Thanks! Glad you like them. I'm still learning as I go, and as you can see, there is some debate on some of the setup videos. I'd encourage you to read through the comments in addition to watching the video itself.
Great video series. I've always followed you since your db-01 video :) You get straight to the point. When would you ever put spacers under and outside the shock under the shock bottom? I hope you can do an esc video with a esc that has greater functionality e.g a hobby wing v3.1
I don't have a perfect answer for you, as it depends a lot on the track layout and the rest of your setup. Low droop will help with cornering, but make the car more likely to traction roll. If you don't have big jumps, then I'd say to make the droop as low as possible before the car traction rolls. If you have big jumps, then you have to balance this against jumping/landing performance.
Like many others here, this video helped me understand the cause and effect of suspension droop so thanks! Just for clarification - as you applied force to the right side, this would simulate a left turn right? This making the left wheel the inside wheel relative to the left hand turn correct? There was mention in this video that was referring to the this wheel as the outside wheel. Or am I still confused :/
Not 100% sure. But I think car like this with soft suspension. Too less droop for inside wheel will make that wheel lifted up from ground as you said. High droop will at least keep the inside tyre stay on the ground and making some grip although the camber is not great. Can you change the camber curve to make it better with droop , maybe give some anti squat as well?
There are, of course, limits. On a high grip surface, if the droop is either too high or too low, the car will traction roll. So the question really is, within that window, should the droop be higher or lower, and that depends on how you want to trade off jumping and cornering performance.
HELLO thanks for great vid....so if i understood correctly if i we have a long turn wich is wide open and we need more steering during the entry,will less droop on the frond axle give me that amount of steering?
@@doctormosfet also, isn’t adding an internal limiter on say.. the right side rear shock, the same thing as adding an external up-stop limiter on the left side rear shock or am I wrong? Great videos btw!
Is there any difference between adding down travel limiters and screwing in the shock eyelets more? Will that achieve the same result, and why do one instead of the other? I'm seriously asking btw, just trying to figure it out.
They are equivalent. However, you should use downtravel limiters for larger changes in shock travel, since the eyelets have only so much threading. If you unscrew them too much (to increase travel), then there's not much thread holding the eyelet to the shock shaft, and you risk having it strip out on a hard landing. So, I would use the eyelets for minor-ish changes in travel, and/or if I'm too lazy to take the shock apart to add or remove limiters.
thank you, ive been snapping rear CVAs on my B64 since i bought it and AE suggested i decrease droop so im going to try that by screwing in the eyelets a little more...not much
I like these recent "explanation" vids you're doing..good stuff man. Happy New Year! Any plans for 2016, RC wise? I picked up two new sponsors, I got my first chassis sponsor, I'll be driving the PR Racing: 2 and 4wd buggies and probably picking up their short course model once I get the other two dialed and set in. And signed onto Boomrc Graphics. 2016 will be starting of pretty well ;)
+Chester Copperpot Thanks. Glad you like them. I've been wanting to do a series like this for a while, so I plan on doing more of them. RC-wise, maybe a few projects here and there, but not at the same frequency I did before. Most of my vintage bucket list projects are done, so it's just a matter of playing with what I already have. Maybe a XX4? A Dyna Storm? I don't know. With the vintage stuff more or less out of the way, I can get to more modern chassis, although that is also a big commitment, to put a lot of run time in and give an honest assessment. I'll just take it as it comes. Congratulations on your new sponsors! Plenty of my local R/C friends have sponsorships, but I personally try to stay away from that, because as you can tell, I like to play around with everything ;)
+doctormosfet Cool man. I'll be watching anything you do so..certainly do what you wish. Yea, I held off on taking chassis deals before for that very same reason. Even held off on taking a battery deal, because sometimes..you have to watch the cash flow and can't always get a certain battery and end up having to take a different one because of availability/price. But with that being said, I'm very excited to get these PR models built and start running them. I believe they deserve some more recognition amongst the popular brands. Especially their new 2wd buggy..lcg layout, lay down tranny. It has all of the modern competitive needs, but quite a few people won't give it a second glance because its not popular. Hoping I can change that around here. Give people more options or open their mind a little to step out of the box and not be afraid to run something different.
@@jeffbryner5355 well that's just the static camber. The camber gain also matters, which is related to the length of the camber link at constant static camber. So that would mean moving the inner mounting point further inwards and then re-adjusting your links to get back to +3/-3.
