Tip for you that I use. When drilling into the section place a length of wooden dowel rod up inside. It helps support the section and will stop you drilling through the other side if you are a bit heavy handed.
Thanks for the tips on how to do the wraps , I bought the repair kit off ebay and did 7 kits with loads to spare , so it's a really cheap way to do them , and it was also really easy to do , would recommend anybody to have a go , cheers.
Did 4 over the weekend a bit of a pain in the rear with the carbon ends always coming loose but got there in the end. I only had a small bit of the clear tape in the kit I bought - ran out quickly so the last kit I had to use electrical tape backwards - worked fine. Once the resin had gone off and I removed the tape it needed a light wet n dry sanding to smooth a few rough ridges. Keyed the whole repair and gave a light coat of resin to smooth it all out - end result nice lovely smooth and glossy finish.
Hi john I us autotek lacquer from the car when youve flated them off with different grades of sand paper and wet &dry it will look dull till you lacquer them you will get a nice smooth finish john
Good stuff. You inspired me to get some carbon fibre and resin and a few MAP side pullers to have a go now. I can't believe how awful that carbon fibre is to work with. You cut it nicely then the slightest sideways movement pops the edge strands out then it gets worse from there!
Went really well all kits were a doddle to do, fitted vespe side pullers and caught carp and barbel to 5 pounds last weekend. Looking back I don’t know how I used to only fish solids with no puller!
I use a piece of hose pipe, inside the pole section. Then when you drill or use a mounted point, you can not go through to the other wall of the pole section
I am lazy and just slide a piece of an old pole down the top kit to the place I need it. Glue it.You now have as really strong section to drill into. Yes a bit sticks up but a bit of masking tape over it does the trick. It works honest.!
Why did you decide to omit the hair dryer heat shrink process on the heat shrink tape that consolidates the resin & fibres into 1? If you miss this, you will be left with an uncompressed, softer, weaker, rougher finish with loose fibres.
Tape provided with the kit I use, does not shrink when heated. You have to apply quite a bit of pressure when wrapping, my finish has always been good😊. You can get kits with shrink tape and use a heat gun if you wish👍.
@@AverageAngler Maybe you have forgot your own video. At 27-29 mins you criticise your own finish and start sanding the rough bits/steps. I would recommend using the heat shrink tape. You can only put so much pressure on with the tape unless its shrink tape because your tape will have no elasticity to produce tension. You could go over the clear tape with stretched insulation tape afterwards to provide some of the missing compression. Your windings are far too spread out too. If you look at the spirals on a professional pole, they are only 3mm apart. This is because the tape is 90% overlapped with only a 3mm offset from the last wrap. If you did this you'd get a higher pressure and better finish. It's like 10 elastic bands round your fingers will crush them more than 1 elastic band. Please don't take this as criticism - it's positive advise and we're all here to learn. You can also reduce the fraying - cut the length parallel to the mesh and you'd have fewer stray ends to combat. Also, keep the cloth in a long length and rotate the pole until you have a double wrap, then cut it to length. This way you can keep the tension on the cloth without accidently pulling off the last strands. I showed the composite dept at my work what I wanted done to my poles - the above is what they said - it's good positive advice!
Absolutely fantastic I’ve ordered everything and I’m already nervous about doing my first one and I’ve got 10 to do. Quick question would you consider super glueing the MAP puller in or are you happy as it is. Thank you so much for doing this video it’s a massive help 🎣👌
It's easy as long as you are organised, 👍😊, I suspect price of bushes gone up since I made this, been a couple.of years ago now!......Thanks for watching
Great video! I am considering doing this to my topkits. I also found this on the internet, not sure if it will be the same in strength as the carbon wrap. = Vespe stripper side puller + wrap - DRILL 6.0MM
@@AverageAngler Thank you very much, I will give the Vespe a try. If it doesn't work out I will do the carbon wrap. :) I have another question, I see that you mainly fish with the feeder. Do you have experience with Preston poles?
Great video. Is there anything you'd do different if you did it again? Do you think it would be possible to 'mask' either side of the wrap maybe with the clear tape 1st to get a neat edge with less resin overspill? It appears that any other type of tape may not come off so cleanly?
Hi John just watched this again and have decided to have a go myself have ordered the kit all mine at the moment are end pullers which are fine but these look to be neat It's the drilling I'm not confident with but will take my time. How far up the section do have the pullers to be around 10 - 12 inches would that be about right? do you rate the map pullers? Over the Preston is there any advantage? Great vid though tight lines👍🎣
I have had a few of the map pullers pop out, so a little glue is a good idea. The preston rollers need a bigger hole, but you do get a roller with their one. As for location, think about where you will hold the kit when playing fish. You want the puller to be close to the hand on the pole, so you can grab the elastic easily. Also if you have to wrap to far up the section you will lose elastic length, which is another consideration. I've had no serious issues with mine and its been over 6 months since I did them, hope it all works out for you👍
@@AverageAngler thanks for your reply John is there much difference in having the roller one to the map do they work the same! It certainly is a saving doing it yourself than getting it done professionally thanks again for the help I may contact you if I get stuck doing them 🤣 keep the great vids coming 👍
@@paulsomersetwolf5970 I have a kit with a preston roller in that I bought second hand, I don't personally notice any real difference. Other people do prefer the preston ones, I suppose it's all personal preference. I havnt seen Anything I would call a real advantage go with the map rollers they are a good price 👍
On eBay & other sites, they sell carbon tubes in 300mm lengths. What do you think about sliding a 50mm sleeve down the pole and gluing into place? I note that there's another video where vespe supply a 'pulla' sleeve that looks nothing more that 20mm plastic conduit that you can buy at wickes at £1.30 for 2m.
I wouldn't be doing anything like that, the plastic tube or carbon would need to match the taper of the top kit I should think? The carbon wrap is the lightest way to do it and will definitely work if done properly. You wouldn't want to snap your top kit, would be a false economy.
@@AverageAngler Good discussion... to make it clear - I'm not arguing... just thinking aloud with respect to the title "CHEAPEST WAY TO GET SIDE PULLERS"... I have no doubt that a professional carbon wrap is the cleanest way to go. It's just a question of whether quicker cheaper alternatives work just as well with no degradation of function and look much more tidy. People have 'sleeve' repaired sections for years with great success and 'whipped' over it. Even the top of multi-tip feeder rods simply have 2" piece of of carbon reversed and glued in to take the tips. Every joint on a rod/pole is a 'sleeve' that takes a hammering and they're not even glued! Vespe have sold out of 5 million plastic 'plastic conduit style' kits with no issues and I know many people that have slid a piece of carbon sleeve over to fit a puller with no issues. With respect to you taper concern (both carbon & plastic tube), over a 40mm sleeve length, my vernier caliper does indeed a indicate a difference of circa 0.1mm due to the taper and it was also a concern of mine. However, last week I put a sleeve on an scrap #2 pole section, put a dab of superglue on the 0.1mm 'open/gap end' and the glue disappeared and filled the gap with capillary action - looks amazingly neat where the glue created a radius between the pole and sleeve. The glue went in just like watching a soldered pipe fitting. I fitted a puller bung and fed a bike brake cable with a 'pip' at the end through the pole section. I then held the section vertically above my 18kg bike and lifted it with no issues. This is a unrealistic equivalent to lifting a 40lb carp - so it passed my test! Note that the conduit is the tough stuff that they use to protect vulnerable external mains electrical cables. You could stamp on it (unlike a pole)! If you said that it weighed 1g more or is 1mm bulkier, I'd not argue with you - although it felt better to grip in the hand. Using some poundland superglue and a piece of conduit and a pipe cutter that I already have, I think that I could fit around twenty in one hour with a total of £2.30 worth of materials. Having read the details, what do you think now?
Why don't you speak to the composite materials experts where you work, see what they think of your idea? I'm not a carbon fibre expert just a fisherman😊.
It's best to put them where they would sit nicely for you to strip whilst playing a fish. So hold the top kit like you would when playing a fish and see where your hand could easily grab the elastic🙂👍
Hi mate I'm about to do a margin pole, I've bought the repair kit, pullers etc just wondered what width of wrap you used, is there any recommendation for the wrap size?, Also the measure from the end to the third section? Thanks
About 4inch wide would be more than enough. Best thing regarding distance from end of the kit, just think where you would want it when you are playing the fish.
Hi john just in the middle of doing my side pullers I've checked them after 2+hours and they are tacky but can't get the wrap to stick would it be I haven't put enough of the formula on I only put it on thin or do I need to wait longer getting worried now?
@@AverageAngler It get tacky but the wrap won't hold don't know what to do now with the sections will i have to rub it all down again you made it look so easy?
@@paulsomersetwolf5970 it should hold, it won't be a mega strong hold just enough so it clings to the section. Are you doing it in the house not in a cold shed or garage.
@@AverageAngler in my garage but let them dry in the house it was tacky but left it for 4 hours but watching yours when laying the sheet on the part it just stuck but when I started to go around the section it just wouldn't stay it flicked up where I started so I gave in will I have to sand them down again to restart theres not loads on which may have been why it didn't work?
Sounds like you were nearly there, sometimes it doesn't stick so well, but you can stop the end curling up by wetting it with the resin on the brush. I tend to just start it on the tacky stuff and kind of brush it on with a wet brush(wet with resin). I would rub it down a little before retrying don't go mad though.
