The way I always remember it is that if the camber link and a arms are more angled toward the out drives, the car will roll less. And of course vice versa
I don't agree with the statement that a lower RC causes more load transfer to the outer tyre. In fact it is the opposite. Instead of resisting roll, and causing the load to transfer to the outer wheel, the chassis rolls, and the spring absorbs a larger part of the energy, the outside wheel is loaded less, and the inner and outer tyres are loaded more equally. This is why low RC has more grip in a corner.
As the chassis rolls, the center of mass rolls with it, resulting in weight transfer to the outside. Some of that is absorbed by the suspension and some of it is transferred to the tires. Your description assumes a net reduction in total load transfer to the tires with a lower roll center, i.e., that the movement of the center of mass away from the centerline does not result in any additional load placed on the outside tire. That would only be true if the suspension absorbs 100% of that weight transfer. The transfer of this weight is a vector. With a high roll center, let's say perfectly matched to the center of mass, all of the cornering forces on the tire are purely lateral. Thus any cornering force does not press **down** on the tire to generate more grip and so you're relying purely on the natural friction between the tire and track until the cornering forces exceed that grip limit. As the roll center drops, some of that weight transfer has a downward component as the chassis rolls, meaning some of that weight transfer pushes down on the tire, generating more grip . You could say this combines with the effect of the suspension absorbing more cornering load to result in more apparent grip.
@@doctormosfet The movement of the CG towards the outside affects load transfer less than the high RCs resistance to roll causing more load transfer. More load transfer to the outside means left and right tyres are more unevenly loaded, and the car will have less grip. This is how anti roll bars work.
@@doctormosfet the reason I believe I am correct about this, is that I am sure we can both agree that an anti-roll bar reduces grip at that end, and it does it by increasing load transfer at that end. As the chassis tries to roll, the bar lifts up the inside tyre, and presses down on the outside tire. So more load transfer in a corner results in less grip. Low RC has more grip in a corner, because it transfers less load, and instead allows the car to roll more. Does that make sense?
@@invisiblespeedrc I understand your logic. You're basically saying there is nothing going on (or very little) during cornering that would press any tire downward and increase grip as a result, or if it is happening then it is more than compensated by a loss of downward pressure on the opposite side. I am sure that's part of what's going on here; however, which one ends up actually dominating is going to depend on the tire and track surface, and how the level of grip changes with downward pressure.
I guess looking up Doctor metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor would have been tough, lol. Good info, even though I have cheap rc cars I do speed runs, so far just 62.5mph with a 1/14 the scale. I'm applying whatever I can that I've learned from you, and I'm definitely noticing the difference. I'm trying to beat 115mph so I'm going to have to take advantage of all the knowledge I can attain. I also race asphalt tracks. There's a lot more to suspension than I ever imagined, but now it's easy to understand why I had so much trouble with one of my RC's steering. I almost tore it apart for parts.
thanks for the videos! i think RC is the worst to understand as you cant really imagine the extrapolated lines from the camber links and the effect it has on camber gain is extremely complex. none the less, well explained and diagramed to explain it!
Ok, that is unrelated to roll center. How to fix this somewhat depends on the surface you're driving on, but generally, it means there's too much rear traction and too much weight in the rear. Move the battery forward as a starting point.
Stiffer rear shock springs, more upright rear shocks(out at the top), or you can also soften the front springs, or lay in the upper shock mounts. These are the easiet to try first. You can also raise your roll center so the truck makes less grip and has less mechanical chassis roll.
It's a chicken and egg problem, isn't it? ;) I have found that roll center and camber gain are much more of a tuning option than static camber. For dirt, I just set the static camber to negative 1 degrees all around and then adjust roll center and camber gain until I get what I want out of the car. If I find that I have to move static camber beyond -1deg, then that tells me that something else is wrong with the setup. On turf (well, I haven't raced in over a year, but when I did race), I was running -1deg at the time, but I've changed that to -2deg for whenever I go racing again. The reason is that turf has so much grip, that you can still have good forward bite with higher negative camber, and then use the higher static camber angle to get more cornering speed.
Traction roll is when the tires have too much grip. As weight transfers from left to right (or right to left) during cornering, this results in a shear stress on the tires, which in turn causes the tires to slip a little bit against the track surface. This effectively means that some of the cornering force is dissipated through this tire slip. If the tire never slips, then the cornering force is dissipated entirely through the suspension and through chassis flex. But then what happens when the suspension is fully compressed, and the chassis stops flexing, and the tires won't slip? The cornering force has nowhere to dissipate, and so that force ends up flipping the car over.
The video won't help unless I can actually look at the truck in detail to see what setup you're running. There is no single answer to this problem you're having. There are a variety of things you can do, but generally, you'll need to do things which reduce weight transfer to the rear.
That is not my intention. I made these setup tutorials so that people could learn from them rather than ask me for vague setup advice. Use these videos to your benefit, and I encourage you do read up on suspension geometry, steering geometry, etc. The more you understand about it yourself, the better prepared you will be to define a setup that works better for you. Knowledge is power.
So I have read all of your comments here. This dude is going above and beyond to help you and you end up calling him a Douchebag. Seriously Wayne grow up!
doctormosfet, the videos have been excellent! WayneRc go learn some engineering and basic physics then set your truck up. If you want a great setup you need to do it for yourself. This hobby is definitely not for everyone. it take a special set of skills to really be successful. Remember "The only one to blame for your failures in life is yourself."
