a friend stopped by with some donations he grabbed from the trash. one of them being this higher end chain saw that the last owner stated it was the junkiest chainsaw ever. so lets find out why and if we can fix it.
We live in a "disposable" society these days. It makes me appreciate someone like you who is willing to try to repair and save these things. Bravo to you sir.
I agree, Larry. I am not very "handy" when it comes to repairing things and I don't like to give up on something that could possibly be fixed. I need someone like Mustie 1 in my corner!
Steel bolts threaded into plastic is a design with a pretty limited service life. These products are designed with disposability in mind unfortunately. Planned obsolescence is not just for phones.
@@CC-gu3ze Most pro saws don't have that. It's mainly the homeowner/rancher saws that have those kinds of design shortcuts, since they aren't expected to be ran and repaired as much as pro saws. Gotta take the price off somehow.
I am 86 yrs old and I remember how I use to tear down an item like you are doing and just lay a part down and continue on my work til I got it fixed. When I put it back together I could remember where all the parts went. I didn't care if it was a transmission out of a bulldozer or an old washing machine I was repairing. Now I am lucky if I can remember where I left my pants after using the restroom. I can't believe I was a Mechanic on Radar Planes in the Air Force. Oh well it was fun watching you and bringing back old memories.
I've been using my Husqvarna saw for 15 years (and it's a model priced lower than the 350 in this video) and it has never let me down. Keep the chain sharpened, replace the bar when it gets worn out, clean the sawdust out, and use quality gas and bar oil, and the thing still runs like the day I got it. Worth every penny I spent on it. And I got a deal.
My husky has never let me down fires up first pull keep here greased and sharp my stihl is always a beast to start and has never run that great bought both new ill stick with husky
My dad's husky I bought him for Father's day back in the 90's still runs like new even if it sits awhile between use..........still very tough to pull because of insane compression..........
I've got a couple guys at the scrapyard that have a don't shred pile for me. I only pay weight so I get some cool stuff. If I was as handy with small engines as Mustie is I'd make a fortune. I'm still rehabbing from a stroke so small engines are a bit to fiddly for me right now. I stick with cars and random cool junk for now, passing it along for others to make some money on.
For sure, an easy No money fix, just a bit of know how and one screw and its in the game...to be fair, having to work on your own stuff sometimes sucks. Not worthy of throwing out a saw lol
I LOVE IT when people tell me "YOU CAN HAVE THAT PEICE OF JUNK" !! Another job well done Sir !! As a side note, let everyone know they should flip the bar over occasionally to keep the wear even on both sides.
I’m 74 years old and have never taken apart a chainsaw but finally I understand a piece of equipment that I’ve used hundreds of times. Thank you as always for your clear and precise descriptions of how it works. My only regret is that you weren’t around in the 1960s.
@@twobeards6714 You have a Husky 357XP. A friend let me try his out on my Dad’s wood pile. The pile was a mix of birch, maple and oak. His chain was razor sharp and I couldn’t believe the ease and speed that saw went threw those logs. I believe on full throttle the 357XP spins at 13,000 revolutions per minute.
No older than the saw that he is checking out that was the worst changed all the person had ever seen in his life according to the cylinder wall the men did not put mix in the jug of fuel probably not realizing it and that did not help the chainsaw now the extra friction to work at a higher temperature with Indy cylinder and piston the extra heat is transferred to the firing system and the coil causing that to heat above-normal temperatures causing it not to run or creating a loss of vacuum which causes the fuel pump not to operate properly
When you put the fuel in the plughole the throttle has no control over how fast the engine runs until that fuel is burnt out that Dome top of the cylinder
Another problem I used to see on the old homelite chainsaws was that the fuel tank overheated and would build pressure up inside other than that they were good chainsaws they did use a lot of fuel and oil and they were heavy but at the same time they were some fast cutting machines
Working as a landscaper for 10 years husqvarna chainsaws are the best chainsaws I have had the pleasure to use. If you take care and maintain your tools they will last a very long time.
I 100% agree. The problem is people get mad and throw there tools across the yard and wonder why they don't last. I have a 55 rancher saw made by husqvarna, but the last small engine shop miss adjusted the carb so it lasted about an hour or two before it started knocking so bad we couldn't take it. Still pissed about that because it's a great little saw! Awesome comment!
100% CORRECT!!! I would say 90% of chainsaw owners don't know how to properly start and use a chainsaw. I'm an Echo repair specialist and I see this first hand day in day out. Lastly, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER LOAN OUT A CHAINSAW UNLESS THEY LEAVE A CASH DEPOSIT THAT WILL COVER THE REPLACEMENT COST OF THE SAW!!! You can thank me later for this suggestion!!! ✌
I bought my Husky 50 Special in the late 1980's and have worked it hard ever since. It is a good, reliable saw. Looks like yours just got its first proper maintenance and is now ready to serve you well.
The quality you bought has no relevance to what's available today.. The marketing boys work overtime to convince you that nothing's changed; the quality is still there. But nobody today wants to pay for that level of quality except for the pro that makes his living from it. If you watch "Bucking Billie RaySmith", you'll see that he has lot's of older saws he uses, and he cuts some pretty knarly problem trees.
There are plenty of rebranded consumer garbage saw produced in China and labeled with a "good name.". Poulan saws like the pp5020 are rebadged chinese crap and they have husky parts inside like the clutch cover. Can't trust the name. They are all half breed hybrids.
I rebuilt one of these for a friend with a piston and cylinder kit. First time ever working on a chainsaw, not too tough if you follow videos like this and others online. It’s a nice saw now and it was a fun project! Thanks for your videos.
Mustie1, you are one gifted teacher. I watched this video because I have a Husqvarna 142 and figured I could learn about chainsaws just by watching. I've taken my 142 apart a few times and fortunately put it back together and it runs like new today. Mfg. date is 2006 & I intend to keep it up & running forever. Last problem I had was the muffler was falling off because screws were not holding it in. I was told to use Locktite to hold them in and that has worked beautifully. Thank you Mustie1 for sharing your gift of teaching mechanics to others. I love the way you talk like viewers are standing right beside you and having a casual conversation about it. Amazing!
There a great saw. There is a decompression valve to make starting easy. If he wasnt using it and standing on the handle, that could have caused the damage.
I purchased the very same saw in 2003 from Lowe's ,, the best saw I've ever owned.. no issues whatsoever never fails to start I've worn out three chainsaw blades + 2 bars from normal wear and tear... excellent chainsaw !!
I've had my Husqvarna 261 for 23 years, cutting 10 to 20 cords of wood a year, and have the original bar on it. I touch up my chain by hand sharpening it with every gas and oil fill up. Every five times or so, I take everything apart, check for burrs on the bar, flip it, make sure it's square, have never had to "dress it", as they say, made sure the slot in it is cleaned out, including little oil hole, and as long as you do this oh and take down the rakers on the chain... You'll never have to press hard and make your saw cut. It will just cut through the wood and work for you. Then you don't have the friction between the bar and your chain. If you notice that it's getting tough to cut, the chain is making more noise than usual, you smell or see smoke, or the chain stops abruptly after your cut instead of slowing down with idle, or it takes longer to cut through stuff, stop what you're doing, and check your saw out! Not trying to lecture you. Just amazed that everyone that goes through bars almost as much as chains. I've seen people that I thought were expert chainsaw handlers, fighting with their saws to get them to cut, only to realize, they sharpen their chains themselves, but didn't think they had to do the rakers. I was amazed. The teeth are slanted, and as they wear, the rakers definitely have to be taken down, or you'll be one of these guys pushing down on your saw to get it to cut no matter how sharp it is. Also, if that chain looks like it's melting sawdust on it, it's not getting the oil it needs. Just trying to spread some chainsaw love. Be safe!
These are awesome saws. I have one and love it. Thank you for sharing Mustie. I really enjoy your videos and always learn something. Fantastic idea going up on the hex bolt size. All the best.
Don’t really agree; have to add that a lack of good tools is definitely something a craftsman blames when he/she is creating something up to a good craftsman’s standards. But then again if you make a mistake due to bad tools - you should’ve known before that could happen and not do the endeavor!
Husqvarna makes a damn good saw. "Junkiest saw i ever saw" turned into a good saw. I suspect that the original owner didn't know what he was doing and wasn't experienced enough to repair it.
I've had a husqvarna 50, since 1988. And I'm still cutting with it. I've had a husky 55 with 18 inch bar, husky 61 ,with 20 Inch bar. Husky 350 with16 inch bar all strong saws...sounds like an operator error to me!!!
Agree with that 😒 I've a 1979 husqvarna 61... 61ccm ~4 hp.. And it's working... I've two mcculloch(usa modell) from 1970's 😂 they run.. So.. Not know how to use something is not the "things" fault...
I have 6 of em from the 445 a 440 and 540D whatever the D means... These videos seem to be encouragement for ppl to throw out perfectly good shit... I did ORIGINALLY have two of the 455's from BOTH Tractor Supply I bought 2 and LOWES I bought two saws there and they all ran once & never ever started again. Fortunately for me the one 455 I had remaining I took at the time before I went full bore into small Engine repairs here & way before LOWES went totally corrupted I had only of the one 445's left the one my son had gotten me so I relaxed took it to a nearby shop.... 2 months later the small engine shop called me told me my saw was ready told me it had an ECO carb on it that was the problem I could pick it up they told me they got a non ECO CARB put it on and it's been running and running on every mission I have gone on .... I also take along with it's one a smaller Husky saw a brother... I use the Premix Fuels all my saws do pretty darn good and they do have superior power. Period.. Better than Sthil saws and the others.. I know keep the 6 stooges as I call em and I use the premix because they stay running with it.. also keeps the dirty shit from the filling station gasoline out of em.. Only a total DOPE would give up one them older Husky saws... If these saws get a new non Eco carb they do deliver power way beyond that over priced Sthil trash they sell at them over priced main street shops
@@thekingsilverado8419 there is the possibility that this was a Chinese clone of the real thing, as I know that uses to do very good copies in the past including there boxes chains and manuals. I know this cause I had some of the cloned stihl saws and would start on third pull after 6months of no use never had a problem with them. The lack of safety stickers and serial number was the giveaway on the stihl saws but not sure on the husky.
@@DanielSan-ch7dr Anything is possible as we both agree on that. All I can say is U are totally right and it is going on with other high end tools and products as well. There was real shake up at Holley Carbs with clone shit seemingly showed up over night. Holley corporate and Summit deny it was happening since they themselves were the sole suppliers of the stuff but it did happen about 3 years ago I happened to have a relative that works at Summit Racing in Ohio. I can say I never bought a bad Holley product until then. I think they got a handle faster than other companies because they limit their inventories. It was probably easy for them to detect the clone stuff. Also happened with Dewalt and Milwakee products shifted their main bases of MFG to China and once again clone shit happened there too. There is no stopping the Chinese thieves after all they R in the white house... Not good for us consumers out here
Maybe a bolt was loose from the factory and it spiraled from there. Doubt it though problably some 300lb gorrilla reefing on it after not putting it back together properly.
Mustie you are truly amazing with small engines, I’m 78 and thought I was a good mechanic but you have taught me so much and it’s always a pleasure to watch you, you talk to me like I’m right there next to you, and in reality I am ole buddy 😁
Watching somebody actually fix something without buying a bunch of new parts was refreshing, also I noticed you avoided taking the trigger housing apart that can be a real can of worms to get back together on some saws.I am now a new sub, thx!
Hi Misty . Just a GREAT BIG THANK YOU ! . Your Hard work has given me the incentive to do my petrol hand tools , and to keep them all running !! .Now I don't have to throw them away like I used to do. I watched your Video on the pressure washer ( petrol ) , and now I have a free by washer that works . Thank you again for all of your Hard work . I Do Enjoy all of them . And yes I once owned a slug Bug and had the enjoyment of working on the engine 71 vintage .
@@stevemollis5416 No...The pin works as a stop when hitting plastic to keep from over extended springs when prying with saw during normal use. No missing part.👍
Sadly, there are plenty ""expert""RU-vidrs that make how to vids, or reviews, that are ignorant tool fools. One dummy nearly cut his fingers off with a saw. Some are not even qualified to change a light bulb.
Cool video. I've run a tree service for over 22 years I moved to husky and Jonsered because stihl was too hard to crank and failed more often than husky. Always use your compression release.
I've got that saw's big brother, the 372xp and I love it! Mine's a little newer, and a little different layout obviously, but I learned a few things about it in general from your video. Thank you sir!
This is my favorite channel. I’m originally from PA and it somehow seems like I’m back home working on stuff. Thanks for all the tips and entertainment!
Sorry if this has already been mentioned, but those 350s were notorious for air leaks due to a plastic clamp around the intake boot. Husqvarna makes a replacement metal clamp that solves the issue. When you had it running in the vise, it sounded like it was running lean.
Exactly what happened to mine, after 13 years and 7 to 10 cords of wood a year. ( we heated with woods and yes I probably got 100 cords out of mine! I now have a husky pro saw…)
Mine is a version a couple of years newer than the one in the video, but after owning it for a decade it finally went. I was running it too hard, but after it blew I found out about this failure mode and I'm going 50/50 between that and me just trying to get one last cut (it was a big one) and I pushed it too far. I bought the updated clamp and a knock off jug/piston assembly and brought it back from the dead. It's nickname is now Lazarus.
I got a 350 apart on my bench right now waiting for the kit. Broken plastic clamp pulling air on the intake boot side. These saws are actually not bad to work on. I’d take a free one any day.
This is less a YT channel and more a really high quality apprenticeship. I don't think there's a more informative channel out there that explains both problems and fixes so clearly. Mustie, you do excellent work and you're a spot on teacher. Many thanks.
You should see our old 262XP, it makes yours look like new! - Did you know that Husqvarna and Jonsered are part and parcel of the same company? Parts are mutually interchangeable on all the products we've ever had from either brand. Chain bars get burned up like if the chain isn't kept sharp. The operator just leans more heavily on the saw, and is possibly another reason why yours had all that wear on that spring mounting hole. If the chain is sharp, it should need little more than the weight of the machine itself, to cut the wood!
No way... Husqvarna has one of the best reputations for quality equipment. This is a prime example of someone not knowing how to properly care for their equipment. Thanks for bringing it back to life.
As a professional arborist that uses the 52cc 350’s as ground saw daily. They are excellent saws with 2 flaws that can cause major damage if not fixed or noticed. 1 the plastic boot clamp at the intake needs to be changed for a metal one or it will have an air leak and burn the cylinder up. 2. You have to basically loctite the muffler bolts in or they will rattle out. Besides those small mods, theses saws will rip. My favorite for power to weight ratios
I know where there's 1 of these with the muffler problem. Operator never noticed the sound change (?) & the exhaust holed the oil reservoir ruining the case. Not worth fixing unless you've got a better sense of humor than me.
Haven't finished the video yet, but at 26:06 that rubber bushing looks like it goes to that lonely stud! A good policy I've used for my chainsaws is to fill the gas tank 2/3 and fill the bar oiler all the way. This way you run out of gas before bar oil.
That's a great tip. I don't think I've ever run out of bar oil before finishing the tank of gas though. Maybe back in the day before auto-oilers, when you had to pump the bar oil out manually. But still a great operating tip.
Damn great mechanical skills,I live in Adelaide Australia and believe me you belong to a Elite group of people who have the ability to problem solve and repair any thing,my name is Peter McFarlane and I am glued to your site, thank you so much for sharing your skills,cheers buddy and happy trails
I’ve had the same exact saw (350) for 20 years without a problem. Having wooded property, I’ve cut several trees with her that fell during hurricanes over the years. Great homeowner saw.
Love my Husky, 35 yrs old and had fun porting and tweaking a larger carb on it for a bit more grunt. Ran it on Model aircraft 10% Nitro fuel for a joke once, lovely aroma!🤭🤫😯
@@horstszibulski19 Go search Saw Daddy or whoever on Tik tok or maybe here if you wanna see some saw stuff. Man does all the work on these chainsaws and gets them just going. I don't even use chainsaws as well...not much to do with them as of now, BUT i still love seeing how the modifications and which ones do what.
Have really enjoyed your videos. You seem to find the best toys. That chainsaw motor runs really smooth. Thanks for all the visits. Keep up all the good work...
It’s about time you caught a break... nice score. You made it look too easy, but still kept us with you. TY, I learned something new. Stay healthy, stay safe and stay greasy!
I have that very same saw. Thank you for this video. They did have a carburetor issue where Husquvarna had to switch to a different manufacture. However, the customer had to buy the new one that worked better on his own dime.
My toughts too. We have like 8 or 10 husqvarnas and johnsereds 25...30 to 5 years old. Plastic worn trought on top handle for one :D, and worn trought throttle linkages on another one. Shocking to hear 20yo on somting so fresh.
@@catherinewolfson3139 "That easily". You know how easily "that easily" that was, do you? How? Huskys are premium saws. There is no accident that professional tree cutters here exclusively use Stihls or Huskys.
@@catherinewolfson3139 I have the same saw from 08 and she runs like a champ. Sometimes things like this happen. My guess is that it didn't get properly assembled at the factory with the bolt on the isolation spring . And there was kickback then the throttle linkage popped out of the housing and went full throttle. So don't be afraid to give this brand a shot it has worked great for me 🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲
Excellent video, Sr! You’re right, was expecting the usual carb cleaning! Well explained and although its a long video, you made it very intertaining that I paused it couple of times before watching it til the end.
I know I'm late to the party, but this just popped up in the suggesteds list. Although it's nearly an hour long, the presentation, the narrative as it was being diagnosed and repaired made it an intersting watch. Great job. The only junk thing about this 20 year old chain saw was apparently using too short a screw in the plastic threads. Maybe Husqvarna took note long ago.
If someone calls a Husqvarna the junkiest chainsaw ever they might want to look in the mirror to see the problem with the chainsaw. As far as I know Husqvarna is consistently one of the top 3 brands of chainsaws -- possibly #1.
you get what you pay for hence they have a variety of ranges from couple of hours a year homeowner saws through ranch saws doing a couple of hours a week up to all day every day saws. Buy wrong and you say the saw is janky or overpriced.
@@longlowdog It doesn't help either when someone buys a saw and they have no idea how to use it. You could sell them the best pro saw out there and if they cut on the compression side until they bind it in the kerf and then start pulling on it like a monkey in a mango tree until the AV breaks, Or have no idea how to start a saw and flood it, then blame the saw. Husky, Stihl and Echo all make some very nice saws. I look at it more like a race car driver, you take someone with no idea how to handle a race car and put them in one and then put a race car driver in a stock car, the race car driver will beat the other one because he knows what he is doing.
@@MegaLostOne biggest failure of machinery is due to folk not reading the manual. My family used to sell new BMWs and we would find owners who still had no idea of their quirks and features after a year. Usually middle aged guys too proud to wait for the introduction half hour when they picked up their new car.
I'd have to agree with the #1 comment. I was raised with Stihl and always told / thought it's #1..... All my company saws are Husqvarna now after using a friends 450 a decade ago.
I have this very same Husky 350 saw. I purchased it in 2003 and it still runs well. It has cut many, many cords of wood over the years. I have put it through hard use, but never beat it. I will agree that chainsaw companies have been making saws cheaper and cutting corners as far as durability issues are concerned.
The older I get I find myself taking pictures of everything with my cellphone before I start tearing things apart.....then lots of pictures while I tear it down. Can't begin to tell you how much of a lifesaver that has been when putting it all back together..... especially when there are lots of wires and connectors involved. Good show Mustie1.
I love my husqvarna. I come from Denmark and i don't know if it's because husqaurna is bulit a little different i europe, because they are a very well respected brand aswell as stihl:)
Awesome job on a good saw. The owner probably didn’t know how to maintain it or operate it or trouble shoot it after the bolt spring popped of the plastic cover. You’re the man!
My hats off to you sir I wish I had half the resourcefulness that you have plus a mechanical Genius keep it up you motivated me to be a better mechanic
Great video! Good job resurrecting a great saw. I have the 345 model, probably around the same age as this one and it has never failed me. It even impresses my brother who buys more expensive Stihl chainsaws when we cut firewood. I bought a new 435 model for my son for Christmas one year and it's a bugger to get it to start. Once it's started it's great. I still like my old 345 much better. though!
Sounds like the low carb adjustment needs to be fattened up a bit. Sometimes being set too lean (on either) will make for hard starts and/or bogging when ya hit the throttle. There are some great videos on carb tuning out there. Factory set on older saws was usually "too rich" but for the last 20 years or so almost assuredly too lean (makes the emission data look better but can cut power and overall life of the saw)
I once sold a used working sthil chainsaw to a guy who claimed to be a ‘woodsman’ & a week or so later he came back swinging his fists, saying i had conned him ! He had run the saw with no bar oil in it for about three hours by which time the oiler had burned up ! What Total muppets some people are !
@@David-yo5ws The story is told of the woodsman of old that was given a new chainsaw by the boss and told to use it instead of the cross cut saw he was using.... A week later the boss came by and said "You've only cut three more trees down this week than you would have done if you kept using the cross cut...what's going on. "Boss" said the woodsman, "the chain gets real dull real quick and it doesn't have the same stroke I am used to". With that the boss takes the chainsaw and starts it up.... "Boss, what's that noise"????
Many years ago I was doing a tree job and observed a guy across the street cutting down a large Pfitzer hedge.He was having a bad time of it. I walked over and offered to sharpen his chain. He was happy to let me try.When I went to do it it turned out that the chain was on backward.
Sounds like my roommate. She got one of the Kobalt 80v chainsaws. Didn't ask me for help or anything when putting bar and chain on. Used it and told me it wouldn't cut. She had the chain on backwards 🤣. Flipped the chain and it cuts fine. Just eats through batteries fairly quick.
I like what you fo. My buddy and I like to work on small engines. It's always fun to try and figure out what happened to them and what caused their issues. And of course getting them running again is always satisfying.
Chainsaws are by far the most misused small engine power tools, in my experience. The number of times I have seen people cut into the dirt with them, not fill the bar oil when refilling the tank, not sharpening the blade after/before every use, not overheating the bar, etc. is astounding. I guess that's why push mowers are getting to the point where you don't even need to change the oil in them anymore, people can't be bothered to actually learn how to use their tools.
I work in the industry. yesterday I had a customer bring a MS 362 for a "choke adjustment." in all my years, I've never did a choke adjustment. well, this one was SOOOOO dirty, you couldn't pull the trigger back far enough to allow the choke to set. cleaned it up, worked great. went to go start it, took the bar cover off, and saw he had the chain BACKWARDS! And these people procreate and probably carry a gun too. scary
😎👍 I REALLY enjoyed that repair! Your presentation style is AWESOME - you made us feel like we were there helping you. RESPECT for giving equipment another life - TOO many dumbasses just throw stuff out when it breaks 😳🥺
To be fair, few people read owner's manuals regardless of skill or experience level. Those who know what they're doing don't read it because they don't need it, while those who don't know what they're doing don't read it because they don't think they need it.
@@alanmumford8806 Me too, even longer - we are underappreciated until someone gets in serious trouble, then if we are really good, we can help them get back to probably being better than new.
I’ve a husqvarna 350 bought in 1997, it’s now 2021, replaced the fuel filter and the pull start. With proper care and oil/fuel mix and chain oil it’s works great. There is an oil adjustment for hot and cold seasons, though I’ve found if kept clean - clean the bar regular (to include oil passages) the saw won’t let a person down.
Awrsome...love the damper fix. I believe it needs a rubber bushing on the one pin/left side... The clutch needle bearings needs grease(that why the chain moves at idle) Idle is a tad high Always let it warm up a minute before opening up Really nice vid...thanks
I have the same chainsaw that I bought new probably close to 20 years ago. Haven’t done anything other than routine maintenance. Its cut many trees and cords of wood over the years. It’s still a beast!
I've had my Husqvarna saw for almost 20 years. It gets moderate use, but I always make sure it's cleaned up, and everything tightened back up as needed. Whoever had this saw, abused it, then wanted to blame the saw for failure. That saw is just a residential, light farm work type saw. You can't expect more than they're designed to give. Nice job fixing her up. You got a free saw! Chainsaws ain't cheap these days!
Great channel and great job on the saw. One thing you can do to fix stripped holes in plastic is to use a heli coil. Just like you would for a stripped spark plug. Keep up the great work.
@Henry May I have a Stihl MS230 (really just a hobby saw) that I bought around 12(?) years ago that's done the work of 2 Pro-grade saws around my Dad's property over that time, and finally one of the handle screws has stripped-out (no surprise really...) so I've been watching YT videos from all the different repair guys for the best way to fix it until I found this video purely by chance, and thought I'd watch it just to see how a Husqvarna saw is put-together really... And as soon as I saw how it flopped-around in the handle I knew exactly what the problem was and my ears pricked-up for the solution Mustie 1 was going to use to fix it... Up until then my options were: 1) A bigger screw 2) A Heli-Coil or 3) Gorilla Glue -I know it sounds trashy-as-hell, but: -Dampen the plastic all the way down the hole where the thread has stripped-out. -Scratch the inside of the screw-hole with a long, thin, sharp piece of metal to key it (a long masonry nail with the tip bent-over 90⁰ and held in vice-grips is ideal) -Poke plenty of Gorilla Glue (mixed with shavings of the same plastic as the hole is in) down the hole (a wooden cocktail stick or skewer works well for this). -Jiggle it around with the skewer to mix the glue, shavings and water together thoroughly. -Leave a cocktail stick (or matchstick -anything smaller than the shank of the screw) in the centre of the hole as a guide for reinserting the screw. -Leave it to cure FULLY for 48 hours (the longer the better). -Trim the expanded glue from the top of the repair with a razor blade or very sharp chisel. -Gently drill down into the cocktail stick about 1/2 the length of the screw with a cocktail stick sized drill-bit as a pilot hole. Insert the screw and crank it up tight 😁👍 I know it sounds kinda-sketchy, but I've used this method to repair stripped threads in plastic automotive parts, power tools (drills, routers, grinders), kayaks, toys, wooden furniture, kitchen cupboards, Ikea junk, and locked rawl-plugs into masonry and concrete, etc, and as long as the Gorilla Glue mixes with moisture and cures-fully before any load is applied to it then it's every bit as tough and resilient as the original plastic (or wood/trash-board) was, and usually significantly stronger, and it costs fractions of a penny per (very permanent...) repair. I know that Heli-Coils are ideal for best-case repairs, and are great/usually the only option in metal (especially aluminium) but I don't know how much money I'd have spent on all the different sizes that I'd have needed over the years, while Gorilla Glue is cheap, completely universal, always to-hand, and because it expands into all the tiny scratches and voids as it cures, it gives both chemical and mechanical "bite" into the material. Also, Heli-Coils are designed for, and work best with, machine-screws and bolts, but self-tapping screws with a much coarser thread-pitch can sometimes just tear-out of the plastic and leave you with a bigger hole -that's why I was searching for other solutions or ideas before I commit to my chainsaw repair, because it'll be a one-chance-and-done repair so I don't want to mess anything up...
Start process for this type of saw: ichoke on full until the saw "starts " to start. Turn the choke off (without pulling the gas trigger) and the saw should start on high idle. Pull the trigger and the saw will go to low idle.
great fix the bushing i have seen the bushing fail on chainsaws like this before love the way you went at fixing the saw step by step started with the easiest and kept digging good mechs are worth their weight in gold
