This is a good video on the basics of installing, but it doesn't cover the gas block hole to barrel hole alignment. If the gas block you are installing happens to index perfectly against the hand guard piece or quad rail, that's great, but that's not always going to be the case. I'd like to see a video on how to do that alignment.
im sorry but i have to say it, while your video quality is not as high as a competitors videos... the information given is much higher quality, longer length,more indepth and is not just to sell a product. infact i have noticed its very rare that someone will say "you can buy this part from us" with every tiny tool because its obvious where the items came from!!!. you are trying to help customers who are not gunsmiths by trade. for that i applaud you brownells even if i have never ordered anything from either you or your competitor. well not yet anyways and i know who i will be picking :) happy holidays brownells staff.
That’s funny.. I’m actually looking to remove the modular gas block and replace it with a A2 front sight gas block. I guess I’ll watch the video backwards! :)
Also many gas blocks of the low profile design have a set screw directly beneath the gas port. Many barrels also come with a indent for said set screw. For other types, such as clamp on, measuring and witness marks is the best thing.
There are oils that when you prelube those pins that they do indeed come out that easy sewing machine oil is a very good example of an oil that will seap into the pin holes to allow for lubration of the pins after a few minutes
So I changed up an m16a4 upper to a low profile gas block (well my gunsmith did) but now I have this small little section of barrel that is in the white showing, that the new gas system doesn’t cover up, I was wondering if there was a way to re-finish over that small section or, if there was anything I could do, really, to not have this shiny ring 3/4 way down my barrel! Lol
I'm in in the process of deciding between purchasing an aluminum or stainless steel gas block for my AR 15, Are there any advantages of stainless over aluminum? Any feedback about this is appreciated, thanks.
No they are not. The exchange of two unknowns. Installing a gas block requires a significant teardown of your upper. By profession I am a Naval Gun Engineer. IMO you're better off learning to hand load and tailor rounds to fit your rifle. It's the reason Companies don't for example, include adjustable blocks. Keep what you got. I know SCAR come with the adjustable blocks but you must realize your introducing more variables into what's now more unknowns.
I have one picatiny gas block on my current AR. What I want to do is mound a smaller gas block on there to put a longer rail on there to cover the gas block and have a free float rail. What do you suggest?
When you say function test do you just fire a few rounds to make sure everythings in sync or do you actually go the the point of almost a "stress test"
JEW BURNER I've put close to 2,000 rounds of Wolf Polyformace steel case through my Sig Sauer M400, not one hiccup. Not saying it won't happen, because all firearms WILL malfunction, but Sig knows how to make stuff work.
@@richbradley9043 No problem. Just stick the straw inside the gas tube from the receiver end (make sure its inside the tube) and your other hand or someone else with their hand at the muzzle end. You should feel a good bit of air while you do it coming our of the muzzle end. You could also use a post it not or piece of tape at the muzzle end. Good luck chief...
an easier way to me is since its an a3 upper...just turn it upside down and put it on a flat surface like a table and make sure it it coplaner.if its not then just adjust it to where it is.
Is there really no better way to make a gas block picatinny rail like that one will be completely straight when mounting it? I'm considering doing this to my rifle for a front sight.
I hope this doesnt sound like a stupid question but with that front site, i have a 300 blackout and the gas block is already set up and to be honest i dont want to mess with it just wanted to add that style front site, is it possible to add that without messing with the gas system?
I did this recently and there are holes in the barrel left by the taper pins. Should I plug up the holes in the barrel left by the taper pins before firing the weapon?
The gas block takes the pressure from the barrel when the bullet is flying down it and sends the pressure down the gas tube to push the bolt back and eject the shell and load a new round. Technically you can shoot without one, but shit will fly upwards out of the port in the barrel and you will have to manually pull the charging handle after each shot.
For the gas block set screws, we suggest using 272 Red Loctite but be aware if you need to remove the screws you will have to heat the gas block up with a propane or MAPP gas torch to remove the screws.
We cannot confirm that this is or isn't a JP Gas Block however the JP Gas Block is very similar as are options from Yankee Hill Machine, Double Star and more
Curses to S&W for making their taper pins too snug for simple removal. So I ordered some Kroil and the orange block in hopes that I can get this damnable gas block removed/replaced.
SuperMeatMachine Smith & Wesson Pins Drive out from the opposite side than most do. If you have any type of calipers that can read the size of pin head, drive it from the side with the largest head
Basic video..but didn't give size of punches. And those pins NEVER comes out as easy as he showed them to do...I ruined a really good punch on my LR-308 because I had to beat the hell out of those pins...And this particular gun didn't have over 300 rounds through it so wasn't because of heating and cooling that much...
especially with low gas blocks available to cheap if you know where to look. and a take off triangle sight block costs more than one of the low-pro blocks. so could recoup most of your money.
