Built to suit Dyno for the Most Powerful Two Stroke Ever 

When my brothers kids comes over I'm done after 30min and I'm a welder so I'm used to be in a noisy workshop all day but that's nothing compared to noisy children in my opinion. Even if to noise is lower than an angle grinder it's so much more stressful.

Congratulations! Balance is key in all aspects of life, don't forget that once you go half time. In other words, try not to turn your situation into a 'full time in the shop' and 'half time at the kindergarten'. Keep things reasonable so you don't burn out.

I sympathise with you so strongly on what you say about working too much at the kindergarten. I don't work with kids (feels like it some days) but just trying to fit in enough time for a day job and doing something you're really passionate about is hard enough, without a wife, dog, family and friends who I'm missing out on time with. I wish I could afford to give you enough to do whatever you wanted, you really seem to care ☺️

im glad you showed the video that eaven the best could make mistakes and is prowd enough to show it to your fans.

It's always a good evening when these videos come out. Good inspiration to do things you want to do.

Kids are fantastic but yes they can be very stressful too man! You have it figured out. You always find a way to satisfy yourself. You also never take no for an answer-you work around the problem which is admirably fantastic! Absolutely LOVE your videos-whether it’s building a 2 stroke or building a log cabin! Keep that camera rolling so we can get a glimpse of your life. It’s awesome!!

I think the kids in your kindergarten are very lucky to have benefitted from your presence. Sometimes though you have to take stock and make changes to protect your own health and sanity. I hope it all works out for you.

Keep up the amazing work, i’m sure your as much of a role model and an inspiration to those kids as you have been to me since I’ve started watching your videos. Ever since the first time I saw your RU-vid channel, not only have you shown that hard work and dedication bring the best results, but that you should never let go of your dreams no matter how impossible they seem. I can’t wait to see All your hard work come together, and I hope that one day I may be building two-stroke engines along side you.

Those surface ridges are typically due to the head not being perfectly trammed, not the vise.

Congratulations on half day job... #milestone

Put a Dove tail on your vice jaws and on the stock material to hold better or do not use a vice clamp it is a fixture with pins to keep it from shifting under the cutting load.

Keeping your parallels in place to stop 3:33 can be done with a piece of steel banding, the sort of stuff that's used for palletising stuff, acting as a spring between them. For the vibes, can you set up a continuous variation of motor speed, say 100rpm ± around your target speed? That can help reduce resonance issues. Also, reduce your cut depths, and maybe try your surfacing with a shell mill rather than a piddly little endmill. Also also, remove less material on the mill - try to get stock that's closer to the final size, cut and drill a maximum of material away up front (whilst keeping workholding ability), both of these are much faster than milling. If you have drilled holes, you may be able to do these up front and then through-bolt to the table (or sacrificial pallet) rather than buggering about with a vice that doesn't appear to be doing very well. Making a set of pull-down jaws can be useful, as well, you sacrifice some clamping width, but theres a massive gain on downforce - look at www.shop.santool.de/media/images/org/2822_0.jpg and I'm sure you can work out how to make a removable set for a "stock" vice fairly easily.

Love yout postings...Salute from Arad-Romania!Big fan 2 stroke motors!!!!

I wish you good luck you'll get it figured out

Yeah clamping down these kinds of parts straight to the table will help a lot.

Hello from Canada! I love the videos, I’m kinda a racing junkie, i raced two stroke motorbikes in the past. Now i race two stroke go karts so the power is intriguing. I hope to travel and drink a glass of scotch with all my youtube friends.

Get an assortment of different length springs and use them under your work piece to put outward pressure on your parallels to hold them secure against the vice jaws. Or some times you can use rubber bands around each parallel to hold them tight to each side of the vice.

I feel that you may be cutting too aggressively, on the CNC. It's hard to tell, due to the sped up footage, but if your vise is slipping, and there's nothing wrong with the vise, it's speed and depth of cut. No hurry, cut slow and shallow, get a better finish.

It's great how you teach the little ones your philosophy. Awesome!! 👌👍🍺

My friend I'm glad to see you have that old dinosaur milling machine working like a champ Harald fairhair would be proud after all he did drag that freaking milling machine across many continents until he couldn't drag it no longer and there the milling machine sat in beautiful Norway for all those years until you purchased it my advice is name the milling machine Harold

When I was in Jr High and High School I would have loved to have someone like you as a mentor. Just talking out my you know what but you can do a lot of good on kids a little older. Helping Kindergartners is fantastic and noble endeavor but as a former police officer I can tell you that you could easily turn some kids lives around just by showing them these skills and giving them an example of how a man caries himself, work ethic, ect. I imagine kids there have many of the same issues as the ones in the US. Whatever you do will be a great success, take care and thanks for your hard work.

When you ate done with the land speed record for 50 cc, I'd love to see some power-saw content, maybe collab with someone like bucking billy ray? Two different types of 2-stroke geeks and 2 different audiances, i'd also lova to see a powersaw cut when it's been in your hands first👍

Balance is everything Kids are for Christmas 2-Strokes are for life

this is the way

this should be part of those kids education. There are many lessons here even for 7 year olds. I was able to understand the principles of engineering drawings at about that age simply because i was exposed to it.

When you face plates in Your mill you should make the mill do all cutting from rigth to left. Makes it more precise. And nicer finnish. Because off spindel rotation.

I Look forward to your uploads dude, keep grinding. Your content Is top notch! 👌🏼

Climb! All the time!

Love the hard work!

I love the way you approach things...You'r doing a great job... Than you!!

Thanks much for sharing 🙏🏾

Can’t wait to see the figures on the thing. Genius as ever!

Im excited to see what's ahead mate

I suspect those bumps/roughness on the faced surface may be endmill deflection as it loads up and tries to "climb" the cutting surface rather than that much movement or deflection in the workpiece. Something like a 3/4 rougher mill (looked like and er32 collet in the machine?) might really help out in keeping things from getting bendy on the spindle side. Or leaving 1mm or so and running a high stepover finishing pass to give some prettier and wider milling marks (also with a larger endmill ideally) though this will likely shorten endmill life a little.

Love the channel bro ✌✌ been watching for awhile now

We ran a 26 cc engine on similar model engine fuel. Except for the carb, it was set up the same as for gasoline. The 15% nitro ran fine. However 40% nitro burned the plug electrodes off and dented the piston and sleeve on the way out. The engine obviously needed to be re-tuned for the nitro fuels, but we weren't particularly interested. Good Luck.

I love the honesty

I’m happy to hear your personal thoughts on your job and how you want to be at your best for the kids. Quite Nobel of you.

Can I make a suggestion? When I have overhanging stock on the second operation like you had. I don't worry about the facing cut first. First I put a profile cut standing off the finished part below. Cutting this straight down in in Z with a smaller endmill to part off the stock. Than in the Cam software just face the material above the part. Than your facing cut wont need to cut all the air cuts. I'm assuming your are using Fusion. It might also be good on your machine to use a adaptive roughing strategy with small step over to rough face off the remaining material. This puts less load on the part and holding style. Putting a final finish pass (Say around .010" or .25 mm in Z) with a larger step over, could also help for the bumps in the passes on the face. Just a thought.

I enjoy your videos your a very knowledgeable young man

good on you for wanting to be the best 'you' so you can perform better for everyone. cheers for the share mate.

Congrats bro on the work situation. And congrats on not crashing the machine :D

We’re always glad to see whatever content you manage to post, so don’t worry about us. :-)

Good on yah

Good times coming up then :-) Looking forward to the upcoming videos! Cheers

I rarely comment but thought I would now, keep it up I enjoy watching you learn and succeed.

Maybe you can try "superglue cnc" trick, to shave off that extra machining and flipping parts.

Fun project !!!! and terrific to be part of; if even as a spectator on the side lines (with own builds happening) :)

You need your own TV show, full time payed for and equiped with the machinery you need. Would be so cool! Anyway, when you're done, and it's a success, what's your next main project? You probably have an idea stuck in your head, so let me add one in there... a multi-cylinder 50cc two stroke ;-) Wish i had such a cool teacher when i was young, lol!

The extra oil will help during break in.

Spring is coming/here!

Can't tell a lot about what you where actually doing when machining there. For what it is worth in my experience using a commercial rigid router for aluminium (not as rigid as a dedicated metal CNC for any metal but probably a little more rigid than your lighter duty CNC) is that razer sharp single flute carbide cutters for aluminium work great. Depending on your max rpm capability you might need to feed appropriately slower. With the single flute and its sharpness there is less chip load engagement and the single flute gives loads of chip removal clearance. Leave 0.5 mm for finish pass cut also or less if your material removal cuts still allow a good cleanup. On featureless flat surfaces you can't beat a cleanup cut with a fly cutter. With lighter CNC's you get back what you put in to giving it every chance of a good result, is what you soon discover.

Nice video 👌👌

Good vid lad

love it!

Get a hard rod run an eighth of an inch or so the length of the width of your jaw put some sticky or some other means to hold it parallel to the top of the jaw halfway down as you start to tighten the part give it a whack on that side with a dead blow. Then tighten the jaw, the part should stay put. Cheers!

Great video's, keep it up! I'm a fellow 2 stroke enthousiast and though i don't have 5% of the knowledge and capabilities you have i would like to get your thoughts on this idea: if i understand correctly, the piston ring only expands in the combustion area, above the exhaust port. So how about making a cylinder where the exhaust port starts to slightly move away from the piston as it moves downward after combustion and making the bottom of the exhaust port slightly v-shaped or round? In my wildest 2stroke dreams i would combine this with a thin piston ring that sits on the lower half of the piston, just below the exhaust port, providing some extra stability for the piston making it less likely to tip over in the exhaust port when moving upwards and maybe creating a better seal when it comes to pushing the gasses upwards.

even sped up I can tell your feed rate is a bit high. That and check your tool weights. Make sure they are balanced (ish). Out of spec wobble can totally banjax your chuck and guide rod. The world shattering vibrations are a heads-up trouble is on the way.

Dude if you can put some tooling holes in your parts two dowel pins and a counter sunk hole for a bolt below the lowest machining plain and you do the whole part in two ops.

Top man. All the best from North Nottinghamshire. Still pushing your machine too hard. Take care, be safe and good luck

1/2 time happy...awesome vid.

Gøy og høre !! Hadde vært kult å sett en am6 rekord på en 2strokestuffing oppgradert hebo pata negra eller maston revolution sylinder, etter denne motoren 😀

Have you considered investigating the Tesla value for the intake(s)? That'd be really interesting if it worked.

After this two stroke is done and successfully making big hp numbers I would love to see your skills applied to a 250 or something bigger but still two stroke!

I'd rather small videos weekly then waiting a couple weeks for a longer one. 🤘

Only one tap on the part with a non bouncing hammer ( with sand in it) . If you tap your part multiple times with a hammer, on the second tap the part bounces back on the parallels and it will not be seated properly...

in the 1970s the 50cc 2-stroke reacers could hardly beat the 2-cylinder 4-stroke 50cc engines from honda. Building a 14 cylinder could be very successful in addition to being extremely interesting.

Gday mate. Still loving the content and the bold move of going pretty hard at the RU-vid channel with reducing work hours. Just signed up to your Patreon, it’s not much because things are tight but hopefully with a heap of pledges you can get out there full time making interesting content. Keep up the great work. Cheers from Jim in SA🍻 🇦🇺 😄

This is COOL! Great work!! Where are you located?

when your parallels shift and not clamped by your hammering then you can be shure its caution to rigidity.. :D did you even make a finish cut ? :D dont worry about your tool life. let her run smaller steps, or only reduce the feed rate.. if your spindle makes 6000 rpm try about 1000-1500mm/min in the finish cut. :) But im only working with modern mashines now.. they make it so easy to get good surface.. great work. i love watching your channel

I get it, my kid is 6, and I am working at home full time, while also trying to homeschool him and it's so hard, it's such a strain on me and my mental capacity and I know that being able to spend time with my instruments or working on garage projects would help but I am just so mentally out of it that I don't have the motivation. I don't know how teachers of young children do it. I have a ton of respect for you being able to do so much with your channel while keeping a full time job.

You could always mix your own fuel/oil by getting hold of premium oil used in go-carts synthetic caster ? Just my 2¢ mate ! ;-)

why not make the holes first on the milling machine and then the outline? then you have better and more precise holes and also more clamping force.

I thought i was slick cause I spotted the nitromethane in the bottom left at the end then he said he bought some

wheres the log cabin?

You know I was thinking those Nitro rc engines they make a lot of power because the fuel consists of nitromethane, methanol and oil, and the way those engines are designed is a pinch type clydiner and piston so there's no piston rings the compression is from the clydiner pinching the piston and was wondering what if you took that same design and just upscaled it to 50cc

You're effecting the world either way, although trying to inspire children can be very disheartening sometimes. .you're a good man..❤️

I'm interested in building a 100cc 2 stroke diesel, my question is how to go about scavenging the exhaust.

Those shifts doesn´t need to be a clampingproblem, i would say it´s more an effect of an not rigid machine. Yes your 'spacer' came loose, but with my machine at work that wouldn´t cause vibrations. The planar cut on the top plane, try to always go in the same direction, example from right to left, do not use dynamic cutting that lets the cutter go i 'circles'. And just overlap about 1/3 of the cutter. In milling the contour: I would say you need to lower your cutting depths, like about for a 12mm cutter, you go as most 3-4mm deep. then save about 0.1mm in the contour of the piece, and go go back fine cut it with full depth. You have a very 'flimsy' machine and cannot do milling as bigger sturdy machines can. Och på svenska:(kan inte ordet på engelska) använd ALLTID medfräsning vid konturer, det skapar mindre vibrationer.

Was thinking about the nitro engine build, I predict 0.5Hp - 50Hp butt cheek touches the saddle - 0.2Hp no fly wheel or torque. But possibly a big number somewhere? Good lock both engines very interesting.

Two stroke jedi 💨💨💨💨💨

Have you made snowboard’s the woden thing under your desk looks like those things that shape the boards when they are pressed together. 4:25

how do you program your cnc? maual with G codes or some Cam software?

You're grabbing the cnc stuff by the balls man. Stay on the buzz and go forward. 👌👌🍺🍺

So I was thinking about it, isn't your carb and then slide intake resemble the low speed and high speed needles like on a nitro rc car engine? The slide being the high speed and the carb being the low speed?

🤘😎🤘

Totally out of scope question, but what yeans and suspenders are you wearing? Thanks!

👍

I hve 2-stroke 860cc engine that I have used for hillclimb (stock dragrace, snowmobile), is it the same principle with chamber resonance / power ?

I want that motor In my moped😂😂

Are you going to use nitrous?

It's frustrating when you get hard work near perfect then mess up a simple hole position. Weld the hole Place it in the rite spot You have your cutting machine flying. Good job After all that Drill the mounting hole in the wrong spot. Find it very frustrating even when it happens to someone else

Anyone knows if a 90degree intake would affect airflow or something

Hey mate if you run rc 30% nitro in a 2 stroke that runs 25/1 oil Do you still run 25/1 or less oil cos nitro has oil or do you still run 25/1

I need more top speed out of my 125cc moped should I put heavier rollers in it

Hey man, how was your exhaust calculated? It looks very very long for a 20.000rpm engine. According to my calculations it should only be about 50cm long. That is with an assumed exhaust duration of 183°

Triangulate your vernier measurements from the holes edge, then offset the circle by the vernier amount, 3 ways makes no error. Keep trying.

Question (sorry if you've already covered this) wouldn't you get more power if you went for overhead exhaust valves and then supercharged the motor? (Maybe even electric supercharger - a real one not an ebay special)

A dyno with two belts. Hmmmm, accurate?