You sir are a savior planed on doing this on a2011 as well looks very simple to do will be doing this in the very near future .I subscribed to your channel as well keep up the great work.
I'm not going to lie, dude is a beast.. I use to say if someone else can do it I can do it to... This is a situation that I totally will have to pay someone to do it.
@@grampzquadlol... I've dabbled with cars and trucks my whole life and I still wouldn't attempt what I seen you do. like I said my man you are a beast and I normally don't give props.. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I appreciate you demonstrating the in-vehicle service. I have to do my Equinox 3.0L VVT. I was debating buying a lift for my garage to drop the whole engine. However, I am worried I might have bent valves because these are interference engines. The money I would save by doing it myself, pays for a lift . Thank you.
Just an FYI the pet cock is a white plastic bolt kind of thing that is located on the far passenger side of the radiator and takes a 19mm socket. Have to drop that sub bumper/splash guard thing that goes across the front of the vehicle. Believe it’s held on with screws that take a 7mm and 10mm socket.
Great! info Im working on 2010 srx for a friend the right side chain intake side jumped and it took 3 rocker arms checked compression on all 3 cyl for bent valves and they hold pressure and by watching your video simplified everything thanks
Thank you so much for this video. I liked and subsribed. Just curious what brand of timing set from rock auto did you go with? And did you use new phasers and vct valves? Thanks
hello i have a question about removing the chain from both banks. Do you only remove it at one point on the oil pump? For assembly, I know that you assemble a head at one point of the crankshaft and then turn to the other point and assemble the other heads there. I'm a little confused how to take it apart. Thanks. 
I have a question about removing the chain from both banks. Do you only remove it at one point on the oil pump? For assembly, I know that you assemble a head at one point of the crankshaft and then turn to the other point and assemble the other heads there. I'm a little confused how to take it apart. Thanks. 
Hey Thanks Jerry! This took a couple days. After doing it, I think I could do it in a good day now. I've done 4 cyl hondas but this was a bit more complicated. Just take it slow. It's not too bad!
I have the 2010 SRX the chains were done under extended warranty at 100K . The oil ran low and timing is way bad car doesn’t go over 15mph. Is anything messed up ? Or if I accomplish this fix will everything be ok or should I give her a one way ride to the bone yard
Hello, excellent video!! Perform the timing chain change on a 2010 SRX following your tutorial, I did it exactly as you did. But I disconnected the negative from MY battery, now the car just spins and doesn't start. Do you think it has to do with something related to the security system?
Yes. Chains stretch as Each link wears a little. This stretching is accelerated with dirty engine oil. Other factors are chain guide wear and of course chain tensioner failure. Thanks for watching!
Hi again. I got left chain on. White link in hole of idler sprocket and top marks line up with top two L’s. and it’s on timing 1 on crank. The flat spots on cam are a little off. As if I need to turn crank abit to timing 2. I think it fine. If marks all line up on left bank. What day you? Lol
Right bank? I got crank chain on now. Turn to 2ed timing mark and make sure right bank cams are flat across like left was? I think that’s what you mean
I just bought a 2010 SRX AWD. Code p0017. Changed crank censor and cam censors on right side. Still back firing through intake and falling flat on its nose when you slowly feed the throttle. Will my next step be timing chain ? I’d hate to miss something simple and go through this timing chain change.
@@grampzquad when I put the intake censor in I thought I had it fixed. But after a 15 min drive the the fuel stumbling was back. I could get the wires checked at a shop to make darn sure. But it does have 120000 miles on it. It Wasn’t at full power either on this last test drive. Always shifting down. I’d say your right. 😎
Hey I’m dealing with the same issues same year and same truck. I was thinking maybe of swapping the 3.0 engine with the 5.3 ls engine out of the impala ss. You recommend the ss engine or would you go back to the stock one?
I noticed you talked about “pulling the pin”. a few times I’m guessing you loosen the chain somehow and put a pin to hold it. Didn’t see insertion or removal in the video. Can you explain?
Thank you. So there is a process to “pinning” it when you somehow put slack in the chain to remove it? And do you put a wrench on the chain sprocket bolt to turn the cam shafts clockwise to get them flat on the left bank? Thank you so much for your help. Trying to get this car fixed for my son just starting his teaching career and on a limited budget 😊
@@BB-xq6rj I normally use new parts. So you don't have to repin the tensioners. Just turn the crank bolt clockwise to top dead center. Then you can just remove tensioner and chains.
Is there a way to lock the cam pulley to get that 3/4 bolt out? Ordered the harmonic puller and a cam lock kit. Also the flat spots on the cams on the left bank don’t line up with a flat edge. can I line those up somehow after I get the chains off or is there a better way?
Sorry I didn't show that. I don't have an air tools. But one of my best purchases is a corded electric impact. Got it on sale for $70. Works like a charm! Good luck!
My mechanic wants $4000.00 to do the same to my 2011 equinox 3.0, now I know why. I worked on my own cars 40 years, and I wouldn't touch this job! Way to much work for a shade tree mechanic... Nice work.
@@grampzquad thanks for this great video my SRV currently has the P0017 code no chain rattle. Do you thinks its the chains VVT solenoids or the VVT sprockets? Not sure what kit to order thinking about removing valve covers and checking chains first?
I'm just a backyard DIYer. I did this slowly over a few days. I triple checked everything and took my time. I'd guess it took me 10 to 12 hours. Thanks for asking!
Metal timing chains will wear at each link if the oil is not kept clean. They essentially stretch when each link gets larger. I've seen it on many cars!
I think it was around 230,000 km. I bought the car from a local auto wrecker. They picked it up from a dealership that told the owner they needed a whole new engine!! Too lazy to do a timing job or looking for big $$?
