Cheap Tricks To Increase Horsepower - HorsePower S12, E9 

was going to post the same thing

Thanks for the info bro I didn’t know that

EXCELLENT point, that also applies to folks that plan on adding a turbo or a supercharger to an engine that was designed to be N/A...when in doubt check out that ring gap! Safe standards are a gap that is about .0065 per inch of bore diameter, which should keep 'em from kissing, and for the 'first-time DIYer's'... gap the compression rings only kids. Have FUN!

Most of those "kids" wouldn't know how to install the kit itself let alone understand the principals of combustion. I was 29 when I first ran Nitrous and I got hooked harder than sticky mickys on a 100 degree day.

It’s true though. That would be the same if I told ppl I had “Zex”.

he block 4 of the runners should have blocked 7 of them

cause everyone was too busy blowing ford for their new mod motors.. nobody had a clue what was in store with the ls engine.

Bill Chase They are great reliable engines, just not very efficient

@@trizkial7592 hahahahaha ok

It almost always is if you pay attention

Loose

And don't forget to port the heads to match the intake and exhaust manifolds. He only did a quarter of the work

@@robertsmith470 What's worse if the heads have a smaller opening then the gaskets he only made an obstruction and made flow worse.

Dykem smells better tho

You're correct my friend always used a permanent marker on his manifold port matching

Agreed

Its not

Yea, I noticed that...

I actually had my best cheap improvement with a 4hole to squarebore adapter flipped upside down on an edelbrock performer intake and 650carb. I'm not shitting you... looking at the part vs how it's said to be installed.. go with what looks right...😏

Errrybodeh runnin salad bowls now.

Can you elaborate on that, I have not seen most of them, did it make less power?

@@dakotastimeout2827 Cold air intakes, aka a sealed box with a pipe in the grill makes more power compared to those style of air filters. The round ones without an air inlet pipe are sucking in the hot engine bay air killing power. Even the round style ones that have the inlet makes a little more power compared to the non inlet versions.

Great point- Certainly don't need that charge 'puddling' in the manifold when intake velocities are low!

@@btchhopperou812 fuel puddling in the intake???? WOW where'd that come from😂🤣😂🤣😂

@@Binderbird4X4Firebird pretty sure it was on a guys FZ600... back in the early 90's. He spent a LONG time porting, then polishing the intakes to an almost mirror finish LOL... Ran like shit until he'd get it revved up pretty good, ran ok high in the rpm range. I recall a few guys talking about it in the same building the shop where I worked at the time was. I also recall my boss at the time saying "you can't do that to a 4-stroke, maybe can get away with it on certain 2-strokes... I did make the comment somewhat in jest, although I do believe there is a degree of truth to the statement. LOL BTW, is or was at some point that Firebird a resident of Florida? I swear I've seen one around here a good while back...

I thought the peaks and valleys in the boundary layer level is what disrupted airflow and such and that you should smooth it down. Do I need to worry about fuel falling out of suspension with port fuel injection ?

@@trizkial7592 I should have used a different term, but in airflow tests, a smooth intake port disrupts the rate of airflow, and heavier gas molecules can fall out of suspension in the air (ie, separate from the oxygen) and lead to poor burn rates inside the combustion chamber. This is mostly true for carburator engines, which don't always atomize as well as fuel injection. Tho if the injection is happening at a throttle body or far up the intake port, there's a chance there still may be separation at lower RPMs...every time the intake valve closes, the airflow has to go someplace. It tends to reverse and run back to the common plenum and run to another open valve someplace in the engine. naturally, air flow benches rate air flow in one direction. If you're running individual throttle bodies, then there is no common plenum to worry about. If your injectors are cleaned (not from snake oil in a bottle, but actually removed and sonic cleaned) and balanced to flow equal amounts to each other, and you don't let them get dirty over time and lose their ability to atomize, then fuel separation in the port may never be an issue. If you have a port injection system that's spraying fuel right at the valve, there's no time/room for separation. Otherwise, my personal opinion is if you're running pump gas, its quality may differ over time (transitioning to summer blends, etc) and a polished intake port that runs well on an air flow tester and after engine break in, may cause fuel separation a few years of use and wear 'n' tear later. Will there be a horsepower change you feel? Maybe or maybe not--it could be a gradual change and only noticed by keeping strict records of performance. speed.academy/10-myths-of-cylinder-head-porting/

Albert Gaspar Okay that makes sense. For my application I have port I injection. I wasn’t talking about mirror polishing it but just going over it with about maybe 120 grit or so. I’m more focused on blending the short turn radius and such I’m not gonna remove hardly any material. My intake ports are pretty good for a stock engine really. The exhaust side is terrible though I’m not sure what to do there

Certain engine designs are known for exhaust ports that suck (pun intended). Fords from the 1960's had shock towers that intruded into the engine compartment, and then there was the Thermactor bump for emissions. Generally speaking, the exhaust doesn't have to worry about fuel suspension, so there, you don't have to worry as much about port surface causing the exhaust to separate its noxious pollutants. The gas is hot, its expanding, it wants to move. Keeping it hot as it goes down the exhaust system helps it move (ie, ceramic coat the headers, or use a wrap, then use the right size piping, an X or H crossover, few bends, free flowing mufflers, etc that not just fail to restrict, but also direct the hot air in a smooth path). A camshaft that keeps the exhaust valve open longer than the intake (usually called a "split duration cam") can help. But what really helps is a good set of headers. They'll move the exhaust so fast, the next time the exhaust valve opens for the next 4 cycle function, there's a low pressure inside the primary tubes of the exhaust, which draws out what is inside the cylinder--helping a bad port that doesn't flow well. the lower the pressure inside an intake or exhaust port, the faster atmosphere flows in it to equalize pressure. Do a search for "David Vizard header design". You'll see a lot of theory, he was perhaps the best. But you can judge for yourself, here's just two: www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/exhaust/designing-an-exhaust-that-pumps-up-the-power/ www.superchevy.com/how-to/exhaust/0505phr-exh/ The interesting theory is, if you do a great job designing a header that scavenges the cylinder of exhaust, what you'll get is a "vacuum" on the cylinder by that exhaust system when the exhaust valve opens, and when the cam has its overlap period (when the intake and exhaust valves are open and overlap), the "vacuum" will draw more intake in, helping the intake port flow more air into the cylinder. to take this to a further level (or more confusing :) ), you can play with angle cuts on the valves. You've probably heard of the "three angle valve job". Its done to the valve face and valve seat. Get the angles right, and the port flows better at low lift. This helps because when the valve events overlap, its when they are at low lift. So, get the low lift flow spot on, and you get a better flow at cam overlap. Add in a great scavaging header design...and you almost have a boost-like effect going on in the head. instead of a turbo or supercharger pushing air in, the exhaust is "Sucking" it in and there's more air/fuel mix to burn when the intake valves close (tho there may be some in the header that backfires if the header is hot enough). or so goes the theory :)

Albert Gaspar Oh okay awesome! I actually read David vizards porting book!!! I loved it. I wish he had more books that weren’t just on building small block chevys. Unfortunately I’n my application a 2003 Seville STS with the 4.6 northstar their is no aftermarket exhaust headers. So I’m limited to using the stock manifolds and making my own dual design into an x or h pipe. I was thinking about seeing if I can take the heads to get a 5 angle valve job or whatever they call it because the seats according to David are one of the most important if not THE most important factor in flow especially at lower lifts. I’m not looking to turn it into a race car but I just want to give it some more power while I’m rebuilding the engine haha. No aftermarket cams either lol

Yeah that was odd.

I keep seeing this, but I think they were referring to the engine mechanicals & intake stuff. A lot of people don't consider headers & exhaust as straying from basic stock.

@@wymple09 yea people who don’t work on their cars or ever mod that consider exhaust a engine mod 😂

I know right.funny

But you got entertainment, like you do on movies

"And these plug wire separators won't break the budget at only $139." 😆

Look they have to do advertisements to keep it free, I hate it to, but trust me these guys cringe to

What's fake about it? I'm not saying you're wrong. I just don't know that much about engines

Yep

Thank you. He seems to think that an explosive atmosphere is normal...

true about air I don't about nitrous. we test air for confined space and hot work. it's usually 21.5 ish.

Every change no matter how small adds up when hundreds of second can win or lose a race. My secret .5 second adder is SFR 100. Look it up

you want to polish down the length of the rod, and it will shed a little bit of oil, but there's coatings that do more. The question is where will it splash and was it designed to do that. Where the C'rod is picking up the most oil is at BDC, when it dips into the oil, and a windage tray can do the same thing for the entire reciprocating assembly. Also, if you remove sharp edges and burrs from the c'rods, you reduce locations for stress, and the C'rods get a ton of stress when they come to a complete stop at TDC and BDC.

You still owe me a 10 second car

Yup. Always kills me when people say nitrous is cheap. It's only cheap if you don't use it. Start filling that bottle regularly and you might as well buy a blower. Also, a blower doesn't run out in the middle of a run. And a blower works for more than just drag racing. Can you imagine running a road course or autocross and having to constantly fiddle with the nitrous to turn it on and off as needed?

Definitely depends on the jet size, how long you run it, how many times you go to the track and so on. If on the streets, you’re an idiot. But if I use it 1-2 times at the track (2 NA runs and 2 nitrous runs if not busy), I can get 4-5 track visits on a bottle for me and I probably go 3-4 times a year. So $8000 SC drop and that’s me installing it and getting dyno tuned or $1200-1500 for a wet kit with blanket, blow off, remote bottle opener, purge kit, gauge, colder plugs and a dyno tune. If you have the money and go to the track a lot or need a little extra punch on the highway, definitely FI. Don’t have that much and want the power gain at a flip of a switch at times...nitrous. Most ppl I know kill a bottle trying to show off purging it. Be smart and it’ll last.

And aluminum heads

Agreed!!

BUT,,,, you shorten the life of the engine and cause "rattle"

@@Binderbird4X4Firebird if you watch the video, neither are true. of course, if you're doing a race engine, you're taking it apart often to check on things. and, what's the life of a piston really in a performance engine? The more power per cubic inch you get, the harder you're running the engine, so is 100,000 miles a good limit? 200,000? you may get bored with the hp and add on a blower or change to more displacement before you find the limit of the piston.

Stroke it

350 heads are probably costing you power, less compression cuz of bigger chambers they say. Could be wrong but everyone seems to say 350 heads on a 305 is a bad idea, but 305 heads on a 350 boosts compression.

Thats what I tell my girlfriend all the time

Notice how he said racing application, in people would probably be going for more than a 100 shot

There are many other brands besides nos.

until you realize it costs like $100 to get one 10LB bottle refilled and it doesn't really last that long the price adds up pretty quickly. Turbo's and blowers have a higher upfront cost but end up being cheaper in the long term.

@@GnarshredProductions a $100 to get your bottle filled... Buddy you've been getting ripped off. They usually charge $50-70 to fill my 10lbs bottle.

@@GnarshredProductions lol I can tell u never ran nitrous it’s like 40$ at most to fill at 10lb bottle

you me and a few others agree....

If the heads and intake are match ported, or as is often the case anymore the aftermarket heads were already gasket matched, you'll make more power, and how much by itself depends on the motor around it. What you are guaranteed to get, though, is a way nicer throttle response. When you're talking drag racing, that's not that important, as you'll pretty much just open the throttles once, and before you ever get moving. However, on the street or on a road course, tip in matters a whole lot more.

No !

lol.....awesome catch///

craigslist

This is also like 10 or 15 yrs old

Yeah he said they picked it up used.

I’m rebuilding my 5.7 into a forged 6.4 stroker, I absolutely asked for ring gap to run boost!

@@bri-manhunter2654 I build my own engines personally. build an eJ255 from a 250hp motor to a 410hp wheel motor. 20LBS of boost. the car was a rocketship at 2500lbs

What if you’re going with 100 shot or less? Are gapped rings still a must ? Asking for a friend

I paid for the heads whole intake runner, and I'm gonna use the whole intake runner.

Depends on the shop and what you want to do, at my shop for a 0.030 over piston line hone decking rebuild heads and some other stuff it's 2,000 plus parts

Without parts on my 6.4 Hemi stroker the rebuild is costing around 2k. Also, those 4 valve motor parts are expensive.

Not much......... all the power gains are in the plenum just under the carb pad and they didn’t even touch it. He should have stopped at 40 grit finishing the runners also. You want it rough for atomization not baby ass smooth.

Boost... Plenty of 700rwhp 2v running in the streets...

Easy, trick flow heads, cams, and intake manifold with long tubes. Big gains from this setup, also save up for boost.

It takes a lot to make big power out of those 2v I use to have own I got like 320-350 hp and it took a decent bit

Hard to miss the 2010 copyright at the end.

I found that annoying as well.

it's a breather to release crankcase pressure

all newer vehicles use a pcv valve and run a vacuum line somewhere before the throttle body for emissions. And that area on the valve cover where you saw the filter is where the pcv valve would be instead of the small breather filter. they both release crankcase gases and pressure