Casio CQ-1 Diagnosis and Repair 

@rogerwilco99 Are you actually talking about the past, or describing the present?

Guess you didn't run track, when you were in school? You use the "STARY/STOP button to start and stop, just as it says. Push it to start. Push it again to stop. The "LAP" button is for splits, like if you're timing a two lap race & want to see how fast the first lap was, without stopping the overall timing of the race, you push "LAP" when the first lap is complete. The displayed time will stop, and you can see how long the first lap took, while the stopwatch is still running in the background. You then push "LAP" a second time, and the overall race time is displayed again. When the runners cross the finish line, you push "STOP/START again to stop the overall time.

I owned one just like it, when I was a kid. My father had a drug store, and would sell a few transistor radios, but it was a small store, so he never reslly had many electronic items. I was one of those weird kids, who took old radios & TV's out of trash piles & tinkered with them, sometimes even managing to fix them or at least harvest usable parts for projects. Dad got a Casio CQ-1 in stock around '76 or '77 & I was completely smitten with it, even though I could only look at it through the glass display case. Stopwatches were mostly mechanical, so mostly expensive, in those days, so it was the stopwatch function, which I mostly wanted. Anyhow, I suppose, that Dad noticed me looking at it, everytime, that I'd come to work (your kids were exempt from child labor laws then. Don't know if that's changed or not). Anyhow, Christmas morning came, & lo & behold, Dad gave me the Casio CQ-1. I used it a few years, but it finally quit working, but, by that time, my interest in electronics had switched to girls, who I also sometimes rescued from trash piles, (kidding, but looking back, it seems like it. Of course, I'm no prize myself ), Anyway, I never got around to fixing my CQ-1, & it was eventually discarded. I got back into electronics as my job, when I joined the Army & tinkered a bit now and then, but now, that I'm an old guy, I find myself returning to it as a hobby. It's a great time for it, because of the Internet, mail order parts, etc. Great video. I admire your perseverance! ...I'll bet it was the same fault on my CQ-1, but alas, it's long gone...

@@sparky6086 Awesome story! Glad I sent it to him to fix so you could relive that :)

I'm used to the lap button on stop watches starting a new timer but still running a total in the background. So you could time a single lap and the entire thing. I guess this way does something similar but you wouldn't see the time between lap 1 and lap 2 with it like this. So I guess it works, it just sucks.

Yep, gives you time to write the laptime down, this is how stopwatches have always worked iirc.

If you still have that QL10, it's rare now. Don't sell it! (Or at least do at a high price)

Yeah, but It's a massive pain with my setup. My lenses rotate the threads when focusing and the macro shots are done with a reversing ring. So I'd be adjusting it for every single shot. Maybe if I had an ND mount for between the body and lens I would do it. But those aren't cheap.

@@TechTangents You've got a 3d printer, right? ;)

That's super cool, I love finding stuff like that!

Now you made me google Abu Akbar LOL

xD ciao!

I got a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k. I wanted to get one of the new Nikon Z Series mirrorless cameras after they teased them nearly a year ago. But they made some really poor choices with those. I did a video on modding a Nikon to MF3 lens adapter where I joked about it a bit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NIW_xqaLf0M.html but really, if I have to by an adapter to use my F-Mount lenses on a new Nikon, why shouldn't I play the field instead with a different brand altogether? So it's their own fault really. The Z7 or Z6 couldn't do 4k60 which was a must for anything I was going to buy. And they didn't offer a lot in a quality increase. Still no ProRes or even bother to list the bitrates. After looking at other options once the specs were released on the Nikon, I "settled" on the BMPCC4K. By "settled" I mean, got a MASSIVE upgrade! It is a real video camera, not a photo camera pulling double duty. I will say that I don't recommend it for most people though, it's a camera geared towards manual operation. It doesn't even do continuous auto focus and the auto exposure is laughably slow. I always use my cameras in full manual since it gives me the best control, so switching to a manual centric camera only helped me shoot better. I love this camera, it was the right choice for me. I'm shooting in ProRes 422 in a log color space and editing with the included full version of Davinci Resolve, which works on Linux. I'm not done getting more image quality out of this setup. At some point I'm going to get a speedbooster lens adapter which will correct the sensor size difference between the Nikon APS-C lenses I'm using and the BMPCC4K's MF3 sensor. I'll also be getting a new GPU which will let me better leverage Resolve and it's powerful noise canceling. I've done some tests, it does a great job without sacrificing quality. But my 2GB GTX 960 can't handle doing it on full 4k60 footage. And some lighting upgrades are going to be up soon which will reduce some of the glare I had in this video but also just give me more light to work with in general. At some point I'll be doing a full walk through video of my setup, so if there is more you want to know feel free to ask because it could be good to add that in.

@@TechTangents Brilliant summary, thank you. I considered the BMPCC4K myself but there were two dealbreakers for me: 1. No IBIS 2. No autofocus. I know for "product videography" you use a tripod and manual focus anyway, but auto is really nice for macro lenses, you get the focus and then switch to manual, much nicer than fiddling around. I look forward to your "my video production method" video. My only recommendation is that you try to shoot 10-bit, since the log colorspace is irreparably mangled by an 8-bit colorspace. Keep up the great work!

I had to double check to be sure, but the BMPCC4K can't record as low as 8bit, 10bit is the minimum: wolfcrow.com/blog/important-quirks-and-features-of-the-blackmagic-pocket-cinema-camera-4k-for-video-shooters/ Blackmagic is working on an open RAW format that will record in 12bit with some more real world file sizes. When FFMPEG gets support for that I'll switch to it, I keep all my footage after re-encoding it to h265 for storage space. They have what seems to be a pretty good manual for the API: documents.blackmagicdesign.com/DeveloperManuals/BlackmagicRAW-SDK/20181113-4029e7/BlackmagicRAW-SDK.pdf and there seems to be a lot of interest, so I don't think it will be long.

The 34401A is great, but the other tools I'm using are at the same caliber as well. I'm using Metcal MX-500 soldering irons (I did a "repair" video a while back on one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FAipMcwfuqI.html). The tips manage the temp and you can buy them rated for maximum output ( www.okinternational.com/metcal/english/globalnavigation/applications/hand-soldering/what-is-smartheat ). It's the best iron I've ever used. I had a fat tip on in this video because I knew it was all through hole and that I could go quicker than with my fine SMT tips. I think all the macro shots made it look like a plumbing iron with how close I got the camera. The Soldapullt I'm using is actually really good( amzn.to/2Rp7Shp ), it isn't your $5 one from a local hobby store. It's consistent, strong, cleanable, and you can get replacement tips for $3 and even a full refurb kit ( www.edsyn.com/product/DS017MK.html the brush is the bulk of the cost ). A vacuum iron is on my list for convenience, but the Soldapullt is worth using for small stuff. I probably would have used a powered one here if I had it though since it was through two PCBs.

solder suckers actually work surprisingly well once you get a go0d technique and you aren't afraid of damaging the tips in the process, since you have to get the whole tip almost in complete contact with the pad for the vacuuming to work well

That's funny! The video was running long with the keyboard part of the repair so I didn't want to put too much more time into looking at the nitty gritty details of using this. That makes sense though.

@@TechTangents I just edited my comment and added a link to another video I found. He demonstrates the cool date calculation features as well.

Many people even systems people didn't know or forgot the leap year rule for the year 2000. It is a leap year if divisible by 4 but NOT a leap if the year is divisible by 400 hence it is one day out.

@@retroretiree2086 That's slightly wrong. It's not a leap year when divisible by 100, unless it's divisible by 400. So 2000 was a leap year, and programmers who didn't know the rule got lucky.

@@JamesPotts: So I see. I must have remembered it incorrectly. It was quite a while back I worked on that.

Ummmm... 12x3 DOES equal to 36. So it isn't broken.

And it worked !!!! Thanks man.

I had a Parker Jotter taken off my desk around a year ago, so I feel your pain. Things haven't been the same since TBH.

Wat

I understood literally nothing in either of those sentences.

I like opening all the mail at once, it make it more fun. But for some items I need to get more stuff, order parts, or do a lot of testing. They aren't all equivalently easy to make videos on. And not all of them are going to get unique videos either (I'm not going to do a dedicated video on each version of Ubuntu for instance). So it is variable which ones I'll do when, but in general I will try to do them in FIFO order baring delays and other non mail videos.

Less weed though :D

Druaga1 if he had any idea what he was talking about ever