The "C" on your instrument display indicates that the car is starting in second gear, which means that you actually are not shifting into fifth gear. One of the solenoids controls both the 1-2 shift (which you aren't using) and the 4-5 shift which isn't working, so I suspect that solenoid is the problem. Assuming that your new conductor plate is working properly, a new OBD2 scan may show a code for the solenoid in question. In any event, I would change that solenoid, which is not expensive, before considering another transmission.
to change computers you first have to program the new one with the vehicle VIN number. your problem might be beyond what the scan tool is telling you (such as a broken wire, bad switch, ect. between the identified problem and the computer). get the schimatics and trace the wireing back to the computer. you could also try the BI DIRECTIONAL feature on your scan program to see if you can activate 4th gear to help you narrow down your problem. try watching SOUTH MAIN AUTO to learn more about this stuff. good luck with your fix
Listen, I love what you do and the fleet you have. I enjoy those cars as well but not as brave as you, and I give you tons of credit, you seem to not hesitate to dive right in. So HOPING one of us members works on MB and knows which way for you to go. Sorry, I'm not the one to help but I am gonna put the word out to some European mechanical buddies and see who or what they can find out. I wrote down what you have and what you did and I think we all could at least ask. Thanks for another one, Mike. Sonny (CT)
Mike, took the 300ce to Denver, took it into the shop at 8:30 am and had the mechanic take apart the control module, fix it, and back on the road back to Pierre by 1:45 pm. Long trip but so worth it! So all is good with the convertible top. Just in time for the winter snowfall! Thanks for helping me to try to locate a replacement!
Mike, since it wouldn't go n2 4th gear u just HOPED that cleaning solenoids wood do the trick! But it didn't. Also u r spot on in mentioning the tranny electrical connector which gets hardened up. Electrical issues 1st then mechanical!!
What you were told about the new conductor plate is quite plausible. As it was sold through someone who isn't an approved Mercedes-Benz source then the factory warranty may well not apply. In some countries, to remove confusion, it would be required to remove the original identification to prevent people trying to warranty parts sourced other than through M-B. It's far from unusual with obsolete dealer stock, and it's pretty common to get a part like that in the original box with the logos blacked out. Of course, it could also be a dodgy knock-off part but a cheap copy probably wouldn't have the section for the Merc script and part number in the same place, or at all, as that would increase the cost of the tooling used to make the parts and decrease profit...
I also ended up with a car that had the computer flooded and speed sensor out. After changing all the electronics mine had a hard kickdown to 2nd (Italian tuneup seems to have fixed the hard kickdown - fingers crossed.) Star Diagnostic only reported the controller as needing to be programmed to the car. I don't believe it's necessary to program a controller that is the same market, but if you can get a programming from the dealer get it just to be sure. One electrical connector I bought had O-rings that were too thick, so was unable to install it. Had to get another connector.
Gloves yup, better late than never, haha. I buy one time use aluminum turkey roasting pans, Sam's Club but can find them at the supermarkets, low cost and good to put the valve body parts in to keep all safe and clean. I also get small paper drinking cups to put valve body springs and other small parts in, use a sharpie to mark each cup with a good description of each part. I think the guy is right about watching out for trash parts, that conductor place still could be the problem. I also think it is electrical and not 4 gear, but anything is possible. Do you have access to any service manuals for that transmission? You could air pressure test to see if the 4th gear piston is applying pressure to the clutch pack.
The part number on the trans computer you swapped in started with 030 and the one that came out of it started with 032. It's a different generation of computer...
The TCU modules have to be virgin online SCN coded to the vehicle using a SDS system. You cannot just swap them in from another car. It's about $1000 for the module and programming at the dealer. I had to do this when my TCU got wet and failed.
Sadly, I suspect the condition of the transmission fluid that was changed not long ago rather suggests a more significant problem with the transmission such as clutch packs or similar internal parts failing. As you said the fluid smelled burned again already I think it could be safe to say that transmission is done as the fluid shouldn't be that full of burned contaminants so quickly...
The typical fluid change only replaces about 40% of the fluid because the torque converter isn't drained. If the old fluid was really bad, it takes a few successive fluid changes to get it looking good again. Drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive, drain fill, drive.
Mike, I had a 1913 Mercedes CLQR 900 with a 17-speed tranny that had the exact same problem, except it would skip 14th gear and then go into reverse. I removed all 5 conductor plates and rewired the stern gland, but to no avail. But I got a rare copy of a Polish DIY Tranny Guide Book and found the answer... Get yourself a correlated flexible pipe about 7.8 meters long and run it from the center exhaust manifold into the middle console cup holder, then drive rapidly about 23 or 24 minutes. You will discover that will chill you out and you will not notice any skipped or missing gears at all. In fact the car will just seem to run perfect. Do not, repeat, do not drive more than 25 minutes or I can not be held responsible for what happens. 👿 Good Luck!
I noticed per your dash at 19:11 that are driving in C or Comfort mode which starts out in 2nd gear. Switch it to S or Sport mode for normal, every day driving and see how that changes things.
I had same problem with my 2005 E320 4matic and I just changed conductive plate 8 months ago and car drive fine till today and I use valvoline full synthetic transmission fluid, try manual shift
i have fixed those mechtronics before you just have to find the lead thats not connected then add a wire or split the plastic case and solder the broken trace...
1st, as a theft deterrent, the ECU, TCU, EIS and Shifter are married to one another. The EXACT numbers on the parts have to be the same as the ones you are replacing. 2nd, how's the tranny fluid level? Wont run right is the fluid is high or low. Change HALF of the fluid...not all with MB specific tranny fluid. Generally, you should measure what you takenout and replace exactly that amount. Sometimes the Conductor Plates are trash from the outside sellers. Spend the $200 aand get it from FCPEuro. If that doesnt work, test the actual Valve Body. I believe you have a 722.6 and they should be swap and play. The 722.9s are married. At worse case if it is a bad tranny, they are available everywhere for cheap
I swapped my TCU. Car ran fine without any programming. Star Diagnostic setup from China saw the controller as needing programming and reported a few TCU settings but they seemed fine with what they were set to.
I heard a distinct click when he put power across it, plus, when you're testing them like that, you can feel it activate and return. I don't think this is an electronic issue, the condition of the transmission fluid after only being in there for a little while strongly suggests that there are badly worn and probably damaged mechanical components inside the transmission as the burnt smell to the fluid is caused by particulate contaminants collecting in the fluid...
Wow it’s great that you can pull stuff apart like it’s no big deal!👍 This is a hard one, is it the 5 speed “722.6” or 7 speed “722.9” unit?? It could be a mechanical problem like you said being that the electronics seem to be checking out., With 191K hard to say if it had regular 40k fluid changes,, Otherwise they are both pretty solid transmissions with the fluid being kept fresh.,
@@MonkeyWrenchMike what's up Mike a have a 03 cl500 need to know the correct conductor plate trying to make sure I do not order the wrong one off eBay is it the 722.6 I did not take it out yet
Hey Mike, i have 2005 CL500 i had similar issue, took it in and replaced the whole valve body and plates, my understanding is you can not just swap parts even new ones, all these parts need programming in order to communicate, each has its own code... i hope this helps
the replacement body valve was a factory new, the reason i had it replaced because it was not an original one for the 05 CL, it was a version of the 722.9 from an older S class, so i replaced it with a new for 05CL, always check #vin of the car to get right part, a digit difference in a part serial # is a red flag that the part is not a match for that particular model /year, the 722.9 is very reliable and bullet proof transmission, i wouldn't worry too much about the internal gears, they use it in S/ CL /E /GL even the late model cars , most problems with 722.9 are electrical such as plug connectors and plates
oops my bad, i meant the conductor plate and that round electric connector, this has been my experience with at least 5 cars equipped with the 722.6 and 722.9 transmissions, its not a big deal just do little more research, i was told that clearing the errors after swapping parts is not enough, some kind of programming is needed for the components to communicate with the module and the computer.
@@MonkeyWrenchMike The conductor plate is actually a series of plates. Since you already replaced the conductor plate with a new one, that rules out the plates. But that solenoid with the weak click is a serious point of contention. I'd change it and see what happens. I would also drain and fill the tranny a few times over the course of a few weeks to ensure fresh fluid is running through the trans. You gotta drive it in between fills though.
@@MonkeyWrenchMike if you ever need that machine fix it be my pleasure, cost of parts, and i can walk you thru it not hard to break that machine open, parts are very cheap
How do I know I'm ordering the correct conductor plate I have a 2003 CL 500 I tried eBay I just want to know what the correct transmission size order part number I'm trying to get a complete rebuilt with the solenoids and you help anyone
Use your vin and go to a Mercedes vin decoder website. That will give you the exact transmission number in your CL. Then you can find the correct conductor plate. Good luck!
@@MonkeyWrenchMike have you tested the solenoids with an ohm meter? ive seen a video where a guy bench tests each solenoid, I don't remember their tolerances.
@@MonkeyWrenchMike Hmmm, it seems someone at Mercedes-Benz knew that filled for life wouldn't mean for life... So why the bloody hell did they try and sell them like that???...
@@gosportjamie They state you don't need to but that pan fits about a zillion of their models. Same as on my 04 CLK 500. I think it was more of a marketing idea , but i still change mine every 100 km. It's cheap easy maintenance, I'm at 250,000 km and she shifts like new
my 2 cents: post satan on market place as a run & drive with issues. and let satan haunt some else's garage. you've gotten enough new gray hairs for satan haunting your garage.
Having had some issues with an older Mercedes, I believe your tcu needs to be programmed to your vin/car. I'm also including this great transmission relearn procedure provided by another RU-vidr, maybe give this a try with the tcu that you were able to start the car with. Great Videos! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lqNlaejlAeM.html
Take my advice and get rid of the engine and the transmission gear and replace them with lexus 430 V8 and enjoy the appearance of mercedes and the reliability of toyota as I did with my car.
@@MonkeyWrenchMike you have to replace the computers that control the engine and the transmission with lexus one. Plus other modifications like the engines mountains .
My w220 starts and everything but sometimes it doesn’t pop up when it’s in gear and it starts not shifting; then I restart it and everything starts working fine.
Sounds electrical to me. Check the connector going in to the tranny pay . Trans oil can leak out and wick it’s way all the way up into the trans computer. You might also need a valve body. Usually people replace both at once. Good luck!
