I will be Cerakoting a Montana rifle in OD green. I had some trouble with oil leaching out from the barrel and dealing with a dropped part. All sorts of fun.
Great vid, have you had any issues due to applying the cerakote inside the action? Are the actions still "smooth" or do they hang up at all? I was looking into the Micro Slick but it just seems extremely complicated to apply micro slick to the inside of the action and then regular cerakote the outside? Especially because I'll be DIY-ing this without the recommended equipment.
Cera coat inside the action has not been an issue for me. Having a properly prepped and profiled part is an extremely important step of the process, make sure not to skip that step. One thing I have learned the hard way is making sure to get all the sand out of the action. I have had a few I've had to redo because there was a little bit of residual sand in the front of the action and when I sprayed the paint in there it blew back and got into the wet cerakote in the action. That left a sandpaper like finish. Obviously not good. I always test the action of a bolt gun before I give it back to a customer, it's good quality control. I have had some tighter tolerance items get a little stiff and have found if I add a little oil and work it a bit. It laps in real nice. Good luck to you. And some advice, never skimp on equipment.
If you can mask off the inside of the action (not sure which action you have) then mask it off if the action is DLC or Nitrided. If carbon steel or stainless, maybe you can consider Cerakoting it. (Nitriding or DLC are superior treatments to Cerakote) I made the mistake of Cerakoting the inside of my Tikka T3x as well as the bolt, and after some time it began to sort of "gum up" as the finish wore. Still functional, but the trademark "glass rod" smoothness of the T3x action is gone. The original finish was Nitrided black and I should have left it that way. Learned my lesson. (all Cerakote processes were followed to the letter)
