Buying a used Audi A7 (C7/4G) - 2010-2018, Buying advice with Common Issues 

different car review audi

I bet my life on it, that you are Hungarian!!

I used to hate it, but recently ive grown to love it

I totally agree with you man, but avoid the 1st gen and buy the facelift instead! Me and two of my friends had a bad experience with the 1st gen!! But l still think that it is the best looking sport sedan till this day! 👌🏻

What year you think is the best

@@estebancarrillo6141 2015 +

@@deaswe6448 can you please explain a little bit of your problems and your experience??? I’m also looking for an A7 but I hadnt got any audi before for now I have bmw 4.28i xdrive. What should I pay attention when I’m choosing it and did audi changed something important on facelift except the appearance.

@@premium2554 It is an amazing & reliable car that you will totally fall in love with it when you own one. But the most important thing in my opinion to get a 2 - 3 years warranty with it, because the spare parts are realy expensive even here in Europe! I advise you to look for one with low mileage & a few former owners, and just AVOID THE 1ST GENERATION!! It has a problem with the 7-speed gearbox (NOT THE 8-SPEED) My car was 2014 (the 1st gen) and I had a failure in a part in the gearbox, and the cost for fixing it was around $ 4,500! This part called Mechatronics, and the problem was that the car vibrates when geared at a low speed! 🥴 The funny thing about that is that many of my friends warned me about this malfunction in A7s 7-speed transmission before buying this car, but unfortunately I ignored their advice!🤦🏻‍♂️ Anyway, Audi has fixed this issue with the facelift.. so you don't need to worry about it if you buying a facelift. but if you are wishing to buy the 1st gen, then I recommend the eight-speed transmission. I own a Volvo V90 today, but if I ever decided to sell it, my next car would be the A7 again, but the facelift no doubt! 😅

Thanks!

thanks!

How your repair & maintenance cost? I’m about to buy 2017 26,000mi A7. Should I buy it?

@@teemo988 ....bought mine through an Audi dealer with 3 years servicing and breakdown. Recently had an MOT. The only fly in the ointment is rear tyres. Both of mine failed with 5mm of tread because the inside, rear wall was delaminating. Unfortunately, it's a fault with the Dunlop tyre, although I suspect it may just be the fact that 21 inch rims and ultra low profile isn't well suited to the width and weight of the car. Otherwise the car is a magnificent beast. If you do lots of short journeys, the Diesel Regeneration Unit kicks in occasionally so I have another car that I use for short runs. Just covered 31k miles. Good luck.

@@andystreet4022 guess what I’m trying to ask you is the car reliable? And does it break down with expensive repair bill? A lot youtube video kinda scare me.

@@teemo988 .....without wishing to jinx my ownership, I've had 14 months of hassle free motoring. I'm afraid ownership of these types of vehicles comes with drawbacks if you encounter a lemon. That said, mine was a £60k car when new and I bought mine for half that with one previous, fastidious owner. What can I say.

had one for 4 months lag effect was killing me went back on bmw

it's the voice

Bloom0to9 why are you selling?

@@owascoshaw to get the new C8 maybe?

What did u buy at the end? I habe the same problem, A7 2014-2016 or CLA45 AMG 2014-2016. Thank you!

krucho master which one comes with the factory lowered suspension?

@@iJustB58 This one has the air suspension system. No issues with it so far

I’m planning to buy one. Do you have any advise for me with your experiences???

@@premium2554 Check how worn out are the disc breaks and also check if the air suspension works fine. So far 0 issues since 2013, great reliable car

@@kruchomaster6234 thank you so much🙏🏻 Was it yours 8speed gear?

ffffffffffffffffffffffffuck I really wanted this car until you just said this. I had to do this repair on my 2003 Nissan Altima 3.5... absolute pain in the fucking ass

What year does this? I am considering this car or sticking with honda

It's called "look up the maintenance report to see if they did it"

I had to do that on my S4. It took the shop 15 hours just to take the engine out. So that's 30 hours of labor just going out and in. Very expensive job. Tension guides for these cars are garbage, luckily Audi made new better ones but they still recommend changing every 100,000Km.

those are the 26 words i was looking for...lol

Did you find it???

It wasn’t a standard feature. It was option. You can have the led illumination but not the illuminated door sills

Which model is your car and what engine?

A7 3.0 T 2014.. had the tensioner replaced as warranty clain

How much does a job like that cost?

already got an error on Reverese gear. got fixed by replacing the mecatronic and the clutch as well as the tensioner for almost 10K usd under warrenty

@@tariqa5655 wtf!!!! Love the look of the A7 but I think Imma go the Lexus route.

Norbert brilliant did you get the a7?

CHRISGOTTA100ROUNDS yeah did you?

Too many miles

What about 8speed tiptronic?

It’s in the trunk on the right side.. peel off the panel take it out and put it back in. It should work-then.

How did you solve it?

@@premium2554 Soo , the issue wasn't the dpf or the pressure sensor , but the injectors. Somehow this was failed to be mentioned when my car was being diagnosed, so i demanded a full refund for everything they did. I did change my pressure sensor , but this didn't help with anything , but still a good choice to replace , since the values were a bit off. Payed around 1100€ for 6 new injectors and a shop changed them for brand new ones. No issues since , now it's tuned to 400+hp 900nm torque and at 173k km now.

@@premium2554 Also , the funny part is that the tuning shop was the one who told be the injectors are bad , like 30 seconds after they plugged in their laptop. Noone was able to tell me this from the vw dealership and 2 independent mechanic shops.

definitely check for short rattling noise at cold start which disappears after 1-2 seconds, it usually indicates a worn timing chain tensioner and changing it is expensive since the whole engine has to come out at this mileage there should be no other issues, just change all the fluids according to the chart at the end of the video and make sure the car is in a good condition with proper maintenance history

@@differentcarreview-dcr BMW 6 GRAN COUPE VS CLS VS A7 which is more relaible?

Not anymore! It's around $20k

It really depends on the year you're looking at and the specific models. I own a BMW 750i with the same N63 engine as the BMW 6 and have studied the 6 extensively before buying an Audi A7 TDI Prestige. I would say that the Audi would be the most reliable, but ironically also the lowest build quality. Unfortunately, I didn't like the CLS550 and am not too familiar with it. BMW 6 series - Going with the 640i would definitely get you a much more reliable engine, but the standard features drop down a tier and BMW requires many standards from the 650i to be added as an option on the 640i. I've found BMW is really good for cold regions as they have a great undercoating and use lots of aluminum. Even the 335i I had barely rusted. If you get a 650i, do NOT get an older model with the N63. Get the newer 2013+ model with the N63TU as there are many improvements that save on very expensive maintenance. I have the original N63 in my 7 series and have invested over 100 hours rebuilding the front end. ...it's the most enjoyable car I've ever owned, but it takes a lot of work and the gas mileage is really bad. Audi A7 - The TDI is the most reliable with the S7 and RS7 having similar issues as the 650i. (This is mainly due to introducing turbos inside the hot V cavity of a large V8.) The regular supercharged A7 seems ok to 100k miles, unless someone tuned it and treated it poorly. Coming from a few BMWs and a Mercedes, my biggest issue with Audi is how they cut costs. There is a LOT of cheap plastic on the interior of such an expensive car, the sound system is just mediocre, body panels are thin, steering is painfully numb and the subframes are cheap steel that rusts easily and don't provide that much torsional rigidity. You also have to watch a few maintenance parts like wheel bearings as many of Audi's OEM parts aren't that great. BMW and Mercedes generally use better suppliers. That said, you can usually find better quality parts (like SKF bearings) if you work on the car yourself. As a long distance daily driver, the Audi A7 has given me minimal headaches, the cargo space is really excellent and I've hit 42MPG in my TDI. Their technology implementation is better than Mercedes and BMW in some areas, but I do prefer how BMW upgrades software and iDrive. (Audi is a pain to get firmware updates for modules and only updates single modules when there are problems related to a TSB.) ...also keep in mind that the A7's residual value has been much higher than both the Mercedes and BMW. If I were to pick between the 6 series and the A7 again, I'd likely get a fully optioned 640i (but those are nearly impossible to find used and even harder to find at a reasonable price). Just my opinion, but hope it helps.

Thank u so much. For taking your time. u really helped me out. u answered all my questions and gave me even more info I didn’t even know about the car. Thanks again!

I'm looking for an A7 2015 or cls 2014. What do you guys reckon? Thanks!

@@TechnologyUnboxTV did you end up buying the A7?

@@TechnologyUnboxTV cls

Does ur alarm go off randomly ?

Servus! Bin momentan am überlegen, mir einen a7 (2013er mit 80k km) anzulegen 😁 Hättest vielleich den einen oder anderen Hinweis, was ich beachten sollte? Lg ✌🏻

What u mean with 3x ? I’m looking for an A7 s-line .

@@D7REX sry für die späte Antwort, eig nur das der Vorbesitzer immer wenn sein sollte das Service gemacht hat sowie das alles Original bleibt wegen den Verlust. Fahre jez schön über 1jahr den 245 PS tdi und kann nichts negatives Sachen.

@@premium2554 S-Line Exterieur S-Line Interior S-Line Selection

8 speed

@@differentcarreview-dcr Thank you very much...

did you find out any info

No, I’m located in Canada. It’s a rare car, no one has much info on it!

Principally, new lights, engine power upgrade.

Michael Cruz look at the condition of the brake pads and rotors as they are known to wear down quickly and make sure you get the fuel line recall fixed

High pressure pump, get fluids replaced, check parking aid system

8 speed is the ZF "traditional" torque converter box fitted to many many cars (from Range Rovers to BMWs). 8 forward gears + reverse - it's a great gearbox. Only used on the BiTdi diesel and (I believe) the RS - they simply have too much torque for the 7 speed s-Tronic Dual Clutch (i.e. it has traditional clutches rather than a torque converter). Audi claim (in the UK) that the ZF box is sealed for life with no oil changes needed, my experience with a ZF6 (C6 A6 3.0 Tdi quattro) makes me call this BS.. I changed it's oil at 65k miles and it sorted out a few unpleasant gear change issues. Getting ready to have the oil in my C7 allroad BiTdi changed.. Interestingly in the US the 3.0 Tfsi supercharged A6 (and I suspect A7) gets the ZF8... in Europe it gets the 7 speed s-Tronic. Not sure what that says about the s-Tronic.

Thanks for this explication , so in any case when it says 7 or 8 speed is just going straight and wihout reverse , that is what i wanted to know because i wasnt actually sure because the majority of my cars and my father’s have been manual. Thank you again for your time and for your help .

under 50 km/day (31mi)

different car review is it okay to do 10/20 km in a day from time to time?

By the way, this one has the 7 speed S-Tronic gearbox.

the 2.8 FSi is a good engine a couple of things what to look for: -the engine has to be really smooth on idle without vibrations in the interior or fluctuating RPM -make sure all the fluids are topped up, check the brake fluid = if should be bright yellow (if its dark then it was not changed for a long time) -check the coolant as well but only when the engine is cold, open the reservoir cap = the coolant has to be topped up, pink and without oil traces or oil smell, if there is oil in the coolant then run away -obviously check the engine for leaks -check for strange clunking, rattling, squeaking, humming noises from the suspension + it's good to open the windows and listen for these noises at lower speed on bad quality roads too since the interior is well insulated from the suspension noises + test the car at highway speed = it should ride smoothly without vibrations / shuddering, and it should also brake smoothly from all the speeds without changing direction -obviously test also the gearbox, it has to change gears smoothly without clunking, shuddering etc. But even if its ok then I would highly recommend to keep extra money for repairing it since the various parts in it-but mainly the mechatronics control unit can fail even at 100 000 km. However it can also last way over 200 000 km with regular oil changes and not very aggressive driving + its better to avoid cars with tow bar since towing stuff with this gearbox is going to shorten the lifetime of the components in it -use only premium fuel, change the oil in the engine after 8 000 km and check also for a short rattle at start up which can indicate worn chain or tensioner

@@differentcarreview-dcr man thank you very much for all of this. I've taken note of everything you said and I will check the car thoroughly. Just one more thing: does it say in the owner's manual that you should change the gearbox oil? Because on these s tronics it has to be changed every 50k km max. And I hope, that because he has done servicing only in the dealership, that they've changed the oil in the gearbox at least 2 times by now(as it would normally require)

Are you happy with it if you got one? Can you share your experiences please...

@@premium2554 I ended up not buying it. I bought another car instead. This one had high fuel consumption for my needs because I changed jobs and I am now driving over 35.000-40.000 km a year.

Franco Palomares yes. Try to get with new brakes at that mileage. Oh and minor issue with fuel door getting stuck. WD40 is a temp fix but can be replaced yourself.

Timing chain guides, fuel rail issues, catalytic converters going out for 3.0T. Head light computer errors.

Did you get the car? How is it?

How did you solve this problem??? And what kinda noise are we talkin about? I’m planning to get one but Idk how can I notice that sound.

@@premium2554 ,A mechanic only can understand that,you have to ask for it.My Audi Uk extended warranty covered that .(I pay £480 a year for that,and is a must,every year) But it costed 6.500£. Also other A7 owners that I have spoken to have had the same issue,other warranties have covered that too(AA warranty)

In US, it would’ve been covered by emission extended warranty due to Diesel gate. 10 years or 120K miles.

@@Otrebor0707,2015 and after model are not included on diesel gate,at list not in UK.I have called solicitors and asked the question.

😅

No it doesnt, come on!

Yes it really DOES!.🤣 did u listen this with critical ear ??😂

Concentrate on content ;)

You shouldn't be laughing at his accent when you can't even spell English correctly: "...listening TO this..." you should have written, not "...listening this". Funny that you laugh at someone for his accent, ignorant.