If you haven’t tried them already. I suggest trying the renegade blades. I have a Husqvarna 324L and I cut through 3-5 “ thick threes without a single issue. I love them and I’ve been using the same one for about 2 years
Glad to hear it. I've had a new one now for a couple months and plan to test it out as soon as I get caught up on a few other videos. I have plenty of tall weeds/brush to test it out on. Hopefully I can get to it in the next couple of weeks.
Hi I'm a recent newcomer to the world of strmming etc.. This channel of yours is wickedl & you are awesome.. I live in the UK so the weather's pretty wet & miserable at times & stuff grows so quickly.. Many Thanks 👍
I have the Husqvarna 535LK and use the 225-24T blade, it's fantastic! Also great for mulching blades and an absolute monster for strimming! Hats off Husqvarna!
I had an attachment like that back in 1994ish, sold under the snapper name, worked well, just keep the blades sharp and keep bystanders away. I think I still have parts from it somewhere along with that 3 point blade .
I just bought this blade last week, Haven't used it yet but I had 1 back in the 90's with a loops of chain around the edge,But you couldn't get the chain any more, I think it's a great idea for making rid of stuff like you had.
Thanks mate for the content I ordered one of these yesterday off Amazon and I’m not sure that it will fit my 20 year old Honda but all we can do is give it a try the idea is brilliant
I wear chaps and a Husqvarna hard hat/face shield when using it. If you cut it on the 9 o'clock to 12 position of the blade it works well. If you cut from the 12-3 oclock to 3, it gets dangerous. You might like a carbide tipped saw blade style better.
@@MarkThomasBuilder oh I used it, even resharpened the blade ...... but was happy to eventually take it off ..... kick back and binds with an “exposed sling chain saw disc” was never too comforting ...... eventually, I dulled the cutters and I lost effective cutting ...... medieval type torture device ......
Oh and by the way very informative video, I just purchased the Echo SRM 3020U and I'm hoping to clear 3 acres of bramble and briar on my property with that same blade and one other 2 tooth blade, thanks again Mark !
@@MarkThomasBuilder a larger blade spinning at the same speed as a smaller one will have a faster cutting edge speed. a 9'' blade in one full revolution will cover 28.26 inches whereas a 4 inch blade will cover 12.56 inches per revolution so over twice the cutting speed at the edge for the same rpms. no way the less weight of the smaller blade can offset the cutting edge speed of the larger blade.
I am going to try this next week. I was thinking that that advantage over a chain saw is that you can cut as ground surface without leaning over at an awkward angle. Thanks for the vid.
I bet that's pricey , I bought a carbide blade meant for a circular saw for less than 10 bucks. I drilled the arbor hole bigger with a step drill ,fis perfectly and works awesomely.
The reason why you have to go right to left is that the cutter teeth only face one direction. If you try to cut the opposite way it won't work since it's away from the cutter teeth.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Not a problem, it's a pretty common mistake as it feels more natural to cut in both directions. If you've compared this style of blade to the traditional brushcutter saw blades, I'd be interested in hearing your preference. I tend to find regular saw blades stay sharper longer when exposed to more dirty wood. However, the chain cutters on these types of blades are a little easier to sharpen.
Morning sir, you should use 60 teeth 8 inch sercular wood saw blade with carbide teeth for this kind of application. I am using it for last 5 years and I get excellent results than the blade you are using in video.
the chainsaw blade cuts saplings better than the blade you are referring to. it is like cutting a small log with a circular saw vs using a chainsaw. no contest really.
I read you're only supposed to use the part of the blade from the 9-12 o'clock position for blades that turn counter clockwise and I assume from 3-12 on blade that spin clockwise. Supposed to help prevent kickback. It would be nice if the blade guard was made to cover the respective area you shouldn't use. I know a lot of pros don't use a guard at all.YMMV
The best blade is the stamped steel one by Husky or sthil. Forester is too heavy and thick. I've used them all for 5-6 years now in my business. You must get the file and setting tool to keep them sharp. It's like having a short pole saw. Very handy and fast.
@@MarkThomasBuilder It's a good blade... once. It lasted a little longer than Forester or steel blade but you can't sharpen it. It's light and responsive and thin so it cuts easier. I've worn out at least 10 steel blades from use and sharpening. They have been the best for me for regular use since I can sharpen them.
years ago I made my own. useing 8" saw,blade..i,put a cutter the same,distance as a, chain saw blade..man did it work great...then Made one with a 10" blade...the 8 was better
I have never found those brush cutters with the little 30+cc engines really up to the task of running a blade, they are just for running chord to cut light weight green stuff and your video seems to confirm this given the slow progress you were making. When cutting more woody stuff, is it any better than just using old table saw blades, that is what I do, and having experimented with all sorts of cutting heads, I find table saw TCT table saw blades about the best for really woody stuff. Other than that chord is best for grass and a solid steel bar blade, like a mower blade, seems about the best for larger green and light weight woody stuff. Most of the 'gadget' blades, I have tried over the years, are no better than those I have mentioned and usually worse. But I'm always up for trying something new. But for heavy woody stuff you really want a 50+cc machine, even on heavy green stuff those 30+cc machines labour, they are just a pain after a while, get yourself a bigger machine.
I still haven't decided which blade style I like best. I made another video since this one, showing a table saw style carbide blade that worked well. The 3 point blade is good for tall weeds.
If you find it difficult to use a blade with a machine that is less than 50cc, than your technique is wrong. I've had good results with 25cc Ryobi 2 stroke, and 30cc Honda 4 stroke, using a carbide tipped blade. A common mistake I see in many users is that they swing the rotating blade at a tree branch or thick brush, causing a hard contact that can cause the blade to stop rotating or bounce off. The correct way to cut thick brush or tree limb is to get the rpm up and gradually approach the work and get the blade profile angle in the direction of the cut and let the blade do the cutting but don't apply too much pressure on the blade. Approach the work as if you're using a circular saw. Also, do a pre-inspection where you're going to use a blade to cut. You don't want the rotating blade to come in contact with metal post or rocks or sprinklers. With a carbide blade I've trimmed hedges, tree limbs, and thick brushes. I've also used a carbide blade to clear an area full of bamboos. I could have used a chainsaw but didn't. Good luck.
A hand applied branch lopper just as fast, no danger no loads of expensive protective gear no weird blades. Alternatively a small chainsaw would do the job in seconds.
I understand you're doing a video, and for that I think you did a good job. And I really like the Echo trimmer. However, I believe a 52cc brush cutter w/chain saw would do the same job in 20-30 seconds without even breathing hard. Plus, a conventional 60-tooth carbide saw blade would do the job also much faster simply because it has more teeth to cut with than the blade you used. It also seems the "blade" is a compromise tool of a saw blade and chain saw. I've learned through experience "compromise" tools rarely do anything very well.
Those are some good points. The blade looked very interesting and did a nice job on the small trees and saplings. I did see a 60-tooth 9" carbide blade that Forester sells. It probably does a better overall job on weed and sapling mix.
At the time when I first bought the Echo prower Pruner attachment I was using the Echo 225 PAS and would struggle with both extinction. Then I switched to the 280 PAS made a would of a difference on reaching those hard to get limbs. With both extinction attachments gives me around 14feet and I didn't want to spend around 700 to 800 dollars STIHL or Echo for the same size length of 14feet and have only a single use tool.
I just discovered a hand Pruner that that has the same treads as a paint roller so it can be used with and extinction pole for even further research. Go to Amazon and search. ASIN# B00KPOI7E2 Hand Pruner 29.00 Hand Pruner with pole 24ft ASIN# B07N8JBNMQ 79.99 Home depot 23-25 feet 39.97 Hope this helps...
Thanks bro. I have this blade but it didn't fit in my weed eater. Mine doesn't accept attachments. :( Gotta get back to work and buy a new one to fit the blade.
If I cut the brush from the 9-12 0'Clock position on the saw, there's no kickback. The kickback in the video was from me using it near the 2 O'Clock position.
@@MarkThomasBuilder The reason why you have to go right to left is that the cutter teeth only face one direction. If you try to cut the opposite way it won't work since it's away from the cutter teeth.
I had that issue when trying the brush blade for the first time. It required me getting the right combination of adapters in place. Once I did, it spins freely. Sorry I can't help more without looking at it.
It cuts the weeds a bit along with the bushes. You may need to stop occasionally to untangle the weeds. For tall weed cutting, the tri-tip blade works well.
@@MarkThomasBuilder Thank you. I wanted a blade that can 1) mulches/grindes the weed from top down (like hydraulic mulchers does ) 2) and in same blade i also need side teeths like the one in your video, which should be able to cut the thick bushes stems. This way I dont need to fit two blades . Any combination of blades you have ever come across for brush cutters ?
I haven't seen anything really that's made to mulch weeds from the top down. The tri-tip blade might be your best bet. It will cut small saplings and weeds very well.
@@MarkThomasBuilder sorry I use one to build 4 wheeler trails professionally I like my regular sthil brush blade that thing looks like it grabs too much and on small trees,
Hell no!!! I would never use that dangerous tool! Not safe at all. You could not use that commercially with other trimmers around you, it could catch and swing into someone and cause serious injury. Thumbs down!!!
I doubt I would but I do run a beaver blade on mine. It is similar but has an actual chainsaw chain that is replaceable. I owned mine for years before I had to replace the chain for the first time. No slamming it around, just ease it through the tree as you would a chainsaw. Can be easily sharpened also. I've cut 7 inch trees with a 9inch blade no problem.
Perdón por la calificación pero para ese tipo de cortes debes sacarle el guardabarros es muy peligroso como lo estas haciendo y respetar el margen de contacto. Saludos
Several companies now offer brush blades for their battery powered trimmers. I think this blade would work, but it might be a little heavier than their stock brush blade.
Not for the average homeowner I could see that going wrong in a hurry there's no way you're going to get the average Joe to wear that much safety equipment that is a must need thanks for the video I'll stick to my chainsaw LOL
Chainsaws are the most dangerous power tools you can buy. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), approximately 36,000 people are injured by chainsaws annually. The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches...Yes, in America one can buy anything and use it without proper training.
I'm not sure of the size off hand. I got the ECHO Brush Blade Kit and the adapters came with it. You can get them on Amazon if you search ECHO trimmer adapters. Your local ECHO dealer is probably your best bet though.
That's a good point. Once in awhile, I have to cut on the wrong side of the blade when the conditions exist. I take it slow and don't cut anything too thick.
You have to use the same technique as if you were using a chainsaw, that's why it's kicking it off. Get on the opposite side of the lean. Other than that thanks for reviewing the blade.
@@MarkThomasBuilder thanks for the information, I realize not all is made in china. Many Japanese products are of fantastic quality. ESPECIALLY guns and parts made miroku.
I had the ECHO Brush Blade Kit which came with the tri tip steel blade. It also had many of the adapters to run a brush blade. Do you have a local ECHO dealer to ask? Otherwise you might get something shipped from ECHO.
I think the brush blade is closer to you feet on a curved shaft, making a brush blade dangerous. The curved shaft is normally lighter duty with a smaller engine.
That brush cutter is running terrible at higher revs. Lean your mixture out it's running too rich. It looks new and I know the manufacturers set them to run rich for the first 5 to 10 hours of use to run them in better. Just my opinion. Thanks Mark
Anyone ever use a chain saw? What happens when you're cutting through a log and you accidentally hit the dirt with the CHAIN. Yep, have to sharpen it for one hit. When he started it the blade was already on the ground. In this situation if you let that shrub get out of control plus need to clear the area he wants to put a fire pit, go rent a walk behind DR. Otherwise as a property owner go buy the right tools for the job. living on even a small acreage you need tools! If you don't or wont buy the equipment let it grow, or move in to a gated community and let someone else do the work...
Your not quite doin it right. Get the unit up to max rpms and once your there you swing the head to the left at what your wanting to cut and bam it's threw like butter. Not trying to tell you how to do it but that's how I was taught and it works well for me. I have taken down 3 inch trees doing that method In one swipe.
No it's not. I do this type of cutting all the time with a different brush blade in my business. Weed eater and brush blade goes from ground level to 10 feet high in seconds while my saw, pole saw and extended hedge trimmer sits in the truck. You can't hit the dirt but once with chain saw.
No entiendo los idiomas por hace años le había desmontado una cadena de motosierra i dientes selos pusiera aún disco y Ami me funcionaba pero mi padre era eeeeee no se como decir era mala persona i decía que era una mirada pero bueno cada uno tiene su castigó se murió para mi
