaring tool set or ask a local mechanic to borrow the part if you are only going to do it once. Some auto parts stores will loan yo the tool also.
Great video good detail and explanation. I am just about to attempt this job on my Vauxhall vectra elite wish me luck and thank you for your videos Richard Oxford England
I've searched and searched and finally find this video, one of the only sources I can find thaqt explains how far out of the tooling to stick the line. Turns out I've been going about it the right way this whole time, yet no double flare. Looks like replacing 3 ft of line just turned into replacing the whole thing with pre-flared pieces :(
I was going to ask if this could be done on-the-vehicle, to replace, say, a rusted section, but I predict your answer would be: It depends--on whether there is a suitably long straight section in an area with room enough to be confident that flares can be made well. What would help would be smaller tools to facilitate the chamfering and flaring in a tight space. I'm thinking of a one-size flaring tool and a "cone maker" file or hone that slips over the tubing end to file the chamfer.
Thanks for the fast reply! I may not have described the line correctly. Here's the description from AutoZone: Domestic/Import Premium nickel-copper brake line coil does not rust or corrode & bends 58% easier than steel tubing. OE on many european vehicles.
Steve Lipofsky I honestly can't recall ever using that product. Maybe ask ETCG or ScottyKilmer, they're more likely to have used it (I am primarily a boat mechanic but with many years on HD equipment like forklifts and cranes).
This is the first good brake flaring video I've seen on here. I've done it before, and it worked, but wanted to be sure, that I'm doing it right on the vehicle I'm restoring. So, you're Canadian? Maybe you can tell me if my Canadian made 1990 Dodge Caravan has single or double flares?
Chances are, I may have had a hand in on making your flaring tool. I worked at a machine shop called Dowley Manufacturing for quite a few years and we made them for snap on blue point mac and several other names
Nice video. My prefab brakeline kit had brass fittings. I cant believe they would provide a dangerous fitting?? I dont think I have seen fittings that were not brass. I think brass may be better since it is softer than aluminum (like a master cylinder casting) and that crossthreading won't ruin the piece its going into.
