It's an incredible wave, so enigmatic, the way it hollows out on the face must make it difficult to take off late and keep the nose from nose diving. As an ex surfer who surfed since 8 years old I can totally respect that place even though I've never been anywhere near it, and totally respect those who surf it. Every time there's a new Mavericks video on youtube I stop everything to watch it, I've even kept my mac computer at the Mavericks OS as homage to the great cold green wave..:)
Yeah thanks I just glad there really was a guy name frosty,for real,actor did an intense job of playing the part,really thought the intensity of frosty character was spot on not to dramatic,but regular life stuff kinda makes u want to explode,just daily bullshit,true or not personality wise it was good movie stuff and the movie for me stayed believable,I don't know the facts of real life but it was good journey and that useally makes a good movie...THANKS y'all.
Yeah dawg,yeah that's weird how they just discount like 3 feet of rise and fall and i see contest or guys surfing.12 foot shit for sure and they say oh it a solid eight,I could see if they said oh its solid 15 foot u mite be surfing by yourselves,it just so cool now that I saw that technic of finding the out going water it still a marvel how u guys get thru this powerful wave just hang out and know exactly where to be to be able to do what u do,Mavericks is sick mainly because I have seen that some times there seems to be after a couple waves a mad rush of water right over the in coming wave so u hit a stalled conveyer belt on the face also I noticed it useally windy on those moments when the drop seems to pause and people out the front door...thanks I had not heard to much talk of foam,I guess a warm weather issue,huh...piece out...I think if I was gonna give a solid attempt some 4 to 6 footers would be rad enuf....for now I dealing with bowl skating...great job on the movie just say inspired...
Thanks yeah I forget that,dude said it hits a 20 foot shelf,thanks good stuff...so basically u just bust ur ass to calmly as u can to get back to the surface before next wave pulls u down....thanks Jay,for that explanation,I know most don't probably like to talk about it.But I just wondered what u do ride it out and wait to it clears but u gotta get ur self back its strong water hold down deal....thanks.
I don’t notice it quite as much anymore, the way dudes are surfing *it these days, but back then, it was a bit of a party wave, similar to that of Wiamea.
![CHASING MAVERICKS - [behind the scenes] DAY OF JAYS [POWERLINES]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
