speaking about what my Father taught me. everything I make in my shop now I put my Father's middle name and then my middle name on whatever I make from small woodworking machines, holiday window decorations and yard art.
I like yard art too, I been slowly decorating my parents yard with wrecked cars and heavy equipment, I really hope that neighbors and HOA stick it where the sun dont shine
I have to move the tractor to another property but I can't get the wheels to turn. I pulled the whole tractor out of the bushes 3 years ago after it sat for 15 years, and it rolled fine. Now, after only 3 years, it won't budge. I hooked a big chain from tractor to my truck and yarded on it with about 1 foot slack in chain to start but it just would not budge! I'm thinking it is a gear problem like "in gear" even though the stick is in neutral??? Maybe the brakes are seized up solid. I don't have the time to do a full brake job so in the morning I'm going to disconnect the linkages and take out the drum bolts to spray some PB blaster inside. That may free it up. If it is a gear issue, you'd think that with a hard pull the tractor would still move it ahead a bit. By the way, I think the engine has low compression as you said. It winds over, gets lots of fuel now after the pump rebuild (videos to come) and I set valves and double checked injection pump timing. And, I installed a new suction side filter and new push-on hoses from tank AND 4 new injectors from Amazon. It winds over , may kick a bit even with the heater on it won't start. I'm looking for a piece for my diesel compression tester to adapt to the pencil injector hole. Lots on the go here this spring---too much really, now this.
Yea that sounds like a pickle. Is the hydraulic system relatively intact? You ought to be able to crank the starter and run the stabilizers down until the wheels come up, see if the wheels even move a little bit, as if it's in gear, or not at all, as if the brakes are locked. It's stater abuse for sure so do it in stages. 5-10 seconds cranking, at least 1 minute cooling down. Don't get under the thing though. Those old hydraulics can let go in a split second. Is it possible that you set the parking brake on it? I think you also said that you gave it a small hit of ether before and it sounded more or less alright. You might give that another shot with the fuel on. I don't know but I've heard that those intake manifold heaters aren't really that great. Sorry if this is all old news to you. I'm just running through all the crap I might do if it were me. If it were in gear and that was holding it back, you'd think it would lurch when you're cranking the engine.
My girlfriends Mom has a case 580. I've ran it around a few times; at random the brakes (I'm assuming) will lock-up. I have to rock forward and backwards to free it up. It's a little sketchy to operate. I'm wondering if they're jam-packed full of crud and not releasing or the rivets are loose on the bands. I repair atv's and SXS's for a living. These are alot bigger, lol. Looks like I've got a job when I decide to give it a go. Cool video. It was painful watching with the hand tools (painful as in made my wrists hurt thinking about it) but it got the job done. The lathe was cool. I've never operated one. Looks like you Can do alot with that tool.
You've got a few scenarios. The axle seals could be leaking and you've got oil contamination on your liners, or the brake material is worn right off. I used to operate one where the right brake would lock every time so I had to unlock the pedals and use only the left brake. It took a lot of complaining to even get parts so we could fix it. Either way, it ought to come apart, clean everything out, replace the axle seals, reline the bands and drums. I had a ton of junk in mine too and it sure wasn't helping anything. That lathe has saved me lots of time and money. It's the centerpiece of my shop. Any junk bolt is a pin. Just about any scrap stock is a bushing. You won't find stuff in stores for doing nonsense like this but your lathe makes it possible.
@@heliarche That's really cool, being able to make something out of nothing. I'm sure one of these days I'll tear into it and figure it out. It doesn't move much, but when you need it, you need it.
I don't know if a modern Case certified mechanic is going to touch this machine and I don't know if you'd want him to. I find it doubtful that they'd know how to reline brake bands and drums, and adjust mechanical brakes. Let's figure on a Graybeard that really knows his way around old machinery and this isn't to be quoted yea? If you have that guy tear it down, replace the axle seals, which you really ought to do, re-install, adjust, out the door and figure on a few hours of headaches. I'd think two work days or something like 16 straight hours he ought to be done. That's not to say your machine won't sit at the shop for a week until he gets a spot open for it. All that said, your best bet is to call a likely mechanic and ask him.
What do those two little horrible springs hook on? My drum feels really tight against the shoes, I hope I have the two little springs installed correctly.
What transmission do you have, curious if you have any opinions about the dry clutch or the torque converter style? If one lasts as long as the other, cost to repair
Mine is a dry clutch pretty much like a regular car or truck. I've run both and the torque converter type is quicker to operate if you're running the loader. I was in Job Corps in 1995-96. We had a 1979 Case 580 and it was beaten to hell and back by decades of inner city kids and was still going strong by the time I got to run it. The dry clutch works fine but it can be difficult especially if you get in a situation where you need to use your cutting brakes. If you're going for a machine to make money or working on hilly areas I'd probably go for a torque converter type if you know it's in good shape. If you're just digging holes and pulling stumps for yourself, a clutch style will probably do you fine. As far as cost of repair, I cant really say much. A replacement torque converter would probably cost you more than a replacement clutch kit but it also depends if you're going to split your tractor and replace it yourself. That said, either one will certainly do the job. If you can find either type and it's a solid machine, you're well ahead of the guy that only has a shovel and wheelbarrow.
@@heliarche thanks for sharing your skills. I just a 580ck with torque converter trans with box scraper and hoe for almost free, but have to rebuild the engine. I have excellent mechanical skills in automotive, but never have rebuilt a diesel or repaired heavy equipment. Cant wait to hear that nice diesel sound, it seems like a well engineered machine.
@@samohtnotslar If you get the manuals for it you ought to be fine. Just get the block mag fluxed and pressure tested. I hear they're prone to cracks but I don't know. Better safe than sorry. If it goes tits up, part it out or re-power it.
