Looks great, but you need a fixed camera pole mount and a throttle mount on the dashboard. That will free up your hands allowing you to eat a sandwich and drink a beer at the same time as driving.
RCLifeon putting earnings back into the channel Dude bought a whole ass boat, motor, rented an actress, all for this video! Looking forward to the next one!
Yes. This would be my comment also: ” Y U no life jacket and paddle 🤌” It just need a little push and you foot-steer capside the boat. Anyway neat project!
I think that ESC is operating in open loop, which could mean the vibration is simply the rotor position not aligning with the coil magnetics. You could fix this with positional feedback in the ESC if it supports this, or by increasing the throttle with your speed slowly. The motor may not do well with more voltage/current as it would just saturate the rotor and get turned into heat. You could also gear it down some so less apparent torque is needed.
A brushless esc should really not operate in open loop. For anything beyond initial startup, it should immediately switch to back EMF feedback. If not, something is seriously wrong. But I agree, some esc tuning is likely in order. Or get something like a vesc, if this controller isn't already running vesc.
Had a similar effect on a mountain board build using a VESC. rough and stuttery to start off. Sensored motors cleared every thing up. speed controller has to know whats going on with the motors if you're spinning it up under load
Beware putting more power into a system where the electrical and mechanical phases don't match!! You will do nothing but damage the motor otherwise. Get some sort of feedback in there so your controller will send power to the right winding at the right time. This is why it works in air, because the motor shaft can easily keep up with the electrical signals.
Keep in mind if your lake is also "No Wake" you still wouldn't be able to have something as powerful as the one in the video. I believe they make existing electric outboards, they're just a lot smaller than what we see here. More equivalent to a 1-5HP engine
I'm no expert but likely kicked in because you broke the threshold of resistance of PUSHING the water and started to PLANE on top of it, lowering the forces on the propeller needed to spin.... If you pursue this further, I would recommend having tilt/trim on the engine mount, which will allow you to overcome the resistance and begin planing sooner a la regular boat. I look forward to your different propeller designs.... I have a 1982 surfjet (gas powered surfboard) that I have been toying with the idea of changing the impeller design but I think computational fluid dynamic (CFD) studies would be easier. As always, love seeing a new RCLifeOn video, keep it up!
i noticed that too, it also happen on my model RC boats, you gotta let the props "Grip" the only sure way is to start at slowly and let your speed build up
Trim engine down, increase speed until the bow comes down, then trim up in increments but not too high where the prop blows out. A jackplate will also allow you to raise the entire engine up, the goal is centerline of lower unit and prop in a straight line with the very bottom of the transom
Once you are on plane, you need less torque and the motor can speed up to a higher rpm. Still lower pitch/bigger speed controller is probably advisable.
It needs the right ESC before the propeller pitch matters. It seemed to have plenty of power with the original prop. The speed controller is the weak link at this point.
A high speed prop will cavitate severely if it's spinning fast but moving slow through the water. This happens just around the point that the boat hull "climbs up out of the hole" or transitions from displacement to planing mode. It takes much more thrust to go through this transition than it does once on plane. Cavitation causes chaotic low pressure zones (vacuum bubbles) behind the blades of the prop momentarily reducing friction and thrust on the blades, so the opposing force on the blades, drive shaft, and non isolated motor translates to heavy vibration. Once on plane the prop is more balanced in rotational speed vs forward speed and the cavitation is greatly reduced. This happens with combustion powered planing hulls as well, but the combustion engine builds torque more slowly, has significantly more mass along with shock mounts to the enclosure so that it absorbs most of the vibrations.
@@Axel_Andersen Today I have spent half an hour swimming in the sea without life vest, outside of an official beach i.e. no life guards. I do it almost every day in Summer, and I’ve managed to survive for almost half a century. The rivers OP’s navigating seems very narrow. Pretty sure they gonna be fine even in the event of rapid unplanned disassembly of the boat, by swimming towards the land.
dude I've been waiting for this follow-up video for what it feels like ages, and let me tell you I am beyond happy at the fact that you was able to get everything dialed in and for this project to be such a success, cheers.
Lots of improvements available to be made to the setup of that boat. Ditch the foils on the outboard, and raise it up as much as you can. Get as little of the drive in the water past the transom as possible. Looks like there was room to raise it at least a few inches in some of those shots. This will reduce drag of the lower unit. If you can get it up high enough that you can run half the prop out of the water, that's even more efficient and you might be able to go back to the big prop. You can also move some of that battery weight backwards. Having it forward of your feet is forcing the hull into the water and slowing you down. Remember, water has 800x the drag of air. Fast, efficient boats touch it as little as possible. You want air to carry that hull over the water at higher speeds.
..You can add copper tubed cooling system around the motor that could use the Lake's water to cool down...the faster motor goes ..the faster water enters from the channels and cools the motor down and transfer the heat to he lase it self...! sounds about right...! :)...nice build ñamaste~
I've had similar issues, I built an ebike which had a LOT of inertia. I think that's the main issue. I was able to solve it by using FOC in VESC (like the VESC 75300 ESC). Basically, if you want to get rid of it you need an orientation sensor. It's the motor cogging, like an rc truck does when accelerating.
For a watertight and strain-relieved cable routing to the motor, I suggest you to use a punch and die set next time, so you can fit a cable gland. They're inexpensive and up the quality of the build quite a bit! :)
For sure seem to be esc sync issues during load. And when you get up to speed it can catch up and sync and run. Had same issues on one of my atvs i built. As soon as you got over certain speed it was dangerous and could easily go on back wheels :D
FWIW the fardriver controllers from Aliexpress have been really spot on and trouble free for me. Fast shipping and not crazy expensive either. The 96v680a controller I run was about $350 usd. Run it at 117v and 240 line amps.
When you had the motor cogging I thought "man, if only it could get up on plane. Then it would probably run a lot happier" then you did 😂 Also the camera in one hand, throttle in the other, foot on the wheel. 👌🏼 Peak human performance
I built an electric outboard many years ago for my sailboat. I determined that the loses in the outboard gearing was rather large, like 20%. With a gas motor, not a big deal, but with an battery powered electric, every loss really matters. The right way to build an electric output is to put the motor in the water and direct drive the prop, no inefficient gearing and direct water cooling. That was a cool little boat. I had a 15ft Hydrostream viper, not that small, but it was similiar, wish I still had it.
I would love to see you take it to the next level! Now add some foils to help pick the bow up higher out of the water which will reduce drag on the boat’s hull. Less drag equals more speed. Loved the video!
Experienced lake-person here: you really should attach a linear actuator (or equivalent) to allow the motor to tilt fore and aft. This would help the boat get up on a plane much more easily (tilted aft / aka lifted a bit up towards the surface of the water) and then can be tilted fore (aka down, deeper into the water) to increase your speed once your boat is planing.
That's great! I think that the best method would be to increase the motor rpm with the speed of the boat. That means, when the boat is already faster, then a faster spinning propeller would move perfectly through that fast moving water and would give you a seamless thrust. In comparison, when the boat is not moving, a fast spinning propeller would just have big problems... And the acceleration from the standstill might be slower. You had that, you mentioned it in the video. So, you could use the full rpm when the boat is already fast enough - to go even faster ;-) ------ Hmmm... when the motor rpm is too fast and you think, the boat could be faster, meaning, you think, the boat speed is limited by the motor rpm, you could use a little bit steeper propeller. Start slower from a standstill and apply higher rpm little by little as the boat gets faster and faster. Oh and do you have a plan in case the boat catches a wave (maybe at high speeds) and sinks? Just for safety I guess it would be good to have a plan for that... Can you swim? Do you have a second boat for the rescue? Or do you stay close enough to the lake shore to swim over in case you need to? Just be prepared...
So cool! Some physics about boats. When you were going along at less than full throttle the drag was across the entire hull. On a boat you have to get past that point so the hull lifts more out of the water. Remember drag is computed on a hull as D = 1/2*fluid density*velocity^2*Area*drag coefficient. So, more hull in the water is a huge deal. You may find you can actually reduce power once you reach a certain point and maintain the speed (until the hull drops back into the water).
Along with your content just being A+ tier. I find it so surprising that so many memes concepts and jokes from a country I don't even know about translates perfectly well to America/english
I think you still have an Problem with the ESC. You can hear it with the Spin up from the Motor. I would recommend you to use a VESC like one from Flipsky for Example the 75300 wich hase a peak Current around 28kw wich should be plenty enough. But with the VESC you could Program it much better den with the one you have. Do you have the USB Configurator for this one?
I can second VESCs. I’ve used them on mower decks and yard tractors and it does an amazing job of giving you feedback and in general mapping motors well. I’ve put some very high startup loads on my motors without them desyncing like yours seems to be. Not to mention the software makes it’s a breeze to reprogram them using saved profiles for different uses.
Lol, I love how you carry the bucket our partially full of water, then use a hose to fill it up the rest of the way, then pick it up FULL and put it down on bricks right next to it!
Having a SEP-EX golf cart motor, this reminded me of the saying "Separately excited " its was excited, you were mostly excited nun the less another great job, try a piece of wood under the motors saddle to get it up more A few inches off the transom will be a good start, this will get you going much easier you may even get the other prop back on and go even faster, if it don't cavitate it can go even higher up! shoot for just the prop in the water on plane if you make a third foot you can mark it with a sharpie @ WOT LOL Cheers Simon awesome channel you have, I look out for your content on the regular. so chop chop 1Million Subs are around the corner "also the motor clamps need to hit the transom not the wooden jack plate, you will only miss once" till next time>>
Try replacing the regular boat engine with a Jet Boat impeller setup. It'll be way smoother and you can jump onver logs and other debris in the water with no problems. A hydrofoil option would also be interesting from an efficiency aspect. A flying wing with a rear prop at the back should lift the whole boat from the water. Can be attached to the existing motor setup relatively easily. Your girlfriend is like a Norwegian version of Maddy from Cletus McFarlands channel. I hope you have a happy life together. She seems like a keeper for sure if she is willing to help you with your RU-vid vids.
We are definitely cut from the same cloth! Love your videos man you’re literally doing stuff i wish i could be doing just like i eruptions be doing it. Love it! Keep doing it!
RCLO fans... can we just take a moment to appreciate the FOOT STEERING this man is pulling off? yeah some of us have done that before but while controlling throttle and a camera with the hands at the same time is just epic
You need to trim the motor so the propeller is further in the water and pushing the nose down. The reason you had success after holding the throttle on was that the boat came on the plane. This reduces the drag of the hull significantly and therefore the power required to move the boat. If you can get the nose down more you’ll plane faster and go faster once you’re there by getting the back end of the boat to not sit so deep.
Now to make it faster, get more of the haul out of the water. At a givin point, you will need alot more power to go faster. All due to the the drag on the haul. Nice work!
I think what you’re experiencing is brushless ‘cogging’, essentially when there’s a load the speed controller expects the motor to be spinning faster than it is and de-de-syncs. You ideally need a sensor motor and ESC
Nice work, looks good. That vibration is probably cavitation from the prop spinning fast. It would be interesting to see that go with the original speed prop.
Maybe it's not all due to the ESC, it could also be that, at that point, the shaft that drives the propeller from the motor hits a critical speed, which is an angular velocity that excites the natural frequency of a rotating object, so it starts to vibrate a lot, and once it surpasses that critical speed it stops resonating and doesn't vibrate so much. The critical speed of an axle depends mostly on the loads applied on it and their distribution, it could be interesting to do some calculations on that to know if this is the problem or not. I don't know if this is what's causing the problem or it really is an ESC issue, but I just want to give a different point of view because sometimes we're all too focused on something that's not the real problem, and another ESC will be really expensive. I hope this helps, great video as always!
The issue isn't the quality of the speed controller. It's that you're running with lots of load in sensorless mode. I had the same problem with a 2,000W 190kV drone motor belt-driving the wheel on a bicycle, and it's commonly an issue on brushless RC crawlers. In sensorless mode, the speed controller has to just assume the slip ratio (how far the electrical signal is in front of the physical rotor). It can also get a pretty bad reading of it from the back EMF generated by the motor. You can temporarily bypass the issue by slowly ramping up the throttle, so that while the speed is going up, the resistance doesn't exceed the limit where the electrical signal gets an entire tooth ahead of the rotor. This is what you achieved at the end of the video. Most large motors like this include sensors within them, using a little JST plug separately from the 3 big phase wires. You can also add your own hall effect sensor by gluing it to the stator.
If motor heat becomes an issue you can cobble together some kind of water cooling to cool off the motor. You wouldn't really need an electric pump, just the movement of the boat in the water (an inlet at the front of the outboard, and an exit ot the rear) would be enough.
The outboard might still have a water impeller and piping which could be reused. Add some copper tubing coiled around the electric motor and exit out the rear of the outboard.
where the keel meets the transom is the sweet spot for the prop or just below that, if you get it going much better before we see it I expect a super Dave Osbourne suit for good measure
I like the music in this one. Very Beverly Hills Cop. You need to build more stuff. I love all the videos. Can't wait to see what you come up with next.
