There are several different timing chain guides behind the front cover on the M119 engine, not just that single guide at the very top of the chain that you touched with your hand. I've seen them disintegrate into dozens of small pieces which all end up in the oil pickup tube. It's the main thing that scares me about *OLD M119 engines!*
Yes they can get very brittle but not usually a major issue. I know lots of people with 200k that had never changed them. But yes there are guide rails as well as the upper guide. I’ve only changed the upper guide on mine since I’ve heard that’s the one that breaks down. I need to look into changing out the others. Thanks for heads up.
@@petescarport NP. The plastic oilers that feed the hydraulic valve lifters have the end-plugs break off at an alarming rate. On any normal M119 today nearly half will no longer be delivering oil to the lifters (the reason for "the M119 valve tick"). Except for garage-queens almost every M119 I've popped the valve covers off of have broken timing-chain guides and enough slack in the chain to jump timing at any moment. It's enough for me to recommend buying a timing chain kit for every higher-mileage M119 car I've serviced. I have seen many M119's grenade themselves over the last 3 years. If you want bulletproof buy an M112, M113, or an M111.
Good stuff! Za called me the other day for an oiler tube too. I'm gonna shoot a vid this week on those oiler tubes. Those breather hoses are a royal pain in da arse. They become petrified. You're better off buying a couple of aftermarket hoses and cut'em down to size as those OEM hoses are hard to come by. I just picked up a Launch x431pro. Let me know if you need some diagnosing.. ✊🏼
I thought it was 15/40 but 20/40 would make sense too. For some reason the only oil it called for in advance autos screen was 5/40 and autozone had same and in stock. Issue is finding some of these oils in stock. I couldn’t even find a 15/40 at any store. But thanks for the fill in. I will do a little more research but oil pressure seemed great after we did oil change
@@petescarport 5-20 works, but in the summer heat it turns to water basically and doesn't lube as it should, so use a thicker viscosity, if i could upload a photo id show you the oil tempature ratings for the w140.
@@drewone08 I used 5/40 in it. That should be good I’m guessing since it will be a thicker oil at operating temps. If I can find 20/40 i will use next time. I also sometimes add Lucia oil stabilizer. I’m thinkking about adding it
Is that mass air flow sensor in the second car black and plastic? They don’t make the metal mafs anymore and it’d be nice if those worked as a new replacement.
Hey Jeff great stuff and very detailed content. I have the same 98 with the same issue and am going to tackle the cam oil tubes soon. I have the original rims and tires on the one I have. Do you know what hammer size rims and tires will fit on this SL500 other than the original 16 inches that are on mine now?
@ Pete's Carport. I have a 95 r129, changed those cam oil tubes along with the oil change and also the oil pressure sensor. I live in the midwest and only drive it during the summer months. Right before I put it up in storage my oil light comes on about 4 minutes after starting, Oil Guage stays on 3 but every once and a while it may drop during idle but goes to 1.5. I read you guys talking about oil tubes coming apart and stopping oil flow. But you have if it's possible for the pieces to reach the oil pump and clog
Your oil pressure sounds fine. It will drop to 1.5 when fully hot and idle in most engines but should rise to 3 when giving it throttle like you say. If your concerned with the oil light that is most likely a bad level sensor located in the oil pan. The oil light should come on when car is about a half quart low on oil. Hopefully that’s what your referring to unless I missed something else.
@Pete’s Carport Thanks for the insight. I will pull the oil pan and check out the level sensor. Hopefully the oil light goes out then. I've seen a video of the oil pressure sensor under the oil filter. Did you do a video on the level sensor in the oil pan?
Looks like a m119 engine the upgraded one before the m113, I have a 96 sl with the exact engine. I believe the tubes are genuine from what I've read on forums, the aluminum ones are pretty expensive but are recommended rather than the plastic ones. Really like to see these repair videos, never know what might come in handy. I have a ticking noise in my car and thought it might be a cam oil tube but it's more of a dull sound, not so loud as in the video.
Still could be a tube. When the gaskets get old on the oil tubes they rattle. Since we didn’t change them all I can still hear a slight noise coming from the motor so we’re going to change them all for him
Believe it or not, reading some MB history. The plastic oiler tubes where the upgrade to the aluminum tubes. Apparently MB believed that if there was a blockage in the aluminum tubes there would be increased pressure and cause issues. So they changed to plastic tubes so that end cap would blow out of over pressure and not let any major issue ensue possibly that would happen with the aluminum tubes.
You can either order online or even get from autozone. They are called cam oil tubes. If you need more help message me on instagram. Same name. Thanks for watching
Those metal ones are the original design, they actually downgraded to the plastic after 93' I believe, they are like finding gold now a days to a sense!
@@petescarport yea I think URO has a bad wrap on a lot of parts but in general if you pick the right kind of stuff they’re fine. Plus no one else is making them besides Rausch but they are a lot pricier, have to at least be thankful they’re in the space.
