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Benefit of having such a peak in the subwoofer range is: once you EQ it down, it will make less excursion in that frequency range, (bc you put less energy into it), which should result in a more dynamic response of the driver.
Thank you for this video, I cant wait for the next one to see what improvements kick location brings, but this looks pretty damn good already! I now have to decide what to do with mine..
Thanks for this video Peter! Hope to see the chop chop parts, when you will cut for those ib woofer! This swift will be crazy! Thanks again and have great year end ;-)
WOW. nice breakdown of the RTA. I'm in the planning phase of my new project, a 2017 Honda Accord Touring with Nav. I hope I hope I have enough room to locate a pair of these.
I feel lucky to have heard the steg mss3 4’’ drivers in Peters car and I cannot explain how incredible they sound. They’re clear and they’re loud and will shock many people as they did me.
For someone considering upgrading from a 2 way (Steg SQ650C) to 3 way, what else (apart from the 3 way Steg MSS) should I consider? I'm in Australia. I'm running a Helix M SIX DSP and an IDQ12.
Thnx for the videos and the informations peter, it did help me with my install. However i have one question, i have an audible floor noise (white noise) coming from all speakers, i tried to lower the gains but the noise is still there it’s not as loud as before but it’s noticeable, although the noise is gone when i unplugged the rca cables from the amp! I’m running pac amppro ch41 using my factory radio and audicontrol dsp amp Could it be the pac amppro or amp fault? Help plz
Peter, there is a JBL sub fuse twin equivalent of focal. It's 7db more sensitive with same 200w rms. It also has passive radiator. Try it out next time. People from DIYMA really liked it
Awesome video Peter, thank you. It's really helpful to see how you deal with a less than ideal system and you are the only pro that I see not "poo-poo"ing boost. If I may ask, when I measure full range for a midrange, do I need a high pass like the 1Khz on the tweeters? If so, is 1octave below FS good or should it be closer to FS?
Great explanations. I'm still waffling on whether or not to try out a Helix V12 in a 2016 740i. If it's not enough it's a big waste of $ to chuck and switch to DSP / A/B.
@@pssound9749 I was thinking a small enclosure sub on a monoblock (processed through the V12) at the front of the passenger foot well to fill out the lower octaves a bit as the trunk is sealed and I'm not going to drive around with the rear armrest down just to get base. Do you have a driver recommendation for that. Or, do you think the right underseat driver can cover "enough"?
Another great video, wish you could show us more tuning. Do you measure from one position at drivers seat? Also show us time alignment and level matching.👍🏻
I would like to get answers for many questions too, but sadly it’s not as simple. Anything more than what’s already been shared in all the tuning videos on RU-vid is gonna be part of a training program for those who really want to take their caraudio skills to another level.
I would be happy to know how you measure with the microphone. Do you move the micro slowly from ear to ear? What micro equipment do you use? How do you work with the delay? Do you use time accoustic measurement in REW?
I would like to get answers for many questions too, but sadly it’s not as simple. Anything more than what’s already been shared in all the tuning videos on RU-vid is gonna be part of a training program for those who really want to take their caraudio skills to another level.
You mentioned feeling the kick from the mid bass, its weird that some cars you can feel it and others you can't. I've seen cars with almost identical responses from 20 to 20k and both felt so different. What cause that?
Any car can measure the same with great amount of tuning and EQ work, but as you say they sound different. 1. Midbass drivers are in optimal locations and application for the driver’s T/S specs. 2. Transient response of speakers 3. Car size & rigidity These things are all variables and difficult to tell the formula.
What would you recommend for me to do to get a higher response out of my sub? The measurements are very narrow it seems to only play between 40 and 60hz it is a very high peak it looks like a bell curve. It's in a custom box built to spec tuned to 33hz. I cannot get a good blend with my midbass with such narrow bandwidth. Do you think going sealed will help? The sub is 12" in a 2ish cubic foot box. I'd like to get a response up to 80hz if possible for midbass blending.
I think you're already thinking on the right track. A new box will likely go a long way. Personally I've always preferred sealed vs ported. Also... (1) check your crossovers and make sure you don't have two turned on by accident or something like that. (2) move the mic around and take some more measurements to see if it's just a positioning issue. If moving the mic changes your measurements, return it to listening position and move your subs (if able).
Easiest way to test it quickly is just block reflexport airtight. Then you can check if output changed to hoped direction. But some subs won't work in sealed enclosure. So test carefully, you might find your sub excursion limits even in low listening levels.
@@ilkkak3065 I actually tried that already and the response changed but in the wrong direction. It wasn't exactly air tight I just stuffed the ports with towels real quick to see if anything happens. I'll try a more air tight seal and measure again. The sub I run can be ran ported or sealed according to manufacturer specs. It's a low end FI audio the xv3
You may want to sign up for Patreon and check the weekly topic where we talk about good sub bass in a car. It’s more complex than just ported/sealed. Plenty to learn there.
Hi Peter, how does this sub works in sealed for metal / rock? I have for a long time Phase evolution Aliante 12 and I am considering some change. Or what would you use as a sub in small car for metal / rock mainly? Thanks
I would really appreciate a tutorial about measurement technique. Averaged static measurements or moving microphone? With driver in position or without? Please share some info! 🤩
Peter, the first thing you say in the Patreon video you referred to is “I cannot reveal my measuring technique”. I find this very disappointing when you ask me to join your Patreon community to find out. If you do not want to share this info, please do not trick people to be your Patreon.
@@leoeskelinen1867 I didn’t say everything would be shared on Patreon, but at least quite many things are cleared up in that video, your questions too, let alone all the other videos in the Tuning playlist that i’ve shared in the last years. Show me one more professional in the trade who shares more information for free, i want to follow that person too! 👍 If you see no benefit in the content on Patreon that now you got access to going back more than a year, then feel free to sign out.
@@pssound9749 do from those two You will chose c30 ? Im looking for something to spare with my z studio 100f midrange and 20 cm gorlich wf What do You think about this ? Mss-1 with those stuff