Awesome video! it really helps. with these simple but practical small models, it's become easier to understand all those concepts. Nice comparison and demonstration!
Great vid series . Always good to freshen up on how to setup a car ... though I do want to point out that most 1:10th RC cars have way too much Grip and steering . Most of the time having a bit less grip lets you Side a bit thru corners allowing you to be a bit smoother exiting the corners . and Not rolling over .
ALSO: if you have square-edged tires (on a high-bite track ) or a rut in the turns , low camber gain/angle will cause side-bite Wich will cause ROLL-OVER.
What type of tires are those rear ones on Lazer? They seem to have quite a round profile if you look at them from the back. They also have pins all the way to the side of the tire, so even if you'd be running on the edge of the tire there is still some friction. Just wondering if I can find those from Finland.
@10:30 - So, is there a way to maintain high camber gain (I want to keep the mid corner stability), but, also a way to REDUCE the bump steer (I do NOT need more mid corner turning). I was thinking about Caster. Possibly reducing it. But, that would reduce camber gain and would not be desirable for mid corner grip. I am not thinking maybe I should Move the tire rod end and leave the camber link length alone? This would dial out some bump steer without reducing camber gain? Maybe I can shorten the camber link to reduce bump steer and camber gain? Then I can dial in MORE caster to gain back the camber gain while steering without adding bump steer? I guess this is really defendant on the car and I just need to make all these changes and plot the differences lol???
You can just add or subtract the appropriate amount of spacers under the outer ball stud on the steering link to adjust bump steer to your liking. This is tunable independently from camber gain.
You shorten the camber link when yhe suspension moves upward the shorten chamber link will rotate through its pivot point on a thighter radius inrelation to the lower arm. Thats why you gain more chamber when the suspension compress
hey doc!!!a quick question....camber links determine the final camber that the car will gain wile cornering(if i am correct),and of course it depends on the position that is mounted,BUT the caster angle does the same thing while cornering(changes the camber angle),so in case of oversteer/understeer,which of those you choose to play with first,in order to deal with the problem???
Hey there. While caster also introduces some camber gain, its impact is different. The camber "gain" introduced by caster happens as the wheels turn. It is purely a steering geometry effect. Conventional camber gain (i.e., changing the camber link length) affects how the camber changes as the suspension compresses. This is a suspension geometry effect as opposed to a steering geometry effect. Which one to adjust depends on under which conditions you are experiencing oversteer or understeer. One of the greatest errors I see drivers making is saying "this car oversteers" or "this car understeers." Okay, but where? Corner entry? Mid-corner? Corner exit? High speed? Low speed? These all impact what change you should make. Generally speaking, you would want a lower caster angle on a tight track with sharp turns and short straights. This will give you more corner entry and corner exit steering, at the expense of mid-corner steering and straight line stability. More camber gain will help you mid-corner, assuming there is enough speed to induce weight transfer. Ackerman will help you on entry before there is any weight transfer, as well as mid-corner in low speed turns. In a way, it is similar to reducing caster, but without as drastic of a reduction in straight line stability, and while also preserving the camber dependence on steering angle.
Yes, it's possible. One of Masami's RC10s actually had that back in the day for the front suspension, with the shock mounted against the caster block. However, it also had a camber link mounted to that point as well, as otherwise the caster block wouldn't be anchored to anything and would just flop around and the shock wouldn't compress. All that happens in that case is a change to the shock angle.
I have difficulty understanding difference between camber gain and adjusting my camber degree with my turnbuckle and Camber gaughe on my RC10B6.1d and b6.4d, is it only because the video is old and there is no adjustement on his camber link?
Camber gain sets how the camber will change as the suspension compresses. Adjusting camber with your turnbuckle just changes the static camber of the car when the car is at rest. That static camber is basically what the car has when driving in a straight line on a smooth surface. As the suspension moves around from jumps, bumps, cornering, etc., the camber angle will change and so "camber gain" determines how much it will change by.
@@doctormosfet great I thought that at first but trying to change it on my buggy started to confuse myself more be cause I had to make my turnbuckle longer when I changed my ball stud location so I thought I was cancelling everything thabks for answering :)
I have a question. Is there any different if there length of the camber link is remain the same but I only change the mounting position. What I mean is, if I move 2 holes inside at the tower and move 2 holes inside at the rear hub tower as well. Is there any effect of where u mount the link at the rear hub?
Yes, that will probably affect the suspension geometry. Trying to visualize it in my head, my guess is that if you take the same length link and move it inwards, it will increase camber gain at high articulation. Although the length of the link is the same, the distance between the outer link and the outer hinge pin is increasing. For small perturbations from the static condition, it won't change much, but at high articulation I suspect it will pull the outer link inwards more and result in more camber gain. In other words, you'll probably have a gain in the camber gain...
