its like making genuine content, posting non click bait titles and delivering the same style video every single time generates loyal viewership over time XD
Well, if he does ever get a sandblaster, he will use it on one episode then a couple shows later he will have the biggest baddest beef-blaster money can buy! lol
That tractor was actually considered an "orchard" (I don't know why) tractor, and never came with the second shift lever for a high/low range. Your bush hog DOES require that top 3rd link, and you'll find it will handle better if the rear wheel on the mower spins freely in addition to rolling; it currently seems to do neither. We had a '65 2000 that had a few less horsepower than yours. I believe my brother is still using it. If I remember correctly, up right is 1st, down left is 2nd, down right is 3rd, and straight up is 4th - they didn't want people to be able to shift them on the fly. If I remember correctly, the arms should lower more than yours does - I remember ours nearly touching the ground. We never, ever had an issue with the tractor. Hope this helps you a little.
The exhaust on the bottom is for driving through orchards. The low gear is probably mainly intended for 'tillage' work. There're probably lots of orchard tractors in NY! 🍎🍏
I use a heavy length of chain instead of a top link. that way when you travel and go thru a low place the tail wheel can follow to ground and not bend the top link.
I believe you have the pattern correct. Top right is 1st, straight back from there is 3rd. Top center is 4th, straight back from there is 2nd. Top left is reverse. Interestingly, those tractors have no speed markings on the tach; instead, they came with the gear pattern and a table of speed at 1000, 1500, and 2000 rpm. Here are the numbers at 2000 and you can ratio to get the others. 1st - 4.0 mph 2nd - 4.8 mph 3rd - 7.0 mph 4th - 14.8 mph R - 4.2 mph. (Surprisingly fast for R)
@@johnsadler8637 yes , we really suffered sometimes with the high reverse speed, too fast when gearbox is in High, but too slow in Low. No, tachometer was pretty standard in older tractors, you'll simply feel when you were to fast, when you flipped the tractor anyway.
@@brucepickess8097given he lives in the salt belt if that thing goes near any salted roads any non complete sandblasting and prep n paint would be worthless anyway. slap some paint on there and run it, he's got like at least 40+ machines to keep running aint got time to overhaul each and every one. Look at the front axle wobble on that tractor. The suspension is in much more dire need of attention than a proper paint
As a photographer, your shot of the new "blue" tractor (46:20) right after the rain showing the mountains and sky in the background is very nice. Always a treat to watch your videos.
There is a metal bar that goes between the bottom three point link and that pin under the fender, one on each side. They are called stabilizing rods, or stabilizing bars. They help keep the implement from swaying. You might want to look into making some, then do help a lot
I use stabilizing chains attached to my top link pin and the implements pins. Works better because if you have a weakening hydraulic system, once you adjust the chains the implement stays put because the chains hold it up.
To stop thecsway and make it easier to hook up equipments, add chains from the fenders bottom bracket to the side of the lifting arms. Much like the bigger farm tractors use.
Not really a popular thing on the 1965+ tractors.. that was an N series thing, this tractor was built after ford saw sherman making money modifying their tractors.
Sherman made over- and underdrive transmissions. Never even heard of one on a tractor newer than a Jubilee, though. Certainly not on a thousand-series like the one in this video.
@@mwilliamshs Not sure exactly what my dad has, I'm thinking mid 50's 8N. The trans has a low and high side that the operator would pull up or push down on shifter handle to select gearing. Couldn't really tell if Andrew's tractor has that kind of shifter. Great running little tractor.
Andrew! Thanks for the closed captions. We 80 year old fans of yours can't do without them Thanks for the entertaining and instructive videos. Give Cody and Blue a treat from Great Grandpa Mike in Virginia!
What I find most amazing is that the people who watch these videos seem to be a bunch of very normal straightforward people (from reading their comments) without any of the weirdos out there which is very refreshing! Hats up to all of us watching these fantastic down to earth Andrew vids which really are marvellous! And thanks to Andrew who does a lot of work filming all this stuff! Thanks man
Move the 3 point pins to the inside of the mulcher instead of on the outside. That way you can set your arm restraints and leave them set. It also allows you to always back right into place on all your 3 point attachments.
On the back of the Bale chopper, there is a lever that adjusts the feed rate of the straw into the choppers. The one your buddy mentioned before that ate the bale in a couple of seconds had a broken pivot pin on the lever that set the feed rate to 100%. It looks like the setting you've got yours on is also set very aggressively, hence the belt screeching and less-than-civilized feed rate. I was laughing at Andrew yelling "STOP! STOP! STOP!" to Cody when they were attacking the hose. That damn thing is almost $900!
@@AndrewCamarata the 30-foot hose from Goossen is part number PT319-01. List price is $851 (plus tax and shipping). It looks like you ended up with the 50-foot hose which will be more. ALSO Your smaller Ford tractor will run that thing WAY better than the new big tractor.
@@Jehty21 I tried that.The version that works/lasts is thicker but also has the spring steel wire molded into the plastic when the hose is made (this makes the inside perfectly smooth so the straw is less likely to get clogged and also shoots farther). The cheaper versions are thinner with the wire inserted into the hose as a separate part. They come apart under this kind of use very quickly, get clogged easier, and don't shoot as far. It's painful but it's what works.
@@Jehty21 6 inch uv rated hoses are stupid expensive once you have them in your hands. OEM indeed charges about 1000 bucks for them. Aftermarket units that are UV stable and tough enough to handle worksite straw blowing abrasions for months at a time are still in the 500-750 range for 30 footers. Before shipping or taxes... And you'll be replacing it yearly if you actually work it.
It Is nice to see someone work hard and not using foul language constantly, and as an added bonus, I actually learned something from this young man. Probably my favorite RU-vid channel. Thank you Andrew.
He's a gold label dude, and it reflects positively on his parents and how they brought him up. I've been cursing like a navy Man since I was in second grade (not in meetings at work tho. Nope. Never. But he really keeps it clean and together. I could learn a few things from him!
Good video.I bought a 3000 and 4000 new in 1971. Really good tractors. They came with a 4 speed transmission with a high and low range that gave it 8 forward gears. They also had a differential lock that worked very well. I am still running the 3000.
if it had the 4 speed with the over/under gear it should be to the left of the shift lever, and it has to be stopped to shift between them, and it was offered with just a 4 speed without the over/under gear, which is what this one is
great job as always and a pleasure to watch, never knowing for sure how things will turn out. you are a master at creating unique interesting RU-vid video stories. along with a lot of hard work and determination along the way that makes it satisfying to see the results of your efforts.
You should have the top link on with the rotary cutter. Adjust it so the front of rotary cutter is lower than the back. So debris is directed out the back side. I usually set the front of it 2” off the ground. Make sure the back wheel is always rolling never dragging. The lever for the 3pt hitch should have an adjustable stop, once you get the front of the rotary cutter where you want it, slide the stop up against the lever. Now it will always be at that 2” mark when you set it down (or whatever height you want) Check the gearbox oil as well. They sometimes take on water. It’s usually a gear oil that goes in there. On my old tractor you can take the lever right out of the Guide if you need to lower the 3pt hitch arms to almost hit the ground if needed. Some tractors have it some don’t I guess. Just mess around with it. You’ll figure it out. Also it must have a hi and low range. I could be wrong. But I would imagine so… Awesome video
I think i see 2 holes on his 3 point where the hydraulic rams can be moved up a notch. That would give the arms more throw i think, but possibly make the hydraulics overloaded.
Like ants to sugar, I watch every single video that Andrew posts, without fail, and the longer the better🙂He continues to impress me with all that he knows and does, and just his simple logic to everything. His work ethic is outstandings, and his parents must be very proud of how they raised him. He is amazing. thank you Andrew for the work you do and all that you do to get these videos out..
Did you know ants farm?! There is a species that farms colonies of fungus they have domesticated, and another species that farm herds of aphids! They clip the aphids wings so they can't fly away, and then extract a sweet liquid that the aphids produce from eating plant sap. I learned this today and was mind blown
Don’t leave that hose out in the sunlight or you will be replacing it . Just a heads up because no matter what they tell you the UV rays will shorten its life .
Ya gotta add the cup holders! In HS, I acquired a white 4 door 67 Fury III w/ a 4bbl 383 v8, from a little old lady in Plains PA, swore it was only driven to the local Acme market on Saturday and on Sunday, to mass at Sacred Heart Church and the cemetery next to it (thanks Grandma!)… being smack in the middle of central NYS and the lake effect snow belt, the use of road salt means every year, it’s a constant battle of salt-rust and anything metal….every spring, for 3 yrs of HS and 4 yrs of university, that beast received a bondo rust repair service and a fresh coat of rustolium white paint, applied via a 3” roller - all procured at my local True Value hardware store….
@@wannabejeeperit will float if you use the float function of the 3 point hitch. That's why there are two levers. One is height adjustment, the other is float adjustment. Drop it all the way down and let it float. Definitely needs the top link so you can raise it up off the back wheel.
From a post by Red Paint in an AG forum: A 3000 transmission can be: 8-Forward/2-Reverse, 6-Forward/2-Reverse, 4-Forward/1-Reverse, 12-Forward/3-Reverse (4-Speed with Over/Under), 10-Forward/2-Reverse SELECT-O-SPEED,The 4-Speed and 12-Speed were only available between 1965 and 1970. They are pretty rare, as is the SELECT-O-SPEED. From Ford data sheet: The four speed has top speeds of 4.0, 4.8, 7.0, 14.8 mph. From Stevens Tractor: the four speed is an H pattern with 4th top left, 2nd bottom left, 1st top right and 3rd bottom right. Looks like you purchased the SS version of this tractor which was built to move farm implements very quickly.
My uncle had a FORD 3000 with the SELECT O SPEED over 30 years ago. Tractor spent more time in half than it did in the field. His Ford/New Holland dealer said they were a problem.
I think part of the equation too is the rear tires, it appears to have 16.9-28's. I have a 1973 3000 withe the 8 forward and 2 reverse and it has 13.6-28's, I've seen 3000's with 14.9-28's but I'm thinking the 16.9's are a bit big!
Andrew. Your top link on your Ford 3000 wants shortening so the straw blower sits level. Also when attaching a machine to a tractor: First connect the arm without the levelling handle. Next, the arm with the levelling handle. Finally, connect the top link. Then you can connect the PTO. I love your channel and watch every video, N.
when you took that left clam shell fender you took a bracket off the bottom that had a pin & R clip, thats for a flat stabilizer bar that goes back to your 3 point lift arm to stop the swaying.
After having pulled apart a bent pto shaft with a slide hammer I made out of rebar a rock and ratchet straps, I was very satisfied watching you pop that one loose with the excavator. Much smarter!
The tractor needs (missing) sway bars that attach to the brackets under the fender mounts and also a center link for the mower like the one on the spreader. enjoy all your videos.
These things have *SOOOO* much more value than their usual price tag! I've had friends with small farms say, "I can't afford to buy one of those." I said, "You can't afford *_not_* to buy one of these!" After 2 more years of trying to work with a John Deere lawn tractor, he gave in and bought one. That was 8 years ago and he paid $1,200 for it and put another $300 in it and to this day, it's gained value better than anything except the actual farm itself!
Depends. It could have several different transmission. The early model was the Strait 4 speed. In 1970 the Strait 4 was replaced by the 6 speed in hi lo. During which an over under transmission option that gave it 12 forward and 3 reverse. The most common is the 8 forward 2 reverse. And a 4th option, the selectospeed gave 10 farward powershifts and 2 reverse ones.
@@tommywilliams5135 Think you're right about the tires. They are a bit tall for that tractor, in my opinion too. Or not. But the tires seem to go a little higher on the fender than is helpful. Probably get a lot of road spray on the driver.
After my father passed away my mother got someone to renovate his 1962 Massey Ferguson 35 tractor. He repaired the rust holes in the fenders which were full of holes. He later learned that the fenders were still being made and would have been far cheaper to get new ones. The MF 35 and Ford 3000 were very close in specification and intended market.
Great littlevtractors. They just keep going. But the do need a rollbar added and there's supposed the be a second gear shifter so you have high and low gearing. Some even have an third shifter for hare and tortoise.
Yes, but the Massey 135 was more of a contemporary of the Ford 3000 than the 35...135 was styled more like a 3000, the 35 still had that old "8N-9N" look to them...spec wise, I don't think there was much difference between late production 35's and 135's, but I like the look of the 135 better by a country mile...
@@stefanjohansson6670 There's some Australian dude on RU-vid who's doing a series on restoring / fixing every nut, bolt and part of a MF 35. Very interesting stuff.
My grandfather has a ford 4000 but it had 2 shifters where yours only has one. There was short one and a long one like you have. The short one was for the high low range and the tall one was for the gears. Love your vids boss!
Same as the 4100, I had. That looked like it had a carb on it when he was painting, it'd be petrol and pregnant not have the torque of a diesel version, hence only having the 'road' gears.
Great video, thanks! Awesome 20 footer paint job...reminds me of when I was a kid in the 60's and my Dad would paint my Grandad's old farm trucks out in the backyard using a sprayer and air compressor and touch it up with a paint brush because it didn't need to be perfect, it was a truck for work.
0:48 This is the best explanation of how someone got something ever!! It's quick and simple and I just love it. I was looking on Facebook marketplace and now it's here...
Swap the tires to something smaller diameter to slow it down. The fact you mentioned the 3 point arms don't go low enough tells me someone put taller tires on it to begin with. Tire diameter goes a long way with tractors and mph. Also may wanna put calcium in the next set to help with traction.
Love these old tractors, you can fix them with a hammer. We have a Massey Ferguson 35 that my dad bought new back in the day. Still using it to do small things as the implements are very cheap compared to getting something for our bigger tractor. Also to stop the arms swinging at least on our tractor you can put bars that go from the back axel area to the holes in the arms. So you attach the bale shredder on then you'd put them on to hold it in place. You can see the connection point at 35:44 I think. For God's sake Andrew turn the tractor off when going anywhere near the PTO.
On your tranny to the left of your gear stick there's a cap. It looks to me like there was a slow/fast shifter option and this came permanently locked in the fast setting. Just a guess, I don't run tractors or anything myself. I know that for example New Holland sell tractors for grassland work that are geared for speed as opposed to tractors for dirt work that would be geared for torque.
You should definitely have the top link on with the brush hog. It lets you pick the hole thing up when you're crossing weird ditches or going down the paved road, etc. That rear wheel will get beat to death if you make it carry all the weight-- I always float the deck slightly above the rear wheel; and it just touches down every now and then, but doesn't drag the whole time.
I have 1952 Ford 8N tractor. Runs great. I use it to grade my gravel driveway and skid logs for firewood. I use stabilizer bars to keep the hitch from swaying back and forth. Needed them for a boom pole and scraper blade. I did not want a log swaying back and forth. Low gear is too fast in my 8N. I thought the later model Ford tractors had slower gears. I am surprised that 3000 series will not go really slow in its lowest gear.
I think the diesel versions had more gears. I used to have an 8N(wish I still had it), my biggest gripe with my 8N was that reverse gear was too fast..WAY too fast..made it hard to maneuver in close with the scrape blade without slipping the clutch all the time. Wish it had been a little heavier, too, as even with liquid in the tires, it would spin too easily when trying to pull something heavy, like a vehicle..had plenty of power, though. If I even had another 8N, I would want it to have the Sherman step-down auxiliary transmission...
Nice work. If you get some flat bar you can make sway bars. They go from the mounts under your fender too the hitch pins. And there should be a lever beside your three point hitch control that controls your draft limit
Andrew, you might have noticed that the bracket under the mudgards has a pin with a clip. These were for sway bars to be fitted one on each side of the tractor and connected to the bottom pins of the implement. There some that are adjustable and others that were just flat strips with holes in each end to suit the implements. Cheers keep up the video’s, like watching them here in Queensland Australia
I have always known them as check chains or stabilizer chains. They work like the ratchet load binders having a left and a right hand thread to shorten and lengthen them. As you said David one end goes on the pins under the axles and the other on to the lift pins at the implement. Adjust with the implement fully raised and leave a little slack. As for the tractor itself we bought the diesel version new in about 1968 or 1969 and had it for a few decades. Andrew if your model has the battery over the engine keep an eye on it as the engine heat tends to boil away the electrolyte so it needs regularly topping up. Also the park brake pawl wears out and can let the brake pop off without warning. Happened to my dad and the tractor rolled back over the pasture harrows puncturing both rear tyres in multiple places. Thankfully did not roll over him. Also some of the early models had an issue with the pressure line from the hydraulic pump blowing out the side of the transmission. Happened to us twice before Ford bought out a modified seal and retainer that fixed the issue.
@@ecclesmilligan8712 Most the smaller 2000-3000 fords used flat stabilizer bars that had no adjustment other than the flex of the bar itself. Atleast most of what i have seen in the US. The bigger tractors 5000 and up and maybe the newer tractors like the 3600 used the chains. I bought a 3600 that didn't have any stabilizers, and just put a set of bars on it. They work fine for most my applications.
@@IndependenceIron Our Ford 3000 diesel came with adjustable outer check chains on both sides, but being in Australia it was probably the UK version as these tractors where never manufactured here.
@@ecclesmilligan8712 We had an old Fordson SuperMajor that was UK built and it too had check chains. Not sure why so many US machines have the bars. The chains are a better design in my opinion.
It's nice that you think the tractor was purple , but it was actually pink , lol . Looks 100% better now . And you notice how it doesn't whine anymore since you painted it blue , hahahaha . Another well spent hour with Mr. Camarata . Thanks Andrew .
Those plates that came off the bottom of the rear axle, has rods for stabilizer bars that you put on with the three point hitch, to keep the implements from swaying.
Hey Andrew get a set of stabilisor bars. They will keep this type of equipment from hitting your tires. Check on the left side of the tractor just ahead of the clutch pedal, you should find a short shift lever that gives under drive, direct and overdrive. You seem to be in over drive . If I remember right this will affect the pto speed as well. Be careful out there !
Since you always strap your cargo down, I saw a dashcam video you'd laugh with. The video showed a pickup truck, with a loose clothes washer in the bed, pass them on a single lane, and get behind the car in front. The car brake checked the truck, so the truck braked and the unstrapped washing machine slid forward and fell into the cab rear window, shattering it! =)
Man, just the tires on that tractor are worth 1000$ lol, 2600$ for the whole thing is a freakin steal lol😄 it looks like one of the shifter levers may have been deleted and capped .. that hole with a bolt in it in the shifting cover right beside the shifting lever looks like you could stick another shifter in there
Looks like Ford Empire Blue alright, more appropriate than that “Malibu Barbie” color 😊. We have a ‘72 Ford 2000 and a ‘78 Ford 4600 on our farm, both still workhorses. Great tractors.
Andrew, you’re an intriguing character, you buy a pink tractor, hookup an implement I’ve never seen (and I grew up in the country side) and you mix great views of your neck of the woods, with fun tractor stuff. You live in God’s country mate.__thanks for the great content
Whomever built that spreader copied it wrong. The little tray on the back is supposed to have a hinged plate that swings down from the vertical part, forming a platform where you put your bales. If memory serves me right, it's supposed to be 3 segments, folded in a zig-zag pattern. You have the option for one bale width, two, or three, depending on how much you open and unfold the thing. I guess it got lost in translation...
That spreader looks like a complete clusterchuck. That hose looks eminently clogable/kinkable, and that spinning loading port makes zero sense to me. Not to mention that 'tray' thing. I'd just grab an abandoned hay rake.
@@ericfg806 the goosen bale chopper was and is a great unit. THIS IS A COPY I believe. I have used the 3pt and the self powered unit for years installing yards. DStill have the powered one- going on 30 plus years.
@@ericfg806 I experienced similar with a gas-powered fiberglass insulation blower. Wrong and poorly maintained in soooo many ways. (it came free if you bought the bales from this hardware store. I brought it back and showed them what was wrong, but anyhow a week later or so I got the Electric blower DESIGNED for these bales and it worked better, didn't leak fiberglass all over tarnation, and I was done with 45x30 in about two hours (balancing on rafters to avoid punching thru the cieling).. as the original gas powered one I had to give up in about 15x30' in the same time as it was just a poor method. I'm suuuuper glad I'm done. R36 for 1800 sq. ft. It made a RADICAL difference in temperature regulation. But that's a story for later.
I too have an older Ford tractor , a 1968 4500 , industrial tractor , painted yellow , front end loader , and a hoe that you can slide from side to side , or center, and lock. A diesel , with a 2 range trans , 2 stage clutch , pto , then trans , etc . maybe one day I will have an excavator. Those tall tire increase the speed , they are not stock , and are oversized=mph. Great content.
Who owned that tractor before Andrew, Pepto Bizmol? Andrew always makes it right !!! I'm glad it has a good home and a new paint job, well done Andrew!!!
Had to do a double-take when I saw two Andrew's putting the ramps up on the trailer... 😂 Smooth piece of editing there! Congrats on the purchase Andrew. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing! Watching you takes me back watching and helping my dad fix everything you could imagine. Your honest editing pulls me in. Not 1 of us humans is perfect. Keep it up Andrew!!!
Watching him paint that tractor took me back to how I would colour my toy cars in permanent marker. I would make a total mess of it! That said, I cannot criticise the man. He's an increibly resouceful and skilled man, so what if he doesn't want to spend the time to properly mask up and paint something - he's certainly got much better and more interesting things to do.
The clover leaves are broader which shades the soil and conserves water for the grass as well. The only downside is that weed killers will kill your clover.
Another comment about the top link on the mower... I used a short piece of chain as the top link on my 6' brush hog. I had some uneven ground and with a rigid top link it would scarf the top off of any mound. The chain allowed the front of the brush hog to flex a bit over those mounds, keeping the topsoil and grass intact. Nice tractor. Stay well, stay safe!
I had a 1967 Ford 2000 for a while, pretty much a twin to this. It also did not have a high low range and all the gears were too high. I bought it for $1,000 with 5’ shredder and nice box blade that had counter balanced ripper teeth that you could raise and lower with a handle. I put a new fuel pump in it and painted it and sold the tractor and mower for $1,500 and kept the box blade!
great show. next time you paint some rusty metal get some rust converter. like Rust Prime, or OSPHO are two brands I have used. it will convert the rust and create a seal. Then coat with paint.
The angle brackets on the bottom of the rear axle that the bolts for the fenders go through are to keep your three point arms from swaying. Once you hook your lift arms to the implement stabilizing bars will go on from those pins to the brackets under the axle. 1/4 or 5/16 by 2 1/2 flat bar with holes in each end is all you would need to make a couple.
Stay bars are sold at Tractor Supply. Measure pin to pin and take that number with you. There are subtle bends that make the bar work better. If your forward pin isn’t directly in line with the lift arm pivot, just use one Stay bar.
Soy Fabian desde Mendoza Argentina 🇦🇷🇦🇷 Me encantan todos los videos de Andrew... Se nota que es una persona muy honesta, sincera y que disfruta con pasión todo lo que hace... Felicitaciones...!!!
Yeah Andrew; My old "47 Ford 2N is the same way. 1st gear is always too fast. It typically tries to drive faster than the blade can spin (or keep up) on the brush hog. The best thing I've found to account for it is just to idle the engine way down. At lower RPM's, it doesn't try to take off so fast, and if you just baby the clutch, it will typically still have the torque to do what you need it to. These were made back when they ran things at much lower RPM's in general.. not long before they had steam engines that were chugging along a 100 to 200 RPM. Counterintuitively, when you rev the RPM's it wants to go faster and puts more load on the brush hog blades and makes it even harder to deal with. The lower RPM you can get it to work, the better, typically. I'd love to figure out a way to add a lower gear though... Other than just adding smaller tires.
Andrew, I’ve watched all of your videos and this is the first time “I’ve gotta say “ please don’t be anywhere near that PTO when the tractor is running”. We want to keep you around. Nice Ford.
I believe you can change the gear ratio, lots bought with different gears speeds for different uses, most had a 2 different gears, hi and a low. Your right about that Andrew.
That tractor is what my uncle had for his farm. Bought it brand new. If I recall correctly, it was beige/off white rear fenders and hood with red pinstriping. I could be wrong as it was more the 50 years ago. The odd thing tho was that my Uncle was a strictly Chevy guy when it came to cars.... AS always, thank you for all you do!
I remember watching some very first equipment videos you made. It's amazing what your hard work has lead to . A long way from the first bull dozer you bought. My favorite one is when you bought the big international dump truck . Rock on dude . See what I did there
We have the same exact tractor. One of the things I know is relatively common is if they ever need to rebuild they often put a Ford 4000 crank shaft in the 3000. Its an easy swap and you get more power which in your case appears to be what happened. Takes some getting use to.
