I redid my 12' dual axle trailer a little over a year ago. I took it down to bare metal, primed it and painted it like John Deere. I couldn't tell you how many drill bits I burned up before I found some good bits at Home Depot for hard steel. I had to use my angle grinder to cut all of heads off of the old bolts, as the were too rusty to remove. But we got all new wood decking for it and rewired all of the lights and upgraded to LED.
As usual, as soon as the work starts your helper starts playing that fiddle again! You need to tell him to leave it at home when he comes to help you, lol.
I have started rebuilding a trailer as well. Much worse shape than yours. The leaf springs where broken. Pretty rusted. No deck at all. Grinding the rust and cutting off the rusted old style leaf spring brackets has not been fun. Looks like your trailer will be a lot easier to do and your going to have a really nice trailer when your done. Good deal. Maybe I'll post a video of mine when finished.
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I started a little RU-vid channel last year with some videos on how I add some custom aspects to my Utility trailers for maximum reliability and usefulness. It will be interesting to see how you improve the decking. Thanks for sharing!
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Castiel Karson i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
You used White Oak for your trailer. Do you think Larch (Tamarack) would work for a heavy duty flat deck. Talking 6000 lb for wheeled equipment? A mill operator I talked to told me it has all kinds of great properties that make it close to a hardwood, however, it is more like a Red Cedar for rot resistance . I’m thinking of used diesel engine oil and diesel 50/50 mix to saturate lumber before mounting. It should last a while!
So far very good, Troy, but what about the finish on the bones of the trailer. Are you going to repaint with your almost trademarked RTH red and add some modest panels between the rails for the "RTH as seen on RU-vid" logos, too? That trailer could be a sweet (and decent) bit of click bait for the channel; can't hurt, I hope. This trailer series is going to be fun! [I'm still trying to figure an angle for me to partner with you when I actually get going with my own next shot at improved self-sufficiency---maybe Rusty-Roof Shack in the Woods? Yeah I know, needs work. I'm on it.]
Certainly repack them! If they're in good shape, though no real reason to replace. I keep a spare set of bearings in the tool box on my trailer just in case, too.
that is why i been custom building all kinds of trailers for over 38 years, even all the trailers i have i built, i wouldnt put that trail behind my truck on the road with anything on it, all factory trailers are built so poor, i always wounder how they even get allwed on the road, even the so called heavy duty trailer are just as bad, all made out of angel iron, or welds are just short little things, i cant tell you how many factory trailers with that light weight A frame for a tong has broke off on the hyw and hit people on bikes to cars an trucks coming the other way. if you can twist a trailer frame like that, or just sitting, dont put it on the road, use it on your ATV and drag it though the bush until it will no longer drag.. all my trailers are built with heavy wall tubing
what do you make the frames out of ? i think i have only ever seen angle iron as frames i dont do much with hauling so i dont really look up close to any trailer
@@niq872 thats because all factory trailers know mater the size are all built with angle iron, witch only has one edge of strenth, it all depends on the size of trailer i am custom building, my lightest single axial 3500 Lb trailer the main frame is all built with 2x4x3/16 tubing, the toung is dubled up 2x4x3/16" tubing, the bottom A frame ties all the way back th the front spring hanger, then a 2nd A frame is put on top of that and ties into the front 2x4 cross tubing, to stop the flex, witch flexing weakens the steel and brake out, and i use 2x2x3/16 tubing for the cross members, giving room for a full 2" 2x hard wood deck. normally sawed from tamarack, same that is used here on big float trucks as you see with Troys A frame it is jusr one cheap angal iron A frame with nothing welded to the top of it tieig into the front cross angel iron, ever a 3"x3/8" flat bar welded on edge would make that tug so much stronger, that heavy new coupler he got there is heavy enough to brake up that light weight A frame, with that type of A frame with nothing tieing into the front rail, flexes and crack the one flange of that angel iron and next thing you know the young is hooked to the truck, but the A frame broke off and you see the trailer passing you, with know young on it, my biggest trailers in a 5th wheel, i build the main frame out of 3x5x1/4 or 3-1/2x6x1/4 tubing 2ith 2x4x1/4 or 2x5x1/4 cross members. i order all axial direct from a Canada axial mfg here, along with all brakes, hardware, tire an wheel assemblies, (i stay away from spoke rims) fenders, and all lights from a Canada wholesale supplier, stainless steel bolts if bolts are needed other then the spring bolts, all wiring is run inside the trailer tub frame or pipe to protect the wire
@Powrguy Tom i think you need to go back and under stand what i said, i said for the most part most trailers are, specially in utility or smaller eqipment trailers, as well as many dump trailers, in fact we just had a family killed by a dump trailer were the angle iron A frame broke free, (again no second A frame on top,) about 3 months ago, the dump trailer was loaded with tree wood chips, like i said, for over 35 years i have had a long list of all kinds of trailers ordered for a custom build, as people, well some people can see how pour factory trailers are built, i have also had to repair many factory i-beam trailers, simply because nothing is welded solid, small stitch welds that crack, cross members that are far to light in a i-beam frame trailer, as a life time license welder i have seen far to much, the strongest material is pipe, 2nd it tubing. people know mater what need to stay clear of box store and co-op trailers of all kinds people need to be aware of the crap out there, then worry about someone not haing power saw pants on, when it comes to buying a untility trailer, them box store trailer are expensive.. but so un-safe
