Not for the base coat. If you are doing multiple coats, you'll want to plug any holes so you don't have build up. You do want to plug the chamber of any barrels before sanding, and don't get any coating in there.
Dial the cone down, set the volume, and just tap the trigger. Do that from both ends to get the first couple of inches. Other than that, you get plenty of coating through the slots to coat the rest of the inside. We have a pretty good video on how to do tight areas.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iweD_Ep8Vtg.html
Do you mask off the inside of the handguard during the sandblasting? Or dial it down and tap the trigger?? Similar to the inside of the m1a you just did?
Sandblast like normal. During coating, we dial the cone down and spray in from both ends. That gets the first couple of inches. The middle gets plenty of coating through the slots while doing the outside.
I see u sprayed the dust cover. Did you have to cover the locking chrome button on the inside or did you just spray it all? Also I see u sprayed the castle nut. I’m thinking of doing the same but they always get marred when tightening down. But seeing you spray it, I just may do mine.
They make that detent with a pretty sloppy tolerance, so we've never had an issue. Try wrapping the castle nut in a little high heat tape before torquing it down.
@@bgriff2517 No on the brake cleaner, it always seems to leave a residue, and 99% of the time additional degreasing isn't needed. We just blow it off with high pressure air.
@@fordman32508 It doesn't do much protection wise, but if the outside is bright pink, and the inside is black, some customers feel like they didn't get what they paid for. It only takes about 4 mil of coating, and 2-3 minutes of spraying.
Question.. I have only one Iwata sprayer.. what would you do to clean it between colors? Completely break it down, run acetone through it til it runs clear, or just put other color in and run it on paper til it comes out desired color? Thanks for your wisdom.
We clean between each color. The cleaning process, including the glass, only takes about three minutes. Your parts have to hang for a minimum of 8 minutes before going into the oven, so there's time left over.
It's been a little while, but I want to say we paid about $3,000. That included the booth, one light, the duct fan and duct, and the first set of filters. I bartered with a contractor and an electrician for the labor to install. Worth every penny, but it is a bit of a luxury and not the first place I'd spend upgrade money.
Spray everything the same, pop it all in the oven at 180 for about 10 minutes to get it absolutely tack free. Leave the polymer in, but take the metal out. Bake the polymer for 2 hours at 180. Take it out, and crank the oven up to 300. Put the metal in, and bake for 1 hour. Just a note, some colors aren't baked at 300, even on metal.
John can you elaborate on that last comment? Which colors can not be taken to 300*?....I have some bright colors I just stocked up on, hopefully the heat doesn’t cook it too bad???
A lot of the brighter colors can only max out at 250 for 2 hours. If you go to Cerakote's site and click on the tech sheets tab, it tells you the max temp for the colors.
Congratulations on working, my friend! I am now starting with cerakote because I only use oxidation and phosphatization. I am in doubt which colors to start for testing. Any suggestions? Another question is it necessary to put the cerakote series c in the gun pipes and rifles? What would be the cheapest place to buy these inks without being in the NIC, help me? Thank You Branson
Graphite Black and FDE are probably the easiest to spray. I always stock Hunter Orange and Burnt Bronze because you can mix those two colors in different ratios and get a lot of different results. I only use C series on electronics and cheap scopes. I have yet to have someone tell me they've had a heat issue with H series on a barrel. NIC is going to be the best place. I think you can get it a couple of other places, but the cost is the same and "freshness" is an issue. Thanks for watching.
This one is hard plastic, not rubber. It went in at 180, and did fine. When I get a rubber grip in, or anything I'm not super comfortable with, I leave the risk of it up to the customer. I always tell them that I'll guarantee the product, if they'll guarantee the item. Rubber grips, rail covers, etc are a little iffy. I bake them at 150, or just shoot them with C series depending on what the customer wants to do.
Hello Branson! what color of cerakote do you advise me to paint the mass and aiming strap for better sight? Or do you have a better product? Thank you for the tips
Love your videos, super informative! For the bright colors of Cerakote, do you need a white or light gray base coat to get the color to pop better and use less "exotic" color layers?
Normally, for a chassis, I'd mix 48-60 depending on which coating it is. A lot depends on skill level, and the gun you use. It may go up another 12 from there.
