Bob, great video. I used it to remove and replace the rear tire on my 2013 STL. Any hints on how to open the brake caliper so it slips over the rotor? Thanks!
Just an FYI - what year bike? Newer bikes don't have a sensor above the belt. What about the parking brake? Newer bikes have electronic PB and my solution was to release it and turn key off. Let the warning beep for about 20 seconds then it quits. One other idea is the remove the axle and the whole caliper/bracket drops away. So no need to replace the caliper bolts or deal with any shims.
I have a question - rhetorical. Who is the genius that pointed the rear tire air valve toward the sprocket? It is really hard to check/add air pressure. Why not point it toward the side with nothing in the way? Just sayin' Great video, by the way - thank you, I am no longer afraid to try to change my tire.
just replaced rear tire on a 2013 rt. didnt have to remove shock bolt any sensors,caliper bracket will come out with axle removed so no need to remove caliper bolts.why cut wrench when have a socket also to properly torque the axle.Why remove hub? mounted and balanced with hub on with no prob.
2013 has Brembo calipers so they are different. 2011 you have to remove them. Car place would not put the tire on the rim without hub removed although some did not have this problem. Maybe the equipment the car tire places have varies. Net time I will go somewhere else so I don't have to remove the hub.
Rich Bram I decided to try it without having it balanced and all is fine. It's a quality tire. Had it needed it I would have to take it to a dealer or MC shop as car places cannot balance it.
How important is removing the shock bolt? I’m having trouble getting it to line up for the axle install, could that be the issue? I didn’t remove it as I don’t have a motorcycle lift, so my floor jack is lifting at the shock
First lifting at the shock is not a good idea as it bends the shock bolt! You "may" be able to get the tire out if you don't remove the shock bolt if you jack it up higher. Maybe, not sure. The reason for removing the shock bolt is to gain more clearance (the swing arm drops lower) to get the tire out without having to remove the RT's rear panel.
Bob, I am about to remove the rear wheel from my 2014RT. I notice this video is of a 2011RT (I believe). Can you please post here what differences there might be (if you know). Thanks.
You have to lower the jack so a little weight is taken off the shock bolt and it will come right out. With it jacked up too much weight of the rear swing arm is pulling on it.
Bob, I'm not sure if he's barking at me or at you, since he replied to my question? I've only commented on this, and one other Spyder related video, so I don't know what his problem is.
It was designed to wear that way evidently, accidental flaw maybe, but the middle isn’t reinforced properly so it “bulges” outward at speed. With normal pressure you get about 12k miles on it.
Hello, Bob. Your voice over on your videos is outstanding. When you remove the rear wheel, what do you do with the beeping parking brake. Do you unbolt the parking brake and then set the parking brake to on? Or, does the parking beeper just stop. I don't know how to find it. But, how is the S drive working out for you. I appreciate your video. Thank you Al
Well first, why do you have the Spyder turned on while doing this work. Beeping? Why? In the video I think you see I did not unbolt the parking brake cable. I tie wrapped the caliper to the frame and left it hanging.
The original Kenda tires ARE car tires they are just horrible car tires. Best practice is to go with some other brand car tie and set the front to 14psi and rear to 24psi and you should see 45k miles. Achilles, federal and kumho are great options
I hope that you are putting a car tire back on Trike- these stock tires that come on Spyder have to soft rubber, tire going down the road, rubber is slung towards center run of tire causing it to wear out in the center--a car tire will not do this nearly as bad--should be able to get triple mileage out of car tire for a lot less money....
Bob - where are you located and if close to 75790 - willing to change my rear tire on a 2011 Can AM Spyder RTS-SE5? If you not in my area - can you recommend someone (other than dealership) to change out to a Kumho ECSTA AST KU25 225/50R15. We simply don't have the tools and jack to do what you video. We are subscribed, so hopefully I will hear back from you.
No where near TX. I am in Ca., As for a recommendation I cannot help as I do not know what is in that area. If you are on Facebook I recommend joining a spyder group and ask.
Helps get more clearance to pull the tire out the back. With the shock out when you jack up the bike the tire drops a lot lower without the shock. You are correct you do not have to do it, just makes it easier to get the tire in and out and align the axle. And it's only one bolt so no big deal.
Nice work,i do not get it,wy the tire gone in the center and new on the sides...let me guess the rover in the center its soft lol,,,,,,,to much air does it lol,,,i do not care any other history put enough air so the tire docent roll on the rim POINT....OOOOOOOOO THE TIRE with the speed bra bra bra....no its dosent to much AIR OR TO LITLE DOES THAT....its the SAME IN THE CAR.
Yes Sir and many other motorcycles. One in particular before the Spyder, was a Suzuki Burgman 650 Executive. Tire pressure on that motorscooter/motorcycle was critical as tire wear was a real problem if not maintained. We were lucky to get 9,000 miles; those tires were specifically designed by Bridgestone. Yes, you wasted a perfectly good tire by not watching the tread wear and adjusting the pressure accordingly. Do a google of acceptable tire wear and see for your self. The wear should be even all the way across the tread. Your videos are fantastic, thank you. You show us how to do things and how not to do things. You also open yourself up of criticism , which is good also. No one is perfect! Thank you again and keep up the infomos. Rich
Well trust I was not running the pressure too high. Spec is 28 PSI and I ran at 25. I was well aware of the middle wear issue on the Spyder. But still does not matter as it wears in the middle anyway. This was also the crappy stock cord Kenda tires. My Yokohama S-Drive is doing much better!
