This is a 2003 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 transmission removal. It’s the same as a _GMC Sierra 1500. This video will cover many of the early to mid 2000’s pickup Transmission removal Like and subscribe please
Well when you have a lift and all the tools you need at your disposal it’s not too hard. Now if you are at home with it on ramps laying on the ground it can be a pain in the ass
Unbelievable. This here is a true testament of a master craftsman. Reminds me of being in the shop with my dad, he didn't screw around either. You didn't get in his way... If you aren't making 80k plus then you're underpaid. I hope you own the shop. This here will take me 8 hours or more to do, even with your video, you did it in 30 mins. I can't get over how freaking efficient you are. My dad would have been impressed, and he rocked that flag hour like no one, with quality to boot. My hat is off to you, sir, and thank you for helping me and my kids to pull our trans!
Nice job. It's clear that this gentleman has done more than a few of these. There was only one thing I needed to see and that's what happens when you unbolt the transfer case, now I see that I can just muscle it out and rotate it sideways to clear the cross members behind it. The reason why I already know the rest is because I did "take the cab off". Mine is a 2002 Avalanche 1500 4x4 and it is pretty much identical in terms of power train. I bought a new frame because the old one rusted away, and I did a frame off restoration. I pulled the entire power train in one piece from the bare chassis and reinstalled it the same way from above before rolling it back under the body. I put a top end rebuild in the engine and I thought the trans was good, but I turned out to be wrong driving the truck a couple months after getting it back on the road. Now I have to pull the trans from underneath the hard way. One thing though, when I had the whole engine/trans assembly out and it was time to separate the bell housing from the engine, that SOB was literally fused to the engine with corrosion between the iron of the block and the aluminum of the bell housing. I had to do some fierce hammering with some fine wedge tools all the way around, and it took a long time to get it to even look like I was making a gap. I was afraid I was going to break the bell housing. A normal pry bar was not going to do it. I had to use tools with a knife edge and hammer the crap out of them to the point where the tools were ruined just to make a gap. I'm telling you, I've had a few transmissions out of cars and trucks, and I had never seen anything like this. That thing was literally fused with corrosion. There is no way I would have been able to separate it from under the truck, it was literally a job where you'd have to take the cab off. When I bolted it back together I slathered the mating surfaces with anti seize. I use anti seize by the tub. Anything that doesn't get locking compound gets anti seize. Also I've found that those GM quick connect fittings for the cooler lines go in and out real easy, IF you have them dead straight. If there is any angle at all they won't budge, and that goes for pushing them in as well as pulling out. If they won't budge then you have to flex the line a little and change your angle of force. And those black plastic rings that retain the Jesus clips are also important, they keep the clip from working out sideways. I know I guy working as a tech at a dealership, last year he showed me a complete rebuild he was doing on a later model 10 speed, and he told me the root cause of the breakdown was the cooler line working loose on the highway.
Cool video. Thanks for taking the time to help us out. Especially appreciated how you made the whole thing flow with all the description, and pointers. Loved the comedy as well, take the cab off!!!!
Doing this on the ground on my dead twins truck right now, don't have the privilege of all the tools. It's been sitting a year now and i just can't take the damn thing rotting into the ground so I'm doing her where she sits. Thanks for the informative video.
Very good video! Great camera work! Very helpful. You are awesome. I appreciate this video so much. My trans just dropped 3rd and 4th . I am furloughed til 7/21. I got more time than money.
My kinda guy 😎... Work, straight to the point, watch me do it. 4x4 transmission out in less than 40 minutes. Definitely not this dude's first rodeo. I'd drink a beer with him.
I need to pull mine to replace the rear. A mechanic told me if he drains the transmission fluid out to pull it he pretty much guarantees the transmissions will explode. Is this true?
I have a 04 Tahoe 4.8L and I've lost reverse and OD. I have a buddy who has the motor and trans out of a 99 Silverado 1500 4×4. Can I put that trans in my Tahoe without any issues with everything matching up correctly? Any advice on this is greatly appreciated!
I am signing up to be part of a GM Law suit over their Transmissions. My 2019 has had the 3X Flush Two weeks ago and is now back getting a new torque converter. Chevrolet/GM is aware of the problems, but keeps pushing these Transmissions out. Mary Bara needs her Corporate Million Dollar Bonus each year.
The way you turned the fly wheel was slick i always use socket on engin pully the way you went was slick never even thought of just turning it like that of corse you do this work all the time
This guy knows his stuff , just listening to him talking about the plug ins , bolt sizes , transmission lines etc and how he maneuvers around the bell housing . Great video. Mad respect to you . Cheers 🇨🇦
Some early 98-2000 models had torque converter bolts without the external hex and had to use a 10 mm Allen socket ...they were a mother f...er.. so tight and bolt heads had soft metal that would strip out when you tried to break one loose...I usually just air chiseled them off and put new ones in with the external hex.
The best things I’ve found to get those out are the same ones used to take the bolts out that hold the bell housing to the case. Snap on’s socket is the torx 50IP. It will go in perfect and won’t strip out as long as you have it in there flush.
Those two vent hoses with the breather tips that are bolted to the top of the bell housing. One is for the transmission and the other for the transfer case? Thank you
You should heat the PRNDL switch plugs before removal in order to avoid breaking the connectors. @ 31 minutes. Everything else in this video is straightforward wrenching but damn that last tip was worth it
Awesome been MecNec 38 yrs Farmer's My Name and never seen One Pulled So Fast But if ya Got the Tools ya Got it thks For Sharin lot of Great Points Ya Got my Vote I,m in Sub Ya Got this
You know you have “IT” when bolts fall in your pocket lol. It would have disappeared in to no man’s land for me, and cost me 2hrs to go to the hardware store and get one.
Was it possible to have removed the last transfer case support mount bolt by tapping it out using a drift pin punch lightly tapping on it? It looked like it was clear enough of the exhaust ? Hard to tell from the video but from the perspective of watching the video it looked like it could have been knocked out without removing the exhaust from the manifolds ? Maybe it would have wedged the bolt? I would have attempted that first. Excellent video.
the crossmember was more of a fight because the y pipe was an aftermarket replacement unit. looks like catco. Guarantee those bolts go back in facing the other way!
Hey buddy how are you question I take a every boat cuz I want to remove the engine but they can come out from the transmission I want to remove from the transmission by the they can move from the damage while you got to do I take it everything the Angels moving but he stay hook up with the transmission I take it the trip board with the transmission but the engine doesn't come out what they got to do thank you yes chevy Silverado 5.3
If you’re pulling the engine, all the bell housing bolts from the transmission have to come out and also the converter bolts. Sometimes these have been on so long you have to pry them apart. The transmission can be stuck on the dowel pins. I hope I’ve answered your question. If you have anymore questions let me know
I’m not sure what it is. It sucks. It comes from the factory that way. But a little heat and it will come out with a little wiggling. Just might have to heat both ends back up when going back together.
@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 do you typically replace the glue? Why did GM do that. Isn't that what clips are for? I'm gearing up to replace the rear main and oil pan gasket in my driveway. 2003 z71. Mechanical transfer case. I'm trying figure out the gasket order. Pan first or rear main seal/plate first? Also I believe the 4L60e is fine. 167k miles. Should I consider an input lip seal? Pump seal? I don't know yet if it's leaking.
Took me 3 hours. 🤣 The two biggest issues - the factory exhaust crossover tube has to be finagled just right to come out. And no room for the starter to come out (removing the engine oil dip stick tube helps).
I'd just like to tell you I've gotten great instructions from both your trans removal videos. Great job. I haven't seen any install videos yet. Excited to see them. Keep up the good job
If you’re trying to get by as cheap as possible you might be ok with just that and a new filter. If it has very many miles at all I will recommend a bushing kit. At the very least a pump bushing. Just inspect your valve body plate really good. Make sure there’s not a ball stuck in the plate. Any more questions let me know.
My macanic is charging me 1000-1200$ to remove and install a used transmission in my 05 chevy avalanche is that a good price he said it will take 9 hrs ... Thanks and great vid
Depends on where you are. I’m my area that’s high. But might not be for some. I’d put a used one in for 500. I used to do it for 200 when I first started
Is there supposed to be fluid between the trans extension housing and the transfer case like it was in the video? Trans fluid pours out when you break the transfer case loose. Is it normal to have some fluid there?
On the 4L60 there will be. There isn’t a real seal on the 4x4 4L60. The front desk on the transfer case is a double sided seal. It’s supposed to keep fluid in the transmission. And fluid in the transfer case. Sometimes go bad and you lose fluid in the transmission and the transfer case ends up over full.
@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 thanks for the reply! Had a shop replace some seals and they ended up cracking my extension housing and it’s leaking tranny fluid from the crack. I’ve got to pull my transfer case and replace it.
I’ve not pulled a lot of engines. I’ve done maybe 8-10. But I always pull the transmission just because I can do it pretty fast and it saves trouble getting the engine aligned going back in.
I asked before and i think he said somewhere in Kentucky, maybe Lexington. I still wanna take my 2006 Silverado there and drop off for a complete trans rebuild at some point, I'm in Illinois close to St. Louis.
Around 11:30 the camera person whispers something, I think it's Throttle Position Sensor. Great tip and something I wouldn't have thought of. Does not marking the yoke position cause driveshaft balance problems? Probably not one a 4x4 since it's used infrequently. Appreciate the video and like others the fact that it's 'real' and unedited.
Its actually the speed sensors that burn up these 4L60e's Plus the 3/4 clutch pack just burns up as a matter of course, lol These are good units, but definitely have their quirks.
My truck has gears only park makes. A whining noise when first started then goes away I’m just curious if its the trourq converter or the transmission itself
@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 @Lt’s Transmission How To thanks for the quick response! I am attempting to do this job today. Not having a vehicle lift is not fun! Could the throttle position sensor cause this: What happened on mine is I lost overdrive then soon after reverse. In park I can hear a faint whining noise with the engine running. Fluid looks good.
Throttle position sensor bring bad can burn up the transmission. That’s probably what happened to overdrive. Your reverse shell is probably striped out. That’s usually what kills reverse.
@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 well I have no idea how you got that 13mm nut off on the top of the bell housing so effortlessly lol I spent like 2 hours on that thing using a far as i can tell the same basic tools!! :/ I will test the tps for sure. Not really sure if I understand that, but i will take your word for it. One other question if I can. How much slop is acceptable in the tranf case? I thought it was u joints but there is definitely a little wiggle. If you give the truck a quick surge of gas it will make a slight clunk sound (at low speeds) Again, I thought this was ujoints, wondering if it's the tranf case now tho. Backstory (optional reading) this happened going 10mph. Someone (not me) decided to give it the gas hard. A popping/clunk noise and it was all down hill from there. Immediate random overdrive on hwy and 20 miles later no reverse. Anyways i am way too wordy, but if you are still reading, thank for the responses, video and you definitely gained a subscriber :)
You might’ve busted the rear planet set in the transmission. You can lose reverse with that too. That could cause the whining and clunking. And with the tps that makes differences in pressures and shift points. The readings from it goes to the computer and changed the pressures and all that jazz in the transmission.
