Getting the baler put up for winter so it’s ready in the spring. That means checking and tightening chains, and then I show how to check the needle timing in the second half of the video.
Thank you for doing this, the timing is perfect. I have a NH 273 that has a very similar knotter chain setup, and it has INCHES of play on all chains. Replacing them in on my list of things to do. A few springs for the fingers and a hay dog as well as a bearing for the feeder. Seeing the actual timing being done will go a long way to helping me. On my old baler it has lines gouged in the metal instead of dots, but in the same location. Question on the cam that is next in line to the right of the clutch, does it have a bearing it rides on? On mine it looks like a roller but it is no rotating and I can see wear, so wondering if that is something I should replace.
I am not sure which cam you are referring to. You could just remove some links from your chain to tighten it up. With the 3 acres you’re doing you’ll be lucky if you see 500 bales a year so your baler isn’t seeing a lot of action.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer The chain is pretty worn, and cheap to replace compared to the sprockets. Something I knew when buying it that they would be replaced. The cam I am referring to, I can see in your video looks just like the one on the 273. Its the first thing sticking up to the right of the support bracket next to the clutch. It looks like a roller rides on it, but I can't tell if the roller supposed to rotate. It might need to be replaced on mine as I see abnormal wear on the cam, compared to yours. I can't tell from the parts blow up what the roller part is.
@@acdii you can get the chain at TSC. Is a 2040 on mine and probably is on yours too. There are several clutches on a baler so not sure which clutch you are referring to.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I finally found the diagram, it is missing from my documents, but Messicks has it online, its the twine finger and lever, the cam follower appears to be seized on mine. Was just curious if yours rotates. Thanks for responding.
I don’t explicitly say that, but that’s why I then show how to actually check the needles. You should always go by where the needles are coming up relative to the plunger. That’s what’s most important. I’ve heard related claims that timing marks can be off though have not actually witnessed that myself. If your needles aren’t in time even though your timing marks are, then it tells me your needles probably weren’t completely home when the timing was set. If that clutch dog isn’t tight against the stop as I show, then it will make your timing marks appear to line up and then when you test the needles, they’re out. That’s because when you pull the needles all the way home via the yoke rod on the right side as I demonstrate, it makes the knotter clutch move a few more inches. At which point your marks would be no longer lined up, telling you your timing is in fact off. That felt confusing. So the bottom line is you have to pull that rod back first. Simply pulling the needles back by the yoke won’t do it.
How do you repair a baler with the needles stuck in the upright position in the bale chamber? Do you have to take apart the yoke and then re-time the baler? We have had this issue a few times in a row while trying to bale corn stalk bales. Using a NH 315.
Empty out the bale chute to get the stalks out and pull the needles back and time them. Be sure to pull the needle brake rod back to set them to home before checking time. Does it do this when you bale forage? I’m wondering if the stalks are making the knotter clutches slip and not returning the needles. I have not experienced this and would consult the troubleshooting section of your manual to start. Stalks really beats up a baler and is never something I would bale in mine.
Thanks for this. I just picked up my 311, and am working my way through the manual (although my manual seems a bit different than yours). This helps a lot. What do I see around 10:42 on the left side near the needle yoke that looks like electrical wiring?
The needle protection latch is a large metal latch that is directly connected to the needle yoke via some kind of rod or cable. When the needles are at home position that latch is recessed. When the needles are moving into the knotters they push the cable forward which causes the latch to pop out and intercept the travel of the plunger crank so the plunger doesn’t strike the needles if they were out of time. Hitting the latch will break the shearbolt on the flywheel. If the needles are in time the latch is popped out when the plunger crank is making a Revolution. The latch recesses just in time for the crank to pass without hitting it.
Yes there is a master link. Just a word of caution though, if it needs shortened it’s probably stretched. 10’ of chain is really cheap at TSC! Just buy two boxes and replace with new chain. It’s not much extra work than just shortening the original chain. When I made this video I really should have just replaced it, because I did end up replacing the chain.
@@TheScientistHayFarmer I never even dreamed TSC would have that chain. I thought for sure it’d be ordered at the local dealer and take months to arrive. You’re right then, I’ll likely replace before I stress over shortening. Thanks again
@@rodney5656 it's just regular 2040 (I think) roller chain. All the chains on your baler or most implements are nothing special and are common hardware. This: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tru-pitch-roller-chain-chain-size-2040-10-ft And you'll need a roller chain breaker like this too: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/speeco-roller-chain-breaker-s05050 Also be sure to pick up a pack of master links and offset links.
I can certainly see why you are having to take a link out of your chain. Not sure I have seen any one's chains so dry and rusty. Exactly what someone does not want if he wants to work all summer with no breakdowns. These chains are prime for not functioning properly. If you wonder what farmers do with their used motor oil, well combines have numerous chains to oil everywhere. Silage wagons need used motor oil everywhere. Balers need every cover taken off, every chain run and oiled. Your baler will break especially the knotters. The cows will love you.
Chains are lubed with chain oil after every run while they’re still warm. The chains aren’t dry but they could appear so in the video. I use JD or Lucas chain lube.
