Briggs Valve Guide Coming Loose Repair 

I did this for a customer. I told him it saved a lot of money (new head is $200 plus labor) and that I’d put a head in it if it doesn’t work correctly. Currently it’s running great.

I've had a lawnmower sitting for 5 years or more because of this problem. I really didnt want to buy a new head. So I pulled the engine out of the tractor I pushed both guides back down and tacked them with a welder. going to reinstall everything this weekend. I cant believe how fast I did the repair. I didn't even take the heads off! Thanks for posting this video!

I rarely comment on videos due to the amount of misinformation online but I had a few minutes today and a Briggs twin 24hp on my bench with a slipped valve guide. In the past I have swapped heads, even taking the time to try and peen a guide back in place (3 years and its still going). I was surprised to see you tack it but what a great idea. Excellent tip and video. Keep up the great work. (for those who care this is my 6th briggs with this exact problem on the exhaust side)

i just repaired mine before i watched this vid. great vid btw. on mine i pushed the guide out and peened it. used loktite sleeve retainer on it and pressed it back in. it is together but did not run it long as i just did it yesterday and wanted to give it a full 24 hour set up. thanks for the vid.

Yeah, mine does the same thing. I have an 18 year old Poulan, 18 hp Intek. I adjusted to .004, they say it’s the thickness of a human hair. The mower ran fine till the last two weeks of this last season, then snapped a push rod. I made necessary repairs, set to .004 again, mower made it 60ft down my yard, choked out and sure enough rocker arms came loose. The intake tappet was laying at the bottom of the valve cover. Here we go again! Thanks for posting this video!

Adequate and economical and practical solution. Well done.

I got a free riding mower with a blown 16 hp OHV engine and it appears that the exhaust guide had moved and the valve stem had broke off into the cylinder and punched a few holes in the piston. I could actually move the valve guide through the casting by hand so I bought a used head to repair. I think I can use this head now if I can secure a new guide with your technique. I might even tack the top of the guide for extra assurance that it will stay put. Thanks for posting!

Nice fix. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up. Thanks for another great idea Doublewide.

great video i tried this as well does work dont know how long it will last but it did the trick for me versus buying new or used one thanks

This happened to mine today , on. 1994 troy built 18 hp twin b&s ,that's why i was on here searching for fixes for it , thanks man

Great video! I have a 25hp v-twin Briggs, I can't keep the valves adjusted on. I'll bet that's what's up with it. I would go check it now but I was messing with it most all day! It's too hot now. I'll have a look tomorrow. Quick question, do you know if heads off a 20hp will fit a 25hp?

its happened to me and now i will try your method hopefully it ll work out for me also . thanks love your videos so helpful

Just found two bent pushrods, this video at this point been a great help watching , my,,,,,Question please) is it a must to wield the one sleeve back as seen on this video, or the (both).,,,thanks for any help just need to have one or both done before installing it back , thanks again sorry, can these parts b order like the keepers and the sleeves if u can use them back, and what company can they be order from .

hey bud how is this repair holding up i have to do this on my robin twin and it looks like great idea

nice,id have to swap spools on my mig, to flux core,i normally have the sheilding gas,and that may be too big in the port, nice fix,with a tack weld

Working on one right now,. Left cylinder wouldn't run right. Took the valve cover off and have one bent push rod and one that's MIA. Guessing that ones in the crank housing now. Culprit appears to be the valve guide came out. I like your idea of welding it. That should keep it running for many years.

I have two cylinders off my Briggs and Stratton that have the same issue. One head is exactly like what you have and I need to push the sleeve down. But can you believe it the other had the exhaust sleeve actually went in the quarter inch and I'll have to push it from the other direction out. I was thinking of using epoxy on both ends of each sleeve just a little devil around to keep the sleeves for moving up or down. Lucky I found your video it sure helps

Is the weld still holding? Thinking about doing this to a Kawasaki since full head for the twin I have isn’t available. Thanks

If you look at a new cylinder head, you will see that all exhaust guides stick out of the port. That is to keep the guide out of the heat from exhaust and help cool it. The intake guide sticks down into the intake port and is cooled by the fuel /air mixture passing thru!

Looking at a video by taryl on this also on a briggs twin and he shows the guide being flush rather than being exposed inside the port. when in proper place. When it had went up you could how it was up from surface in the port.. Was it because intake and exhaust are different?

I really wish you had the time to show us how to put the lifters back in as well. I am at that point and am having a pretty good pile of issues with it.

Good video Bob, looks like it will be fine repair.

I just took apart a 24 hp B & S and believe it or not it dropped all four push rods due to both exhaust valve guides slidding up due to heat . One found the drain back hole and fell in the block . It's suggested to replace both head assemblys with new ones but dealer only has # 2 head assembly and # 1 & # 2 are on indefinite back order same as 17hp etc cam shafts which are 8 months to a year out for re stock !!! So I was looking for a fix for my friends motor as there aren't many options.

You do neat stuff !!!

Wondering what year the engine is. I have a 1988 B&S that's losing compression on the right cylinder. Likely this problem. 18 HP on a Sears garden tractor.

I have had this problem on my 24HP v twin I peened the guide but it lasted about 10 hours and it bent another rod. I am going to try this and see. Thanks Doublewide6 for the short but complete video. BTW how long did it last?

Did this repair last long term ? the guides on mine are coming loose and I was thinking of doing the same thing ?

Thank you. I have this problem on a 23 hp vanguard

What would cause a keeper to pop off ?

Beware if you try this with Kawasaki V-Twins! Mine had Powdered Metal Guides that exploded when I tried to weld to them! I even pressed them out first and tried to put a bead of weld on them. MIG, TIG, nothing worked. Just a tip.

Really nice fix

I tried to do exactly what you did but I used a wire feed mig it didn't work at all because the valve sleeve is made out of sort of weird alloy and the brittle as hell. The weld did not stick to it. I'm going to post a video of me scarring the valve guide hole and valve guide and then use high temp epoxy and then press the valve guide back in.

I have to remember this one. Really nice fix.

Great video. It is the kind of repair I like. It is already broken so you can't break it.

would that cause a knock in the motor

Nice job hopefully it works. I’ve got one that I’m going to weld up and use tomorrow. I’ll report back with the results.

******************HEADS UP******************* I've seen more than a few overheat due to mouse nest's under shroud. After going thru this on my own twice, I check every spring and always blow out ANY debris after EVERY use

Interesting stuff. I wonder if a guy could just put an epoxy bead on one side instead of a weld. but the weld thing looks like it might hold better.

The weld certainly should prevent the guide from moving away from the cylinder head. Would you suggest welding the guide in a new head to prevent the condition from developing?

welding that didn't warp the valve guide?

Hi doublewide. I’ve been watching your videos for many years. Was it a good long term fix? I have a Briggs twin with the exact same problem

Yeah, I thought about debris getting to the inside of the guide and using an old valve in there to protect against that but, I guess it wasn't a problem . Thanks for the video and see ya on the next one

Awesome fix, but really you only need a spot of weld on it, it's just to stop the valve moving back up through the sleeve.

Keep it clean! It’s not just the fins on the head! Pay attention to the casting around the exhaust valve, oil with dirt makes multiple layers from the valve cover leaking. This causes insulation and the area directly at the surrounding casting of the exhaust guide cannot cool, only get hotter and hotter. Pay attention to the carb also, if it’s to lean that means more combustion heat. All these mowers these days are running so lean by EPA standards that they are asking to self destruct.

How is this repair holding up?

I've fixed lots of these .. The head gasket will blow because of high compression when the pushrod bends .. A lot of B&S models do this , the 10hp snowblower engine is one of the worst for the guide moving .. There's 1 model engine ( I forget which 1 right now 20hp maybe) that even thou it's fairly new engine model you can't even buy a head (right head I believe) for it...

Why not at least remove the guide and knurl/centre punch and use hard setting lock tight.Hope it stays put👍

nice job

If the metal sleeve is surrounded by cast aluminum then what did you weld the sleeve to? Also when pressing the valve sleeve back in with that piece of metal sleeve that you used why did you need to put the valve in it before pressing it back in?

I just peened the side it happened on in 8 places with a punch. Adding to my list of engineers id like to meet up with in a dark alley for tea...

Have a 20 hp Briggs I have keep adjusting the valves on. This must be a possible reason for that. Are all the exhaust pushrods aluminum?

A question: I have a piece of junk Kohler Courage 20 with the same issue. Can you explain how and where one would divot or peen on or around the valve guide to hold it in place? I only have a stick welder, which would probably put a big hole in the work piece!

Is there a place on that head that could be drilled and tapped for a set screw to hold the guide in place?

I have the same issue on my Briggs intek 22hp. But my valve guides look like their bronze! Any ideas? I've seen vids of guys peening the guide in place. But this method seems a lot better.

This is a perfect use for loctite 680, just be sure it's where you want it, it's not coming out without some serious effort once it's cured

I had that same problem with a 20 hp Briggs I was working on but being that was the only problem with it and I paid 25 dollars for the mower with a bagger I'm not complaining. But all I did was took a punch and added divots all around the guide and it seems to be holding up. I used it for a month or so mowing 3 acres a week and it seemed to hold. And haven't gotten a call from the guy I sold it to so it seems to be holing up just fine.

Did you weld the other valve guide too or just the one? Hope it holds! It probably will. If not you can just do it again. Maybe even drill/tap half way through the guide and use a screw to secure it through the exhaust port?

Another great idea is to take us leave right out then talk around the very close to the bottom with the welder then grind little bit off until it smooth or even peen the sleeve out on the bottom. Then you can slide the sleeve back in from the bottom to get your height on top of 1/8 of an inch sticking through

NEW & ENHANCED: Loctite® 638, Loctite® 648 & Loctite® 680 Retainers may do it

Looks like a good repair, Doesn't seem like the place for an original press fit?

What kind of wire were you running in the welder?

i just tried this. no dice. my guide is cast.the bead just chipped off after welding (i hammered it to test), taking a chunk of the guide with it. :(

I had the same problem with a 25hp Briggs V-Twin

Hey we met in person always like your vids one question if you buy a head replacement is it assembled I cant get the exhaust valve to work at all. The muffler will glow red during the day. Got the mower for free. Thanks

Used to do things like this until i started dealing more with engineers and realised how quickly things can escalate when a new guide even oversize is like $10 most

Spot weld guide in port

This issue is caused by unburned ethanol blended fuel that's left behind in the combustion chamber and around the valves in the intake and exhaust ports as well during the shutdown process. An engine is just an air pump so when you cut the ignition to shut it down it continues to rotate and pump atomized fuel/air mixture through the entire engine and out the exhaust until it stops. Because there's no ignition present this unburned fuel gets left behind which absolutely contains water which absolutely causes electrolysis or rapid corrosion of metal this happens when you have dissimilar metals that are touching together and there's an electrolyte present like water. That's only part of the problem blended fuel ethanol blended fuel i's also hydroscopic and hydrophilic so it attracts and absorbs water from the surrounding air. Because alcohol is water soluble soluble they blend together seamlessly when there's enough water present, the water and alcohol separate from the hybrid gasoline and sink to the bottom of the fuel cell because they're heavier. and start to produce acetic acid this process is called phase separation the manufacturer of these crappy hybrid ethanol fuels try to claim that phase separation doesn't happen in small quantities of fuel. That's a lie it absolutely does I've seen it happen hundreds of times and less than a gallon of ethenol blended fuel. So the electrolysis and the acetic acid present in these fuels is what destroys the carburetors, seizes the valves, seizes the Pistons etc. Possible because trying gasoline and ethanol alcohol which is water soluble not compatible they have to use nasty chemicals to keep them from separating. These nasty chemicals will eat rubber so you should not use rubber fuel line with ethanol fuel it also hardens the the diaphragms in two stroke carburetors causing them to fail as well as hardening the diaphragms in fuel pump fed engines like the ones most riding lawn mowers used presently. hardening of a fuel pump diaphragm on riding mower for instance will not only cause the fuel pump to fail prematurely it also can cause the fuel pump diaphragm to get micro cracks in it while it continues to operate. Because the fuel pump is fed from a vacuum/pulse line on the valve cover pressurized fuel will be introduced into the into the engine and make its way down to crankcase diluting the oil washing the bearing surfaces causing the engine to blow up from lack of lubrication. Electrolysis and acetic acid will also cause the carburetor float system to fail fooding the engine with gasoline when it is off and will eventually wind up in the crankcase oil which will also cause it to grenade from lack of lubrication due to oil thinning. It's real simple don't ever run ethanol blended hybrid fuel {aka acid gas in any small engine it will cause premature wear and eventually engine failure no matter what anybody tries to do to stop it.

Nice fix Bob . The heads must be made of chocalate these days.

NOOOOOOOOOOOO

Yes sir, Briggs and Stratton CRAP. I had several v-twins with bent push rods, I figured at first the customer was using old fuel and the valve stem was full of varnish. Boy was I wrong, I didn't realize briggs stupidity at its finest. no wonder they went bankrupt.

That vise just ruined the finely machined FLAT sealing surface of the head. Think about it! Handle the part as if you just took it off the CNC milling machine yourself.

No wonder you weld edit at 165 bucks a pop that's rediculous

must be made in china?

This is gunna fall apart on start up 😆

You dummy,get a tiny bit..drill a tiny hole through the inside of the guide where you welded it and pin it..DONE..no crap falling into your running motor because s piece of self "that didn't fall of when testing",But now falls off because of heat,vibration,and movement from use, get st done,yea but get her done clean,simple and forever lasting is my way I was done in less time than it took you to take the valves out, I used a small c clamp and pushed my guide in place without even removing the valves...

WARNING Once you do this it will be almost impossible to fix it right . It is a simple fix buy a new guide and a narrowing tool and fix it right .most shops will see that and tell you you need a new head because what you did is destroyed the head a machine shop could have fixed it for 20 bucks before you did this .

WOW!! I can't believe what I seen! Do you actually have a repair shop that you do customer work? Tell me....did you get the valve to seal after this so called repair? If you are going to do customer repairs, you need to have the proper tools to do the job correctly. The proper way is to install an oversize guide, ream it for proper valve clearance, then re cut the valve seat to match the new guide, and cut the valve surface, and lap for valve seal.