Love your work Paul, Im at that stage where I am thinking, do I jump into an EV yet or not. your video's have almost talked me into the BYD. Thanks for sharing your work and knowledge with us.
Well I'll say this, the BYD Seal has been pretty straight forward and logical as far as it's put together. It doesn't look like they're trying to do everything themselves and reinvent the wheel like Tesla. Also, given that pretty much everything is made in China, I don't know why people are getting upset about a car made there.
Haha ace videos and quality workmanship! Greetings from London. Love the fact you've got a 24 bit/96 kHz quality DSP and you could stream 24-bit lossless ha ... that's gunna sound better than most peoples front rooms lol
Ahh it makes sense now what you're doing with the stock speaker wiring and also feeding in some of the factory audio as an option into the head unit - to mix in the incessant blips if you need to (for whatever reason). I love that you installed the head unit underneath the passenger seat, that's a real dead space in most cars. Is there more room there for other gear?
Stupid question - but for a average user - what if the speakers are just fine but the problem is the amplifier. So if you just upgrade the amplifier and increase the related fuse. What do you think about that if I do not want to touch the existing wring too much? I am mostly worried about the output volume rather than the quality of the system.
I have not done anything like that for many years. As things keep changing, just wondering if an installation like this affects the warranty of the car at all.
Hi man. Nice videos. Love what you are doing for the community. Few questions: Name of the apps showing in the videos? (meteo tv...) When you are using the hilvl from stock stereo the volume is lower or not? I am looking for a similar solution but i want to keep stock sub and stock speakers in general (also center and rear speakers) I want to add/swap only an ampli. What do you think will be the best solution for this job? Audison forza m12.14 (stock sub will be underpowered?) Audison forza 8 channel with some bridging since it lack 4 channel? (maybe in combo with stock ampli?) Really looking for your help mate :)
Thanks for all the work and showing us! Maybe I missed something, but how do you drive 12 speakers (that were originally present) with an 8-channel output; and drive 2 subs with the M1D which is 1 channel? Was wondering which furthermore amplifier you would recommend if one is more fan of class ab sound?
The centre dash speaker and back parcel speakers are useless, so they're out of the equation. 8 channel amp for 4 doors, mono for the subs.... the real subs. The box for them is looking good, and there'll be a video on them and the amps soon enough.
thanks, that's good to keep in mind. Might take my own Seal for the upgrade to a garage, not as much a handyman as you are. Will stay tuned regarding the amps!@@TallPaulTech
As Homer Simpson said it: If it's worth doing, its worth over doing! I just love your attitude and workmanship. I also chuckled when you mentioned raspberry pie...😂😊
Ludicrous feed RU-vid channel who reviews ev cars in Australia, he asked byd, and they said you will be able to disable all the "driver aids" and it will save your settings in a coming update, allegedly it was all for ancap, but I think it was just bad programming, as iv got a new cars that are both 5 stars and they remember your driving aid setting.
I'm going to eventually solder and heatshrink those cables. As you can see, it's far from done. I have to come up with a creative frame to house the 2 amps and capacitor on the right there.
Crimp vs solder. Crimps take up a lot of space and doesn’t look neat but could be staggered to take up less space. Solder can look better and compact but can be brittle if subjected to movement/vibration. I worked on systems with removable panels, we were constantly repairing the soldered joints. Soldered joints need to be completely demobilised in some way otherwise you might need to repair later. Just my experience.
Soldered joints are fine really, as all of the electronics in the car are held on by solder. The main problem with solder is for heavy components, which you'll notice usually have glue over them. Cable to cable won't be a problem. As I said in the video I just used crimps for a quick and easy to get it running for now until my heatshrink arrives.
An easy way to tell the polarity is flick a 9v battery across the terminals. If the speaker cone jumps out the positive and negative are right, if the cone jumps inwards they are the wrong way round.
That's a bit extreme... wouldn't need a 9 volt. Anyway, that would require me pulling the doors apart, at which point I'd be able to see the cable visually anyway.
I quite like the fact that BYD added a concentric twist to the audio cables in the factory loom. Nice touch. I like your workmanship. I could say more, but would hate for my commentary to be perceived as criticism. You have a good understanding of what you're doing.
Will you be super glueing the TosLink as with road vibration the TosLink connectors are bound to fall out? They do in my home if knocked though they are ancient
That yellow light that is left could be pretty annoying, i had that issue with my car, it was the blind spot radar, which required a recalibration in order for it to be functional again.
