Creality CR-10 V2 3D printer review - all you need to know 

It's a shame the CR10S Pro does not work as well or as advertised

It's also a shame that open source firmware are not shared by Creality, that's why I will do not buy a second one....

​@@MacFly669 I think they uploaded source codes on their website? Or for some models?

@@whc2001 The only one you get with source files is 1.60.3 with an old deprecated version of Marlin, with no thermal protection and so on... others are binaries that you could not customize

Yes please improve everything up before I buy one's, heheh.

Bain Krieg Thank you very much!

Thank you so much for your comment and positive feedback. Wish you all the best.

I'm so glad to hear that. Thank you so much for your comment mate!

Mac Fly You welcome my dear friend! Thanks for your comment :)

Thanks for watching and for your comment.

Simon Eriksson Thank you so much!

Lucky C Thank you so much for your comment.

I'm glad you like it. Have a great day!

Awesome!

Nice, Well the power-supply inside control box could really use one Noctua fan, maybe even others fans inside control box you could change to Noctua as well if you really want to make it silent. Check this video that I made for CR10S PRO it might help as it's similar procedure. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lde-SSY4vtw.html

No problem man, I'm glad that you found my video useful. Take care

Wong

Thank you!

Thank you my friend! Well to make this video it took me more then 3 weeks of work and it seems that new RU-vid algorithm don't fell like promoting this video at all which is unfortunate, so I will just answer to you here for now. Ok i understand what you meant, there is so many 3D printers in CR Series and in general to chose now and I understand that people can get confused. I have tested pretty much all 3D printers from Creality and let me tell you that this new CR-10 V2 is the most complete and the first 3D printer from Creality that works flawlessly out from the box without need to change/upgrade anything on it and the print quality is awesome. On every 3D printer from Creality so far and in general I need to fix/change/upgrade something to get it right and to make 3D printer to work as it should be out from the box. For example, On CR10 Max I needed to modify heat-bed(crucial fix), on Cr10S PRO I needed to change capacitive to inductive Auto level sensor(crucial fix) on Ender 5 and Ender 3 I needed to add TL-smothers to get rid of salmon skin on prints surface(crucial upgrade + motherboard fan fix on ender 3), on the Cr10S I needed to add AC 720W silicone heated and solid state relay to be able to print ABS as stock heated bed was unable to reach 100-110C even with heat-bed insulation installed and etc... and BTW Creality is the most successful Chinese 3D printer manufacturer on the market today and still I found some flows there and there on their new 3D printers which I always say and point out in my review videos and Creality fix them later on the new units after my feedback which is great for new owners and for the 3D printing community. From all 3D printers that Creality has produced so far, I will say that CR-10 V2 is the best and most complete 3D printer with the highest print quality out from the box. The only thing that I would change/upgrade on the new CR-10 V2 is to replace stock bowden tube with high temperature resistant Capricorn bowden tube, but only if you are planing to print Nylon or similar filament that require nozzle temperatures higher then 240C degrades. If you print PLA, PETG, ABS, WOOD, TPU etc, filaments up to 240C then the stock/generic bowden tube will be good enough. Also if you are really picky about the fan noise or you like to print and sit on the same desk table very close to the printer then I would also suggest to replace the stock cooling fans inside of control box/ power supply to new silent Noctua fans that would make it pretty much completely silent but that's just me :) P.S. If you ever want to change the stock cooling fans on the Cr10v2 check the CR10S PRO upgrade video series that I made(browse the channel) as it's similar procedure. I hope that I helped with your choice. Best Regards Nexi

@@NexiTech omg. Thank you so much for your genuine feedback. That's extremely helpful. Your the only Chanel that actually have useful content and non biased reviews. Excellent work Nexi. 1) not planning to use any fancy material other than general stuff so, no upgrade at this point. But good to know. I am going to screenshot your comment as it's very valuable to me. And of course to others. 2) not picky about fan noise. I already saw your video upgrading to 5krpm fan. Great stuff. Possibly will get it done later. One more Question: 3) Australia folks got this CR10 S PRO V2 in hand.... What's up with that? Did you review already? Or received that model? I would like to find out how that compares with CR10 V2? Any feedback on that? It's not currently available in us. But third party website ships it. Again. Can't thank enough for your valuable feedback.

Nexi Tech would you recommend this over sidewinder x1? Seems like it’s cr10v2 or swx1 for me.

Hi mate! Thank you for your comment. Here is the link of the cube print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496723 Have a great day!

@@NexiTech thank you - no wonder I couldn't find it, was looking for endless not infinity Cube. Printed it and came out far better than expected. CR-10 v2 print quality is great as I am building a 737 cockpit and now able to do larger parts and so far are printing brilliantly.

No problem mate! That's awesome! I'm glad that you satisfied with your CR10 V2. Share some link when you finish your project I will approve it. Thanks again for your comment I appreciate it. Cheers!

Andrew Hayes lol no. Every benchy has that slight dip. If you want please link a youtube benchy video that has zero sag. I’ll wait....

Hi friend! Nope, once you install Autolevel sensor and set it up you do don't need to do it again. Basically Autolevel sensor will take new measurements automatically right before each print and you will have perfect first layer every time. Here are 5 steps, how to install the BL- touch on the CR10 V2: 1. Install the BL-touch - drive.google.com/open?id=1zCIQgfzIJUoN8wIjjxb4DI5j8pBJlwRp 2. Download BL- touch firmware - drive.google.com/drive/folders/1N_RVXtakOYS0uQJso0YY8yp2j1aFmoik 3. Connect Cr10 V2 to the CURA via USB cable and install new firmware. 4. Adjust BL- touch Z distance and run auto-level from the printer. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1N_RVXtakOYS0uQJso0YY8yp2j1aFmoik 5. Disconnect and remove mechanical Z stop switch from the printer. Done I hope I helped :)

Nexi Tech - Thanks, these are perfect instructions! Certainly helps for future reference.

Tps Rep I love this new type of glass plate. Who ever invented it he is genius!

Thank you! Setting for TPU? Just lower your print speed(lower the better) and use higher layer height like 0.2 or 0.25mm.

Max Yes definitely.

perfodemo Thanks for the trust and for updated info. I'm glad that you are satisfied with your CR10 V2. If you have BL-touch upgrade and BL-touch firmware you do not need Z axis stop switch at all. You can disconnect it and remove from machine.

Hi Nexi Tech - Thanks for your quick reply. I have removed the Z switch and it is printing just incredible, the same exact results as your original video demonstration. I am so glad with my purchase of CR-10 V2. Thanks again for your outstanding product review. This is an epic 3D printer! I highly recommend it to everyone!

I was in the same place my man. So I just bought both! They both have amazing benefits!

Not really, the print quality is already on spot. No need for that, layers are straight, nice and smooth. For that money better to get some more filament :)

4FunRC Thanks mate! Low cost multi-material 3D printer? Ah, that's pretty hard choice. Multi material 3D printers are still long way from perfect even for a high budget. I would stay away from any dual nozzle 3D printers if heat blocks are not separate and if nozzle can not retract if they are not in use. I can only recomend Prusa with multi-materijal upgrade kit and that's maybe as technology behind mulitmaterial 3D printers are not there yet. Thanks for the comment, Ha det så bra :)

@@NexiTech Thanks! Yeah, I meant to say multi-color, like Geeetech's or whatever. LOL!

cr-10s pro also have v2 at the moment.

@@murattosundan And I'm confused if I should go with the new V2 or Pro V2

Yes you can use CR10 or CR10S print profile.

Sure here it is: github.com/kickstarter/kickstarter-autodesk-3d/tree/master/FDM-protocol

I have printed with TPU filament for years on bowden 3D printers. Just lower your print speed and you will be fine as look you are printing with low speeds. If you looking to print TPU faster then you could add Titan direct drive extruder, or if you want to print TPU much faster maybe you can modify the X carriage and add E3D Hemera extruder.

Those 2 are exactly what I'm considering to buy. I can't make my final decision and pull the trigger. Pro v2 tempts me with compact design and ordinary v2 has the new special coated glass bed.

Oh my god I am in the same boat. I have decided though, and its going to be the CR-10 v2. Its much more reliable, and auto bed leveling works much better. The fancy features on the pro doesn't justify its bad reliability and problems. Thats just my idea after a week of research :).

I'll go with V2 because it has all metal hotend while Pro V2 doesn't

@@valent_t I believe Pro V2 also has all metal hotend. I have pulled the trigger for V2 too as pro v2 was not available here in Turkey. Today I've seen an official creality video about Titan direct extruder upgrade for V2 and sadly it doesn't fit perfectly and they're trying to find a fix to this problem. It sucks to know one of the key features are not designed well and probably we cannot use titan direct drive on these machines. If you haven't made your final decision yet I suggest giving a look at Sidewinder X1 v4 as well.

@Hakan Onur Derici Hakan bey V2 tecrubeniz nasil gidiyor? Öneriyor musunuz?

ИВАН ЛК Thank you!

Thomas Andersson CR10 V2 is better 3D printer then CR10S in every segment.

You don't need Titan drive to print PETG/TPU/ABS, standard drive works great. Titan drive is more for flexible filaments such as TPU.

Yes. This 3D printer is very beginner friendly.

Too big and hard to level because heated bed is 99% bowl in center. I can't recommend Cr10 S5.

Sure here it is: FDM Benchmark test - github.com/kickstarter/kickstarter-autodesk-3d/tree/master/FDM-protocol

@@NexiTech Thank you very much.

Thanks man! 1. It's older marlin 1.1.9 version, 2. 6:23 Version 2.5.2 2. Yes, i will add links of the models as soon as i can if that is important to you. 3. Yes, 1:53 Can you please ''actually'' watch the video before you ask these questions.

@@NexiTech thanks for your answer. i ask because it's not easy for me

Sure! Here it is: FDM Benchmark test - github.com/kickstarter/kickstarter-autodesk-3d/tree/master/FDM-protocol

@@NexiTech thank you!

Rowan Wilding I did not change the nozzle on CR10 v2 it's the standard 0.4mm. On the 0.4mm nozzle you can use typical 0.1 up to 0.3mm layer height.

@@NexiTech Thanks for clearing that up.

@@DJPositron No problem :)

Yes it can.

Yes, you can get it here - Titan extruder for CR10 V2 - bit.ly/2woMEYk