C10 Show Truck Project: Painting the Front End-Doors, Fenders, Grill 

You can make it happen. 👍

I feel ya bud. Thanks for watching!

Wow, thanks kountry, I really appreciate the support! I’m glad the videos help.

Linda says hi great work

Thanks. I’ll keep at it. Thanks for watching!

Easy!?! You mean all the frustration, aggravation, stresssing, and overall PITAedness doesn’t show? I must need to work on my editing, lol. Thanks and will do!

@@StoutCustom I'm starting to learn about the frustration. It's takes an incredible amount of work to get things just right. Sometimes I pause on one area and jump on another just to keep my sanity...

Gd

That’s really good to know. Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thanks and thanks for watching!

Gonna try paintin mines thanks for all the knowledge

@@thabigghomie_ good deal.

Thank you!

Thank you. Glad it helps and thanks for watching!

Not mine but turning out well. Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thanks Barry!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you snd will do!

Yes! Thank you!

I bet it was a lot of work. Especially if it’s been that long. Very satisfying when it’s done though.

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Gracias

Cool. I really want to do a 4x4 at some point.

That will be really nice. Thanks for watching!

Yes, usually a good straight mixing stick or I get a wooden yard stick from Home Depot and cut it down. Thank you and thanks for watching!

I think single stage solid colors are easier for a new painter. Fewer steps and single stage hides imperfection better. Doing a two tone changes things a bit though. For single stage you would have to complete the first or main color, let is cure fully which may take several days, then tape off, resand, and paint the secondary color. A longer process but easier application. Base clear would allow both colors to be sprayed in the same session then cleared completely. Both ways will have challenges so choose which ever way you would rather it be done and just do your best at making it work.

Look under videos on my channel then find “MUST HAVE PAINT STANDS”. See if that works. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! On this one I used a SATA 5500RP 1.4 for sealer, SATA 4000HVLP 1.3 for base, and an Iwata WS400 Super Nova 1.4HD for the clear.

GM code 50 Cameo white I believe

Thanks for subscribing and thanks for watching! I’m trying to do everything I can think of to make it all match in the end. I think the biggest thing of course is to thoroughly shake it up each time before you pour off any for use. These lighter colors seem bad about separating when they set. I mixed the two gallons separately in gallon cans, put them on the shaker for a hood while, then poured them into a 5 gallon pail. It will wear you out shaking it without a shaker to put it on so be sure to have a buddy near by, lol.

@@StoutCustom I have a Sherwin Williams about a mile away. They are going to use the 5 gallon shaker on it whenever I need it!

WS 400 1.4 nozzle, trigger set full open 29psi +/- a pound or two depending on the clear I’m using.

I think i turned the booth heat up to about 90, took about a 45 minute lunch, then taped it up. Most basecoats will give you their recommended tape time in the product information sheet. I think this basecoat (PPG’s DBC) is 20 minutes @ 70 degrees. I usually try to give it a little longer just for safety. So check the info sheet for the base you are using then add a little more time snd heat and you should be safe. Some tapes work better than others as well. I’ve had good luck with fbs fine line tapes. Thanks for watching!

There are a couple reasons. Sealer window for one. Although this sealer has a fairly long window between when it is sprayed and a topcoat has to be put on, some sealers have a shorter window where they would have to be sanded if left too long. Basecoat however can be left for fairly long periods or additional base applied to extend the window if needed. Another reason is that I can see imperfections easier in basecoat than sealer and would rather sand trash out of basecoat than sealer. So on the grill for example, that is only getting blue, I can be repairing flaws while the white is drying on the other parts. Kind of a time management thing.

Generally it shouldn’t. I have seen some that were almost too sticky and made me have the same question. There are lots of options for tack rags so try a few different ones until you find one your comfortable with. Surgical Blue and Gerson have always worked well for me.

OneChoice SX394 from ppg

The FBS line of tapes has worked great for me. My preferred fine line for sure.

@@StoutCustom thanks, keep seeing tons of good PBE brands over at Canada. Cheers

There’s a video called painting the cab that shows a little about two tone.

I’ve got a kit. Comes in handy sometimes but I prefer the stick for a lot of blocking. I probably use the round block more than any of them.

Yes sir you got it! 29/30 is where I’m at with most clears. I will occasionally range from 27 to 32 depending on the clear I’m using but that 29 is usually the sweet spot. Thanks!

It almost looks like fluid and a 70-80% overlap pattern on the clear. But I have never seen an IWATA. Just judging the spray, arm movement and speed. That’s what they call “Muscle Memory”. Now, onto the Bourbon videos!!! “Gods Eternal Grain Storage”

The red tape is from FBS custom tapes. It works great.

It depends on the paint system you are using but most of the time when spraying a metallic, you will paint to get coverage/hiding then reduce the pressure, increase distance, and do what is called a drop coat or control coat to even out the metallics. So yes #2 for most paint lines.

Like as a kid, as now, I learned to watch and ask fewer questions. God gave us two ears and one mouth, so we should listen twice as much as we speak. Love your attention to every detail. In painting it shows up and reflects your work with nothing short of an excuse. As an ASE Master Tech, I would do a valve job and place every hose & harness, so the next guy could never tell. That is satisfaction, or a disease I call perfectionism! Can’t Stop!

Hey Shannon. I replied to the question you sent via email. Hope it helps and thanks for watching!

Ty

There is definitely a chance that the color could be different. Especially with this blue that we are using. Some colors are less risky but this one is of particular concern. To combat that I made two gallons of the blue which should do the entire job or if I need more I will still save enough of this first mix to paint the bedsides that will match up to the cab. I will also do the same sealer color on everything followed by the same number of coats, same booth, same gun, same air pressure, etc. These pastel colors seem to want to separate back to the colors they are mixed from so really good agitation before reducing and painting is important. So yes there’s plenty of concern and EVERYTHING matters. Great question and as always thanks for watching!

@@StoutCustom thats what I was thinking thanks.

Thank you! I replied to your other comment.

Yes just sand it clean and smooth with 40 or 80 grit first.

@@StoutCustom right on man thanks for the reply. Your videos are so informative! Keep them coming..🤙🏽

@@RicardoRodriguez-vs2rm will do!

It belongs to a friend of mine.

😶

@@StoutCustom that's my favorite thing about the SATA the overspray and there the best

@@bighorn9119 SATA is definitely a great product as well as the Iwata. It’s always user preference.

@@StoutCustom that is true it is user preference

It’s really painters preference. Can be done either way. Once the sealer has flashed off and is ready for paint, I like to get paint on top of all the sealer to keep everything in the same window. On two tones I like a lot of dry time before I start taping as well, sometimes overnight. Depending on the sealer, the window for top coating may expire and require sanding if left too long. Basecoat however is easier to manipulate to extend the window for topcoating. I also wouldn’t want to put white over everything first because it could effect the final color. There may be a difference in the blue painted over gray sealer vs over white. It would be more of a waste of paint also if it requires more blue to cover over the white than gray. Another thing would be that paint usually shows flaws in the body/prep work better than sealer. So seeing a pinhole or something sooner would allow you to make better use of your time by fixing a problem with another panel while the white is drying. I have also seen painters tape off where the white is going, spray the white, unmask and let dry. Then tape the white off on the opposite side of the hardline and paint the blue. This makes the two colors butt up against each other so there is much less of a hard tape edge. I’m too impatient for that method, lol. But like I said, painters preference. As long as you get the desired outcome….doesn’t matter. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!

It’s coming

Interesting. Most of us pull music from the same “RU-vid friendly” sources. He must have similar taste. Thanks for watching!